Revolver unloading using "one sharp slap" massad technique. Yeah.....dont do that..

[M1911]

What's your technique?

Mine is very idiosyncratic. This is just what I do. I’m not Jerry Miculek or even a Master level SSR shooter. I’m not saying my technique is better. I’m saying I prefer my technique. My technique is not suitable for snubbies. Nor is it suitable for twist to release speedloaders (like HKS) or speedstrips.

I don’t transfer the revolver to my support hand. Nor do I tilt the muzzle up. I have 4” k-frames with full length extractor rods, so this is not a technique that I would recommend for a snubbie. I use push to release speedloaders. This technique does not prevent the cylinder from rotating, so it won’t work with HKS speedloaders.

I open the cylinder with the fingers of my left hand and operate the ejector rod with my left index finger. A firm push of the rod ejects the empties forcefully enough that they usually hit my abdomen. I then lower the muzzle of the revolver about 45 degrees, grab the speedloader with my left hand, and reload the cylinder.

I don’t like shifting the gun from hand to hand. I prefer to maintain my master grip on the gun. I also don’t like putting my fingers through the frame of the gun, as is done during the Ayoob and FBI techniques. During extended practice sessions the forcing cone will get quite hot and you can burn your hand on the forcing cone by reaching through the frame.

I don’t like waving the muzzle all around (up to empty the cylinder then down to reload) as the traditional techniques call for. It takes time to lift the muzzle up from my feet to the target, so keeping it closer to horizontal feels faster to me. The push to release speedloaders eject the rounds forcefully into the cylinder so you don’t need the help of gravity.

In contrast, the HKS speedloaders aren’t spring loaded, so those would need the help of gravity. If you are using HKS speedloaders, then you need to secure the cylinder from spinning. This technique doesn’t secure the cylinder. Actually, if you are using HKS speedloaders, my main advice would be to stop doing that — they suck.

I suggest that you get (or make up) some dummy rounds and practice your reloads dry in your basement. Try different techniques and see which seems to work best for you. You are looking for speed and reliability. Dumping 6 rounds at your feet is not what you want to do.

My technique is very idiosyncratic. Very few people keep a revolver in their left hand while reloading. Most people won’t prefer my technique.

 

[M1911]

The LCR has a comfortable shock absorbing grip and the polymer fire control housing helps to absorb recoil as well. The 357 version has a little more heft as well. They are not at all bad to shoot. That said, I still prefer a heavier snub nose. That way after I empty the cylinder and miss every shot, I can throw it at the bad guy and do a little damage.

I’ve never shot one. I had a .38 SP101 and a 642. I sold both. I found the 642 particularly uncomfortable to shoot. The trigger guard would smack my trigger finger.

 

[Mountain]

I’ve never shot one. I had a .38 SP101 and a 642. I sold both. I found the 642 particularly uncomfortable to shoot. The trigger guard would smack my trigger finger.

I sold the LCR. I liked shooting it but could not hit the sides of a water tank if I were standing inside it.

 

[M1911]

I sold the LCR. I liked shooting it but could not hit the sides of a water tank if I were standing inside it.

Yeah, I suck with snubbies too. In contrast, I find the 4” k-frame is one of the most accurate handguns that I have.

 

[Mountain]

Yeah, I suck with snubbies too. In contrast, I find the 4” k-frame is one of the most accurate handguns that I have.

Both Mrs. Mountain and I have 6" 686's. Mine's 'vintage' and hers is a pre lock 7-shot. They are both ridiculously accurate.

 

[hennypenny]

Does anyone practice reloading without looking at the cylinder ?

Yes. Also loading magazines without looking.

 

[allen-1]

Mine is very idiosyncratic. This is just what I do. I’m not Jerry Miculek or even a Master level SSR shooter. I’m not saying my technique is better. I’m saying I prefer my technique. My technique is not suitable for snubbies. Nor is it suitable for twist to release speedloaders (like HKS) or speedstrips.

I don’t transfer the revolver to my support hand. Nor do I tilt the muzzle up. I have 4” k-frames with full length extractor rods, so this is not a technique that I would recommend for a snubbie. I use push to release speedloaders. This technique does not prevent the cylinder from rotating, so it won’t work with HKS speedloaders.

I open the cylinder with the fingers of my left hand and operate the ejector rod with my left index finger. A firm push of the rod ejects the empties forcefully enough that they usually hit my abdomen. I then lower the muzzle of the revolver about 45 degrees, grab the speedloader with my left hand, and reload the cylinder.

I don’t like shifting the gun from hand to hand. I prefer to maintain my master grip on the gun. I also don’t like putting my fingers through the frame of the gun, as is done during the Ayoob and FBI techniques. During extended practice sessions the forcing cone will get quite hot and you can burn your hand on the forcing cone by reaching through the frame.

I don’t like waving the muzzle all around (up to empty the cylinder then down to reload) as the traditional techniques call for. It takes time to lift the muzzle up from my feet to the target, so keeping it closer to horizontal feels faster to me. The push to release speedloaders eject the rounds forcefully into the cylinder so you don’t need the help of gravity.

In contrast, the HKS speedloaders aren’t spring loaded, so those would need the help of gravity. If you are using HKS speedloaders, then you need to secure the cylinder from spinning. This technique doesn’t secure the cylinder. Actually, if you are using HKS speedloaders, my main advice would be to stop doing that — they suck.

I suggest that you get (or make up) some dummy rounds and practice your reloads dry in your basement. Try different techniques and see which seems to work best for you. You are looking for speed and reliability. Dumping 6 rounds at your feet is not what you want to do.

My technique is very idiosyncratic. Very few people keep a revolver in their left hand while reloading. Most people won’t prefer my technique.

Interesting, thanks for taking the time to detail it out.

I found that I cannot load the cylinder with my left hand, (I'm right handed). So, cylinder goes out, fingers through frame to hold in place, ejection rod with thumb of left hand as muzzle is slightly elevated, moonclip in with right hand, cylinder closed with left hand as right hand is re-acquiring grip. IOW - fairly traditional.

I'm shooting a six inch GP100, .38/.357 stainless, and the cylinder does indeed get hot on extended runs. For Walls of Steel or similar layout, I wear a pair of mechanics gloves that I've cut the finger tips and some fingers off of.

 

[Love Machine]

I have a 2.5 686 and can still hit a barn with it.

 

[Dennis in MA]

Wait. You don't wear tactical fingerless gloves 24/7????

They come in many shades to match your outfit.

 

[M1911]

Interesting, thanks for taking the time to detail it out.

I found that I cannot load the cylinder with my left hand, (I'm right handed). So, cylinder goes out, fingers through frame to hold in place, ejection rod with thumb of left hand as muzzle is slightly elevated, moonclip in with right hand, cylinder closed with left hand as right hand is re-acquiring grip. IOW - fairly traditional.

Yeah, not many people load the speedloader or moon clips with the left hand. It took me a lot of dedicated practice to get there. As I said, my technique is quite idiosyncratic and most people won’t prefer it. If you watch Jerry Miculek, he does a fairly traditional revolver reload. So the traditional method can be done quickly.

 

[JDL]

I use the slap method all the time and have never had this happen. I am bot sure what ammo you are shooting, I know you said they were your reloads and you have never had a problem before. How often
has the brass been reloaded, could your brass be getting weak and starting to expand more?

 

[whacko]

I use the slap method all the time and have never had this happen. I am bot sure what ammo you are shooting, I know you said they were your reloads and you have never had a problem before. How often
has the brass been reloaded, could your brass be getting weak and starting to expand more?

I don't count number of times reloaded on range brass just my bullseye league loads. This was "range fodder" 44 mag I was using. Gun needs a cleaning as well which may have contributed to the shells sticking.

Lesson learned.

 

[JDL]

I don't count number of times reloaded on range brass just my bullseye league loads. This was "range fodder" 44 mag I was using. Gun needs a cleaning as well which may have contributed to the shells sticking.

Lesson learned.

I never considered cleaning. I though everyone cleans there guns after every use.

 

[allen-1]

I never considered cleaning. I though everyone cleans there guns after every use.

Revolvers and 22s - yeah mostly.

Semis? Nope

 

[grey]

Some S&W 29/629s have tighter chamber tolerances. My 8-3/8" Classic is super tight (or is it loose?) no matter the ammo or cleanliness. It loads no prob but ejecting usually takes multiple slaps, trying to be semi gentle so I don't bend anything. My older 5", 4" and 3"ers drop the casings with a light push with my left index finger

 

[whacko]

I never considered cleaning. I though everyone cleans there guns after every use.

Nes has had this discussion many many times. If you clean them after every use I bet you don't shoot much. I shoot 3 to 4 times a week.....imo if you actually shoot your fire arms you just don't have time to clean after every trip.

Milsurps and collector type stuff that I only shoot once a year yes I clean before storage. But the handful of guns I shoot multiple times a week.....why clean it if I'm gonna shoot it again tomorrow.

 

[EddieCoyle]

It may just need a cleaning.

That's probably all it is. I asked about the 44 Specials because if you shoot some of those first, then shoot the full length 44 Mags, the crud ring left inside the cylinder from the shorter cases can make extraction difficult.

I once shot a bunch of 45 Colt in my 460, then shot full-power 460s without cleaning it first. I had to knock the 460 cases out with a dowel.

 

[SS1]

Small, light 357s suck.

Yeah they do smart a little
But it suits the bill for a cheap go anywhere no matter what I'm doing beater when I don't want to take the 45
But I like the fact they will take anything from light 38 to +P+,and Rat Shot for the Rattlers that are about
Then 357 on top of that.

 

[M1911]

Yeah they do smart a little
But it suits the bill for a cheap go anywhere no matter what I'm doing beater when I don't want to take the 45
But I like the fact they will take anything from light 38 to +P+,and Rat Shot for the Rattlers that are about
Then 357 on top of that.

But 357 out of a short barrel gets you very little over 38 Spcl in terms of ballistics.

 

[whacko]

But 357 out of a short barrel gets you very little over 38 Spcl in terms of ballistics.

That's not true. Harrel did a whole video on it. Same snub revolver he got 400fps more velocity using 357 mag over 38 special both using 125 grain projos. In the words of Paul harrel...."that's ALOT more".


View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=27wDLjY5JSs&pp=ygUbcGF1bCBoYXJyZWxsIDM1NyBzbnViIG5vc2Ug

 

[Foudre]

That's not true. Harrel did a whole video on it. Same snub revolver he got 400fps more velocity using 357 mag over 38 special both using 125 grain projos. In the words of Paul harrel...."that's ALOT more".


View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=27wDLjY5JSs&pp=ygUbcGF1bCBoYXJyZWxsIDM1NyBzbnViIG5vc2Ug

The difference in recoil alone you feel from shooting a .38 sp vs a .357 magnum out of the same snubbie is enough to tell you there is a significant difference in muzzle energy. For example a .38 sp 158 grain bullet vs. a .357 magnum 158 grain.

There is also this which is a good resource: .38 Special and .357 Magnum Self-Defense Ammo Ballistics Test - LuckyGunner.com Labs

 

[meh]

The difference in recoil alone you feel from shooting a .38 sp vs a .357 magnum out of the same snubbie is enough to tell you there is a significant difference in muzzle energy.

The only problem is that once the bullet leaves the barrel, it has all the energy it's ever going to get, but the muzzle is a little rocket nozzle after it's gone. You do get more velocity. It's hard to be certain about these things, but I think you pay more for it in felt recoil than the velocity alone accounts for.

 

[whacko]

The only problem is that once the bullet leaves the barrel, it has all the energy it's ever going to get, but the muzzle is a little rocket nozzle after it's gone. You do get more velocity. It's hard to be certain about these things, but I think you pay more for it in felt recoil than the velocity alone accounts for.

Depends on if you lave little girly hands or not.

 

[Rob Boudrie]

Go to an action shooting revolver match and you’ll see a lot good reloads done with very different techniques.

But WWJMD?

 

[M1911]

Depends on if you lave little girly hands or not.

My hands have all the muscle and callouses that you would expect after 30 years of working with a mouse and keyboard.

 

[meh]

Depends on if you lave little girly hands or not.

 

[T-Unit]

The worst stuck case in a revolver problem I ever had was when I decided to run Wolf steel .45 ACP in my Redhawk with a moon clip. For those unaware, steel case is difficult to extract, now multiply that by 6 and they're all attached to a moon clip so you can't punch them out individually.

How I did not bend that ejector rod is a testament to how damn tough the Redhawk is.

I got the cases out and never attempted to shoot steel case with a moon clip in a revolver again.

 

[T-Unit]

Yeah, I suck with snubbies too. In contrast, I find the 4” k-frame is one of the most accurate handguns that I have.

Yeah, I'm also done with 2 inch snubs and am opting for 3 inch as my new minimum barrel length now.

 

[pdm]

When I got my 642, I ran some random 125gr FMJ I had around. That slapped enough for me to buy some new grips and search out better ammo for a snubbie. When I ran 148gr wadcutters, it was a lot more enjoyable to shoot. I don't care that it's not JHP or whatever, what I care is that I can make accurate hits. A hit to the face with a wadcutter is better than a JHP that misses. For the range, a speed strip or cheap HKS loader is fine. I'll have to try a spring loaded loader at some point.

 

[SS1]

Again. Not a lot of reason to carry a revolver these days

(And I did for a while so I’m not anti revolver)

Do they make a 357 in semi for pocket carry ?