Saiga-AK Lower Handguard retainer for Saiga conversion

dnepro-mike

dnepro-mike

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Second generation of Saiga-AK Lower Hand Guard Retainer for use with standard AK handguards or ANY handguards/rail systems that utilize standard AK retainer.

- Further improved design for most Saiga rifle conversions
- True drop-in part. NO FINAL FITTING REQUIRED!
- No need to remove gas/sight blocks!
- Modeled after ak74/100 series and CNC machined from solid steel stock.
- Hot Blue finish

To be used with barrel notch, just like an AK (YouTube video how-to), only difference is that lock lever replaced with either:
roll (spring) pin or sex bolt+screw (optionally available).

Will be 100% perfect fit for following Saiga rifle calibers. NO FITTING REQUIRED!
7.62 Saiga (IZ-132) = 7.62x39 Soviet
5.56/.223 Saiga IZ-114) = 5.56x45 NATO/.223 Rem
5.45 Saiga (IZ-240) = 5.45x39 Soviet
Will not work on other rifles (i.e. Vepr) or calibers i.e. 30-06, .308, 7.62x54R

Retainer's barrel opening is pre-fitted for above models, so you don't have to disturb the finish.
Optional mounting hardware available.

FREE SHIPPING.

WWW.SAIGA-AK.COM

03-13-2012:
Site was down for a few days but up and running now.

Working on the third-generation retainer now and few new products in the near future:
-foldable AN-94 style front sight block for thread-less muzzle break.
-thread-less removable AK-74 style muzzle break for ban-states/locales.

I can probably now take on .308 retainer if someone local can let me work off of his rifle, since I don't own saiga in this caliber

LHG02Gen.2_4.jpg

LHG02Gen.2_1.jpg

Saiga-AK_LHG_retainer_barrel notch_roll_pin.jpg
Saiga-AK_LHG_retainer_barrel notch_roll_pin_3.jpg
 
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I am very interested in how your paint will turn out. How did you color match it? I'm assuming you're using a shop press and drill press for this project?
 
flintoid said:
I am very interested in how your paint will turn out. How did you color match it? I'm assuming you're using a shop press and drill press for this project?
Click to expand...

i sprayed trigger plate (that i removed) and it was pretty close match. i'd say 85-90% under inspection with plenty of light, but now that i read some more 'online conversion resources' i'm considering stripping and refinishing, since quality of the factory finish degrades rapidly as I work.

nope, no drill, no press just rotary tool and hand drill so far.

did not really color match, just kind of went for it ;) per 'internet source' advice on type of paint
 
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Keep up the good work Mike. I'll be doing a 7.62 Saiga conversion after the new year myself. Post plenty of pics please.
 
The only time a drill press comes in handy for a basic Saiga conversion is when you're installing a bullet guide. All the other work can be done with a hand drill or Dremel. I never worried about the Tapco trigger rumors and bought all mine from Carolina Shooters Supply already modified for what ever Saiga I was working on. Greg at CSS has great service and you get your order in a few days, plus he has a bunch of Youtube videos out there with tips on reinstalling the bolt hold open, retainers for the pins, etc.


Mike... what are you going to use for a retainer for the axis pins? I've used the Tromix shepards crook, Tapco plate, and Krebs plate. I found the Tapco was the easiest to instal and the shepards crook the toughest. On some Saigas you'll need to remove some material from the bolt hold open lever depending on which you choose.

I'm guessing from the parts you listed that you're swapping out the gas block and front sight block. I got as far as driving the retaining pins out on my new Saiga 7.62 project but haven't had the time to see about pressing or pounding mine off. I do know they're pressed on and are solid! I tried the block of wood and hammer method and they won't budge. I've heard of people having to use heat and a press to get them off.[hmmm]

A basic Saiga conversion can be done in about an hour and a half. Its when you start wanting all true AK furniture like handguards, brakes, etc. that you start spending money and time.
 
SKS Ray said:
The only time a drill press comes in handy for a basic Saiga conversion is when you're installing a bullet guide. All the other work can be done with a hand drill or Dremel. I never worried about the Tapco trigger rumors and bought all mine from Carolina Shooters Supply already modified for what ever Saiga I was working on. Greg at CSS has great service and you get your order in a few days, plus he has a bunch of Youtube videos out there with tips on reinstalling the bolt hold open, retainers for the pins, etc.


Mike... what are you going to use for a retainer for the axis pins? I've used the Tromix shepards crook, Tapco plate, and Krebs plate. I found the Tapco was the easiest to instal and the shepards crook the toughest. On some Saigas you'll need to remove some material from the bolt hold open lever depending on which you choose.

I'm guessing from the parts you listed that you're swapping out the gas block and front sight block. I got as far as driving the retaining pins out on my new Saiga 7.62 project but haven't had the time to see about pressing or pounding mine off. I do know they're pressed on and are solid! I tried the block of wood and hammer method and they won't budge. I've heard of people having to use heat and a press to get them off.[hmmm]

A basic Saiga conversion can be done in about an hour and a half. Its when you start wanting all true AK furniture like handguards, brakes, etc. that you start spending money and time.
Click to expand...
from what i've heard and seen, saiga's gas/sight blocks are not design to come off unless with the barrel. you pretty much have to cut them off, not easy or pretty job i can tell you that. just go on youtube and watch those horror-show experimentalists. i'm keeping mine on and will try to work around it, mainly to escape extra work and minimize possible damage to the rifle.

bullet guide is the last item on my list.

as for retainer for trigger and hammer pivot pins, i was not going to use anything at all. they nicely snap into place and once under tension they are not going anywhere. if mister Kalashnikov didn't put it there it means i don't have to either. plus once scope mount is ON, pivot heads will be effectively 'capped' by it.

i'm currently slowly working my way into modifying lower handguard retainer to use with standard AK hand guards.
 
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dnepro-mike said:
from what i've heard and seen, saiga's gas/sight blocks are not design to come off unless with the barrel. you pretty much have to cut them off, not easy or pretty job i can tell you that. just go on youtube and watch those horror-show experimentalists. i'm keeping mine on and will try to work around it, mainly to escape extra work and minimize possible damage to the rifle.

bullet guide is the last item on my list.

as for retainer for trigger and hammer pivot pins, i was not going to use anything at all. they nicely snap into place and once under tension they are not going anywhere. if mister Kalashnikov didn't put it there it means i don't have to either. plus once scope mount is ON, pivot heads will be effectively 'capped' by it.

i'm currently slowly working my way into modifying lower handguard retainer to use with standard AK hand guards.
Click to expand...

Some blocks are dimple pressed in place, others are pinned and can be removed by driving out the pins, cranking them back and forth with pliers and tapped off with heavy hammers, or with the use of a press and some stock steel and brass. If they're pressed in place by dimples, they have to be cut off and new barrel notches need to be cut for retainer pins after the new blocks are pressed/pounded on. I see people replace the blocks all the time. Its not rocket science but not as easy as the basic conversion steps are, especially when it comes to having to notch the barrel for new pins.

You'll have to use something for a retainer for the axis pins or they'll back out during firing. Whether it be E clips, a wire, or a plate, you definitely need a retainer. Read some info on the Saiga 12 forum: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php...=171318&hl=axis pin&fromsearch=1&#entry171318
 
SKS Ray said:
Some blocks are dimple pressed in place, others are pinned and can be removed by driving out the pins, cranking them back and forth with pliers and tapped off with heavy hammers, or with the use of a press and some stock steel and brass. If they're pressed in place by dimples, they have to be cut off and new barrel notches need to be cut for retainer pins after the new blocks are pressed/pounded on. I see people replace the blocks all the time. Its not rocket science but not as easy as the basic conversion steps are, especially when it comes to having to notch the barrel for new pins.

You'll have to use something for a retainer for the axis pins or they'll back out during firing. Whether it be E clips, a wire, or a plate, you definitely need a retainer. Read some info on the Saiga 12 forum: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php...=171318&hl=axis pin&fromsearch=1&#entry171318
Click to expand...

mine are definitely pressed with the dimples. if it would be pins i wouldn't even worry about it.
i'll see what i can find for retainers, maybe will fashion something out of old paring knife blade.
worst case scenario i'd have to order one.
 
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dnepro-mike said:
mine are definitely pressed with the dimples. if it would be pins i wouldn't even worry about it.
i'll see what i can find for retainers, maybe will fashion something out of old paring knife blade.
worst case scenario i'd have to order one.
Click to expand...

AK builder has a great retaining pin for cheap. Easy to install, too. I believe its the chinese style retention shepherd's hook.
 
$35 *AK74 22mm muzzle break/compensator (chrome lined, zig-zag design)

It may be a typo but is it 24mm? Just verifying as Romanian AK74 brakes ARE 22mm and the Bulgys are 24mm and they are different FSBs. Presuming it is a 24mm Bulgy afaik the Romys did not have the zig zag design.
 
JD09 said:
$35 *AK74 22mm muzzle break/compensator (chrome lined, zig-zag design)

It may be a typo but is it 24mm? Just verifying as Romanian AK74 brakes ARE 22mm and the Bulgys are 24mm and they are different FSBs. Presuming it is a 24mm Bulgy afaik the Romys did not have the zig zag design.
Click to expand...

Here are the pics you tell me what i have. I was under impression that it is east german.
P1040377.jpg

P1040379.jpg
 
dnepro-mike said:
so what's your conclusion? which one is it?
Click to expand...

24mm

to give you piece of mind I just measured a Bulgy 74 MB I had lying around...same measurements given a few decimals



Edit: Bulgy E German and Soviet 74's all take a standard 24mm FSB and Mb. The Romanians had their own 22mm FSB and MB As you can see in the pic you can tell when you see it (longer thinner).

RomanianAK-74.jpg


Polish Tantal MB of course are different but easily recognized

http://tantal.kalashnikov.guns.ru/parts1.html

Bottom of the page last pic for a comparison pic of different designs
 
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I am no expert, but isnt the measurement you are taking of the MB the inside diameter? (the R in this example) 24mm should and would reference the (T) measurement


* Thread Diameter (T). Also called major diameter.
* Shank Diameter (S).
* Root Diameter (R). Also called minor diameter.


diameter-hex-bolt.gif



If your MB is E German I am 99.99% sure it is for 24mm fsb. It does not look romanian and as I mentioned I am fairly sure that Romy MB did not have zig zag cuts.
Also Romy MB are very hard to come by.

Where did you get it?
 
screw paint! hot bluing rules!!!

flintoid said:
let us know how it turns out!
Click to expand...

hot blue handguard retainer and trigger guard.
Retainer looks a bit plum (i put it in before solution reached target temp) but trigger guard looks pretty nice and black i'd say.

Rest of the rifle comes next. Just need to find free weekend and hope for good, warm weather, since i'm bluing outside on the deck.

DSCN0106s.JPG DSCN0102.JPG
 
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dnepro-mike said:
hot blue handguard retainer and trigger guard.
Retainer looks a bit plum (i put it in before solution reached target temp) but trigger guard looks pretty nice and black i'd say.

Rest of the rifle comes next. Just need to find free weekend and hope for good, warm weather, since i'm bluing outside on the deck.

View attachment 17300View attachment 17299
Click to expand...

Nice color!
 

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