Stripped Lower thoughts?

[timgreynolds]

I actually really like the Anderson LPK, Last 2 were a lot better firing than the PSA, PTAC, Stag and Spikes. Trig is a little sharp on edges but a wet stone cures this. Other than that or I got lucky but it was a very smooth pull and Break.

I don't have a lot of experience with the others, but the Anderson FCG didn't seem too bad.
It was gritty as all heck with a mushy break right outta the bag, but 15 minutes with a stone solved that it now seems better than just 'good enough.' The RRA single stage is lighter with less take-up, but not really any 'crisper' in my experience.

 

[akma]

I don't have a lot of experience with the others, but the Anderson FCG didn't seem too bad.
It was gritty as all heck with a mushy break right outta the bag, but 15 minutes with a stone solved that it now seems better than just 'good enough.' The RRA single stage is lighter with less take-up, but not really any 'crisper' in my experience.

I had the same issue with my Anderson trigger. I polished it up with my Dremel and put a JP spring kit in it. Now it's smooth and light.

 

[tshomos]

I have 2 Anderson lowers built, a CMMG built lower and a DPMS built lower. Other than the finish they all perform the same and used standard lpk.

 

[track65]

Just bought 2 Anderson lowers with closed trigger guard online for $100.00 and it was free shipping. Minuteman Armament did the transfer.
joeboboutfitters.com

 

[bgoum]

Just bought 2 Anderson lowers with closed trigger guard online for $100.00 and it was free shipping. Minuteman Armament did the transfer.
joeboboutfitters.com

Great price - Did minuteman have to send a copy of the FFL to them or do they already have it on file?

 

[Chet0729]

I actually really like the Anderson LPK, Last 2 were a lot better firing than the PSA, PTAC, Stag and Spikes. Trig is a little sharp on edges but a wet stone cures this. Other than that or I got lucky but it was a very smooth pull and Break.

I bought one with one of he group buys and the trigger was 30 LBS if it was an ounce. To their credit, Andersen sent me out a replacement that is OK.

 

[massBRS]

I have built a couple Anderson Lowers that work fine. Their parts kits leave a little to be desired. I would recommend something better, especially for the trigger group.

My one build with an Anderson LPK snapped the buffer retaining pin on the first time out. I've been all CMMG ever since

 

[track65]

Great price - Did minuteman have to send a copy of the FFL to them or do they already have it on file?

Yes he sent them one.

 

[Mountain]

I have 3 builds on Anderson lowers. All were great- no issues. One is for a .458 SOCOM upper and is AOK despite the abuse.

I'm going to recommend a Spikes LPK- nicest parts kit I have tried, as least for reasonable money.

 

[bgoum]

I have 3 builds on Anderson lowers. All were great- no issues. One is for a .458 SOCOM upper and is AOK despite the abuse.

I'm going to recommend a Spikes LPK- nicest parts kit I have tried, as least for reasonable money.

Just installed a spikes - very smooth install. Also did an RRA (single stage) - nice LPK as well. Have 2 complete lowers (Anderson and Spikes) now done - time to shop for the upper parts... decisions, decisions.

 

[Coyote33]

I wouldn't chose one over the other. A lower is a lower unless you're buying a nice billet with some design you specifically like.

I thought forged is stronger than billet. Aren't forged things made from billet (raw material)?

I would probably go Anderson. It is more or less the standard. About the best quality for the entry level prices.

Did not know this. Just know that they've gotten more popular lately.

I have 3 built Anderson lowers and 2 stripped in my safe. Shoot just the same as my Stag and Spikes. For $65 in some cases you cant go wrong.

Anderson lowers are now $35.

I have a couple, not from either of these manufacturers, that would beg to differ. Threads for buffer tube, detent pin holes, and buffer retaining pin hole all enough out of spec to require a little extra machining to get going. Bought just before the Sandyhook incident so by the time I went to build them no one had anything to replace them with. I was offered my money back but kept them as I couldn't replace them at the time. I use them as range beaters. They function fine, but the fit and finish is horrible. Had to try three buffer tubes before finding one that would work with one of them. And that was after retapping the threads.

Is it, or is it not "Mil-Spec"?

If it is to spec, then it should all be interchangeable.

I was going to ask this question, but noticed I already did. It is either in spec, or not in spec. Which is it? Or does Anderson not claim to be "mil-spec"?

 

[mikelawtown]

Not sure but never an issue with any Andersons yet.

 

[Rob Boudrie]

I would probably go Anderson. It is more or less the standard. About the best quality for the entry level prices.

I have read that Anderson lowers require a slightly shorter grip retaining screw than other brands.

 

[Coyote33]

I have read that Anderson lowers require a slightly shorter grip retaining screw than other brands.

Can always just hacksaw the screw shorter, or drill and tap through. Though others (above) have said no problems.

 

[Rob Boudrie]

This is the post about the grip screw length on Anderson lowers:

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2015/08/28/anderson-ar-15-lowers-no-longer-mil-spec/

Can always just hacksaw the screw shorter, or drill and tap through. Though others (above) have said no problems.

If you do that, thread a bold on the screw before hacksawing; then clamp th ebolt in a vice and remove the screw. This will clean up the buggered threads where you hacksawed, which can make starting the threading into the lower difficult. Or, just buy a 3/4" screw at Home Cheapo.

 

[7.62x39]

I have read that Anderson lowers require a slightly shorter grip retaining screw than other brands.

That would depend on the grip more than the receiver. Most grips on a Anderson receiver use the standard 1/4"-28 X 1" bolt. If shorter screw is required it is because of the PG you are using.

 

[Lsgun1]

Can always just hacksaw the screw shorter, or drill and tap through. Though others (above) have said no problems.

Rather spend $10 more and get a lower that I don't have to mod any of the hardware. Also Anderson has that weird finish on it that feels like chaulk

 

[ScottS]

Rather spend $10 more and get a lower that I don't have to mod any of the hardware. Also Anderson has that weird finish on it that feels like chaulk

Has Anderson changed their anodizing? The Type III hardcoat anodizing on my Anderson's is shiny smooth...almost satin. Far from that "chalky" finish on some anodizing.

 

[Lsgun1]

I don't know if they have different grades or not but the brand new freshly delivered one I saw 2-3 weeks ago was rough. They work don't get me wrong but for a couple bucks more I can get something more aesthetically pleasing to myself.

 

[ScottS]

I don't know if they have different grades or not but the brand new freshly delivered one I saw 2-3 weeks ago was rough. They work don't get me wrong but for a couple bucks more I can get something more aesthetically pleasing to myself.

Huh. I wonder if they changed it to speed production or something. (They seem to be selling butt-loads everywhere.) I hope not. Mine are satin-slick, almost shiny, almost like it's been Cerakote'd. I hate that overly-flat, "chalky" finish that seems to draw fingerprints.

 

[Wildweasel]

type 3 anodizing will be slick or chalky looking depending on what the finish on the lower was before it was anodized. when I anodize my lowers I build I media blast the lower before anodizing to get a mil spec looking finish. (I only do type 2 not as hard) if the lower is smooth before it goes in the acid then dye and sealing then it will come out with more of a "shine". it is all the same process.

mil spec should be satin looking before any lube is put on it. (almost chalky) if the lower looks like that hit it with clp etc and it will darken up and smooth out.

The Anderson I just picked up was done just like all the other lowers I did over the years (rock river, bushmaster, etc) and the hole for the pistol grip is drilled through into the fcg area so any length grip screw should work. (I just picked it up wednesday am.) so for 63 out the door price I am happy with it. It also fits nice and tight to my upper I purchased a year ago from another manufacture.

 

[mac1911]

It's not supposed to be that hard is it? I wanted a rock river arms but a little harder to find and was told I was only paying for the name. Maybe something to be said for paying for the name.
Am planing to pick up at least 2 lowers tomorrow and waiting on a spikes tactical to come in as well.

As the owner of a few rock river lowers and Anderson's. On its face they look and function the same BUT I don't know exactly what they do at RRA on their NM rifle but the upper to lower fit is very very snug only now after 5 years is there a hint of upper to lower movement.
That said ......all said and done just buying a lower for a build... Anderson's (4 ) have been fine. No issues , no walking pins , A2 grip with grip screw that came in the LPK have been no problem.

 

[Wildweasel]

Upper to lower fit is not as important as much as people seem to think. Is it nice if it is tight? yes but it really won't affect accuracy that comes from the upper.

If you are building a NM gun (I have) then preferably bring your upper receiver and a set of pins when you buy a lower and see if the dealer will let you test fit till you find one you like. (this is true of any lower)