Suppressors - Looking to purchase my first

edmorseiii said:
Heat and stress. Will Joe 6pack shoot out an inconel can? No. One of those cheap YHM can? Maybe.

Thats not what I want to hear right now. [laugh]
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Cheap YHM can?????? $900 isn't cheap!
2016: "YHM’s Phantom Ultra Light Tactical Suppressor is available now for $1,130."
 
Bt74 said:
How would a Titanium YHM with Inconel baffles wear out?
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My Surefire blast baffle is etched and starting to chip and it’s inconel. I run a three prong which is probably harder on a blast baffle than a brake. It’s what I use on my tranny M4 so it’s seen some hard use but probably only a few thousand rounds.
 
edmorseiii said:
JRT correct me if I'm wrong, but the new eform4 turn around is like 4 months, isn't it?
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Good to know. It’s fluid (like gender), but when I bought mine it was actually over 9 months (closer to 11, I think) for me to get my stamps.

Think I paid for my first one November 2020 and I wanna say I got it just in time for Halloween last year.
 
I have a few. In my opinion it should come down the mounting system, return to zero. with durability being a priority for AR cans. I mostly run dedicated 556 on my AR’s except for a SandmanS on one of my AR’s. most baffle type 556 cans are all within a few db of each other.

Sorry meant to add mine are all in Silencershop singleshot trusts. good or bad I don’t know yet. but it’s what I did.
 
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Avoid 556 can for AR15. they just create more back pressure and portpop. I use a few 556 cans and they’re great if you’re willing to run an AGB or other tuning strategies. For new suppressor owner just get a quality 30 cal and a rimfire suppressor. Those two will cover 90% of applications.
 
92G said:
For new suppressor owner just get a quality 30 cal and a rimfire suppressor. Those two will cover 90% of applications.
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I think this is the way to go. I used my 22 suppressors the most by far...basically, if I was shooting a 22, it was suppressed. They are near hollywood quiet, especially with a bolt gun and subsonic ammo. The next most used was my 30 cal on AR or my 30-30. It sucked and I didn't use it when it was direct-thread and super heavy, but after I got it recored it was much lighter and easier to install/remove with the brake mount so I used it a lot. The pistol can is unwieldy and i use it the least. You can't use a holster with the ones I have (thompson machine ISIS-2 9mm and AAC Ti-Rant 9mm), so they are basically range toys. You can leave the 22 or 30 cal suppressors installed and (especially with an SBR) it's pretty innocuous.

If you do wear out a suppressor you can have it recored without a new stamp and it usually just takes a few weeks. I did it to my 30 cal can and have considered it for my TM pistol can.
 
92G said:
Avoid 556 can for AR15. they just create more back pressure and portpop. I use a few 556 cans and they’re great if you’re willing to run an AGB or other tuning strategies. For new suppressor owner just get a quality 30 cal and a rimfire suppressor. Those two will cover 90% of applications.
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Also nice to have a .45 pistol can as well ! Awesome gong thumping energy downrange, and well below the transonic fps threshold , so super quiet.
 
92G said:
For new suppressor owner just get a quality 30 cal and a rimfire suppressor. Those two will cover 90% of applications.
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APFSDS said:
I think this is the way to go.
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This is how I started 9 years ago, AAC 762-SDN-6 and a Pilot2. I shoot my 22/45 with the 22 can FAR more then anything I own, fun and cheap. I have a lot of 556 and 300blk through the SDN-6, and it still does suppressor things but it's heavy as f*** compared to the modern cans on the market. That can lives on my MCX until I buy a lighter, shorter replacement for that gun.
 
Have any of you done a trust through the silencershop?
I looked briefly on their website and it looks like I’ll need to print out a form and get it notarized?
 
DarthRevan said:
I get that but I just was curious about how people did it more so than wondering why it needs to be.
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When I did my trust years ago, I just took the paperwork to my local bank, they have a notary on staff during business hours. My town hall does as well.

Every time you want to edit that trust it technically needs to be notarized. That is why I stopped bothering. If I die and $3-4k worth of suppressors are what my family is worried about I did it wrong.
 
DarthRevan said:
Have any of you done a trust through the silencershop?
I looked briefly on their website and it looks like I’ll need to print out a form and get it notarized?
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I recall using the fingerprint kiosk at Renaissance arms for the single shot trust. I do not recall needing to use a notary.
 
slap shot said:
I recall using the fingerprint kiosk at Renaissance arms for the single shot trust. I do not recall needing to use a notary.
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Here's a decent comparison.

www.thetruthaboutguns.com

Silencer Shop's Single Shot Trust Explained and Compared - The Truth About Guns

Buying an NFA item — a silencer, short barreled rifle/shotgun, machine gun, “any other weapon,” or destructive device — involves jumping through a series of .gov hoops, including paying a special tax and submitting a registration form. Perhaps the most complicated part for first-time buyers is...
www.thetruthaboutguns.com www.thetruthaboutguns.com

important part
  • Add (and remove) trustees as you please. Silencer Shop provides free addendum forms for this purpose. Trustees added after approval do not have to submit a photo or fingerprints. Y’all just fill out and sign the addendum and it’s done. Trustees have all possession and use rights for the NFA item on your Silencer Shop trust.
    • Example: add your spouse so she/he isn’t legally in felonious possession of an NFA item should you be out of the house (if anyone else in your home has the code to the safe or if the NFA item isn’t locked up, they’re “in possession” of it) or if you leave it in your range bag in the trunk of the car and the wife borrows it.
    • Example: add your hunting buddy so he can hunt suppressed on his big trip, then remove him afterwards (if you so choose).
 
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92G said:
Avoid 556 can for AR15. they just create more back pressure and portpop. I use a few 556 cans and they’re great if you’re willing to run an AGB or other tuning strategies. For new suppressor owner just get a quality 30 cal and a rimfire suppressor. Those two will cover 90% of applications.
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You could also run an OSS which has almost zero flow restriction and as such will be quieter to the shooter. I haven't shot an unsuppressed 5.56 rifle in years outside of three gun, suppress everything.
 
92G said:
Avoid 556 can for AR15. they just create more back pressure and portpop. I use a few 556 cans and they’re great if you’re willing to run an AGB or other tuning strategies. For new suppressor owner just get a quality 30 cal and a rimfire suppressor. Those two will cover 90% of applications.
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While I agree with the comment on a quality .30 can and rimfire can, I have to disagree with the 5.56 hate. I have two GMT-HALOs mounted on 10.5" ARs, and they run like tops with fixed gas blocks and plain-Jane charging handles. Great suppression (you only get so much with 5.56), no gassy face, etc. I ran an indoor rifle course recently, and the obvious benefit was greatly magnified. Plus, a dedicated 5.56 can will generally be lighter. You can't tell the HALOs are there.

One other related thought: I went for the HALOs because the mounting is universal to any A2 flash hider, and I figured I could move then to any AR I owned, but they're essentially permanently mounted to those ARs. I never take them off. I probably could have gone direct thread. Same with my 9mm carbines: I went with the YHM QD system, but those cans never come off the carbines, either. My point is, QD systems are great, but cans frequently find "a home," and don't move that much. I could have saved some money I spent on QD flash hiders on rifles that won't get the can.
 
ScottS said:
One other related thought: I went for the HALOs because the mounting is universal to any A2 flash hider, and I figured I could move then to any AR I owned, but they're essentially permanently mounted to those ARs. I never take them off. I probably could have gone direct thread. Same with my 9mm carbines: I went with the YHM QD system, but those cans never come off the carbines, either. My point is, QD systems are great, but cans frequently find "a home," and don't move that much. I could have saved some money I spent on QD flash hiders on rifles that won't get the
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This is my evolution. With the money I have spent on QD muzzle devices, I could have direct thread cans on the 4 rifles that I shoot with my SDN-6 and SF RC2 on most.
 
edmorseiii said:
I have a lot of 556 and 300blk through the SDN-6, and it still does suppressor things but it's heavy as f*** compared to the modern cans on the market. That can lives on my MCX until I buy a lighter, shorter replacement for that gun.
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I think weight is a huge consideration for rifle cans. Like I said, i never used my (heavy AF) all chro-moly, mono-core THIRTY till after I had it rebuilt. Rifle suppressors are (generally) heavier because of the higher temperatures and pressures, and are hanging off the very end of a long barrel, so even a few ounces extra are perceptible.

IMHO silencerco cans with a titanium tube and stellite baffles are where it's at. Stellite is one of the best practical materials for baffles, again IMHO. It has great high-temp performance and is highly resistant to erosion. We used stellite 6 or 21 for valves seats in high-temp, turbulent flow, erosive (slurry/entrained solid) applications and it worked like a champ. My friend's silencerco omega is almost imperceptibly light and has proven very durable.
 
APFSDS said:
I think weight is a huge consideration for rifle cans. Like I said, i never used my (heavy AF) all chro-moly, mono-core THIRTY till after I had it rebuilt. Rifle suppressors are (generally) heavier because of the higher temperatures and pressures, and are hanging off the very end of a long barrel, so even a few ounces extra are perceptible.

IMHO silencerco cans with a titanium tube and stellite baffles are where it's at. Stellite is one of the best practical materials for baffles, again IMHO. It has great high-temp performance and is highly resistant to erosion. We used stellite 6 or 21 for valves seats in high-temp, turbulent flow, erosive (slurry/entrained solid) applications and it worked like a champ. My friend's silencerco omega is almost imperceptibly light and has proven very durable.
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A lot of newer cans are light, space metals are neat, SiCo is kinda gay tho.
 

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