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Upgraded to an original ddx ZF4 score rig for the K43

majspud

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I decided to upgrade my K43 with an original ZF4 rig. I sold one duplicate K98 and a K98 stock set to get within $50. Mount is original late war phosphate within 400 serial numbers of the rifle. Scope is the rarer ddx version. Optics are slightly cloudy, but I would call it 90%. Fits beautifully. I got two boxes of PPU match grade ammo the other week, and I'll find time to sight it in next week before the snow flies.

Eyepiece, sunshade, and lens covers are reproductions.

This guy had an amazing collection; more than 100 K98s and K43s on display, 1/3 scoped. Drawers of Lugers, Scopes, and 1911s. 2 MG42s. Awesome.
T
 

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A little better; but still glare/reflection at an archery target 25 yards away.

T
 

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Put 10 rounds of PPU match 200 gr. FMJ/BT at 100 yards to test the scope. 40 degrees, sunny, little wind. Didn't hit a damn thing, which surprised me as I has laser bore sighted the rifle yesterday. I checked the laser when I came home, and it was still spot on. At 25 yards the elevation was at about 400; I moved it from 100-400 at the range. I was too cold to move to the 50 and try again, but I will in the next day or so. Would really help to have a spotter when doing these things. The reproduction scope put the first round low left; took 5 more rounds to dial it in. Not sure what the issue here was.

T
 
Where did you get this from? I just got a hold of my own G43 last week and would like to put a correct optic on it, but a little unsure of where to go to.
 
Put 10 rounds of PPU match 200 gr. FMJ/BT at 100 yards to test the scope. 40 degrees, sunny, little wind. Didn't hit a damn thing, which surprised me as I has laser bore sighted the rifle yesterday. I checked the laser when I came home, and it was still spot on.
That's unfortunate.

Would really help to have a spotter when doing these things.
I confirmed that fact last week. Couldn't quite get it done on my own, but with a pal I got it done fairly quickly. Good luck, looking forward to the report on the next attempt.
 
Where did you get this from? I just got a hold of my own G43 last week and would like to put a correct optic on it, but a little unsure of where to go to.

Off the K98k forum.

G43? You're moving up in the world!

T
 
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what did you use as a "zero" on your 25 yard laser bore?

its been a while since i played with a laser bore sighter but on average
the point of aim is about 2" give or take a 1/2" or so above the laser at 25'
 
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No clue; I couldn't really tell on the berm where the hits were since it had rained and everything was mud. I had the elevation down to 100 when it had centered with the laser at 400. This was the same technique I had used with the reproduction scope and the first shot was low left in that case.

I'll try at 50 yards tomorrow before it gets really cold later this week.

T
 
My guess is you where way high?

If your laser bore sighting at 25 yards you need the aim point to be below the laser dot or bore...I will guess about 1-1.5".
Does the scope and mount have provisions for rough adjustments....
 
so basically you want the laser on the circle and the post on the crosshairs good luck
P7OBI23.png
if you want a more specific zero I need from bore center to scope center I guessed at 3" ?
 
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Here is the view of the scope. I put the laser point dotting the "i" on the sight. Eyeballing the ruler its about 2.5" center to center.

T
 

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Here is the view of the scope. I put the laser point dotting the "i" on the sight. Eyeballing the ruler its about 2.5" center to center.

T

You want the aiming point. Tip of center post to be aiming about 1.5" higher than the laser dot.
You can try and print target above or just draw one.

If you zero(shooting live rounds) at 50 yards for a 100 yard zero your group center should be about .5" low vs your aim point.

Of course these are all rough estimates...and also in inches. I could do in meters but that will take some time.

I'm curious to know what they actually zeroed the scope for? Wonder if it was as close to point of aim as the platform can muster or did they use 100m and sight in a little high so you can get hits on target with out adjusting the turret out to 225yards or so.

Also have you or is there any info on how to use the reticle as a range finder? Often the post reticle will 2MOA?
 
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[banana][banana][banana]

A three banana day.

[banana]#1
Started at 50 yards. Elevation perfect, first shot 8.25" wide right. Problem identified, windage changed a total of three clicks. Problem solved, 4 rounds expended.

[banana]#2
Moved to the 100 yard range. First shot right and a little high. One click down, similar with the next 2. Over compensated elevation down for round 4. Moved sights back up. Shots 5, 6, 7, 8 in black, last two in yellow. Problem solved 8 rounds expended. Elevation dial stood at 400; removed screws and set zero to 100.

[banana]#3
Moved to the 200 yard range. Shot 4 rounds at the 200 yard 18" gong; 4 consecutive hits. Rifle is sighted in.

Target photo Bun-bombed. He was not so patiently waiting to eat the target.

T
 

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[banana][banana][banana]

A three banana day.

[banana]#1
Started at 50 yards. Elevation perfect, first shot 8.25" wide right. Problem identified, windage changed a total of three clicks. Problem solved, 4 rounds expended.

[banana]#2
Moved to the 100 yard range. First shot right and a little high. One click down, similar with the next 2. Over compensated elevation down for round 4. Moved sights back up. Shots 5, 6, 7, 8 in black, last two in yellow. Problem solved 8 rounds expended. Elevation dial stood at 400; removed screws and set zero to 100.

[banana]#3
Moved to the 200 yard range. Shot 4 rounds at the 200 yard 18" gong; 4 consecutive hits. Rifle is sighted in.

Target photo Bun-bombed. He was not so patiently waiting to eat the target.

T

nice!
 
It works. It's the only scope I've ever owned so I have no comparison. I did shoot a Dragonov once; that scope was so overcrowded with symbology I didn't know where to aim it. I do like the blank upper half so as not to interfere with your sight picture. It's a little annoying that the optics are a little cloudy after the perfect view of the reproduction, but I can have it cleaned some day.

T
 
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It works. It's the only scope I've ever owned so I have no comparison. I did shoot a Dragonov once; that scope was so overcrowded sith symbology I didn't know where to aim it. I do like the blank upper half so as not to interfere with your sight picture. It's a little annoying that the optics are a little cloudy after the perfect view of the reproduction, but I can have it cleaned some day.

T

That reticle is pretty good. I think it makes for quicker alignment for typical man size battle engagements.
Cloudy glass sucks... can the lenses be cleaned and polished or is their some other issue that causes clouding of the lenses?.
 
It works. It's the only scope I've ever owned so I have no comparison. I did shoot a Dragonov once; that scope was so overcrowded sith symbology I didn't know where to aim it. I do like the blank upper half so as not to interfere with your sight picture. It's a little annoying that the optics are a little cloudy after the perfect view of the reproduction, but I can have it cleaned some day.

T
Yes, the Dragunov picture looks cluttered based on photos I've seen. I've always thought a simple chevron could be good. The one scope I have, on my 10/22, is the traditional crosshairs.
 
I should have the restored ZF41 scope back before Christmas. If it doesn't snow, I hopefully can get it sighted in and eventually use it at the 200 yard range. I wonder how it will compare? Obviously a difference between 4x and 1.5X.

T
 

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I had a Zeiss scope that I had high hopes of getting rebuilt. But some how lube found its way between 2 lenses that they glue together? Well that's what the scope guy said. Can't remember his name , in TX IIRC.
The draganov PU style scopes with the range finder are busy but work very well...I'm wishing I never sold mine.
 
... It's a little annoying that the optics are a little cloudy after the perfect view of the reproduction, but I can have it cleaned some day.

T

I'm an optical engineer..I could probably take a look and clean the optics if you wanted.

Headlights go hazy because the plastic incurs UV damage. On old optics it's outgassing of the lube which settles on the optical surfaces. Different failure modes.

Old optics can very often be cleaned and the old lube replaced with something like Krytox which eliminates the problem effectively forever.
 
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I'm an optical engineer..I could probably take a look and clean the optics if you wanted.

Headlights go hazy because the plastic incurs UV damage. On old optics it's outgassing of the lube which settles on the optical surfaces. Different failure modes.

Old optics can very often be cleaned and the old lube replaced with something like Krytox which eliminates the problem effectively forever.

A club member had a Lyman Alaskan rebuilt and it came out really nice. I'm not sure who he used although I belief he used a recommendation from Lyman?
 
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