Got my 45 colt die set delivered today. Also a primer pocket cleaner. I've just been shoving the primers in there as is.
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What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
Mudflap621
NES Member
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- Jan 24, 2019
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I wanna grab one of the brush type cleaners myself. I have the flathead screwdriver looking one and it gets the bulk stuff out but that’s about it. I’m not huge into sparkling clean anyways but think the brush type might work a little better that what I got now.
I'm stoked. Tested the 44 mag reloads in the ruger 44 carbine. The gun runs slick. This is 50 yards from a rest. I'm sure with some work at the reloading bench I can tighten that up. Last three shot group is the 3 left center of bull with 20.5 grains 2447. I didn't adjust the sights yet just doing a function check more than anything today. Shot groups got closer to center as I increased the charge. No signs if over pressure and I'm only at mid level at 20.5. I'll increase to 21.5 and retest.
Nice shooting gun!
Speaking of 44 mag, I got some brass in the tumbler now. Need to load up the last of the 240 gr XTPs I have....in anticipation of a soon to be, new acquisition...
EddieZoom
NES Member
Looked over at the MEC 600 which hasn't seen a lot of action since I cranked out my first batch of shells....cranked out a box of shells for no particular reason.
It really is a sweet shooter.
45BPCR
NES Member
I'm way behind the casting curve this year.
I only need to cast another thousand or so to be ready to shoot the 2021 season.
Assuming we have one this year.
These are 40 cal Lyman Snover's I shoot using black powder in a 40-65 Browning 1885.
As I use them in competition, I keep the weight variance very narrow.
Vertical dispersion out past 500 meters can be significant at black powder velocities if there are any variations in your load.
I weigh everything for my match loads. Cases, bullets and powder charge.
I'm not quite anal enough to weigh primers though.
The eight bullets not in trays will go back in the pot.
I use a home made PID controller to run my Lee and RCBS pots.
It made a world of difference in consistency.
If I was to do it again. I'd just buy one from a guy over on Cast Boolits who makes and sells them.
When casting my larger 38, 40 and 45 caliber bullets I use a ladle and single cavity mould.
I could never get the consistency I need using a bottom pour, and believe me, I tried.
If I'm casting pistol bullets I use my RCBS bottom pour pot and multi cavity moulds.
Likewise with 30 caliber or less rifle bullets.
With pistol bullets we shoot short range.
Small rifle bullets seem to come out pretty good, I figure it has to do with the mould fill rate.
The thermocouple is easy to transfer from one pot to the other so long as you remember to remove it from the pot before your alloy freezes.
As Mr. Spangler can attest, there's a bit of black magic/vodoo science involved when casting bullets.
Well sorta.
I haven't yet danced naked in a pentagram under a full moon.
One subject that is often discussed is fluxing.
When ladle pouring bullets I flux my alloy every 15 or so bullets.
When the surface looks like the third pic.
The lumps floating there are not impurities, it's mostly tin.
After fluxing the melt is uniformly clean and shiny.
I get maybe a 1/4 teaspoon of dirt skimmed from the top.
I use paraffin wax.
I bought 10 or so pounds of paraffin wax pellets marketed for foot baths for about a buck a pound years ago.
A pea sized pinch is all that's needed.
I didn't intend to turn this into a bullet casting explanation.
Craig
I only need to cast another thousand or so to be ready to shoot the 2021 season.
Assuming we have one this year.
These are 40 cal Lyman Snover's I shoot using black powder in a 40-65 Browning 1885.
As I use them in competition, I keep the weight variance very narrow.
Vertical dispersion out past 500 meters can be significant at black powder velocities if there are any variations in your load.
I weigh everything for my match loads. Cases, bullets and powder charge.
I'm not quite anal enough to weigh primers though.
The eight bullets not in trays will go back in the pot.
I use a home made PID controller to run my Lee and RCBS pots.
It made a world of difference in consistency.
If I was to do it again. I'd just buy one from a guy over on Cast Boolits who makes and sells them.
When casting my larger 38, 40 and 45 caliber bullets I use a ladle and single cavity mould.
I could never get the consistency I need using a bottom pour, and believe me, I tried.
If I'm casting pistol bullets I use my RCBS bottom pour pot and multi cavity moulds.
Likewise with 30 caliber or less rifle bullets.
With pistol bullets we shoot short range.
Small rifle bullets seem to come out pretty good, I figure it has to do with the mould fill rate.
The thermocouple is easy to transfer from one pot to the other so long as you remember to remove it from the pot before your alloy freezes.
As Mr. Spangler can attest, there's a bit of black magic/vodoo science involved when casting bullets.
Well sorta.
I haven't yet danced naked in a pentagram under a full moon.
One subject that is often discussed is fluxing.
When ladle pouring bullets I flux my alloy every 15 or so bullets.
When the surface looks like the third pic.
The lumps floating there are not impurities, it's mostly tin.
After fluxing the melt is uniformly clean and shiny.
I get maybe a 1/4 teaspoon of dirt skimmed from the top.
I use paraffin wax.
I bought 10 or so pounds of paraffin wax pellets marketed for foot baths for about a buck a pound years ago.
A pea sized pinch is all that's needed.
I didn't intend to turn this into a bullet casting explanation.
Craig
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Mudflap621
NES Member
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That’s a perfect reason!
Thats oxidation , this is where marvelux or borax comes in handy after you clean your alloy you just put a bit of borax in the alloy and let it cover the alloy. Some old timers use cat little.I'm way behind the casting curve this year.
I only need to cast another thousand or so to be ready to shoot the 2021 season.
Assuming we have one this year.
These are 40 cal Lyman Snover's I shoot using black powder in a 40-65 Browning 1885.
As I use them in competition, I keep the weight variance very narrow.
Vertical dispersion out past 500 meters can be significant at black powder velocities if there are any variations in your load.
I weigh everything for my match loads. Cases, bullets and powder charge.
I'm not quite anal enough to weigh primers though.
The eight bullets not in trays will go back in the pot.
I use a home made PID controller to run my Lee and RCBS pots.
It made a world of difference in consistency.
If I was to do it again. I'd just buy one from a guy over on Cast Boolits who makes and sells them.
When casting my larger 38, 40 and 45 caliber bullets I use a ladle and single cavity mould.
I could never get the consistency I need using a bottom pour, and believe me, I tried.
If I'm casting pistol bullets I use my RCBS bottom pour pot and multi cavity moulds.
Likewise with 30 caliber or less rifle bullets.
With pistol bullets we shoot short range.
Small rifle bullets seem to come out pretty good, I figure it has to do with the mould fill rate.
The thermocouple is easy to transfer from one pot to the other so long as you remember to remove it from the pot before your alloy freezes.
As Mr. Spangler can attest, there's a bit of black magic/vodoo science involved when casting bullets.
Well sorta.
I haven't yet danced naked in a pentagram under a full moon.
One subject that is often discussed is fluxing.
When ladle pouring bullets I flux my alloy every 15 or so bullets.
When the surface looks like the third pic.
The lumps floating there are not impurities, it's mostly tin.
After fluxing the melt is uniformly clean and shiny.
I get maybe a 1/4 teaspoon of dirt skimmed from the top.
I use paraffin wax.
I bought 10 or so pounds of paraffin wax pellets marketed for foot baths for about a buck a pound years ago.
A pea sized pinch is all that's needed.
I didn't intend to turn this into a bullet casting explanation.
Craig
you can read up on cover material here
Last edited:
Mudflap621
NES Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2019
- Messages
- 1,206
- Likes
- 2,767
So I think I’m about done with the load development on my tikka. Shot very good today other than me fudging up the last round of the day. Not gonna say speculate if it was me or the load but man that woulda been my best group ever. 15 rounds at 24gr and 15 at 24.2 grains everything else the same. Both first 5 round groups were clean gun and found out she doesn’t like to be clean which is good cause I hate cleaning 
.
I also ran some hitek coated through a g43. Acme with cfe pistol. Only about 25 or so rounds but barrel looks a lot better than my 1911 with same round. I’ve been playing around with this bullet and different powders trying to clean it up in the 1911 but I’ve come to conclusion it’s just a tad too small and can’t keep leading down.
since threads are useless without pics.
.I also ran some hitek coated through a g43. Acme with cfe pistol. Only about 25 or so rounds but barrel looks a lot better than my 1911 with same round. I’ve been playing around with this bullet and different powders trying to clean it up in the 1911 but I’ve come to conclusion it’s just a tad too small and can’t keep leading down.
since threads are useless without pics.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Great post!I'm way behind the casting curve this year.
I only need to cast another thousand or so to be ready to shoot the 2021 season.
Assuming we have one this year.
These are 40 cal Lyman Snover's I shoot using black powder in a 40-65 Browning 1885.
As I use them in competition, I keep the weight variance very narrow.
Vertical dispersion out past 500 meters can be significant at black powder velocities if there are any variations in your load.
I weigh everything for my match loads. Cases, bullets and powder charge.
I'm not quite anal enough to weigh primers though.
The eight bullets not in trays will go back in the pot.
I use a home made PID controller to run my Lee and RCBS pots.
It made a world of difference in consistency.
If I was to do it again. I'd just buy one from a guy over on Cast Boolits who makes and sells them.
When casting my larger 38, 40 and 45 caliber bullets I use a ladle and single cavity mould.
I could never get the consistency I need using a bottom pour, and believe me, I tried.
If I'm casting pistol bullets I use my RCBS bottom pour pot and multi cavity moulds.
Likewise with 30 caliber or less rifle bullets.
With pistol bullets we shoot short range.
Small rifle bullets seem to come out pretty good, I figure it has to do with the mould fill rate.
The thermocouple is easy to transfer from one pot to the other so long as you remember to remove it from the pot before your alloy freezes.
As Mr. Spangler can attest, there's a bit of black magic/vodoo science involved when casting bullets.
Well sorta.
I haven't yet danced naked in a pentagram under a full moon.
One subject that is often discussed is fluxing.
When ladle pouring bullets I flux my alloy every 15 or so bullets.
When the surface looks like the third pic.
The lumps floating there are not impurities, it's mostly tin.
After fluxing the melt is uniformly clean and shiny.
I get maybe a 1/4 teaspoon of dirt skimmed from the top.
I use paraffin wax.
I bought 10 or so pounds of paraffin wax pellets marketed for foot baths for about a buck a pound years ago.
A pea sized pinch is all that's needed.
I didn't intend to turn this into a bullet casting explanation.
Craig
Yeah bottom pour can’t get you where you need to be for rifle competition.
I have measure 535 grain 45 caliber bullets with a 1 grain variation all thanks to ladle pouring. It’s a game changer.
I do the same thing with fluxing. Once I see the ladle is tinned all over and I get a little skin on top it’s another piece of wax and squish the lumps against the side walls till nothing is left but dust!
What kind of groups are you shooting at 100 yards with those beautiful bullets?
45BPCR
NES Member
I do all my load development at 200-300 yards.
Those somewhat big heavy bullets take a while to go to sleep and fly straight.
Somewhere I have photos of targets and load data.
I'm not searching and re-sizing photos tonight however.
MOA groups?
On a very good day.
A very very good day.
Benchrest guys call them screamers.
1 1/2 MOA is the level I strive for consistently.
There are times I do it.
Those somewhat big heavy bullets take a while to go to sleep and fly straight.
Somewhere I have photos of targets and load data.
I'm not searching and re-sizing photos tonight however.
MOA groups?
On a very good day.
A very very good day.
Benchrest guys call them screamers.
1 1/2 MOA is the level I strive for consistently.
There are times I do it.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
That's respectable for sure. I don't think I could pull that off. I really haven't done load development for my Pedersoli Sharps and really have no clue what I should be doing to rest and shoot her properly. I know I should be looking for a dead spot in the barrel and rest it there.
I always doubt myself and wonder if someone with some better knowledge and technique could get a better group out of her. There aren't many guys around here into the game to be able to mentor me.
I really need to get back on that rifle now that I think about it. I have some beautifully cast 535s all paper patched perfectly (or once again as perfectly as I know how to do)
Mudflap621
NES Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2019
- Messages
- 1,206
- Likes
- 2,767
I'm way behind the casting curve this year.
I only need to cast another thousand or so to be ready to shoot the 2021 season.
Assuming we have one this year.
These are 40 cal Lyman Snover's I shoot using black powder in a 40-65 Browning 1885.
As I use them in competition, I keep the weight variance very narrow.
Vertical dispersion out past 500 meters can be significant at black powder velocities if there are any variations in your load.
I weigh everything for my match loads. Cases, bullets and powder charge.
I'm not quite anal enough to weigh primers though.
The eight bullets not in trays will go back in the pot.
I use a home made PID controller to run my Lee and RCBS pots.
It made a world of difference in consistency.
If I was to do it again. I'd just buy one from a guy over on Cast Boolits who makes and sells them.
When casting my larger 38, 40 and 45 caliber bullets I use a ladle and single cavity mould.
I could never get the consistency I need using a bottom pour, and believe me, I tried.
If I'm casting pistol bullets I use my RCBS bottom pour pot and multi cavity moulds.
Likewise with 30 caliber or less rifle bullets.
With pistol bullets we shoot short range.
Small rifle bullets seem to come out pretty good, I figure it has to do with the mould fill rate.
The thermocouple is easy to transfer from one pot to the other so long as you remember to remove it from the pot before your alloy freezes.
As Mr. Spangler can attest, there's a bit of black magic/vodoo science involved when casting bullets.
Well sorta.
I haven't yet danced naked in a pentagram under a full moon.
One subject that is often discussed is fluxing.
When ladle pouring bullets I flux my alloy every 15 or so bullets.
When the surface looks like the third pic.
The lumps floating there are not impurities, it's mostly tin.
After fluxing the melt is uniformly clean and shiny.
I get maybe a 1/4 teaspoon of dirt skimmed from the top.
I use paraffin wax.
I bought 10 or so pounds of paraffin wax pellets marketed for foot baths for about a buck a pound years ago.
A pea sized pinch is all that's needed.
I didn't intend to turn this into a bullet casting explanation.
Craig
You two Sirs are on another level for sure. My hats off to you both. I honestly didn’t even understand half of what you guys said but I’m intrigued. Your bullets falling asleep?
JRT
NES Member
I finally set up my Hornady AP progressive and I was such a noob when I bought it back in 2015 I didn't know you needed shell plates. If you see a Hornady Shell Plate #8 (Part # 392608) in the world let me know, alternatively if you have one you would like to sell I will overpay. There doesn't seem to be a number 8 available on the interwebs. Thank you!
D
Deleted member 67409
Question for those using Norma powder and or bullets: do you have a hardcopy Norma manual? If so, how do you like it? I find their online data poorly organized; however, the Norma 2nd ed. is $80 on Amazon. That's a lot for some neater organization.
D
Deleted member 67409
My first press arrived from Brownell's.
I'm embarrassed to even post this. Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive Press Shell Plate for sale online | eBay
More special powdah more special books
older manual but free
plus they have data on the web site.
using Norma powder for my 6.5 swede
JRT
NES Member
I never think to check gunbroker. It’s done, thank you for the lead.
JRT
NES Member
Yeah, that was the only one I found and I passed. I just bought the one linked on Gunbroker, it’s still insane but it’s the last thing I need and I’m sitting on years of stockpiled components. Thank you for the lead though.
JRT
NES Member
Congrats! If you see yourself picking up another press or just don’t like a permanent fixture on your bench check out the mounting options from Inline. Also, bullet plates are sold separately!
Welcome to InLine Fabrication Performance Reloading Equipment – Inline Fabrication
InLine Fabrication builds reloading equipment including dedicated and quick change press mounts for RCBS Dillon Hornady LEE Redding Frankford arsenal Area 419 Short action customs Forster bench organizational gear, LED press lighting lots of helpful accessories and parts. Reloading bench Strong...
inlinefabrication.com
D
Deleted member 67409
Congrats! If you see yourself picking up another press or just don’t like a permanent fixture on your bench check out the mounting options from Inline. Also, bullet plates are sold separately!
Welcome to InLine Fabrication Performance Reloading Equipment – Inline Fabrication
InLine Fabrication builds reloading equipment including dedicated and quick change press mounts for RCBS Dillon Hornady LEE Redding Frankford arsenal Area 419 Short action customs Forster bench organizational gear, LED press lighting lots of helpful accessories and parts. Reloading bench Strong...inlinefabrication.com
Yeah, I've got a shell holder on backorder from Brownell's.
I'll be starting off by developing 8x57 hunting loads. US-made 8x57 is notoriously underpowered and wonky in availability in normal times. So, it finally got me to buy a press.
I also want to load 7.62 NATO M80-spec, 7.62x39 hunting loads, and maybe 9x19 and 7.62x25.
JRT
NES Member
I bought a Lyman complete manual but I mostly use the Hornady app. I think it’s $20 a year. I just looked up 8x57 Mauser and they have data on four different bullet weights and Norma 202 for all the weights. I like the app and it’s easily updated if things change or something new get SAMMI approved.
D
Deleted member 67409
My dad has the Hornady app and he likes it because he doesn't load metallic much, so he buys what he loads.
Right now, I have Lee, Sierra, and Woodleigh load manuals, plus a couple books on Handloading 101. I'm debating buying a Norma manual because I'm thinking of using Norma Vulkan 196gr PP bullets + 203B powder. I've checked out Norma's online data and it requires some digging to get to.
Of course, I could just print out a screenshot of Norma's load data for the 196gr Vulkan.
It's pretty bad. I'm mag dumping factory ammo so I can use the brass to reload.
I really like how one of the loads I have for .243 is shooting and I have a bunch of factory hunting ammo which I don't particularly like.
Finally got some ammo cases in so I can stop putting my reloads in plastic bags.
I bought one by mistake for .45aarp/.40auto if anyone wants it. Probably not worth it for me to ship it since it only cost me like $5. If anyone wants this and happens to go through southern, NH, I can stick it out front of my house for you.
I really like how one of the loads I have for .243 is shooting and I have a bunch of factory hunting ammo which I don't particularly like.
Finally got some ammo cases in so I can stop putting my reloads in plastic bags.
I bought one by mistake for .45aarp/.40auto if anyone wants it. Probably not worth it for me to ship it since it only cost me like $5. If anyone wants this and happens to go through southern, NH, I can stick it out front of my house for you.
45 aarp, new caliber for grouchy old guys lol?
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
Tallahassee
NES Member
Love mine, I think you will be very happy with yours as well. Out of curiosity, what are they going for these days.
