Wolf Ammo?

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Hi Ya~

Looking for any feed back on Wolf ammo http://www.wolfammo.com The price is damn tempting. I've a Springfield mdl 1911 pistol that prefers a diet of plump 230 grain bullets for target shooting. And at $163.00 for 500 rounds. Its about as good of a price I can hope to find these days...years....life time?

Any input with about Wolf Ammo would be welcome

Cheers
David
 
I don't have much experience, as I shoot almost exclusively reloads, but I did win 100 rounds of Wold .223 that I've yet to shoot. But, from what I've heard, you can spend the difference you save on Wolf to buy the cleaning supplies you'll need afterwards.
 
I've used the .45 stuff for years and found it to be very good.

Be sure you buy one box and test it in YOUR gun before you buy a pile of it.

I've not had any problems with it in any gun that I own, but some guns can be ammo selective.

BTW, the .45 steel cases ARE reloadable if they are still being produced with boxer primers. I've reloaded many in the past with no problems.
 
I have had a lot of luck with wolf, feeds my CZ82 9x18 fine no issues at all with AK/SKS
My stag AR15 has eaten all I can feed it. My S&W 4013tsw also eats everything. When I had my 45 S&w performance center 1911 it ate wolf and shot it better than I can deliver it. Hands down for the money it is great. If your gun will chew it,swallow it and spit it out.
one note, I find the military clasic has a tad more punch than the black box .223 ?????
 
The steel cases peened the nose of the ejector on a friends Les Baer 5". A little filing fixed it but I've never seen that happen with brass cases and I've shot a lot of rounds through 1911 style pistols.
 
I won't let Wolf ammo near any of my handguns, period!

Tried .45 in my S&W 1911 and 9mm in 5 different handguns. All had FTF problems with Wolf and NO PROBLEMS with any other ammo I've used.

I shoot lots of Wolf .223 with no problem in my ARs. Mil-spec chambers seem to handle the stuff fine. Competition chambers will choke on Wolf.
 
I won't let Wolf ammo near any of my handguns, period!

Tried .45 in my S&W 1911 and 9mm in 5 different handguns. All had FTF problems with Wolf and NO PROBLEMS with any other ammo I've used.

I shoot lots of Wolf .223 with no problem in my ARs. Mil-spec chambers seem to handle the stuff fine. Competition chambers will choke on Wolf.

+1 same here with me
 
Never had a problem with any Wolf ammo. I've used it in both my G17 and G21SF as well as in my AR & AK. I think once I had a FTF with primer strike but other than that it's been reliable ... dirty but reliable.
 
FTF in my case was failure to feed, e.g. double-feeds, etc.

I had no issues with primer strikes.

Your case is rare. (on the failure to feed part)

Failures to feed are usually caused by a problem on the gun or a magazine problem: ie tight chamber, weak extractor, poorly formed or coarse feed ramps, or in the case of magazines, improperly formed feed lips causing improper feed angle, sticky followers, and weak follower springs.

Wolf is hardly underpowered pistol ammo and cycles the heaviest of submachinegun bolts faster than most other commercial ammo. It also has a bullet contour and OAL that is comparable to or the same as many other major brands of ammo out there.

I'm well north of the 60,000 rd count fired with Wolf pistol ammo in both .45 and 9mm and can say in all honesty that if I've ever had a failure with Wolf, I don't remember it and if there were any they could certainly be counted on less than one hand.
 
I have also heard that with the exception of AK style rifles, the steel cases can be tough on the extractor over time.
 
I have some .223 I use in my Mini-14. It feeds and shoots fine. However after I burn through the 200 or so rounds I have I will be going back to brass. To many horror stories about damaged ejectors and chambers to risk using it. Not worth saving the money plus the cases are about useless afterward.
 
See my recent thread about Wolf .40 ammo and squib rounds... the steel case split and caused me a massive hassle.

Just to set the record straight, Your post was/is incorrectly titled, as it was not a squib, it was a stuck case that had split.

It can happen with any type of casing, brass or steel. Your incident is hardly a common occurance with new factory loaded steel cased ammo.

In every incident of case failure I've encountered in my lifetime of shooting, whether it was case head separation(split at the web around the circumference), split mouths or necks, blown primer pockets, case rupture the offending case has been brass.

As for Wolf ammo, I've been using it since it was first introduced in this country and stated back then that it would sell well and it has.
There are far more successful users of Wolf ammo than not and if it were such a poor or undesireable product, the shelves of every place that sold it would be piled high with it. This is not now and never has been the case over the years.

There are many guns with chambers that are tight, incorrectly machined, coarsely surfaced, ect. and just because Wolf ammo doesn't work in them is not a reflection on the ammo's quality. Personally, I wouldn't favor owning a gun that wouldn't shoot Wolf ammo reliably.
Yes I've had a stuck case with Wolf, but I've also had them with brass cased ammo......it happens, NO ammo brand is perfect 100% and it was more a case of a dirty chamber that I had neglected to properly clean.

The first squib I ever encountered was with Winchester ammunition and it cost me $39 for a new barrel on a subgun. Kind of hard to let off the trigger in time at 1800rds a minute firing rate. I have never had a single failure to fire or squib round in any caliber of Wolf ammo.....ever.

As for parts wear, the price difference between a case of Wolf and a case of not even premium brass cased ammo would buy enough extractors for any gun to last more than a lifetime of any shooter.

Most of the myths surrounding Wolf ammo and parts wear are perpetuated by people who have never fired a round of the stuff because they don't trust it, yet they'll continue on the complaints of others.
I've used tens of thousands of it in several calibers and several guns and have yet had to change out an extractor.

YMMV, I'll buy Wolf ammo as long as its available at a reasonable price.
 
I have some .223 I use in my Mini-14. It feeds and shoots fine. However after I burn through the 200 or so rounds I have I will be going back to brass. To many horror stories about damaged ejectors and chambers to risk using it. Not worth saving the money plus the cases are about useless afterward.

Most of them are "stories", with no substance.

The cases ARE reloadable if boxer primed, and the amount of money saved between a case of brass .223 and a case of Wolf .223 will buy you half a dozen extractors for a mini-14.....not that you'd likely ever need one.

Swab the chamber every 200rds and that gun will function fine.
 
I only buy wolf for AK ammo, that's basically it.

I can tell you one thing, though. I'd buy Wolf before I bought Ultramax.... that stuff is terrible, or at least their QC is. Same thing with AMERC/"American Ammunition" crap.

-Mike
 
I only buy wolf for AK ammo, that's basically it.

I can tell you one thing, though. I'd buy Wolf before I bought Ultramax.... that stuff is terrible, or at least their QC is. Same thing with AMERC/"American Ammunition" crap.

-Mike

+1
When I had my Russian rifles they loved it, and did great with it. My AR's were more fussy, and cleanup was a pain. I did not have very good luck with it in pistols.. however the Ultramax stuff was crap as well. If I had an AK/SKS I would probably use exclusively wolf in it as it is cheap and using more expensive ammo through it would be casting pearls to swine. Everything else I learned to pay the extra $$ for and have better quality and something that I can reload.
 
I was worried about the Wolf ammo as well, it was all they had left at Dick's Sporting Goods (Saugus) for 9mm but it was cheap and I figured I'd give it a try. Last night I put 100 rounds through my S&W M&P 9 without any issues whatsoever, I will say it is pretty messy and my gun will need a thorough cleaning now but it fired as well as can be expected.
 
Think of it this way. If TSHTF, and you are forced to use whatever ammo you can scavenge or find... how is that AR, finely tuned so that it feeds ultra-reliably with Hornady TAP and other such premium brands, going to save your ass if all you can find is Wolf and Brown Bear?

Wolf functions perfectly in so many rifles that I'm willing to bet that in most cases it is a rifle issue, rather than an ammunition issue, causing problems.
 
Think of it this way. If TSHTF, and you are forced to use whatever ammo you can scavenge or find... how is that AR, finely tuned so that it feeds ultra-reliably with Hornady TAP and other such premium brands, going to save your ass if all you can find is Wolf and Brown Bear?

IMO it would be a moot issue because those brands are also going to be hard to come by. If you don't have what you need before the event starts, you're probably screwed anyways.

-Mike
 
I've used up a case of Wolf 7.62x39 in SKSs and AKs, and half a case of 223 in a milspec barreled AR, with no problems. Not the most accurate ammo in the AR, but not bad.

Wolf 22LR Match ammo is really good stuff. I have one older semiauto rifle that doesn't like feeding it. In every other 22 I've run it in, it was reliable and very accurate.
 
Think of it this way. If TSHTF, and you are forced to use whatever ammo you can scavenge or find... how is that AR, finely tuned so that it feeds ultra-reliably with Hornady TAP and other such premium brands, going to save your ass if all you can find is Wolf and Brown Bear?

Wolf functions perfectly in so many rifles that I'm willing to bet that in most cases it is a rifle issue, rather than an ammunition issue, causing problems.[/QUOTE]

I'd go further than that....ALL of them are "rifle issues" and not the ammo.

If one rifle can shoot Wolf fine, and another won't....where lies the problem if its the same ammo?
 
IMO it would be a moot issue because those brands are also going to be hard to come by. If you don't have what you need before the event starts, you're probably screwed anyways.

-Mike

True... but in any zombie apocalypse scenario I would want a rifle that I knew I could rely on to shoot anything in the right caliber.
 
I fired off 50 rds of Wolf Ammo today. 115gr 9mm and didn't have a problem running through my PB92FS. I was having problems earlier with this gun with ammo not feeding properly. I think my gun just needed to warn in.

Do firearms need to get broken in?
 
IF you buy wolf ammo and are not happy CALL THEM they have a 100% satisfaction guarantee. They even pay shipping. So save your receipts.

My dad said and still says. "gun giving you problems there", "did ya clean it?", "clean it again" My dad also believed you could clean a gun to much.

Im new to the AR arena. So far though, I have not had any issues with my STAG or my "kit" gun. They both eat steel case wolf well. I also ran about 300 rounds of some older steel case wolf that had the greenish lacquer. I also bought re build kits for all my mags.
 
I fired off 50 rds of Wolf Ammo today. 115gr 9mm and didn't have a problem running through my PB92FS. I was having problems earlier with this gun with ammo not feeding properly. I think my gun just needed to warn in.

Do firearms need to get broken in?

Yes, many firearms need to be broken in. You have machined surfaces that mate with eachother and unless they are pre polished as part of production(a rarity in today's world), they need to polish themselves against eachother. This is accomplished by using quality ammo with sufficient power loads to overcome any drag that might occur from coarse surface friction.

Chambers and feed ramps should also be polished smoothe.

AK and other combloc type guns are built to looser tolerances and are machined crudely but being loose eliminates the need for polishing of their parts, so they function well even when very dirty.

Look at a new gun that hasn't been fired, then look at a well used gun and see the differences in the machined mating surfaces.
 
I think I've tried about nine different brands of ammo in my S&W 1911Sc. The only one it had issues with was Wolf.

I haven't fired any Wolf through my AR, but I have observed repeated FTF's and FTE's in others who were shooting Wolf.

In defense of Wolf, my SAR-1 & SKS love the stuff.
 
My experience with Wolf has been the steel cased 7.62x39 mostly through my AK's. It feeds fine and is accurate enough. As for pistols I tend to shy away from their steel cased pistol line. However I have bought their Gold line in 40 s+w and 380 acp (both HP's) and it has been very accurate and reliable. I was fortunate enough to pick up 1000 rounds of the 380 acp at about $14 a box at ZHA a while ago. I wish I picked up more at the time as it was a killer deal on great ammo. If you can find the wolf gold anywhere don't give it a second thought and buy it.
 
I don't subscribe to the myth of Wolf ammo. You hear people telling stories about how awful and/or dirty the stuff is, but I've never actually seen any of these problems in person. And with the amount of time I've spent on the range around people shooting Wolf ammo, if it was as bad as people make it out to be, I would have seen it by now. I think there's just something about cheap/Russian/steel cased ammo that turns people off, and they come up with reasons not to like it.

Finalygotabeltfed is spot on here - unless you're shooting a match firearm with very tight tolerances, there's no reason you can't shoot Wolf ammo.


I can tell you one thing, though. I'd buy Wolf before I bought Ultramax.... that stuff is terrible, or at least their QC is. Same thing with AMERC/"American Ammunition" crap.

-Mike

Couldn't agree with Mike more. While different brands of ammo have different quirks, there's only one brand of ammo I've consistently seen cause problems, in my rifles and those around me, and that's Ultramax. It's commercially reloaded ammo, and they use insanely brittle brass. After my third case head , I quit using the stuff.
 
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