Zeroing new rifle sights

[wolfenkraft]

Hey everyone,

I added a pair of magpul back up sights (MBUS) and I'm going to zero them this weekend. Does anyone have any info on this? Can I still use the A2 25m targets? Should I mechanical zero first, do I follow the same guidelines as the A2 style for the front post, level the plate against the rest of the sight?

I'm assuming clicks have different values as well on the mbus vs a traditional A2, so the 25m A2 target will be more of a guide than accurate.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[atilla]

A2 targets: yup.

i forget what the clicks on the MBUS are, i just cranked them down until the group began to tighten up. i've found that they can be kind of tempermental, or you will have no problems. a common complaint i heard was that the sight was cranked pretty far left, and that's the case with the rifle i just zeroed, too.

i cheated and did it sitting in a chair at MFL and did more of a 15 meter zero, haha. oh well. it's better than it was. can always be improved later.

 

[wolfenkraft]

Awesome. Thanks for the info. The rifle already has a red dot that is supposedly somewhat zeroed, so I have them cowitnessing and it all lines up, so hopefully they're already kind of zeroed.

 

[icarus]

A2 Targets, yes.

Mechanical Zero, yes

If you know your Battle Zero (if you were in the military you should know) it will NOT be the same... ie, mine is left 4, up 7 from mechanical zero (Standard military irons are 1.25moa per 1/4 on front, and 0.5moa per click on rear)

Clicks on the MBUS's are not the same as a normal a1, a2 etc. I included a link to magpul's info for them, it seems that it is a bit odd, a quote from the pdf is "elevation(front site) - each 1/4 rotation is 1-7/8 inches at 100m" "windage (rear sight) each click 3/4 in at 100m"

So, in short, rear sight is 0.75moa per click, and front is 1.875moa per 1/4 turn. Also, thats assuming you have the 14.5" sight radius (sight to sight), it will be slightly different if you have less or more.

If all else fails... shoot 3 rounds, click some in the right direction, guess and check haha.

http://cdn.magpul.com/downloads/MBUS 5x7_090514_Update.pdf

You can print a2 zeroing targets at http://www.bobdbob.com/~deneb/doc/targets/m16a2-25m-zero.pdf

 

[wolfenkraft]

Awesome. Thanks for the info. Excited to zero it tomorrow.

 

[knoxy]

If all else fails... shoot 3 rounds, click some in the right direction, guess and check haha.

Ha! That's how I do it!

Zero at 25yds supposedly puts me on target at 200yds too with 7.62x39 ballistics, according to what the internet told me.

 

[wolfenkraft]

Yep basically did that at 25ish meters, got them fairly zeroed.

 

[Neuro]

I typically use a laser bore sight at 15 yards then do a bench or standing sight in at 25 yards. Then bench at 100 (or at least I will once I get to a 100 yd range....)

 

[wolfenkraft]

Yeah I started with a laser at 15 or so just to make sure I was even close. The MBUS I had to crank almost all the way over right, not the left which was weird.

 

[Neuro]

For each new optic I get (factory new or used) I start with both the elevation and the wind dials at mechanical zero. These are not symetric. Imagine two orthogonal ovals. When you get to the extremes on one, you have limited room to move on the other and find that no amount of cranking will move the reticule to where you want it. From the mechanical center you can find out how many clicks you are from your -zero wind sight if things ever get misaligned. I do the elevation first then wind, but do not know if one is better than the other.

 

[wolfenkraft]

Thanks Neuro, that's what I ended up doing. Ordered a Vortex Strikefire, that looks like a lot of fun. Should be a high quality red dot for the money, only $169 + free shipping.