80% AR build/build party in Nahsua, NH --LAST CALL--

What I read, people seem to have better luck with more amps. Such as ~12v but more than 3amps current. I have the 30+ year old battery charger home now (has settings for regular and deep cycle batteries). I want to test it on some scrap metal in the next day or two. I'll post up pictures of my test and such.

The problem with this method is that you can't regulate the current very well. It's based on how close you get to the metal with the q-tip. The higher the voltage, the more current will flow at the same distance (q-tip to surface). If you get too close you will short the supply outputs together.

For the big 12V supply you have I would definitely NOT use it for this. The reason is that I have no idea what will happen if you short the outputs on that supply. I didn't see a fuse and without one you might burn out one of your rectifier diodes. Even with a fuse, you would be replacing them pretty regularly. The bench supply I have is designed to current limit so shorting the outputs is no big deal.

Your battery charger or the other supply might be ok (if it current limits) but
How can you go wrong with more power??
well, you can make a welder. Or a hole.
 
I also have a power supply that gives out up to 3A at 12v, that I could try...

As long as it current limits go for it. Enjoy all the bubbles ;)

circuit breaker and a steady hand

Circuit breakers might work, but they take some time to kick in.

I would suggest that if you want to use a supply that has no short circuit protection to use a series resistor (high power one). For example a 12 volt supply with a 12A limit would need a 1 ohm resistor. That way you can't short the outputs, but you will lose some of the power in the resistor.

Once I etch my lower I can lend out my supply if anyone needs it.
 
I have a nice variable resistor/ H.D. pot set up for it if needed.
I only looked quickly but that is a nice bench supply you had. If you guys are familiar with it go with it.
 
pic of daves work from today please [smile]

I will get some tomorrow. I finished two more lowers. The first took me 2.5 hours
to do the FCG Milling. The Second was only 2 hours. That time does not count
drilling and reaming the side holes. Or the extra tapping of threads that I do.
So it is just the milling.

If we can work in teams we can cut that time a little more. The Second person
can run the vacuum to clear the chips instead of blasting them all over with the
Compressed Air Line.

Golddiggie was making some bench blocks today.

Malodave
 
Is there a build party this weekend? I thought we were waiting for the correct jigs before we do another build.

It figures - I take a few days off and now I'm lost...[rofl]
 
Is there a build party this weekend? I thought we were waiting for the correct jigs before we do another build.

It figures - I take a few days off and now I'm lost...[rofl]

We have dropride's jig for use, along with the crap jigs. Dave and I were talking (tonight) about augmenting the chitty jigs to make them better. Or at least make them viable for some use.
 
We have dropride's jig for use, along with the crap jigs. Dave and I were talking (tonight) about augmenting the chitty jigs to make them better. Or at least make them viable for some use.

You doing both days? Sounds like I will come up one of the days to try to help you guys out. Just need to figure out which day.
 
Here are the pix from my three lowers:

The only thing I didn't take a photo of was the takedown pin detent spring
set screw mod. The Stainless Steel bushings with anti-rotation pins are
from Tactical Innovations. The hammer and trigger pin holes have to be
drilled larger and then tapped 1/4-40. I still have to do this on the other lower
of mine. The Pistol Buffer Tube is from Model "1" sales. Lower Parts kits
are from Rock River Arms. The Rifle Stock I got from Goldiggie so I don't know
the Manufacturer right now.

Malodave

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I forgot to add that we made two Hammer blocks the other day. You can test out
your LPKs while you are there. I also have the one I bought.

Malodave
 
I hope to be looking at an used small mill tomorrow/Wednesday. IF it looks good, and has enough items with it, we might be able to use that as a second milling station. I'll post more after I've looked at it.
 
I have a line on another mill, but it's further north of where we'll be (Manchester). Waiting for information on that one too. IF it works well, the second milling station could be a really big help. Even though it will be the same rate (most likely) as Malodave's mill, it would mean two people could be milling out the FCG pocket at the same time.
 
First mill was just TFS (Too Fvcking Small), and smaller than Malodave's... I'm heading up to Manchester to look at a larger one today. With any luck, I'll have a working mill in the back of the truck, here at home, later on today. Then it's just a matter of getting it into the basement, setup, and running for the build party. With it being a larger mill, we could make more aggressive cuts with it.

I might need a couple of extra hands getting it into the basement... Any volunteers? [smile]
 
I'll be heading up there shortly. IF I purchase it, I'd like to get it into the basement before it gets dark today. Otherwise, I'll have to cover it with a tarp overnight and then try to get it into the basement tomorrow/Friday. Would also be nice to have someone with more experience look it over so that I know if anything (or how much) needs to be done with/to it to get it into a highly working state. I hope that as long as it works, sounds decent (motor and spindle) and the table moves in both directions properly, it will be good to go. I won't have any DRO's on it for a bit (will be on my near-term list) so we'll probably not want to use it for final cuts on the lowers. Still, it should do well to get rid of most of the FCG pocket faster.
 
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