AR Muzzle device question??

silversquirrel said:
Can anyone recommend a muzzle device that meets ma rules and can be welded on a 14.5" bbl to get to 16" for NFA legal? I figure if its got to be welded... why not go as short as is legal.
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Battlecomp 1.5, BCM Gunfighter mod 1, PWS FSC556, and many others.
 
YHM Phantom looks exactly like what im looking for.

If they get bbls in stock i can order it with the comp welded on. but then have to use a clamp on sight.

thanks winter
 
winter said:
YHM makes a nice brake for under $30
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silversquirrel said:
YHM Phantom looks exactly like what im looking for.

If they get bbls in stock i can order it with the comp welded on. but then have to use a clamp on sight.

thanks winter
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These are nice looking aggressive brakes. And for whatever reason they do not seem to be as loud as others.
 
Serapis said:
These are nice looking aggressive brakes. And for whatever reason they do not seem to be as loud as others.
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jasons said:
That's because it doesn't work.
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Supermoto said:
Yep, I had borrow a rifle for a match that had a phantom, terrible brake, didn't control the rifle and the bottom ports blew back enough dirt will prone to stop the rifle
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Generally speaking, the most effective brakes are loud. There is no way around it.

A $40 Miculek brake is more effective than a $150 battlecomp. Its simple physics: Redirecting the gas to capture the inertia of the mass of gas to counter recoil. If the brake directs gas rearward and not just out, then it has the added effect of a jet like "pull" forward, further reducing recoil.

All of this serves to direct the concussion, at the least to the sides and in a few cases back somewhat towards the shooter.

When you hear "our brake is as effective as others but not as loud" immediately think SNAKE OIL.
 
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dcmdon said:
Generally speaking, the most effective brakes are loud. There is no way around it.

A $40 Miculek brake is more effective than a $150 battlecomp. Its simple physics: Redirecting the gas to capture the inertia of the mass of gas to counter recoil. If the brake directs gas rearward and not just out, then it has the added effect of a jet like "pull" forward, further reducing recoil.

All of this serves to direct the concussion, at the least to the sides and in a few cases back somewhat towards the shooter.

When you hear "our brake is as effective as others but not as loud" immediately think SNAKE OIL.
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The Miculek is a great brake... I have one on my LR-308. On that rifle, it's definitely painful to be around.
 
chopper_man said:
How do you know it's an A2? There are many similar looking muzzle brakes out there that looks like A2.... Tough one to prove IMHO.

How do you know it's not pinned and welded, or silver soldered or any other method? On my Remsport AR you cannot even tell it's pinned/welded because he did such a great job with it. It's only a tiny hole (3/16 I think) which is pinned then the pin is welded in. After that it's filed/sanded smooth, coat of paint over it, can't even see it.

I hate this state.....
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that's a good question, because of that, when I pin and weld a brake I leave the bead slightly raised so there's no question. I could dremel it down sand and polish, and you'd never know it was welded, but living in this wretched state...etc
 
I've always left the drop of weld visible.

Acceptable methods for the ATF are seam welding, silver soldering, and blind pinning. Although I've seen some Bushmasters from the 90s where the pin was visible.
 
dcmdon said:
I've always left the drop of weld visible.

Acceptable methods for the ATF are seam welding, silver soldering, and blind pinning. Although I've seen some Bushmasters from the 90s where the pin was visible.
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Anyone who's ever seen one of my welds knows the weld is there. Bigger the blob, better the job!
 
I have this muzzle break on my SIG 551A1 and it works great.EGW Evolution Gun Works.
 

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dcmdon said:
I've always left the drop of weld visible.

Acceptable methods for the ATF are seam welding, silver soldering, and blind pinning. Although I've seen some Bushmasters from the 90s where the pin was visible.
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Not sure if you're joking...but if not

A blind hole is a hole that is drilled to a specific depth, but doesn't break though the other side of the material. Therefore, a blind pin refers to the pin being set into a hole drilled into the barrel that doesn't break though to the bore (which would be bad)

It has nothing to do with being able to see the pin or not.
 
Almostelmo said:
Not sure if you're joking...but if not

A blind hole is a hole that is drilled to a specific depth, but doesn't break though the other side of the material. Therefore, a blind pin refers to the pin being set into a hole drilled into the barrel that doesn't break though to the bore (which would be bad)

It has nothing to do with being able to see the pin or not.
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Technically true, but in practice the ATF wants the pin welded over. (Double-blind pin????)

From http://www.atf.gov/publications/download/p/atf-p-5320-8/atf-p-5320-8-chapter-2.pdf:
Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over.
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For. The. Children. (Otherwise they might prick their soft little fingers on the end of the pin or something.)
 
jasons said:
Technically true, but in practice the ATF wants the pin welded over. (Double-blind pin????)

From http://www.atf.gov/publications/download/p/atf-p-5320-8/atf-p-5320-8-chapter-2.pdf:


For. The. Children. (Otherwise they might prick their soft little fingers on the end of the pin or something.)
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Ahh gotcha. I suppose it is a double blind pin.

If I used a large blind pin and ran tiny little TIG bead over the top of the pin head with the sides still visible would that be like dividing by zero? [laugh]
 
Reading through this thread it has made things clear as the Boston Harbor... With the information that I gathered from this thread. The person at the gun show sold me a flash suppressor and not a muzzle brake/break. .

IMG_20130324_105214_943_zpseae48e26.jpg


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IMG_20130324_105158_434_zps16870cba.jpg
 
Sinster said:
Reading through this thread it has made things clear as the Boston Harbor... With the information that I gathered from this thread. The person at the gun show sold me a flash suppressor and not a muzzle brake/break. .
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Looks like a standard A2 flash hider to me.
 
zbomb said:
Your naive. In the end it's your ass if you mount it and your responsibility to know the law.

They sell it, because as shown, people will buy it.
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If I ask for a muzzle brake and they hand and sell me a flash suppressor without letting me know it's a suppressor. Leaving me to believe they handed me what I ask for.

Yes I'm naive for not knowing the physically difference of the two.
 
Well. At least you caught it early. In all honesty, any smith in CT or MA would have looked at that thing and looked at you and asked you why in gods name you were having them pin an illegal muzzle device onto your gun. Ha.

Please tell me you only paid $10 or less for that.
 

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