Ar15 DIY question

FalArAk

FalArAk

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I have never done anything but take the upper off,switch triggers..just basic type stuff.I got a gift certificate from Bushy so I bought a bunch of tools to start doing my own work..

I have the clamshell upper reciever block from Bushmaster and the multi-wrench...I think I can figure out how to remove the BBL.

My question is this...When putting the BBL back on,is there a torque value ? Or do I just wrench it until it won't move anymore ?

If there is a torque value,how do I go about doing this ? The only torque wrenches I have seen are for sockets.

Any tips at all would be great.

I really want to start working on this car bean myself.It seems easy,it's just that I have never seen anybody work on one before.Plus the fact if i screw up,the gun can go boom..I learn best by watching someone,but I think most gunsmiths have a liability thing when letting people in the shop.

Are there such things as AR build parties ? Like everyone just gets together,drinks beer and tears down thier rifles ??..LOL
 
cdkayak said:
There should be a 1/2" square cut out in the combo wrench that you can insert the torque wrench into.

CD
Click to expand...

Ahhh so that's what the square hole is for..LOL cool,now I have an excuse to go buy a torque wrench.

Wait a sec,I'm not married anymore (Well my wife doesn't live with me),I don't need any stinking excuses :p
 
What I do is when you tighten the nut by hand as far as will go you will see one of the teeth line up directly infront of the gas tube tract..it looks like a half turn will make it line up perfectly and it will and then I go another turn to the next full opening and that works fine.Dont over tourque it as you can sheer of the barrels indexing pin and cause the rifle to not zero properly from it being too tight.
 
Being wicked sick last night and today,I drank beer and finished it up.Took off the FSB,installed the LaRue FF,put the FSB back on (Gotta have the bayo lug) Last thing I have to do is get the Phantom welded on.I ended up torqueing it (BBL nut) too about 40lbs to get the gas tube hole to line up.

Looks great,I have been fondling it all day admiring my work [smile] Thanks for the help Dave..

Is there a DIY way to permanently install the Phantom ? Damn I wish I didn't have to weld that friggin thing on...Thinking about it,I should go zero the weapon before welding the thing on..

I'll post a pic as soon as the Ontario M9 comes in,should be tomorrow.
 
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Is this something someone can do that hasn't soldered anything since high school ?

I have the Phantom with the Bottom port closed,but when I screw it on with the peel washer,the closed bottom port is no-where near the bottom,and it doesn't seem like it will make another 1/4 turn to place it on properly.

is this normal ? Would a crush washer make that much of a differance in port placement ?
 
It can be done with the proper torch.One used for jewelry will work as it goes over 1000 degrees.Crush washers are good but they are a 1 use item..once its crushed corectly or incorectly it cannot be used again.I mount an upper in the receiver vice block before wrenching it on.I like working with peel washers as they are easy to use.The silver comes in a rod form and using the torch you simply melt the silver around the circumference of the groove behind the flash hider where it meets the barrel.Less messy with the crush washer as it has a dfining groove between the barrel and the hider but can be done with either.With a peel washer you do it directly on the peel washer around the whole circumference.Its done just like sweating on solder to copper pipe and is done easier with the upper in a vice block.
 
That doesn't sound to difficult,but I still have that question regarding the FH position.Without the washer,the FH goes on perfectly,the closed port is exactely where it should be.With the washer when I screw on the FH,the closed port is a 1/2 turn away from the bottom,it is actually at the top of the BBL.There is now way the FH is going to make a half turn for the proper FH placement.

Is it possible Bushmaster sent me the washer for maybe an A2 FH ? I looked on my other car bean and the washer looks kind of "conical",meaning the washer is kind of wide where it touches the FH,and the other end tapers down.

Or,is it not necessary to have the FH torqued all the way tight.I can back it off and it is properly placed.

As far as tools,I have everything I need except for the torch and silver [smile] But,I can get these and then certify myself as an official armorer in my own mind.

I also read something about "timing" the FH,what does this entail ?
 
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There are 3 common washers for the FS. A split, peel and crush. The split was used for the 3 prong and early FSs that didn't need to be timed. The peel and crush are for use with timed FSs. As Big Dave said, a crush is pretty much a one use washer & replace.

To time your FS with a peel washer: Heat the washer slightly and you can seperate or 'peel' layers away with a razor or sharp knife to adjust it's thickness. It is somewhat trial and error unless you've done it several times to get the hang of how many layers it takes to get a full rotation. or 1/2 or 1/3 etc.

I've seen a good explanation of how to do this. I'll see if I can track it down & post it or post a link.

CD

ETA:
Written by JosephR on arfcom:
When you heat it to separate the pieces like you are supposed to do, the whole thing expands a little.

1. heat it
2. peel of 1/3 of it
3. try the large chunk
4. if it doesn't time right, add from the portions removed or remove a little more from the large portion, depending on direction.
5. stop when you can get the FS almost TDC by hand
6. add another small section, tighten FS by hand and then use wrench to squish whatever room there is left between the pieces caused by heating.
7. don't use a large wrench until the last tightening- when you know that a little tightening is all it will take to get it TDC.

I know you want perfection, but the FS can be off 12 degrees in either directin according to the manual.
Click to expand...
 
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Some suppliers will ship small parts at the cost of regular postage, call them and ask.

As for the crush over peel, I'd check around a little more on that. The crush washer is a composite & may not take the heat as well. Both methods of permanently attaching the FS require significant heat, either with the silver solder or welding over the pins.

I don't know for sure about the crush washer not holding up, it's just something I felt was worth researching further.

CD
 
As cd said when you heat a peel washer it comes apart easily.The crushwasher does have a conical end.I would call Bushmaster and tell them they sent the wrong washer and you would prefer a peel washer instead they will send it for free[smile]
 
If you're in Mass, I do believe a Flash Hider isn't legal. You should install a muzzle brake instead. Bushmaster has some decent ones. I had mine spot welded on.

You definitely want to use a "Peel Washer" for a Brake or A2 Flash Hider.
 
Nickle said:
If you're in Mass, I do believe a Flash Hider isn't legal. You should install a muzzle brake instead. Bushmaster has some decent ones. I had mine spot welded on.

You definitely want to use a "Peel Washer" for a Brake or A2 Flash Hider.
Click to expand...


I have a pre-ban Nickle..So I should only use a peel for the A2 FH and go with a crush washer for the Phantom ? Crush washer does seem easier to install properly.
 
Either or..on real colt M4s crushwashers are used with the A2 hider.I find it easier to work with a peel washer...and yes for those of us with PRE_BANS flash hiders are fine its just the phantome needs to be permanent on a 14.5 barrel unless you get a 14.7 from CMMG then they can permanently attach an A2 hider.
 
I am about to venture into unknown territory this weekend,I picked up a cannister of MAP gas and a adjustable flame nozzle,and 2 silver solder rods with a working temp of 1680 degrees...

If anyone hears of a minor explosion coming from the area of Shrewsbury,just assume that I am dead with a peel washer welded to my forehead...
 
Just go left to right in a fanning motion until the silver starts to melt like sweating plumbing copper tube..dont let it sit directly on the barrel steal you will kill the barrel.Let me know how it turns out.My mother is giving me her torch soon..she does jewelry.Next time I have to permenently attach a flash hider Ill get a picture of my 68 year old mom doing...its too funny[smile]
 
Greg said:
I have a pre-ban Nickle..So I should only use a peel for the A2 FH and go with a crush washer for the Phantom ? Crush washer does seem easier to install properly.
Click to expand...

Whichever works for you. The A2 FH has to be indexed. For that, I use the peel washer.

I understand you're extending a short barrel on a pre-ban. Make sure to "permanently attach" the extension. Blind Pin, Spot welding, and silver solder are all acceptable per BATFE.
 
I'm thinking about building an AR. Could anyone tell me what a fair price for a pre-ban lower is? I'd prefer to stay with Bushmaster or Colt and would like a complete lower if possible. TIA

Regards,
Chris
 
I payed about $300.00 for a stripped E.A.A. Co. registered preban receiver off an auction site.

At the Shiners gun show I was able to get a complete parts kit for $415.00 (lower parts kit, complete A3 upper, guards, grip stock) so for around $715.00 I built a complete preban AR.

Of course I put some extra goodies on it,
Colt Bayonet $30
Carry handle $45 shipped
Handgaurd accessory rails $20
Tactical light $35
 
I don't want to rain on anybody's parade, but the definition of "pre-ban" by BATFE was "assembled into a COMPLETE PRE-BAN CONFIGURATION FIREARM" (OR A COMPLETE KIT OF PARTS) by 9/13/94. Just because a lower was built before that date DID NOT QUALIFY.

Now, as to how the "wizards on Bacon Hill" wrote it into MGLs, I'll let the attorneys here comment as I really don't know. [Just be aware that more than 1/2 the MA LEOs don't even know that mere civilians can own pre-ban AR15s! [rolleyes] Most believed the HCI hype that they were "banned" which was never the case!]
 

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