Best rifle for around $600?

Here is what I came up with.
For example:

1. Upper with handle

https://www.primaryarms.com/Radical...z1aQ.Eis5.AreXPg..A3iSLA.b..l.BStr.n...VaCBNw

$240
$12 for basic charging handle

2. Bolt carrier group $80

http://www.surplusammo.com/saa-m16-complete-bolt-carrier-group-mpi-tested-223-5-56/

3. Complete lower $190

http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...wer-magpul-str-edition-black-no-magazine.html

They have complete lowers as cheap as $149.

Total $522

The rest of the money will be spent on MA compliant muzzle device, pin and weld, bringing it up to $600.

You really can't get good optics under $200 - waste of money, IMHO, save your $$$ and use iron sights for now.

Edit: with Palmetto State Armory you can get your AR as low as $442 and it will be at least as good as low end S&W.

If you're in MA, palmetto will not ship lower receivers, even stripped ones, to MA FFLs.

Also, don't skimp on the BCG. It is the heart of your rifle. I can't tell very well from the picture, but the gas key staking looks a little anemic.
 
Hmm, how about this:

Stag Arms lower assembly - $209

https://www.stagarms.com/lower-receiver-with-kit-installed/

Buttstock - $49

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M7XE2H0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

With abovementioned upper it is $510

Maybe check here to see if there is a decent BCG for $90 (hard to find, I know)

http://www.arpartsfinder.com/index.htm

This is fun, kinda like never-ending "looking to upgrade/build my computer" threads on tech forums... [grin]

As you're doing this don't forget to add shipping and transfer to total cost. Some of these companies charge a hefty price to ship so wait for "holiday" sales which seem to happen every couple weeks, sometimes they offer free shipping codes.
 
Hmm, how about this:

Stag Arms lower assembly - $209

https://www.stagarms.com/lower-receiver-with-kit-installed/

Buttstock - $49

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M7XE2H0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

With abovementioned upper it is $510

Maybe check here to see if there is a decent BCG for $90 (hard to find, I know)

http://www.arpartsfinder.com/index.htm

This is fun, kinda like never-ending "looking to upgrade/build my computer" threads on tech forums... [grin]

Radical firearms has that same upper you were looking for on their website for $199 right now.
 
Right so careful practice with a,M1 might save you money.
I agree 223 is cheaper although you can reload M1 ammo for 42 cents with a decent bullet.
 
As you're doing this don't forget to add shipping and transfer to total cost. Some of these companies charge a hefty price to ship so wait for "holiday" sales which seem to happen every couple weeks, sometimes they offer free shipping codes.

This.....some places will charge you more for small orders or a minimum shipping charge of 8.50$
By the time one of my friends finished his build he was almost 90$ worth of shipping! Plus the 40$ transfer fee.
 
I don't like that the SW does not have ejection port cover or forward assist.

I never close the ejection port cover on my AR and only used the forward assist in basic training when they taught us to use it back in 85. Neither are needed in a rifle, especially if you are not in combat environment.
 
I'm actually a firm believer in having a forward assist, but the M&P is the best deal out there to get a RELIABLE AR in your hands.

If you feel confident building, by all means do it, but you'll end up spending more than $600 and it will take a while.
 
If you want to build we can give you a list of parts you can shop around for. OR you could buy a complete upper and just assemble the lower (35 minutes)
 
If you want to build we can give you a list of parts you can shop around for. OR you could buy a complete upper and just assemble the lower (35 minutes)
I have helped several people do it this way, the price is generally under $500 if you shop around, PSA, Joe Bob, Bear Creek Arsenal, Del Ton etc...
 
Without forward assist how do you make sure the round is seated after a press check? I think there's a way to do it but can't remember.

I wish we could ask Mr. stoner as the original design didn't call for one?
Maybe its because im a lefty or maybe its my dads influence? I was brought up to not jam a firearm closed but rather clear it and re chamber...
I just don't think a absence of a forward assist or dust cover should be the deciding factor for a rifle ?
Maybe im just wrong ?
 
I wish we could ask Mr. stoner as the original design didn't call for one?
Maybe its because im a lefty or maybe its my dads influence? I was brought up to not jam a firearm closed but rather clear it and re chamber...
I just don't think a absence of a forward assist or dust cover should be the deciding factor for a rifle ?
Maybe im just wrong ?

Well, I certainly don't want to eject a round when a tap of the forward assist would be just as good. You wouldn't want to leave a live round on the ground, that's how school's get locked down.

Plus you'd have to twiddle your thumbs when the Rifle 101 instructor is going over how to use a forward assist and dust cover.
 
I've personally seen conditions that create circumstances where a forward assist is required to get the gun back in action. I also like it for quick brass checks, as ejecting a round to check the status of the weapon is asinine.

Now, that said. The OP is looking for a first rifle and he wants it to be cheap. Those factors direct him towards the M&P. It's a known good quality rifle that functions and has a warranty. If I could talk the OP into building a nice BCM gun and spending $1000-1200, I would. But the criteria given limit what I'm prepared to recommend as a RELIABLE rifle.

I have a bunch of PSA and PTAC stuff. The quality is marginal and I wouldn't bet my life on one. I certainly would not recommend a PSA build for a first timer.

If I had to bet my life on a cheap build vs a M&P with no FA/Ej.cover I choose the M&P every day of the week.
 
I've personally seen conditions that create circumstances where a forward assist is required to get the gun back in action. I also like it for quick brass checks, as ejecting a round to check the status of the weapon is asinine.

Now, that said. The OP is looking for a first rifle and he wants it to be cheap. Those factors direct him towards the M&P. It's a known good quality rifle that functions and has a warranty. If I could talk the OP into building a nice BCM gun and spending $1000-1200, I would. But the criteria given limit what I'm prepared to recommend as a RELIABLE rifle.

I have a bunch of PSA and PTAC stuff. The quality is marginal and I wouldn't bet my life on one. I certainly would not recommend a PSA build for a first timer.

/thread - if the budget is truly $600, the M&P is the one to get.

Can't recommend the Ruger since it has 3 MA features you'd have to fix (for $80 or so total).
 
CMP Field Grade M1 Garand is $630 to your door.

No ****ing brainer. I know, he wants an AR, but you can always get one of those...Garands from the CMP won't be around forever.
 
OP, get yourself a M&P sport or any other $600 range AR a sling,few mags and a case of ammo.
Come on down to a cmp shoot/match/clinic and get some good old fashion rifle shooting in under your belt......or come to a cmp shoot/match/clinic and have a go with a,M1.
Oct 11 @ Old Colony in Pembroke Ma. The club's M1s are very nice and 10 ring capable even with HXP,surplus......
Have fun.......
 
I've personally seen conditions that create circumstances where a forward assist is required to get the gun back in action. I also like it for quick brass checks, as ejecting a round to check the status of the weapon is asinine.

Now, that said. The OP is looking for a first rifle and he wants it to be cheap. Those factors direct him towards the M&P. It's a known good quality rifle that functions and has a warranty. If I could talk the OP into building a nice BCM gun and spending $1000-1200, I would. But the criteria given limit what I'm prepared to recommend as a RELIABLE rifle.

I have a bunch of PSA and PTAC stuff. The quality is marginal and I wouldn't bet my life on one. I certainly would not recommend a PSA build for a first timer.

If I had to bet my life on a cheap build vs a M&P with no FA/Ej.cover I choose the M&P every day of the week.

Exactly,
I'm curious though if anyone is old enough to remember training on the old slab side M16 how they handled a bolt failure to close or a chambering malfunction.
Also does S&W give any special instructions in the owners manual for handling the sport with out a forward assist?
 
Exactly,
I'm curious though if anyone is old enough to remember training on the old slab side M16 how they handled a bolt failure to close or a chambering malfunction.
Also does S&W give any special instructions in the owners manual for handling the sport with out a forward assist?

It's not ideal, but can't you use your thumb in that cutout on the side of the carrier where the vent holes are and push it forward?
 
Exactly,
I'm curious though if anyone is old enough to remember training on the old slab side M16 how they handled a bolt failure to close or a chambering malfunction.
Also does S&W give any special instructions in the owners manual for handling the sport with out a forward assist?
I'm a guessing but if your bolt didn't close you would have to cycle the action and hope for the best. If locked up you would have to mortar the buttstock while pulling the charging handle. If you lived through all that I would think you would have dropped the damn thing and grabbed a sidearm and/or got real low to the ground. There is a reason they added forward assist, because the troops needed it.

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