First experience with S&W 642.. yikes

[Len-2A Training]

Hi - I agree with Len S. about the trigger pull. Mine was 14# from the factory! Had a gunsmith at BRP do some work on it, it's made a huge difference.

Welcome back! What trigger weight did you end up with?

OUCH!! Looks like they made a lot of them that were "out of spec"!

I will bring my Lyman Digital Trigger Pull gauge with me to the May NES Members Shoot for anyone who wants to check their guns. If they are out of spec, S&W WILL take care of it for no cost (if you ask nicely they will pay shipping to them too).

VK, I see "you're green" . . . why don't you sign up for the shoot and join us?

 

[vellnueve]

Two comments:

Round Gun Shooter knows revolvers (hence the name). You could do a lot worse than follow his suggestions.

M1911 also has a good point. I paint my snub sights as well. I have gone so far as to buy the Birchwood-Casey paint pens, and like them a lot. There are some that say: It's a rip off to buy the pens when you can buy more paint for less money at a modeling store. But, when you factor in the time and convenience of using a paint pen over a paint pot, and the time cleaning the brush, and the cost of the brush, and the cost of the thinner or other brush cleaner, well, I'll take the pen.

Well, I'm do some modeling/painting in my free time so I have plenty of model paint lying around. Sounds like a great idea.

I use water based paints. They will wear off faster but it makes cleanup/removal a breeze.

 

[depicts]

I use the fluorescent paint, and just use a toothpick to put it on, a little at a time. No brush cleanup, no thinner. Just take your time, let it dry between coats and it's great.

 

[Fooped]

Dry fire. Dry fire. Dry fire some more. While watching TV, dry fire. It's amazing how the action will smooth and ease up...and it will.

Only after you do that A LOT, bring it for a trigger job if you're not happy.

I have the same gun, do you reccomend dry firing with nothing in the chamber, or with a snap cap or spent casing?

 

[Fooped]

Hi Lugnut,
I have the same model Snubby and I share your pain. After 10-15 rounds, the trigger felt like it was glued forward. When I dry fire about 20 times, finger fatigue would set in. When shooting more than ten rounds of +P, my hand would shake as I tried to "squeeze!!" the trigger. I bought gloves which helped a bit with absorbing the impact but did nothing to make the trigger less difficult. The sighting on the Snubby is interesting and can be a challenge. I have Crimson laser grips and I found when I tried to sight without the laser, my shot was a good one but not an X. I use the laser beam in conjunction with the front sight.
I decided to have the trigger weight reduced and I just got my gun back today. I can dry fire 24-30 times without flinching. The gunsmith charged $40 for this work and I believe it is worth every cent to be able to squeeze the trigger comfortably and not have to worry about my hand trembling from exertion on the trigger. He painted my front sight and now I can clearly line up my shots. The laser proves me dead on.
Best regards.

Would you be willing to share the name of the gunsmith? I'd be interested in having some trigger work done on mine too.

Thanks!

 

[Riverside]

Reply to Fooped

Would you be willing to share the name of the gunsmith? I'd be interested in having some trigger work done on mine too.

Good Evening. Greg Derr is the gunsmith who worked on my Snubby. You can e-mail him at [email protected]. His shop phone number is 781-834-3225.

 

[Fooped]

Thanks very much!

 

[M1911]

I have the same gun, do you reccomend dry firing with nothing in the chamber, or with a snap cap or spent casing?

No need for anything in the chamber. If you want to use snap caps, go ahead, but no need.

 

[MegaPlinker]

I was able to improve the trigger of my GP100 by polishing the internals with a dremel. It is lighter and much smoother now. I was thinking about going to lighter springs but might just leave it as is now.