Just picked this up today. wood/stainless. Love the wooden Mini 14's
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
-
Be sure to enter the NES/Pioneer Valley Arms February Giveaway ***Smith & Wesson SD9VE 9MM***
General Mini 14 Thread
- Thread starter 92G
- Start date
Nice,the brass pins I used work great. I have a few other mill surps with brass pin repair. I have lesser value stocks i have just drilled a hole at the end of the crack and used simple wood glue. Ugly but worked
note to those new to wood repairs:
Some glue is just not good. I used a glue that expanded got all over the out side of the crack and made a mess of the wood as the glue doe
I didn't realize that Sage International which makes the EBR stocks for the military's M-14s and M1As also makes them for mini-14s. MP5 style collapsible stocks, buffer tube version for AR stocks and grips, and an adapter to use folding stocks.
Problem is the damn thing is $500+ because it is milled aluminum rather than made from polymer and the integrated rail is taller than Ultimak's rail, so you probably couldn't obtain a co-witness with the iron sights.
Would have to use an A2 or Magpul fixed stock on it in MA.
Why the Hell Ruger is selling their tactical models with Tapco's garbage furniture and not these is beyond me. They could probably cut the production costs down significantly with an economy of scale.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXxc1v7B1s8
Also this was just released:
cogburnarsenal.com
It's pretty sweet if you look at the video.
Problem is the damn thing is $500+ because it is milled aluminum rather than made from polymer and the integrated rail is taller than Ultimak's rail, so you probably couldn't obtain a co-witness with the iron sights.
Would have to use an A2 or Magpul fixed stock on it in MA.
Why the Hell Ruger is selling their tactical models with Tapco's garbage furniture and not these is beyond me. They could probably cut the production costs down significantly with an economy of scale.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXxc1v7B1s8
Also this was just released:
Mini-14/30 Trigger Finger Magazine Release
An ambidextrous trigger finger magazine release. ***Stainless parts are updated with a new printing process. They have a more dull grey finish than previous iterations.*** This part is made to ord…
cogburnarsenal.com
Last edited:
PL-52
NES Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2016
- Messages
- 5,436
- Likes
- 7,195
Cogburn gets some more of my $$ I like that mag release . Make it easier to dump mags with cold weather shooting gloves on . Just installed the stripper clip adapter last week.
This with a fixed wood stock, pistol grip, and wood rail panels.....hmm.... If I didn't care about bankruptcy and sinking money into a rifle that probably would be better spent on a Tavor or a Sig 556 or SCAR or something else.
Probably would have to remove my pinned on aftermarket brake to make sure I didn't run afoul of the feature count for an ambiguous muzzle device in the Commonwealth with that chassis.
I didn't realize that Sage International which makes the EBR stocks for the military's M-14s and M1As also makes them for mini-14s. MP5 style collapsible stocks, buffer tube version for AR stocks and grips, and an adapter to use folding stocks.
Problem is the damn thing is $500+ because it is milled aluminum rather than made from polymer and the integrated rail is taller than Ultimak's rail, so you probably couldn't obtain a co-witness with the iron sights.
Would have to use an A2 or Magpul fixed stock on it in MA.
Why the Hell Ruger is selling their tactical models with Tapco's garbage furniture and not these is beyond me. They could probably cut the production costs down significantly with an economy of scale.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXxc1v7B1s8
Also this was just released:
It's pretty sweet if you look at the video.Mini-14/30 Trigger Finger Magazine Release
An ambidextrous trigger finger magazine release. ***Stainless parts are updated with a new printing process. They have a more dull grey finish than previous iterations.*** This part is made to ord…
my guess to why: well a new ruger tactical runs close to $1000, add thier factory mag price especially for preban and it gets expensive quick.
Now ruger adds sage chassis your going to see a $1500 rifle. At that point I think a lot of peop le would look to a M1a,A R, or other semi auto with some what "cheap" mags available that work.
Im actually surprised Ruger has not dropped the mini14 yet.
People who love their mini 14s and want that over the top tactical look would drop $500 on a mini14.
Vs buying one set up from the factory .
I feel like ruger knows it market pretty well.
Think about how much tapco stuff is out there vs sage . Thats what 80% of rugers base pricepoint is at.
Talked to Accuracy Systems and they ceased carrying the SCAR stock due to poor customer service & communication with Sage Industries which makes it.
Given the weight and that the rail can't co-witness with the iron sights because of being too high, it's probably better to get that Sampson Manufacturing folding stock, pin it for MA compliance (or maybe put an a metal spacer behind the spring detent that fixes the stock so it can't be pushed in without complete disassembly) and use an Ultimak handguard. That would probably cost the same or less and weigh a Hell of lot less. Combine that with Cogsburn's new extend magazine release and you have a decent defense carbine.
Makes me wonder why Ruger stopped making the folding stocks since they still had LEO buyers even during the AWB.
Given the weight and that the rail can't co-witness with the iron sights because of being too high, it's probably better to get that Sampson Manufacturing folding stock, pin it for MA compliance (or maybe put an a metal spacer behind the spring detent that fixes the stock so it can't be pushed in without complete disassembly) and use an Ultimak handguard. That would probably cost the same or less and weigh a Hell of lot less. Combine that with Cogsburn's new extend magazine release and you have a decent defense carbine.
Makes me wonder why Ruger stopped making the folding stocks since they still had LEO buyers even during the AWB.
Last edited:
I had Carl at Accuracy Systems do his custom 3 pillar stock fitting and it's outstanding work
if someone has some cash to drop on a mini 14 I really cannot recommend his work enough
when he's done with a mini 14 it's a whole different animal especially in terms of accuracy
he has a budget package deal that if I were doing again I would stick with that as it's way cheaper than having him do things a la carte
it's really pathetic to me that Ruger won't put some TLC into the mini 14 line
in terms of handguards i'm running an ultimak on one of my mini's and it has worked out very well
fits an RDS nicely
provides lots of surface area for heat dissipitation
only real down-side to me is the factory OEM handguard does a nice job of covering the top of the op rod
when installing the ultimak or other aftermarket handguards the op rod gets a bit more exposed
it's not a huge deal but under some conditions the shooter can interfere with the action
the ultimak rail with a hogue stock makes for one sick looking and functional mini 14
with regards to the enlarged mag release, i would not want that
mag changes are like an AK in that my left hand unlocks and removes the old mag, not like an AR where the mags feed directly up into the action
the smaller OEM mag release ensures that the mag doesn't get release inadvertently
unless someone needs the bigger mag release i think the rifle is better off with the OEM; this is something that looks cool but in function I'm not sure it's providing much
Last edited:
And factory folding stocks are for sale again:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJm_atlxoD0
My 2nd childhood starts SOON.
A-TM Folding Stock for the Ruger® Mini-14®
Check out the deal on A-TM Folding Stock for the Ruger® Mini-14® at Samson Manufacturing
www.samson-mfg.com
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJm_atlxoD0
My 2nd childhood starts SOON.
Too bad MA has banned folding stocks,
didn't they?
didn't they?
You can disable the folding mechanism and use it as fixed stock (what I intend to do as an inmate of the commonwealth) or purchase a preban GB model mini14 receiver which had a folding stock as a standard configuration from the factory(identifiable by the sling mount on the side of gas block rather than underneath).
Almost entirely correct. The preban GB model did not have to have a folder originally. It was already classified as a assault rifle due to detachable mag, Bayo mount and flash hider. So adding one more evil feature does not matter.
This was originally a fixed stock. I moved the sling mount to the side of the gas block to make it look more authentic.
My Samson stock arrived today. EDIT:see later in the thread on figuring how to make it MA compliant.
Didn't come with a rear swing swivel. Going to order a Grovetech.
Did come with a liner.
Only Samson marking is inside the rear fold.
mmmm walnut
grip is rather nice plastic
Didn't come with a rear swing swivel. Going to order a Grovetech.
Did come with a liner.
Only Samson marking is inside the rear fold.
mmmm walnut
grip is rather nice plastic
Last edited:
![[mg]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/036.gif "Machine Gun [mg]")
I don't quite understand this line of thinking- if you want to be fully compliant, and are going to pin a perfectly good folding stock, why not just get a non folding stock and run it as such, save the evil stock incase you ever move out of state?
Because my wrist hurts holding a non-pistol grip in a shouldered position after a few minutes. The stock is more ergonomic for my physical disabilities. I can't hold a traditional rifle in a standing position without pain. I'd have sit down or go prone and that's not always possible.
Ahh ok I gotcha. They do make simpler telescoping stocks (like an AR) you could pin similarly as they do with ARs. Also once you have a buffer tube style stock there are some stocks out there for ARs in ban states, or just because people want them tight for precision shooting (like a CTR) that basically pin themselves and require a "tool" to unlock them.
Good video overview from a guy over on ARF,
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wApIZWokyyw&feature=youtu.be&has_verified=1
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7T0zjUHnJks
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wApIZWokyyw&feature=youtu.be&has_verified=1
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7T0zjUHnJks
Last edited:
I’d probably drill n tap the area marked and add a set screw. Put it below the plunger in the spring area. It’d be easy enough to undi and cleanup if ever leaving this wretched state.
Last edited:
EDIT:
No need for solder or drilling anything. A 3/8" diameter nylon spacer 1/4" tall can have a half round sliced off and sanded to fit perfectly in the shoulder of the plunger (MA-13900) as seen in IMG-5214.JPG. You simply fill in the milled shoulder of the plunger with a glued in placed spacer to reduce the shoulder down to cross pin slot to fix the stock once the stock is fully reassembled in the locked extended position. The steps seem wordy, but it's relatively simple.
Trim a half round the width of the slot from the 3/8" diameter x 1/4" tall nylon spacer. Sand/file the nylon spacer down until the spacer fits perfectly in the milled shoulder of the plunger.
Cut/sand/file 3/32" off the bottom of the half round spacer so that the pin has a hole to pass through as shown in IMG-5214. You should be able to lay the retention pin (MA15200) in the slot.
Super glue the spacer into the shoulder of the plunger as shown with the slot left for the pin at the bottom of the plunger (the spring hole end). Let the glue fully dry.
Oil the inside of the hole the plunger goes into on the stock arm plate and place the plunger spring (MA-14400) in there.
Put in the plunger in the hole upside down (so the spring is pushing it out from the beveled top that normally rests against the stock arm) while holding the back of of the plunger (the side with the drilled hole for the spring) with a pair of pliers padded with electrical tape (to avoid marring the surface of the plunger). Placing the plunger in upside down provides a gripping surface for pliers on the inside and outside lip of the spring hole.
Twist the plunger around pressing down against the spring using the pliers to make sure the spacer in the plunger shoulder isn't binding against the hole in the stock arm plate, if you haven't sanded/filled/fitted the spacer perfectly plumb -gently twisting the plunger against the hole will scrape off the excess nylon until the spacer fits perfectly. Keep doing this until the plunger moves smoothly as it did prior to installing the spacer.
<<<This is why you put the plunger in backward backwards, to not have a plunger get stuck with a spacer binding in the stock arm plate. You an inside edge of the plunger to grip with pliers and have the spring tension available to push the plunger back out of the hole so it won't get stuck. If it gets stuck -which happened to me without the benefit of putting it in upside down, you'll need a strong magnet to yank it out -yet another reason to remember to make sure to oil it and have the spring in there to provide some action to push the plunger out if need be!>>>
Once you've confirmed the plunger with the spacer fitted smoothly moves up and down in the hole, you can take the plunger out and put it back in the correct way over the spring.
Slide the stock arm to the fully open position over the plunger and make sure the flat of the plunger is aligned properly against the flat of the stock arm.
Look through the retention pin hole and you'll likely notice just a tiny amount of the nylon spacer blocking the top edge retention pin hole (~1/32"). Place a 3/32 drill bit in the retention pin hole and gently turn it with pliers to clear the pin channel of the excess nylon spacer and you'll have a clear path for the pin to go through.
Tap the retention pin in and you're all set. The stock is fixed in place by the retention pin since the plunger no longer has the ability to travel with the glued in place shim blocking the plunger from being pressed.
If you've done it perfectly there will be zero movement of the plunger when you attempt to press it down with the retention pin inserted. This is permanent short of taking the stock apart again, tapping out the pin, removing the plunger and melting/dissolving/carefully chiseling out the glued nylon spacer from the shoulder of the stainless steel plunger.
Attachments
Last edited:
Now that I figured out how to unobtrusively pin the Samson folding stock into a non-folding stock from the inside, I finally had the chance to put the rifle together this weekend. Removed the pinned on muzzle device (John Masen's brake is too ambiguously looking like a brake/flash-hider for me to want to use it with a pinned stock) and went back to the plain dovetail base for my M1A front sight to keep unambiguously within the feature limit.
Bad cellphone pic, but you get the idea. The Bushnell TRS25 does lower 1/3rd co-witness with the Tech Sight rear sights and the M1A front sight in a Cogburn Arsenal pin on dovetail base. Genuinely surprised how much weight the Ultimak Scout Rail and the TRS25 adds to the front compared to running a Choate ventilated hand guard. The weight is centered on your support hand, but it is noticeable enough to make me consider ditching the Accu-Strut and maybe going with an aluminum gas block from Accuracy Systems. to dial the weight back a bit. (maybe get the adjustable version for a little extra $ to tune the gas system more precisely than the reduced bushings to the lowest reliable setting. If only ASI made a gas block with the swing swivel on the side!)
Looks funny with factory 10 rounders. Might need to get some 10 round John Masen's which have a baseplate extension to make them easier to handle.
EDIT:Took the Accu-Strut off last night. The overall weight feels like it did prior to putting on the TRS25 and Ultimak now and the balance is improved even more than it already was.
Last edited:
New Skinner Sights rail mounts for below the barrel at the gas block.
www.skinnersights.com
Ruger Mini - 14/30 Flashlight Mount
Rugers Mini~14/30 Carbines have been an icon in the shooting world. Anyone who watched The A-TEAM remembers these famous guns in action!Skinner Sights has acquired the design for several useful accessories from Lee Hadaway at The Arms RoomLee has been making Mini-14/30 accessories for almost 20...
www.skinnersights.com
Cogburn Arsenal is developing additional styles of magazine releases.
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/CCtliJrJxD2/
Bit different than the uber long ones from Matrix Precision Parts and Cogburn's current offering of a close to trigger guard plow shaped magazine release. Reminds me of a MP5's release.
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/CCtliJrJxD2/
Bit different than the uber long ones from Matrix Precision Parts and Cogburn's current offering of a close to trigger guard plow shaped magazine release. Reminds me of a MP5's release.
Anyone else have problems with the rear barrel clamp of an Ultimak rail rubbing the operating rod about 50% of the time? I installed an adjustable gas block and now the rod is rubbing the clamp. I look at the rear of the Ultimak and it seems to be level with the receiver and I can't really tell if I canted the gas block on the barrel to impart a twist in the rail towards the front. The gas block installs evenly with maybe a matchbook thick gap if that and the rail has a similarly even gap on both sides to the wood stock, so I'm at a loss unless Ultimak assumed a larger gap at the gas block (factory vs. ASI) or if my operating rod was cast slightly wider than usual, or I mucked something less obvious up. Any ideas? Worst case scenario I guess I'll sand/file down the edge of the aluminum clamp until the rod clears it 100% of the time. My fear is that it could lead to an out of battery bolt or a failure to extract from the friction.
Guy in Canada is making a light weight chassis inspired by Sage stocks (1.7lbs 6061 aluminum chassis) that accepts Magpul MLOCK parts.
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/B6wSAOYpyT5/
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/B9R4_3zJfFy/
Slap a fixed Magpul MOE on there and it would be pretty sexy for MA.
Seriously, why can't Magpul make an affordable version of a chassis like this?
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/B6wSAOYpyT5/
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/B9R4_3zJfFy/
Slap a fixed Magpul MOE on there and it would be pretty sexy for MA.
Seriously, why can't Magpul make an affordable version of a chassis like this?
Last edited:
Guy in Canada is making a light weight chassis inspired by Sage stocks (1.7lbs 6061 aluminum chassis) that accepts Magpul MLOCK parts.
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/B6wSAOYpyT5/
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/B9R4_3zJfFy/
Slap a fixed Magpul MOE on there and it would be pretty sexy for MA.
Seriously, why can't Magpul make an affordable version of a chassis like this?
IDK, grew up with wood and steel mini14s, that just looks........wrong to me. Its all about what you like/want
many make fun of my pink highlights on my AR
MagPul all the things!
Well I did a bad job trimming this MagPul tab (you leave ~5/8" of an inch from the bottom), but with a cardboard template against the stock it could be done much better to rest against the fire control assembly and stock (follow the stock contour and the fire control base plate). Cut out a notch to the bottom band of the tab for the magazine release and they work fine on Ruger factory 10 round magazines.
Much easier now to manipulate the short magazines with the textured grip and extension tab. You want more material towards the back of the magazine, enough to touch the stock, to keep the tab from riding up and blocking the magazine release, which is something I buggered on the first one I tried. Having it be slightly too tall is better than short because the stock will slide the tab down out of the way of the magazine release when you lock the magazine in.
Well I did a bad job trimming this MagPul tab (you leave ~5/8" of an inch from the bottom), but with a cardboard template against the stock it could be done much better to rest against the fire control assembly and stock (follow the stock contour and the fire control base plate). Cut out a notch to the bottom band of the tab for the magazine release and they work fine on Ruger factory 10 round magazines.Much easier now to manipulate the short magazines with the textured grip and extension tab. You want more material towards the back of the magazine, enough to touch the stock, to keep the tab from riding up and blocking the magazine release, which is something I buggered on the first one I tried. Having it be slightly too tall is better than short because the stock will slide the tab down out of the way of the magazine release when you lock the magazine in.
Similar threads
