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Gun Cleaning "hardware"
- Thread starter s4mt3k
- Start date
I definitely prefer the "flex rods" if you mean that they are made of carbon fiber. No chance of damaging the crown of the barrel with them.
KBCraig
NES Member
The only way to prevent damage to the crown, is to never make contact with it. The Brits counter-bored many a barrel because they were "cord-worn". The Swiss had specific instructions for two-man cleaning, to avoid exactly that. Carbon fiber rods are no more damaging than the woven cords in Swiss or Brit pull-through cleaning kits.
Those were battlefield cleaning solutions stored in the buttstock, though. These days, the safe solution is to remove the bolt and use a long rode, cleaning from the breach end.
KBCraig
NES Member
The only way to prevent damage to the crown, is to never make contact with it. The Brits counter-bored many a barrel because they were "cord-worn". The Swiss had specific instructions for two-man cleaning, to avoid exactly that. Carbon fiber rods are no more damaging than the woven cords in Swiss or Brit pull-through cleaning kits.
Those were battlefield cleaning solutions stored in the buttstock, though. These days, the safe solution is to remove the bolt and use a long rod, cleaning from the breach end.
I got mine at Sears last year, I think it cost $20.00
Taipan01
NES Member
I guess everyone has their own ways so it's simply personal preference. For myself, I've built a very sturdy cleaning bench up on castors so I can move it around. I've also picked up a Tipton best gun vice for the top. That's one of the better investments as you can clean both pistols and rifles with it with out growing a third hand. I also use it for the small smithing jobs I do like repairs, scope mounting, etc.. Without getting into my black powder side (as it requires different cleaners and such), I get by on just a few items as they overlap each other. I have one of the multiple kits, I only have it as it has all the basic stuff you need for almost every caliber. I don't use the rods, just the brushes and swabs that come with it and replace as needed. It's a very economical way to go as individualy they cost a bit more. I should say at this point that I have calibers ranging from .17 up to 12 GA and most of the common ones in between. I have maybe 8 or 9 bore snakes that will do every one of them and only rifle bore snakes at that as I can use them on both rifle and pistol. For cleaning rods I have 5, all solid one piece rods. 1 pistol .22 rod, 1 shotgun rod, and 3 rifle rods. The rifle rods are .17, .22 and .270 caliber. For the rods, I have a set of Tipton jags and a set of Tipton brushes to make them caliber specific. For oddball stuff, I just go to the kit say for a 12 ga swab. That's about it for the "hardware". There are a number of other sundries you need like cleaners, picks, q-tips, patches, polish, rags and so on but I don't want to turn this posting into a book. I've posted this image before of my bench (and the reloading bench it mates to), I won't comment on it further from here but it may give you some ideas.
That's what I do. Each caliber is in it's own bin, and all the bigger stuff is kept below.
no need to spend money on a bunch of things you'll never use. I have three "complete" kits that I've taken and used only two or three things from each.
I just use a hoppes rod with whatever copper wire brush size and mop jag I need. I had to get a small adapter also for the 22 caliber, but all those things are quite cheap. A plastic-bristle brush, like a tooth brush or gun brush is also nice. you wrap a piece of cloth around the bristles and can scrub the gun. all these can be found packaged individually on the wall in most gun stores.
I use hoppes #9 solvent, break-free spray and rem-oil on everything... I'll also put a light coat of barrel grease on anything getting put away for a while. I got a pack of the rem-oil wipes and I have to say they're very convenient. A gun cleaning pad to work on is also good to prevent chemicals from leaking onto your workspace. there's always some over spray though...
I hate all the cheap mops that come in those kits, and the pre-cut packaged mops you'll find at gun stores. I just ended up tossing them from the kit, and now just cut up old tee shirts that are past their days. I have a whole stockpile of tee shirts waiting to go down the barrel in pieces, but not enough barrels!!
The small tool box is a good idea. I'm going to grab one of those to keep things together.
I just use a hoppes rod with whatever copper wire brush size and mop jag I need. I had to get a small adapter also for the 22 caliber, but all those things are quite cheap. A plastic-bristle brush, like a tooth brush or gun brush is also nice. you wrap a piece of cloth around the bristles and can scrub the gun. all these can be found packaged individually on the wall in most gun stores.
I use hoppes #9 solvent, break-free spray and rem-oil on everything... I'll also put a light coat of barrel grease on anything getting put away for a while. I got a pack of the rem-oil wipes and I have to say they're very convenient. A gun cleaning pad to work on is also good to prevent chemicals from leaking onto your workspace. there's always some over spray though...
I hate all the cheap mops that come in those kits, and the pre-cut packaged mops you'll find at gun stores. I just ended up tossing them from the kit, and now just cut up old tee shirts that are past their days. I have a whole stockpile of tee shirts waiting to go down the barrel in pieces, but not enough barrels!!
The small tool box is a good idea. I'm going to grab one of those to keep things together.
regarding brass rod vs carbon fiber... I've never worried about a brass rod damaging the barrel crown. I've never hit the crown with the rod itself to ever do that. what I do worry about is the aluminum adapter that attaches the copper brush / mop jag onto the rod. cleaning from the bore end, I was often dinging barrel crown with the rod-end of the aluminum adapter when pulling the rod back, if I had pushed the brush all the way through. I've resorted to wrapping the aluminum adapter with a layer of electrical tape. I'm OCD about my nicer guns and actually unscrew the adapter off before pulling the rod back through. I don't think the dinging has ever caused any damage, but its just been a bit concerning...
I've also snapped a brass rod in the barrel of my 22 rifle... it came apart in the middle where the two pieces of rod screw together... just me being careless and trying to push too much fabric down the barrel. this is not a bad thing though... they're brass and plastic - designed to break long before you do something stupid and damage the gun.
I've also snapped a brass rod in the barrel of my 22 rifle... it came apart in the middle where the two pieces of rod screw together... just me being careless and trying to push too much fabric down the barrel. this is not a bad thing though... they're brass and plastic - designed to break long before you do something stupid and damage the gun.
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I have a cheap plastic toolbox, with the top divided into 2 sections. It started out as my range box, but is also my cleaning kit, since I brought a lot of that stuff to the range. Now I have an old school bookbag (green with drawcord) to put ammo, earmuffs, pistols, and targets in, along with a few patches, hoppes, oil and weed whacker cord for a range cleaning kit. The box mostly stays home.
Also, what do people do for .17 caliber?
Also, what do people do for .17 caliber?
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KBCraig
NES Member
...get a .17 caliber rod and fittings?
There are several mentions above about having .17 caliber rods. I don't need one; I only have .22 and .35 rods.
KBCraig
NES Member
You might not see them in regular retail stores, but with the popularity of .17 rimfire there are plenty of cleaning options. There are even .17 caliber Boresnakes.
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Hopefully someone with more experience on the .380 stuff will chime in, but I was told that the cartridge is the same as a 9mm, only shorter, so in theory, a 9mm brush, jag, etc. should work perfectly for what you want.
that's a 9MM brush
Andreas
NES Member
That is correct.
Yup, 380 is a 9 mm short
I think in some counrtys that are across the pond they do call it the 9 mm short instead of 380, can't remember which ones though, I think Germany.
From Wikipedia:
The .380 ACP (Automatic Colt Pistol) pistol cartridge is a rimless, straight-walled pistol cartridge developed by firearms designer John Browning. The cartridge headspaces on the mouth of the case.[2] It was introduced in 1908 by Colt, and has been a popular self-defense cartridge ever since. Other names for .380 ACP include .380 Auto, 9mm Browning, 9mm Corto, 9mm Kurz, 9mm Short, and 9x17mm. It is not to be confused with .38 ACP.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.380_ACP
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