IDPA what do I need

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Looking for help! Going to start shooting IDPA this yr have a few question on what do I need , I have 4 clips and three mag holders along with conceal carry holster, can i shot jacket ammo or lead only. THANKS FOR THE HELP
 
Most places you will shoot matches allow FMJ or lead bullets. Some indoor ranges have restrictions on bullet type but then again, most action shooting is outdoors. It sounds like you have everything you need except a small POWERFUL flashlight for dark/low light stages. (shameless plug HERE )

BTW, if they have springs in them, they are magazines, not clips. Worcester and Harvard both host very good matches and all of the folks there are willing to help out beginners. We are holding an "Introduction to action pistol shooting" course at the Hopkinton sportsmen's club 3/19-20. Drop me a line if you are interested in attending.

good luck.
 
Don't worry about buying gear before you start. You'll see lots of gear that you'll want once you go to a match, and be able to ask people what gear they recommend. On top of what you listed, a good belt to hold your gear, eye & ear protection, and a shirt that will cover everything is all you'll need. (and Mike's flashlight of course) An intro class is a good idea.

New Bedford's first match is April 2, all are welcome.

http://www.rodgun-nb.org/ap/schedules/schedule.htm
 
Chuck is right. Come on in the water is fine. There are quite a few clubs in your general area (New Bedford, Harvard, Bass River just to name 3) You'll get lots of info and advice from a good group of people.
 
Looking for help! Going to start shooting IDPA this yr have a few question on what do I need , I have 4 clips and three mag holders along with conceal carry holster, can i shot jacket ammo or lead only. THANKS FOR THE HELP

You got everything you need right now.

As far as what kind of ammo you shoot, most places don't GAF so long as it makes power factor.
 
Since you are located in Carver, MA I strongly suggest you check out New Bedford Rod & Gun Club. They host monthly IDPA matches as well as hosting the Massachusetts IDPA championships. I think you have the equipment covered, just make sure you have a cover garment of some kind. I use a photographers vest that I got for less than $20 shipped off of eBay. Just make sure it is long enough to cover your holster.
 
I would recommend checking your holster to ensure it stays open enough with the gun removed to re-holster without a struggle. If it were say a soft/foam type like an Uncle Mikes IWB it would be hard to re-holster. Eye and ear protection of course. For indoor shooting I would recommend double hearing protection.
 
I wanted to get started aswell with a M&P 9, 4 mags, pouches and holster. Dont mean to hijack the thread but can I install a Apex trigger and still stay in SSP or would that bump me up into ESP? I read the IDPA rule book and it mentioned triggers but I really didn't understand what they meant.
 
I wanted to get started aswell with a M&P 9, 4 mags, pouches and holster. Dont mean to hijack the thread but can I install a Apex trigger and still stay in SSP or would that bump me up into ESP? I read the IDPA rule book and it mentioned triggers but I really didn't understand what they meant.
The allowed list of modifications for SSP:

1. Sights may be changed to another conventional notch and post type (see “sights” in glossary for further information).
2. Grips may be changed to another style or material that is similar to factory configuration (no weighted grips; see “weighted grips” in glossary for further details).
3. A slip-on grip sock and/or skateboard tape may be used.
4. Internal action work may be used to enhance trigger pull as long as safety is maintained (no visible external modifications allowed).
5. Reliability work may be done to enhance feeding and ejection.
6. Internal accuracy may be worked to include replacement of barrel with one of factory configuration and original caliber.
7. Plastic plugs may be used to fill the opening behind the magazine well.
8. Custom finishes may be applied.
The Apex kit is not the trigger. It is the sear and springs. So it involves no visible external modifications, and it is internal action work used to enhance the trigger pull.

So why do you think that would bump you into ESP?
 
I just didn't want to spend money for something that would over class me. I do alot of road racing and the classes are really cut throat for modifications you can do.
 
I just didn't want to spend money for something that would over class me. I do alot of road racing and the classes are really cut throat for modifications you can do.

Just to be clear: The APEX sear, RAM, trigger spring, sear spring, etc., are all legal for IDPA SSP.

I've heard rumors that APEX is creating their own trigger. Replacing the actual trigger would be an external modification that would bump you into ESP. If it had a trigger shoe, it would be illegal for IDPA in any division.
 
While its all interesting that that aftermarket stuff works, unless your gun has a terrible trigger, leave it stock.

There is nothing worse than dealing with an unreliable gun when you're trying to learn.

With that said, I've shot a M&P that a friend of mine in MA owns. I don't know if it has a "mass trigger" , but it was much worse than my own M&P. In that case maybe some trigger mods would be justified.

My best advice to you is to keep your gun with a minimum of mods and spend your money on ammo and range time.

What kind of roadracing did you do? I raced for years, but not since the early 90s. I used to ride a 125 and 250 GP bike. Lots of fun and much cheaper to maintain than production based stuff.

Don

p.s. RIP the old pre-NHIS Loudon track. I loved that place.
 
Maybe some trigger mods would make sense for a MA M&P you say?

I have to disagree. The MA M&P is unshootable as it comes from the factory. It has a 10+ lb trigger.

Whether you are plinking with or competing with it, the MA M&P needs a trigger job. And the Apex drop in kit is cheap.
 


I think this guy would be fine with a sloppy trigger, he's having a hard enough time making his go bang.
I wonder if he reloads and had a batch of bad primers, or if it was a striker problem.
His friend's glock made them go bang 3rd time around
 
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Whats to disagree with?

I said I didn't know and thought that it might be worth trigger parts with a MA trigger. Reread my post.

If the MA trigger is that bad, then thats good info.

If its not a MA trigger, you may want to consider the Burwell Gunsmithing DIY trigger job. The PDF is on the interwebs.

I did a mild version of this and got my M&P from about 7.5# to 4.1# with a shorter reset.

The only thing I dont like about it is there is no perceieved click when it resets so it takes a bit more practice than a glock.

Don
 
A little bit. But mostly AAMRR.

AAMRR ran at Loudon, Bridgehampton, Summit Point, Pocono and if you go back far enough Thompson, CT

Here's a pic of my dad on his 125 in the 70s at Bridgehampton.

sorry to get off subject.

DonMei.jpg
 
There is no maybe about it when it comes to a MA M&P trigger. It isn't worth trying to master the 10+ lb trigger on that gun. It needs a trigger job right out of the box, and the Apex drop-in kit is cheap. Apex even has a kit to improve the reset: http://www.apextactical.com/blog/index.php/random-apex/presenting-the-apex-reset-assist-mechanism/

I said maybe because I DID NOT KNOW. Don't pick a fight when there is no fight to be had.

I agree COMPLETELY that if the gun has a 10# trigger pull, its near impossible to use competitively.

I recently did a tune up session with a friend who is going into the FFDO (Federal Flight Deck Officer aka pilots with guns) He bought the USP they will be qualifying with, to give himself a leg up.

Oh my god. The trigger went off the scale on my electronic trigger pull gauge. (I think it maxes at 11 lbs) Terrible, just terrible.
He couldn't hit crap with it at first. Neither could I. But with time he got better. But never good.
 
Here's my thoughts on the Apex stuff. I think they are great and can really help make the M&P triggers lighter and smooth. I always suggest that newer shooters start with modest triggers. If you don't- you will never learn trigger control properly IMO. You can get great 4-5lb triggers. I think my Glock triggers are about 4.5lbs. Oh and I'm not saying this this so the new guys don't stand a chance... I often see newer guys with these slick triggers popping off rounds well before they want to with light triggers. FWIW my trigger is has the longest reset and throw at 7lbs... yeah it's a revo!
 
Maybe some trigger mods would make sense for a MA M&P you say?

I have to disagree. The MA M&P is unshootable as it comes from the factory. It has a 10+ lb trigger.

Whether you are plinking with or competing with it, the MA M&P needs a trigger job. And the Apex drop in kit is cheap.

I think the best choice is to install the "Free State" trigger spring for $2.75 and and get a feel for this trigger pull. If you aren't satisfied, then move on to a trigger job or after market parts.
 
Then can you provide me with a link to the Administrative Regulation? If its not written down it doesn't exist.

Also, whats the magic number for this reg? 10 lbs?

Its got to be documented somewhere?
 
Can you point me towards this statute. I can't find it.

940 CMR 16.00: http://www.mass.gov/?pageID=cagoter...t&f=government_Regulations_940CMR16&csid=Cago

Specifically 16.05 (2) which reads:

(2) It shall be an unfair or deceptive practice for a handgun-purveyor to transfer or offer to transfer to any customer located within the Commonwealth any handgun which does not contain a mechanism which effectively precludes an average five year old child from operating the handgun when it is ready to fire; such mechanisms shall include, but are not limited to: raising trigger resistance to at least a ten pound pull, altering the firing mechanism so that an average five year old child's hands are too small to operate the handgun, or requiring a series of multiple motions in order to fire the handgun.

We're not making stuff up. We do know what we're talking about.
 
You seem to think I was challenging you. I wanted to read it myself. Just that simple.

So 10# is the magic number.

Is the phrase that references multiple motions the part that is interpreted to require a manual safety?
Something like that may bring back the P7M8.
 
I didn't realize that. So something like a Ruger PM9C with the updated trigger of about 4.5# doesn't have to change since Its got a manual safety.

Interesting.

If I lived in MA I'd probably still buy safety-less guns and just put free state fire control parts in as required.

I've only had to shoot a handgun with a 10+ lb trigger pull once and it was just terrible.
 
I didn't realize that. So something like a Ruger PM9C with the updated trigger of about 4.5# doesn't have to change since Its got a manual safety.

Interesting.

If I lived in MA I'd probably still buy safety-less guns and just put free state fire control parts in as required.

I've only had to shoot a handgun with a 10+ lb trigger pull once and it was just terrible.

Dude, no offense, but are you living under a rock? Aren't you an attorney? Aren't you aware of the BS we've been putting up with in MA?
 
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