Pistol Advice?

Coyote33 said:
I ended up with a Ruger, which fit both my hand, my budget, and my needs.

I have a Ruger P90 which I consider to be one of the ugliest guns I've ever seen... and it is utterly reliable, and fits my hand like Excalibur fitted King Arthur's. Just a great gun.

Although I do have to admit... it's not quite as ugly as a Glock. Maybe I'll get it a Glock safemate to keep it company in between outings. [lol]
 
Coyote33 said:
I ended up with a Ruger, which fit both my hand, my budget, and my needs.

I have a Ruger P90 which I consider to be one of the ugliest guns I've ever seen... and it is utterly reliable, and fits my hand like Excalibur fitted King Arthur's. Just a great gun.

Although I do have to admit... it's not quite as ugly as a Glock. Maybe I'll get it a Glock safemate to keep it company in between outings. [lol]
 
dwarven1 said:
Coyote33 said:
I ended up with a Ruger, which fit both my hand, my budget, and my needs.

I have a Ruger P90 which I consider to be one of the ugliest guns I've ever seen... and it is utterly reliable, and fits my hand like Excalibur fitted King Arthur's. Just a great gun.

Although I do have to admit... it's not quite as ugly as a Glock. Maybe I'll get it a Glock safemate to keep it company in between outings. [lol]

[lol] [lol]
 
dwarven1 said:
Coyote33 said:
I ended up with a Ruger, which fit both my hand, my budget, and my needs.

I have a Ruger P90 which I consider to be one of the ugliest guns I've ever seen... and it is utterly reliable, and fits my hand like Excalibur fitted King Arthur's. Just a great gun.

Although I do have to admit... it's not quite as ugly as a Glock. Maybe I'll get it a Glock safemate to keep it company in between outings. [lol]

[lol] [lol]
 
dwarven1 said:
Coyote33 said:
I ended up with a Ruger, which fit both my hand, my budget, and my needs.

I have a Ruger P90 which I consider to be one of the ugliest guns I've ever seen... and it is utterly reliable, and fits my hand like Excalibur fitted King Arthur's. Just a great gun.

Although I do have to admit... it's not quite as ugly as a Glock. Maybe I'll get it a Glock safemate to keep it company in between outings. [lol]

[lol] [lol]
 
JackO:

My answers to your questions (others may differ):

Any auto needs a bit of breaking in, some more than others. Breaking in is just shooting a couple of hundred rounds, so that the friction points between moving parts mate themselves to one another. Unlike a diesel engine, there is no harm in not specifically breaking the gun in, but don't form any firm conclusions about how well it cycles until it has had several hundred rounds through it.

The only patch I ever put down the bore of a .22 is the first one to remove the manufacturer's preservative. I believe that running a rod down the bore of a .22, particularly if you have to do it from the muzzle end, does more harm than good.

On the other hand, before shooting for record (or even practice) I put a half dozen rounds into the backstop, just to loosen up the wax left in the bore from the last session.

After the bore (in non-stainless centerfires), the most important lube point in an auto is the slide rail joint. Here too much can be as bad as too little. My recommendation would be to get those rails and slots dry, put in a small drop of light gun oil (I recommend using a so-called lube syringe that you can buy in a woodworking store, such as Rocklers), and then swab that drop around with the end of an ice cream popsicle stick. (This is easier if you whittle the end down a bit and put a flat point on it.)

Lubing the return spring is unnecessary, and a light coat of lube on the guide rod may be useful as a preservative but is not necessary as a mechanical lubricant.

Particularly with a carry auto, you should periodically take the time to chase and remove the dust and lint that gets into the lockwork. And once a year or so, if you have the ability to strip the gun sufficiently to get access to them, I'd put a very small amount of light gun oil on the pins in the lockwork (hammer, trigger, sear). With Government Model pattern guns, I like to remove and clean and very lightly lube the disconnector every once in a while.

There are two schools of thought as to whether there should be any lube of the area of the barrel that contacts the bushing when the gun is in battery, particularly with those guns that use collet-type bushings. I won't enter the debate, but if you want to know, I wipe the barrel with a cloth that was clean before it had just the smallest amount of light gun oil put on it.

Doubtless I've left out some other things that should be done.
 
JackO:

My answers to your questions (others may differ):

Any auto needs a bit of breaking in, some more than others. Breaking in is just shooting a couple of hundred rounds, so that the friction points between moving parts mate themselves to one another. Unlike a diesel engine, there is no harm in not specifically breaking the gun in, but don't form any firm conclusions about how well it cycles until it has had several hundred rounds through it.

The only patch I ever put down the bore of a .22 is the first one to remove the manufacturer's preservative. I believe that running a rod down the bore of a .22, particularly if you have to do it from the muzzle end, does more harm than good.

On the other hand, before shooting for record (or even practice) I put a half dozen rounds into the backstop, just to loosen up the wax left in the bore from the last session.

After the bore (in non-stainless centerfires), the most important lube point in an auto is the slide rail joint. Here too much can be as bad as too little. My recommendation would be to get those rails and slots dry, put in a small drop of light gun oil (I recommend using a so-called lube syringe that you can buy in a woodworking store, such as Rocklers), and then swab that drop around with the end of an ice cream popsicle stick. (This is easier if you whittle the end down a bit and put a flat point on it.)

Lubing the return spring is unnecessary, and a light coat of lube on the guide rod may be useful as a preservative but is not necessary as a mechanical lubricant.

Particularly with a carry auto, you should periodically take the time to chase and remove the dust and lint that gets into the lockwork. And once a year or so, if you have the ability to strip the gun sufficiently to get access to them, I'd put a very small amount of light gun oil on the pins in the lockwork (hammer, trigger, sear). With Government Model pattern guns, I like to remove and clean and very lightly lube the disconnector every once in a while.

There are two schools of thought as to whether there should be any lube of the area of the barrel that contacts the bushing when the gun is in battery, particularly with those guns that use collet-type bushings. I won't enter the debate, but if you want to know, I wipe the barrel with a cloth that was clean before it had just the smallest amount of light gun oil put on it.

Doubtless I've left out some other things that should be done.
 
JackO:

My answers to your questions (others may differ):

Any auto needs a bit of breaking in, some more than others. Breaking in is just shooting a couple of hundred rounds, so that the friction points between moving parts mate themselves to one another. Unlike a diesel engine, there is no harm in not specifically breaking the gun in, but don't form any firm conclusions about how well it cycles until it has had several hundred rounds through it.

The only patch I ever put down the bore of a .22 is the first one to remove the manufacturer's preservative. I believe that running a rod down the bore of a .22, particularly if you have to do it from the muzzle end, does more harm than good.

On the other hand, before shooting for record (or even practice) I put a half dozen rounds into the backstop, just to loosen up the wax left in the bore from the last session.

After the bore (in non-stainless centerfires), the most important lube point in an auto is the slide rail joint. Here too much can be as bad as too little. My recommendation would be to get those rails and slots dry, put in a small drop of light gun oil (I recommend using a so-called lube syringe that you can buy in a woodworking store, such as Rocklers), and then swab that drop around with the end of an ice cream popsicle stick. (This is easier if you whittle the end down a bit and put a flat point on it.)

Lubing the return spring is unnecessary, and a light coat of lube on the guide rod may be useful as a preservative but is not necessary as a mechanical lubricant.

Particularly with a carry auto, you should periodically take the time to chase and remove the dust and lint that gets into the lockwork. And once a year or so, if you have the ability to strip the gun sufficiently to get access to them, I'd put a very small amount of light gun oil on the pins in the lockwork (hammer, trigger, sear). With Government Model pattern guns, I like to remove and clean and very lightly lube the disconnector every once in a while.

There are two schools of thought as to whether there should be any lube of the area of the barrel that contacts the bushing when the gun is in battery, particularly with those guns that use collet-type bushings. I won't enter the debate, but if you want to know, I wipe the barrel with a cloth that was clean before it had just the smallest amount of light gun oil put on it.

Doubtless I've left out some other things that should be done.
 
RKG,

Thank you very much for a post, it's very informative for me and goes right along with what I've read in some books. I really appreciate your help.

Finally, I'll have a chance tonight to start "breaking in" my new gun. It's all cleaned, lubed and ready to be put at work. Can't wait till I get to the range tonight. :)
 
RKG,

Thank you very much for a post, it's very informative for me and goes right along with what I've read in some books. I really appreciate your help.

Finally, I'll have a chance tonight to start "breaking in" my new gun. It's all cleaned, lubed and ready to be put at work. Can't wait till I get to the range tonight. :)
 
RKG,

Thank you very much for a post, it's very informative for me and goes right along with what I've read in some books. I really appreciate your help.

Finally, I'll have a chance tonight to start "breaking in" my new gun. It's all cleaned, lubed and ready to be put at work. Can't wait till I get to the range tonight. :)
 
RKG said:
...After the bore (in non-stainless centerfires), the most important lube point in an auto is the slide rail joint. Here too much can be as bad as too little. My recommendation would be to get those rails and slots dry, put in a small drop of light gun oil (I recommend using a so-called lube syringe that you can buy in a woodworking store, such as Rocklers), and then swab that drop around with the end of an ice cream popsicle stick. (This is easier if you whittle the end down a bit and put a flat point on it.)

Lubing the return spring is unnecessary, and a light coat of lube on the guide rod may be useful as a preservative but is not necessary as a mechanical lubricant....

Use a Q-Tip. You can break one end off and use that instead of the above popsicle stick (they are more plentiful this time of year also). The other end is good if there is any excess, you just blot it up with the cotton end. Be careful to not snag and leave fibers in there.

Good luck.
 
RKG said:
...After the bore (in non-stainless centerfires), the most important lube point in an auto is the slide rail joint. Here too much can be as bad as too little. My recommendation would be to get those rails and slots dry, put in a small drop of light gun oil (I recommend using a so-called lube syringe that you can buy in a woodworking store, such as Rocklers), and then swab that drop around with the end of an ice cream popsicle stick. (This is easier if you whittle the end down a bit and put a flat point on it.)

Lubing the return spring is unnecessary, and a light coat of lube on the guide rod may be useful as a preservative but is not necessary as a mechanical lubricant....

Use a Q-Tip. You can break one end off and use that instead of the above popsicle stick (they are more plentiful this time of year also). The other end is good if there is any excess, you just blot it up with the cotton end. Be careful to not snag and leave fibers in there.

Good luck.
 
RKG said:
...After the bore (in non-stainless centerfires), the most important lube point in an auto is the slide rail joint. Here too much can be as bad as too little. My recommendation would be to get those rails and slots dry, put in a small drop of light gun oil (I recommend using a so-called lube syringe that you can buy in a woodworking store, such as Rocklers), and then swab that drop around with the end of an ice cream popsicle stick. (This is easier if you whittle the end down a bit and put a flat point on it.)

Lubing the return spring is unnecessary, and a light coat of lube on the guide rod may be useful as a preservative but is not necessary as a mechanical lubricant....

Use a Q-Tip. You can break one end off and use that instead of the above popsicle stick (they are more plentiful this time of year also). The other end is good if there is any excess, you just blot it up with the cotton end. Be careful to not snag and leave fibers in there.

Good luck.
 
I find I get the perfect amount of lube in the grooves by standing my slide on end and squeezing my Miltec-1 bottle until 3/4 drop is on the end and touching it to the top of the groove. I let the slide stand there while I lube the barrel and whatever else needs to be lubed. By that time the oil has run almost the length of the slide. I put it back together and on, cycle the action to work it in.

Adam
 
I find I get the perfect amount of lube in the grooves by standing my slide on end and squeezing my Miltec-1 bottle until 3/4 drop is on the end and touching it to the top of the groove. I let the slide stand there while I lube the barrel and whatever else needs to be lubed. By that time the oil has run almost the length of the slide. I put it back together and on, cycle the action to work it in.

Adam
 
I find I get the perfect amount of lube in the grooves by standing my slide on end and squeezing my Miltec-1 bottle until 3/4 drop is on the end and touching it to the top of the groove. I let the slide stand there while I lube the barrel and whatever else needs to be lubed. By that time the oil has run almost the length of the slide. I put it back together and on, cycle the action to work it in.

Adam
 
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