Polymer80 build

Dennis in MA

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Yeah. But 9mm Glock slides are made by everyone in all sorts of varieties. With P80, you'll start seeing more of that variety appear for 10mm/45. Next the prices of said products will drop.

Getting a 10mm slide for my 21 would be sorta cool. Another caliber to buy and another std-cap mag to search for. LOL
 
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See they’re releasing single stack frames soon?
Single stack frames, and sig P320’s as well. Glockstore is awesome.

I have now cobbled together 3 10mm polymer80 pistols. (Family members need matching pistols.)
The large frames have been available for almost a year now. And damn are Glock 20/21 slides as rare as hens teeth. The best way though I loathe to admit, is get on lame wolf’s site, and back order a gen 3 Glock 20 stainless slide. And then wait. Get the internals from glockstore, or brownells. All of the small parts I have received from lame wolf have been out of spec. And that’s over 3 pistols, so it’s not just chance for a bad lot.

Of those 3 polymer80 10mm’s, one had an out of spec locking block. Took pictures, and emailed polymer80 about it. They rapidly sent a new one that fit just right.
 

Dennis in MA

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I sorta wish they gave the option for the humped backstrap. I've "grown up" on Glocks and having a 1911 angle is just odd to me. I love the aggressive texture of the P80. I love the undercut trigger guard. I just want my hump. LOL.
 
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Did you have any trouble with gaps between the slide and frame?

I have a P80 G17 build I'm just wrapping up, and there is a considerable gap between the slide and frame. I can't decide if I should try and sand down the rails a little to bring the slide in closer to the frame, or if this is a non-issue. Also the front rail seems to bend down away from the slide, making the gap even larger at the front of the gun. I'm going to try the old hair dryer trick and see if I can eliminate that curve to the front of the frame, but it's annoying.
I have exact same issue and it gets worse when I hang a light on it. It needs reinforced but not sure how to go about it. I would like to hear your results with the hair dryer or was a heat gun necessary. I wrapped the front frame to slide with nylon ties for 2 weeks to squeeze them together but after cutting them off within 3 days it is bent down again. Mine is OD green as well.
 
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bob6180

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Total build newb here. Can someone PM me some ideas of 'where to start' like will I need a drill press AND a lathe? I'm interested in building a few freedom-y things and need a push on expected costs etc..... thanks!
 

bob6180

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A lathe? What are you looking to build?

Well from the research I've seen, ar15 80% lowers require a lathe and a drill press? I could be totally wrong ... but was basically looking to start sourcing parts now and assemble this winter as I'll be stuck at home a lot with a newborn and will need projects
 

jayhitek

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Well from the research I've seen, ar15 80% lowers require a lathe and a drill press? I could be totally wrong ... but was basically looking to start sourcing parts now and assemble this winter as I'll be stuck at home a lot with a newborn and will need projects

Definitely not a lathe for an AR lower.. Maybe you're thinking of a router?
 

jayhitek

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Lol. Probably. See why I need a point in the right direction?

To be honest,
For the amount of money you're going to spend on a drill press, a router, bits, kits, and a couple of the blank lowers to practice on..
You'd probably be better off just buying a registered stripped lower for $3-400.
 
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Well from the research I've seen, ar15 80% lowers require a lathe and a drill press? I could be totally wrong ... but was basically looking to start sourcing parts now and assemble this winter as I'll be stuck at home a lot with a newborn and will need projects

YouTube will give you some options and ideas.
 

Dennis in MA

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You need some nippers and a file and sandpaper for a P80. The setup they give you really isn't efficient. The "hardest" part is removing that U of plastic in the dustcover area. You don't need a drill press but it can't hurt and a table-top drill press might run 100-200.
 

jayhitek

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You need some nippers and a file and sandpaper for a P80. The setup they give you really isn't efficient. The "hardest" part is removing that U of plastic in the dustcover area. You don't need a drill press but it can't hurt and a table-top drill press might run 100-200.

I think the guy above is asking about an AR lower..
 

amm5061

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You need some nippers and a file and sandpaper for a P80. The setup they give you really isn't efficient. The "hardest" part is removing that U of plastic in the dustcover area. You don't need a drill press but it can't hurt and a table-top drill press might run 100-200.

A dremel and some sandpaper does the whole thing just fine.
 
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A dremel and some sandpaper does the whole thing just fine.
I can agree with this on the pistol kits. A dremel with a cutoff wheel does the raised areas easily. Then I'd slot the stupid U-channel area. Once roughed, a sanding drum is all required. If you are going for "extra pretty" sandpaper wrapped around a dowel rod does that area nicely. I do have a friend who did it all with a nail clipper set. (he's a wild man, and didn't want to wake up the wife.)
 

Jacks07

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If anyone is looking for some cheap barrels combat armory is doing a flash sale $30 off all in stock barrels and free shipping.
 

ReluctantDecoy

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Figured instead of starting a new thread, I'd post my take here. Just shot 150 rds through my first P80 G19 build. Cheapest full kit they sell. Used hand tools and a vice for the entire build. Literally...hand crank drill. Just wanted to see if I could. Anyway, tolerances aren't great with the factory rails when measured with a caliper. Require a bit of polishing, as they are rough out of the box. Made the slide sound like a rusty pair of scissors until polishing. That being said, 150 rounds through it with no malfunctions. U notch prebans, square notch prebans, and ETS 10 rd clear mags, all while using brass 115, 124, 148 flat noise, and steel 115. Ate everything and gun still feels solid. Old U notches require a good "slap" home to allow initial feeding, but do work. Probably won't with a flared aftermarket mag well though. Trigger is actually pretty nice after break in, and came with two shoes (flat and curved). The wall was initially incredibly stiff. Not heavy, just a weird hard break, but that went away after a couple mags. And yes, I have the trigger spring oriented the right way (before someone asks).

That being said, be careful with stippling attempts if that's something you're interested in. This is NOT the same polymer Glock uses and melts/warps/burns rather easily under that type of heat.
 

Jacks07

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Not bad been looking for one for my 17L hope they got one

Mail call last night, got my 19 Chamaeleon w/thread protector and 17 black threaded no protector (getting comp). Won’t have chance to test them for week or two. Quality in hand looks nice but really dying to test function.
 
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