- might as well not spend the $$ on the jig.
For the 3rd time, WE ALREADY OWN THE JIGS. Maybe a program in remedial reading or English comprehension is in order.
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- might as well not spend the $$ on the jig.
For the 3rd time, WE ALREADY OWN THE JIGS. Maybe a program in remedial reading or English comprehension is in order.
Still a little time left to get in on the 80% receiver group buy.
Forged 7075 T6 black anodized, safe/fire markings stamped. $45
http://www.gunco.net/forums/262-ar1...-ar15-80-receiver-gb-check-poll-question.html
Still a little time left to get in on the 80% receiver group buy.
Forged 7075 T6 black anodized, safe/fire markings stamped. $45
http://www.gunco.net/forums/262-ar1...-ar15-80-receiver-gb-check-poll-question.html
Wow!!
Great price!!
FYI Pre-anodized 80% lowers will dull an End mill by the second lower.
Better to get them in the raw and Cerakote after machining.
Malodave
People don't believe us when we say that... Until they try to machine the second, or third, hard anodized lower on that same bit.
Remember, folks, anodizing (especially type III hard anodizing) is a hard aluminum oxide layer. The same material used to grind/sharpen drill bits, and end mills, is on the lower. Drill bits, for the side holes, will also be dulled far sooner.
So what's the easiest option out there for protecting an unanodized, freshly milled 80%? Are folks anodizing them themselves? Cerakote? Norrells?
People don't believe us when we say that... Until they try to machine the second, or third, hard anodized lower on that same bit.
FYI Pre-anodized 80% lowers will dull an End mill by the second lower.
Better to get them in the raw and Cerakote after machining.
Malodave
Try using real cutting oil instead of using wd40 or whatever crap it was that you were using, I forget now. I have finished way more than that using the same end mills.
+1 I've never noticed any major degradation on my tools when cutting on type III anodized lowers.
At work we chop up type II stuff all the time with not problems too.
Bingo!!!