Reloading for a Garand

mannydog

mannydog

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My son just got a Garand from CMP. I don’t know the specifics about his particular rifle but I’m looking for any input, advice, preferred bullet profile-weight, powder preferences, and recommendations for re-loading for a Garand. He’s not a match shooter, shooting for personal gratification and enjoyment.

I just de-greased a new set of dies and I’ve got Varget, BLC-2, H3335, AA2460, and IMR3031 on hand but will chase down any other propellants better suited for this.

Any input is appreciated. Thank you.

Mannydog.
 
You can email all the powder companies and they will give you DATA specific to M1 garand.

here are a few articles http://www.loaddata.com/articles/PDF/Reloading Semiauto Rifles.pdf

here http://home.comcast.net/~jlemons01/ReloadingForTheM1Rifle_JohnRClarke.pdf I found a lot of this data to be very stout. In my experience I have found powder charges to function the action to be plenty good enough. the difference in accuracy was not great enough for me to use a larger powder charge


If your looking to load just plinking fodder the 150gn fmjbt from hornady are plenty good enough. Although if you look you will find better "match" bullets for only pennies more..... back a few years when pulled where 1/3 the cost of new bullets it was a ok option also

also http://masterpostemple.bravepages.com/M1load.htm
 
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almost all proper burn rate powders and. bullets from 125-200 grains will work well..... although it reduces the garand to a bolt action I know one member who really likes shooting H4895 http://www.imrpowder.com/PDF/Youth%20Loads.pdf reduced loads per manufactures instructions. helps him cope with re coil and arthritis ....
 
btw, I found that the COL made a BIG difference in the Garand. Load table from Hodgdon said 3.230" COL which is what I loaded them to, but HXP ammo is about 3.3 - 3.31x". When I loaded them to 3.230 they cycled the action too hard, when I moved them out to the 3.3-3.31x" range, they cycled perfectly.
 
I'll be reloading 30-06 hopefully tomorrow. I just got 500 Hornady 150 gr bullets and 500 Hornady 168 gr match bullets for $230 shipped. Also have 4 pounds of IMR 4064. Going to start with the minimum charges and see how they shoot.

Figures I just got an email from a vendor who has Nosler CC match 168 gr bullets on sale for $223 per 1000. Not sure what the shipping charge is though. I know mac said he likes how these bullets shoot. I'm sure the Hornady 168s will shoot fine though.
 
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andrew1220 said:
I'll be reloading 30-06 hopefully tomorrow. I just got 500 Hornady 150 gr bullets and 500 Hornady 168 gr match bullets for $230 shipped. Also have 4 pounds of IMR 4064. Going to start with the minimum charges and see how they shoot.


Figures I just got an email from a vendor who has Nosler CC match 168 gr bullets on sale for $223 per 1000. Not sure what the shipping charge is though. I know mac said he likes how these bullets shoot. I'm sure the Hornady 168s will shoot fine though.
Click to expand...

for my rifles there is not much difference between the better bullets Hornady match, Nosler CCs or match kings 150s - 168s. they will all deliver in the 2moa ish area out of the service grades. My best rifle 1955 HRA with new stock will shoot 8 shot groups from the led sled +- 2moa regularly .......So I just buy the cheapest "match" bullet offer I can find.

not knocking the M1 but for a rifle destined to shoot ammo that was good enough for gi @ 4moa any service grade rifle and shooter holding the black of a SR1 is doing well.....anything better well is better! good luck.

Andrew maybe you can do a little range test.
8 shots Greek vs 150s vs 168s then post results.
 
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Oh aright. Good to know.

I had a blast today with the Garand and the M1 carbine (which I'll post some pics and a quick review tomorrow). I finally decided to bring my 10" AR550 steel plate today to see how it holds up to 30-06. No significant dimples and wow was it fun hearing the loud ring and smack against the steel.

Made some adjustments to the rear sight and hit the steel consistently. 45/48 shots I hit the steel at 120 yards. Not record breaking by any means but I'm real pleased how my Garand shoots with the hxp.

View attachment 115419
 
mac1911 said:
for my rifles there is not much difference between the better bullets Hornady match, Nosler CCs or match kings 150s - 168s. they will all deliver in the 2moa ish area out of the service grades. My best rifle 1955 HRA with new stock will shoot 8 shot groups from the led sled +- 2moa regularly .......So I just buy the cheapest "match" bullet offer I can find.

not knocking the M1 but for a rifle destined to shoot ammo that was good enough for gi @ 4moa any service grade rifle and shooter holding the black of a SR1 is doing well.....anything better well is better! good luck.

Andrew maybe you can do a little range test.
8 shots Greek vs 150s vs 168s then post results.
Click to expand...

I'd be happy to so that once I make some loads. I have to ease up on shooting the hxp. Almost done with 1 can in 2 weeks lol. But that's why I'm diung to reload obviously.
 
jpm said:
btw, I found that the COL made a BIG difference in the Garand. Load table from Hodgdon said 3.230" COL which is what I loaded them to, but HXP ammo is about 3.3 - 3.31x". When I loaded them to 3.230 they cycled the action too hard, when I moved them out to the 3.3-3.31x" range, they cycled perfectly.
Click to expand...

I'll keep this in mind when I load then. But I'll see what my lyman manual says for COL.
 
andrew1220 said:
Oh aright. Good to know.

I had a blast today with the Garand and the M1 carbine (which I'll post some pics and a quick review tomorrow). I finally decided to bring my 10" AR550 steel plate today to see how it holds up to 30-06. No significant dimples and wow was it fun hearing the loud ring and smack against the steel.

Made some adjustments to the rear sight and hit the steel consistently. 45/48 shots I hit the steel at 120 yards. Not record breaking by any means but I'm real pleased how my Garand shoots with the hxp.

View attachment 115419
Click to expand...

I will note not all my garands shot well out of the box......the infamous LMR barrel didnt help this rifle any.... http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...cy-Improvement-of-HRA-with-spring-replacement
if I didnt already have some experience cmp M1s this rifle would have been a disappointment..... felt and knew I should be able to improve it.....BUT with out the work on the rifle no ammo would have helped right from the box so to speak.
 
andrew1220 said:
I'll keep this in mind when I load then. But I'll see what my lyman manual says for COL.
Click to expand...
if the bullet profile allows it load to max length to fit magazine/well im at 3.299 ish
The hornady 150fmj are short and i seat those to hornady specs.
 
The Hornady 7th Edition has a section devoted to M1 Garand specific loads. Also, a brief review of this thread didn't mention a schuster gas plug. Essentially, its a part that replaces the gas plug and has various settings on it to protect the gas system/op-rod, so you can run any 30-06 you want. I've used them with good results, but I reload all my own ammo so no reason I cant load specific to the M1 vs regular 30-06. If your interested in brass let me know, I might have a few bags laying around of once fired M2 ball/HXP
 
Stape said:
The Hornady 7th Edition has a section devoted to M1 Garand specific loads. Also, a brief review of this thread didn't mention a schuster gas plug. Essentially, its a part that replaces the gas plug and has various settings on it to protect the gas system/op-rod, so you can run any 30-06 you want. I've used them with good results, but I reload all my own ammo so no reason I cant load specific to the M1 vs regular 30-06. If your interested in brass let me know, I might have a few bags laying around of once fired M2 ball/HXP
Click to expand...

I might be interested in grabbing that hxp brass from ya. Don't need thousands but a 200-300 pieces wouldn't hurt. I'm running out of room in my ammo/reloading cabinet for storing all of my components. I might just need to keep the brass in bags in my reloading room aka my basement not locked in the cabinet.
 
a brief review of this thread didn't mention a schuster gas plug
I think there is little mention as you said because.... We are reloading for the Garand( assume your reloading proper burn rate powder and loads with in the limits of the M1) so there is no real need for the adjustable/regulating gas plugs. Although I doubt many local matches will call you out on it. The "commercial" gas plugs are not legal for the as issued JCG matches.
 
I made my first 24 rounds of 30-06 yesterday afternoon but wasn't able to get to the range as I had other things come up yesterday[angry]
Wow this is a lot more involved than reloading pistol ammo obviously.

I started by laying out the brass standing up then gave them a good spray on all sides with Hornady One Shot case lube. Let them dry for about 5 minutes then proceeded to size/deprime.

Followed by trimming some of the cases, as some were 2.485" - 2.490" (max being 2.494"). But I had a few that ranged from 2.495" - 2.500". I bought the cheapest trimmer and debur/chamfer tools I could get since I wasn't sure how much rifle reloading I plan on doing yet. I went with the Lee cutter and lock stud, shell holder, and chamfer tool. Cost me $28 and works perfectly! I recently bought a DeWalt drill so I just threw in the shell holder and brass case, then inserted the cutter tool and trimmed the cases down to 2.485". Then used the chamfer tool to remove the burrs inside and lightly smooth the outside edges by spinning the case in the drill and lightly pressing down with the chamfer tool. Then wiped down all the cases with a shop rag. The rag seemed to wipe the lube off fine and I didn't think I needed to tumble the brass in the media. Hornady says their case lube isn't petroluem based so no need to worry about contaminating the powder?

Big props to 'jpm' for letting me know about the Lee Perfect Powder Measure I got for about $24 shipped on amazon. I did a lot of research and it was quite apparent that most powder measures (including my hornady measure) don't throw the stick powders like IMR-4064 very well. So I got the lee measure dialed in and it was within +/- 0.2 gr every throw! Some throws were exactly the same as the last throw which was great

My lyman manual had the minimum charge for IMR-4064 being 48.0 grains and the max being 53.0 grains. So knowing the problems with hotter loads/heavier bullets in the Garand I figured I'd start just above the starting load.

Load:
~48.5 gr (+/-0.2 gr) of IMR-4064
3.30" COL
150 gr Hornady FMJ BT
HXP brass

View attachment 115528View attachment 115529

The only concern/question I had was in regards to headspace. I bought the Lyman 30-06 case length/headspace gauge and all my rounds except 1 seemed to be just BARELY above the max headspace reading as noted on the gauge. I attached some photos showing the difference between the round that was flush with the gauge and one that was just barely sticking up from the gauge. Is this safe to fire? What is causing just 1 out of the 24 rounds/cases to not be flush? I lubed them well and sized them all the same way, just that particular piece of brass?

I had no issues seating the primers into the crimped primer pockets as well, went in as easy as my small primers in 9mm/357 magnum.

Also I went for the longer COL (compared to what is stated in my lyman manual) as the HXP ammo I measured to be ~3.323". The manual says to have COL of 3.230" which seemed short to me.

Using the Lee 3 die set, I applied a light crimp using the FCD. The instructions say to screw the die in until it touches the shell plate. I did that and then screwed it in another 1/4 turn or so. I could see the collets (or whatever they're called) in the FCD compress (just a bit, not completely closed) on the upstroke as it crimped the case. Is there a need to apply a heavy crimp to these cases?

View attachment 115531View attachment 115530
 
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Wasn't aware he was loading for a match rifle, I must have missed that. I've seen them run in situations in which the owner didn't reload, M2 ball wasn't available and Hornady M1 Garand ammo was pretty pricey, so they used the plug so that he could run the occassional box of whatever ammo through the rifle without the op-rod getting beat up.
 
I love that tool, makes processing and prepping brass a pretty quick deal. That, and its big enough that you can get a comfortable grip on it so extended sessions of case work doesn't start cramping up your hands, plus the primer pocket reamers come in handy when you come across a crimped primer pocket. . For the price and the quality/versatility/uses, it's hard to beat.
 
Stape said:
I love that tool, makes processing and prepping brass a pretty quick deal. That, and its big enough that you can get a comfortable grip on it so extended sessions of case work doesn't start cramping up your hands, plus the primer pocket reamers come in handy when you come across a crimped primer pocket. . For the price and the quality/versatility/uses, it's hard to beat.
Click to expand...

Ya the reviews were really good and it has multiple tools in one and easy to grip etc.? Sold lol.
 
andrew1220 said:
I made my first 24 rounds of 30-06 yesterday afternoon but wasn't able to get to the range as I had other things come up yesterday[angry]
Wow this is a lot more involved than reloading pistol ammo obviously.

I started by laying out the brass standing up then gave them a good spray on all sides with Hornady One Shot case lube. Let them dry for about 5 minutes then proceeded to size/deprime.

Followed by trimming some of the cases, as some were 2.485" - 2.490" (max being 2.494"). But I had a few that ranged from 2.495" - 2.500". I bought the cheapest trimmer and debur/chamfer tools I could get since I wasn't sure how much rifle reloading I plan on doing yet. I went with the Lee cutter and lock stud, shell holder, and chamfer tool. Cost me $28 and works perfectly! I recently bought a DeWalt drill so I just threw in the shell holder and brass case, then inserted the cutter tool and trimmed the cases down to 2.485". Then used the chamfer tool to remove the burrs inside and lightly smooth the outside edges by spinning the case in the drill and lightly pressing down with the chamfer tool. Then wiped down all the cases with a shop rag. The rag seemed to wipe the lube off fine and I didn't think I needed to tumble the brass in the media. Hornady says their case lube isn't petroluem based so no need to worry about contaminating the powder?

Big props to 'jpm' for letting me know about the Lee Perfect Powder Measure I got for about $24 shipped on amazon. I did a lot of research and it was quite apparent that most powder measures (including my hornady measure) don't throw the stick powders like IMR-4064 very well. So I got the lee measure dialed in and it was within +/- 0.2 gr every throw! Some throws were exactly the same as the last throw which was great

My lyman manual had the minimum charge for IMR-4064 being 48.0 grains and the max being 53.0 grains. So knowing the problems with hotter loads/heavier bullets in the Garand I figured I'd start just above the starting load.

Load:
~48.5 gr (+/-0.2 gr) of IMR-4064
3.30" COL
150 gr Hornady FMJ BT
HXP brass

View attachment 115528View attachment 115529

The only concern/question I had was in regards to headspace. I bought the Lyman 30-06 case length/headspace gauge and all my rounds except 1 seemed to be just BARELY above the max headspace reading as noted on the gauge. I attached some photos showing the difference between the round that was flush with the gauge and one that was just barely sticking up from the gauge. Is this safe to fire? What is causing just 1 out of the 24 rounds/cases to not be flush? I lubed them well and sized them all the same way, just that particular piece of brass?

I had no issues seating the primers into the crimped primer pockets as well, went in as easy as my small primers in 9mm/357 magnum.

Also I went for the longer COL (compared to what is stated in my lyman manual) as the HXP ammo I measured to be ~3.323". The manual says to have COL of 3.230" which seemed short to me.

Using the Lee 3 die set, I applied a light crimp using the FCD. The instructions say to screw the die in until it touches the shell plate. I did that and then screwed it in another 1/4 turn or so. I could see the collets (or whatever they're called) in the FCD compress (just a bit, not completely closed) on the upstroke as it crimped the case. Is there a need to apply a heavy crimp to these cases?

View attachment 115531View attachment 115530
Click to expand...

No need to crimp at all. 48 grains of IMR 4064 with the 150s should be fine although I bet your rifle would function fine even a bit lighter....
I dont get to hung up on case length as long as its below max. You might find yourself with a few resized cases that just dont "size" and also watch you complete your press stroke. Also sometimes if your expander really drags when coming out of the case you can move the shoulder.

Shoot me a email I will give you a scan oh M1 specific data from the book.

I seat those hornady 150fmj just to the cannelure they shoot/function fine. Theres not a heck of a lot of surface area below the cannelure.

one note on your head space guage. The M1 extractor can really beat up the case rim. If you flip case around and try to insert it bet the rim wont fit.
 
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mac1911 said:
No need to crimp at all. 48 grains of IMR 4064 with the 150s should be fine although I bet your rifle would function fine even a bit lighter....
I dont get to hung up on case length as long as its below max. You might find yourself with a few resized cases that just dont "size" and also watch you complete your press stroke. Also sometimes if your expander really drags when coming out of the case you can move the shoulder.

Shoot me a email I will give you a scan oh M1 specific data from the book.

I seat those hornady 150fmj just to the cannelure they shoot/function fine. Theres not a heck of a lot of surface area below the cannelure.
Click to expand...

Yeah I wasn't sure about needing to crimp so I just applied a very light crimp. I'll make sure not to crimp the other loads I make this week.

So lighter than the starting charge would work fine too huh? I'll have to take a look at the data you send me (just emailed ya).

Max case length I would assume to be ~3.32? As the hxp is that length and the lyman manual said 3.230".

I did notice some cases were a little harder than others on the downstroke after resizing. I figured I'd try the longer case length as I noticed jpm said his Garand ejected the brass much harder when he seated them to a shorter length but noticed it functioned flawlessly after increasing the COL. You think I'll be fine with those bullets seated at that depth I have them now?
 
andrew1220 said:
Yeah I wasn't sure about needing to crimp so I just applied a very light crimp. I'll make sure not to crimp the other loads I make this week.

So lighter than the starting charge would work fine too huh? I'll have to take a look at the data you send me (just emailed ya).

Max case length I would assume to be ~3.32? As the hxp is that length and the lyman manual said 3.230".

I did notice some cases were a little harder than others on the downstroke after resizing. I figured I'd try the longer case length as I noticed jpm said his Garand ejected the brass much harder when he seated them to a shorter length but noticed it functioned flawlessly after increasing the COL. You think I'll be fine with those bullets seated at that depth I have them now?
Click to expand...

old timer told me this and I don't know how much truth it has to it. "seat so at least the depth inside the neck is same as the Cal". so if you have .30 of the bullet inside the neck it should be fine. I don't see how those fmjs seated to hornady specs would cause a hard cycle unless compressing a powder charge.
 
mac1911 said:
old timer told me this and I don't know how much truth it has to it. "seat so at least the depth inside the neck is same as the Cal". so if you have .30 of the bullet inside the neck it should be fine. I don't see how those fmjs seated to hornady specs would cause a hard cycle unless compressing a powder charge.
Click to expand...

Okay. Well I'll try them out this weekend and see how they shoot. I'll make some other loads seated to the cannelure also. Then I need to try some loads with the 168 gr match bullets.
 
andrew1220 said:
Okay. Well I'll try them out this weekend and see how they shoot. I'll make some other loads seated to the cannelure also. Then I need to try some loads with the 168 gr match bullets.
Click to expand...
for the M1 I just load shy of max to eliminate any possibility of tips hanging up during reloads in the rapid fire stages....
 

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