Removing a pinned muzzle device?

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Looking at throwing my last AR lower together (cheap) so I picked up this barrel assy for a great price. It's a VooDoo barrel with Fortis gas block and a Primary Weapons Systems FSC muzzle brake. Problem is the brake is "blind pinned" and it has a BCM barrel nut on it for a KMR hand guard. I like the big quad rails and not really a fan of the key mod rails, not to mention the BCM hand guard is pretty pricey. No other hand guard that I know of uses this same barrel nut so the question is do I attempt to ruin a nice $100 muzzle device and possibly the barrel too? Or bite the bullet and buy a KMR hand guard for a lot more than what I paid for the complete barrel set up.
If you look at the pictures you can see where the pin was welded over. Not really sure how centered it is however, I really don't think it should be that bad to remove. A friend with extensive metal work experience says its pretty hard to drill through weld. I'm thinking start with a center punch and a small carbide drill bit in a drill press and step up on the bits.
I know the right thing to do is bring it to a machine shop or gunsmith but they're expensive and wont guarantee they can save the brake or even the barrel threads.
Any advice or suggestions?
 
I would take a cone shaped dremel bit and grind down the center a little bit to see what that void is looking like a little deeper. I'm betting the void formed on the edge of the pin. The weld piled up instead of flowing down around the pin. If there is a decent void around the pin it may be pretty easy to get out. If you can get the pin out I would then try working the brake back and forth a little until the weld separates from the threads. You may be able to back it off without trying to drill out all the weld. Which would give you a better chance of not ruining the threads.

I'm not sure what a GS will charge to do it but, if it's cheaper to pay the shipping back and forth, you're welcome to send it to me and I'll see about getting it off for you. I can't offer any guarantees either, but I'm pretty confident I can get it off without ruining anything. PM me if you want my address.

-Chad
 
Someone drilled a big hole to remove the previous pin. The cost to remove the FSC, new rail, and pin it (assuming th FSC can be reused) will cost more than a 13" KMR. There's a rail from a company called Bootleg that uses the KMR barrel nut. Still not a quad rail though.

https://bootleginc.com/product/bootleg-handguard/

Yea it is a huge hole/weld. I don't think it was ever pinned before. The kid I got it from said be bought all the parts new and brought to a gunsmith.
Truth be told I will never, ever pin a MD. Don't care what the BS law states. Its a ridiculous joke! Besides I havent run into the pin checking police yet.
I do think that's a better looking rail than the BCM. I actually have a spare YHM Quad rail I would love to use on this.
Thanks
 
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Most likely the pin is not too deep into the barrel. Try this: put a lever into the end of the muzzle device and turn it a little clockwise and then a little counter clockwise, you will have to use a little mussel to get it to start to move, the weld will most likely start to break. Once it starts to move start rocking to clockwise and counterclockwise back and forth. There is a good chance that the pin will back out enough to unscrew the MD.
 
Most likely the pin is not too deep into the barrel. Try this: put a lever into the end of the muzzle device and turn it a little clockwise and then a little counter clockwise, you will have to use a little mussel to get it to start to move, the weld will most likely start to break. Once it starts to move start rocking to clockwise and counterclockwise back and forth. There is a good chance that the pin will back out enough to unscrew the MD.
Thought about trying that. I'll give it a shot as soon as I get a chance.
Thanks
 
I would take a cone shaped dremel bit and grind down the center a little bit to see what that void is looking like a little deeper. I'm betting the void formed on the edge of the pin. The weld piled up instead of flowing down around the pin. If there is a decent void around the pin it may be pretty easy to get out. If you can get the pin out I would then try working the brake back and forth a little until the weld separates from the threads. You may be able to back it off without trying to drill out all the weld. Which would give you a better chance of not ruining the threads.

I'm not sure what a GS will charge to do it but, if it's cheaper to pay the shipping back and forth, you're welcome to send it to me and I'll see about getting it off for you. I can't offer any guarantees either, but I'm pretty confident I can get it off without ruining anything. PM me if you want my address.

-Chad
Thanks Chad, I appreciate it. I'll be tied up the next few days then I'll take a closer look at it. I may take you up on your offer.
 
That's already beat up a little...careful drilling or grinding will expose the pin enough for removal. Give it a whirl.
 
I have a busy 4 or 5 days coming up. As soon as I get a chance I'll run a small dremel disc over it back & fourth till I can see the complete pin. Once I can make out the pin ill drill it and rock the comp back and fourth. If I feel theres going to be issues I'll fill the hole with epoxy and get the BCM handguard.
Thanks for the tips and suggestions. I'll keep you posted on the results.
 
LOL, just bought the barrel set up. Got it for a great price and want to tinker with it. Not really interested in selling it right now.

Ah missed the first sentence lol. My bad, I sent you a PM but be careful, go slow and take your time. Those can be tricky to get out smoothly
 
Pretty easy job,heat up the weld to soften it then rock the brake back and forth to "break" the weld. Then drill with a cobalt bit. Small tools/punches etc to get the pin out once drilled. Then I'd run a die over the threads to clean them up
 
I would cut the last 4 inches of the barrel off then mill an opening opposite the pin. Through the opening, use a thermal lance to burn through the barrel and the pin but not through the external weld. This will facilitate the unthreading of the muzzle devise.
 


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