The Moisin Nagant 44 Club

[Weerd Beard]

Am I correct in thinking that a 91/30 (which, I'm told, has less recoil than the M44) still has more recoil than a Garand?

Yeah, doesn't weigh quite as much as the garand, and is bolt action, so a little more recoil (as the rounds are pretty darn close in power)

But they're much gentler than the M44

 

[Rusty Barrels]

This is my only Mil Surp and I have nowhere near the scientific understanding that most of you guys have. When I clean this beast I use WAY more patches than on any other gun yet no matter how clean it gets the patches always come out kind of bluish-green (after they've been black a few times!). Is this normal? I use Hoppe's #9. Isn't that stuff supposed to work well on the residue of corrosive ammo?

 

[Pilgrim]

the bluish green means there is still copper in the bore. Get a good cleaner that removes copper.

 

[Rusty Barrels]

the bluish green means there is still copper in the bore. Get a good cleaner that removes copper.

Wow! Thanks for clearing that up! I was under the impression that Hoppe's #9 takes care of copper, lead, and powder residue. It must be something about this barrell because I don't have the same problem with any of my newer guns.

 

[kevin9]

Wow! Thanks for clearing that up! I was under the impression that Hoppe's #9 takes care of copper, lead, and powder residue. It must be something about this barrell because I don't have the same problem with any of my newer guns.

It is my understanding that #9 works on copper, just not as quickly or as aggressively as a cleaner specifically formulated for copper fouling. I would suggest getting a cleaner specifically for copper, maybe the Hoppe's Bench Rest Copper Solvent, get all the copper out, then hopefully the #9 will be able to keep up.

If you're still getting heavy copper fouling then maybe you've got a rough bore. I've read that using something like JB Paste might help smooth the bore out over time, but not ever having used it I don't know this for a fact. YMMV and good luck

 

[vellnueve]

#9 isn't that great on corrosive ammo residue either. Run some ammonia through first.

 

[dwarven1]

I don't know, specifically, how it does on corrosive ammo residue or copper, but I have to say that I think that Shooter's Choice does a much better job than Hoppes 9, Breakfree, MPro7 OR Blue Wonder. Simply put, Shooter's Choice seems to scrub crap out of the bore that all the others don't. I'm not the type to gush over a product unless it really WORKS, and for me, at least, SC does the best job.

Although from the smell, I think that Blue Wonder must have a lot of ammonia in it - might work well on the corrosive stuff.

 

[Rusty Barrels]

Thanks for the advice, guys! My biggest problem seems to be finding these products. The gun stores around here don't stock much in the way of accessories. I suppose I oughtta find a web site to stock up on supplies... at least I know I can get my hands on ammonia, a funnel, and some tubing without bending over for shipping charges!

 

[dwarven1]

K&R in Hudson, MA stocks Shooter's Choice. Don't know where to get MPro7 any more except at Four Seasons.

 

[vellnueve]

Collectors has M7Pro.

 

[Garys]

I'm just wondering. I have a M38 and a 91/59. No bayonets on them, but can I be an associate member?

Gary

 

[JonJ]

I'm just wondering. I have a M38 and a 91/59. No bayonets on them, but can I be an associate member?

Gary

I suppose but you better get used to people looking down their nose at ya.

 

[Garys]

I suppose but you better get used to people looking down their nose at ya.

That depends on the size of their nose, I guess!

Gary

 

[vellnueve]

No. But give me both of your carbines and I will give you an M44 so you can join.

 

[Garys]

No. But give me both of your carbines and I will give you an M44 so you can join.

Can I get back to you on that?

On second thought, I think I'll just duct tape a kitchen knife to mine.

Gary

 

[Twigg]

Can I get back to you on that?

On second thought, I think I'll just duct tape a kitchen knife to mine.

Gary

As long as it's a really, really big knife...

 

[Garys]

As long as it's a really, really big knife...

I've seen the M44 bayonet. Not to sound Kerryish, but I was contemplating buying one before I didn't buy one. The decision was based on what seemed to be the relative rarity of the M38 and the 91/59.

Anyway, I'm happy with both purchases, despite not having a long pointy thing on the end of the barrel.

And I'll be the fireball is just as impressive!

Gary

 

[vellnueve]

I'm planning to buy a M38 next week and then either a 91/59 or a hex receiver 91/30 next.

 

[SKS Ray]

The 91/59s are cut down 91/30s done by Russia and reworked with sights, stocks, etc.
They're a unique rifle because its literally the last Mosin Nagant produced. Since the barrel is heavier on the 91/59, most will say accuracy is better than an M38. I can't notice a difference in the 2 as far as accuracy goes myself.
All I know is I can finally say what I've heard old timers say time and time again. I'm glad a got a certain rifle before the price increase. My M38 wound up costing me $39.99 years back during a Christmas sale. I only wish I had bought more of them, and more 91/59s when the import stamp was tiny.

 

[Joe R.]

Yea, burns me too. I paid $184 + tax for the M39 I bought almost 2 years ago. I remember when Four Seasons first had them for just around $100 or so and kicked myself for not getting one! Now I just live with what price I get on the rifles.

I'm up to 9 Mosins now - 1 M44, 1 M91, and the rest are 91/30's with the latest one picked up a 1938 Tula MO marked for $129. Damn disease these things are...

I use Sweets 7.62 to get rid of the corrosive residue. I follow the directions and scrub the bolt down with it then use Gun Scrubber to neutrilize the Sweets and then clean with Hoppe's Bore Gel. Just as a side note - if you're using a brass jag ( the Dewey rods I use have brass jags ), you might get green even after going thru good with the patches. Green is copper but could also be brass residue too.

Joe R.

 

[Windstar]

#9 isn't that great on corrosive ammo residue either. Run some ammonia through first.

Good day all. My understanding of the cleaning process for corrosive ammo is this..... The ammo itself is not corrosive. The primers are. They deposit hydroscopic salts which left untreated will attract moisture and thereby rust the untreated barrel. Any cleaner that contains water as an ingredient will dissolve the salts and make further cleanup easier and more effective.

I run a couple of patches soaked with a 50/50 water and ammonia mix after shooting and then a dry patch (too much ammonia is not good for a barrel or the wood finish) and then clean as normal at home. Never a problem.

The Enfield guys here know that boiling water was all that was used to clean rifle barrels after firing in the good old days. They even had a special funnel to insert into the barrel. Boiling water evaporates almost immediately from the metal.

 

[vellnueve]

I run windex through followed by a regular gun cleaner and it has worked well so far.