What did you do in the reloading room recently?

daekken said:
I think it also depends on whether they know/realize what it is.

I had an M1 held in Wilmington, the guy didn't know what it was, he was just like "wow, this box is big and heavy, is it like curtain rods or something?" The HXP stuff was in Woburn. The first time it was fine, the second time I got a stern talking to but thought it was BS, the third time they said they would immediately return it to sender if I did it again and that even though the website allows it, it's "forbidden" or something similar. A nice dressing down by three employees in a store with several people in it.
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"A nice dressing down by three employees in a store with several people in it."
Thats shitty. I would have made some calls and complained. Sounds like employees making up the rules as they go.

"I had an M1 held in Wilmington, the guy didn't know what it was, he was just like "wow, this box is big and heavy, is it like curtain rods or something?""
Ive had the same experience but with USPS. Lady behind the counter passing me a C&R rifle, "Geez this is kinda heavy" and then the poor dude lugging boxes of projectiles up the driveway "whats in here bullets?" Yep, lol. Also the HXP comes in a relatively small box but has some weight to it, as you know. Two different times in Fedex Peabody the same kid almost dropped the box sliding it off the shelf. "Damn, what the hell?" No one ever gave me any crap though.

Over all Ive been lucky. Havent run into any people who had problems with guns yet. If anything Ive been surprised a couple of times. Mailman's brother handloads and grandmotherly looking notary at the bank used to shoot on the rifle team when she was younger. UPS guy knows what he's delivering and has no problem with it, we've talked guns before for a minute or two although he not a gun owner himself. Guys at the Fedex terminals that Ive picked up at, like I said never have batted an eye at me. I know for sure the last time there was no box inside a box type of deal in the way it was shipped. Just said Winchester Arms on the front. I'd have to assume a grown man would have at least heard the name but maybe not.
 
Cast about 10 pounds of 130 grain 9mm. Coated and sized
Cast another 10+ pounds of 358156 sized and lubed with white label 2500+
Cast some tiny little pills for the 32 S&W
Finally I cast some lee 457405 and low and behold the mould is throwing about .454-.455 diameter bullet. That isn't going to work.
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
That makes sense. Keep us updated.
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Got the Model 27-9 back today. Sort of. Half of it's new. New cylinder, new barrel. They replaced the firing pin (no idea why) and the front sight screw (in a bid to stop the scorch marks that are hard to clean off the edges of the cylinder). Shot around 75 rounds today and didn't have any issues that I really noticed. One thing I'm sure of is that the brass comes out a lot cleaner than it did before, and the double action is smoother. So probably there was something wonky about the original cylinder.
 
I added two aftermarked pieces from Steve Thone, dba dillonupgrades.com, to my xl650.

One replaces the "ski jump" for live primers with a block and a small bottle, and the other replaces the used primer bin with a funnel and tubing.

2019-01-29 09.38.27.jpg
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
Woohoo!
I use the 357” in my 9mm. They’re hard as a line knot.
The black 358” I use in my 38 and 357 mag. Little bigger and not as hard.
Enjoy man!
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What are you using for powder? And what OAL do you use with the black 358’s? I’ve never used any bullets that’s didn’t have a crimp groove for 38/357 so I was curious about OAL. I guess it doesn’t really matter as long as it fits in the cylinder.

Seems like they weigh about 130-132 grains. I was trying to figure out load data using bullseye powder in a 357 case. I normally run ~4.2 gr of bullseye with a coated 158 SWC or a plated 158 gr RN bullet. I’m thinking maybe try 5 gr with these 130 gr bullets since they’re lighter and shorter than the SWC’s i use.

I might even try those 9mm 120 gr bullets for my light 357 loads since I’ve got thousands of 9mm bullets on hand already.
 
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andrew1220 said:
What are you using for powder? And what OAL do you use with the black 358’s? I’ve never used any bullets that’s didn’t have a crimp groove for 38/357 so I was curious about OAL. I guess it doesn’t really matter as long as it fits in the cylinder.

Seems like they weigh about 130-132 grains. I was trying to figure out load data using bullseye powder in a 357 case. I normally run ~4.2 gr of bullseye with a coated 158 SWC or a plated 158 gr RN bullet. I’m thinking maybe try 5 gr with these 130 gr bullets since they’re lighter and shorter than the SWC’s i use.

I might even try those 9mm 120 gr bullets for my light 357 loads since I’ve got thousands of 9mm bullets on hand already.
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Not sure on the OAL really. I’ll have to check when I get home.
Basically whatever functions then taper crimp.
Or seat a little deeper to the ogive and roll crimp along it.
I used bullseye and clays. Just light loads for the 38.
 
Fired up the 650 for the first time in quite a while. Had a frustrating session loading plated 124gr 9mm. COL all over the place, managed to lodge a bullet sideways up in the seating die. Had to disassemble and punch it out. Only did around 30 or so.

Smart cookies at Dillon though. That clip design makes it a breeze to remove the die and put it back together without readjusting.

Gonna play around with it some more after work today. Would like to crank out a bunch of 9mm. Havent done so in a while.
 
mac1911 said:
Are those “hollow” bullets for a air rifle?
Or are those hollow base/point wad cutters.
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Hollow base/point 148 wadcutters.
MP brass 4 cavity mold. Casts like a dream.
Going to load some as hollow points to play around.
Way thicker shirt than the old swaged factory bullets so they should perform well.
 
Loaded a few hundred .38 spl 140 gr TCFP's over ~3.8 gr. of Bullseye. Also, a few hundred 115 gr 9mm FMJ RN over ~5 gr of CFE Pistol. I really like the way the 9mm shoots compared to factory ammo (doesn't appear to be as much recoil).
 
I think this weekend I'm going to do a mix of 150gr and 168gr 30-06 to try out in my service grade M1 for the postal match next week.

Curious to see which performs better.

Also debating whether or not to load up the c.450 .223 cases I have prepped that have been sitting for almost two years.
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
Hollow base/point 148 wadcutters.
MP brass 4 cavity mold. Casts like a dream.
Going to load some as hollow points to play around.
Way thicker shirt than the old swaged factory bullets so they should perform well.
Click to expand...
I remember seeing hollow base wadcutters as a kid. Then seeing Them for 9mm 45cal air rifles. When they came into main steam.
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
Not sure on the OAL really. I’ll have to check when I get home.
Basically whatever functions then taper crimp.
Or seat a little deeper to the ogive and roll crimp along it.
I used bullseye and clays. Just light loads for the 38.
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Well I loaded them up with some bullseye and just got home from testing them at my indoor range. They were VERY accurate. Thanks again.
05B4967D-C78B-43C7-803C-02A36D57208F.png
 
Did 40 rounds of 30-06 before the game; 20 with 150gr and 20 with 168 to compare with my service grade M1.
Both with Varget.
 
daekken said:
Did 40 rounds of 30-06 before the game; 20 with 150gr and 20 with 168 to compare with my service grade M1.
Both with Varget.
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What did you use for bullets?
My garands and ARs dont like it when i change bullet types? Takes several rounds for groups to tighten up. Drove me nuts when i thought a load with a different bullet sucked.
 
mac1911 said:
What did you use for bullets?
My garands and ARs dont like it when i change bullet types? Takes several rounds for groups to tighten up. Drove me nuts when i thought a load with a different bullet sucked.
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Nothing fancy, Hornady FMJBT for both. The 168s do say "Match" but I don't recall buying Match.

Not enough data for me to say anything about bullet change worsening things; I've only shot 168s from my M1s (although I've used HXP in the past) and this was partly to see how things fare. When shopping the 150s tend to be slightly cheaper. Not sure if I should shoot 168s first or the 150s.
 
daekken said:
Nothing fancy, Hornady FMJBT for both. The 168s do say "Match" but I don't recall buying Match.

Not enough data for me to say anything about bullet change worsening things; I've only shot 168s from my M1s (although I've used HXP in the past) and this was partly to see how things fare. When shopping the 150s tend to be slightly cheaper. Not sure if I should shoot 168s first or the 150s.
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Why not shoot them round robin. Alternating shots between 2 targets?
 
The in-laws are coming up this weekend; originally they were going to keep my wife company while I was doing the Appleseed but it was canceled, so I guess I'll spend some time reloading. Need to do some more 38spl for the item I'm picking up after work.

Also need to make some more 9x18 and perhaps I'll even do some .223 for the first time in 16 months. Didn't get a chance to shoot the M1 this week. I do want to get the K98 over for another postal match run.
 
I loaded the last of my clean 357 mag brass and the remaining coated 158 gr SWC’s I had over bullseye. Then I switched over and loaded some 44 mag with Zero 240 gr JSPs over H110. Need to test these in the Dan Cannon....
 
andrew1220 said:
I loaded the last of my clean 357 mag brass and the remaining coated 158 gr SWC’s I had over bullseye. Then I switched over and loaded some 44 mag with Zero 240 gr JSPs over H110. Need to test these in the Dan Cannon....
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The Zero’s shot well in the Dan.

Is it just the nature of the beast for H110/296 to be a dirty powder? I’m using a firm crimp (at least a full turn with the Lee FCD) but I always seem to get unburned powder in the barrel and cases. They shoot extremely well so it’s not the end of the world if I have to clean it more often.
957B9267-A819-4EAD-91B8-ADB57581862A.jpeg 6AC9DA59-C9B1-4AA2-A3A1-C503B544571C.jpeg CCF3195D-008F-4562-B2F0-9DE53482ADFB.jpeg
 
andrew1220 said:
The Zero’s shot well in the Dan.

Is it just the nature of the beast for H110/296 to be a dirty powder? I’m using a firm crimp (at least a full turn with the Lee FCD) but I always seem to get unburned powder in the barrel and cases. They shoot extremely well so it’s not the end of the world if I have to clean it more often.
View attachment 269792 View attachment 269793 View attachment 269794
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I don’t waste my time with H110 but from what I’ve read and from your pics I would say your crimp might need to be a little firmer.
Though I have heard there is always a little unburnt powder.
I don’t bother using H110 to get maybe another 100FPS VS. 2400 powder.
THE H110 raises hell with forcing cones and top straps.
Not worth ruining a nice gun for 100 FPS whether it’s shooting paper or hunting.
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
I don’t waste my time with H110 but from what I’ve read and from your pics I would say your crimp might need to be a little firmer.
Though I have heard there is always a little unburnt powder.
I don’t bother using H110 to get maybe another 100FPS VS. 2400 powder.
THE H110 raises hell with forcing cones and top straps.
Not worth ruining a nice gun for 100 FPS whether it’s shooting paper or hunting.
Click to expand...
Hmm I guess I could try more crimp. I’m using mixed brass which is all different lengths I’m sure. That will make it fun tough to have a consistent crimp every time.

I run into the same issue with 2400 in 357. Maybe my crimp really isn’t enough. They all shoot well though.

I’ve heard of getting erosion using Lil gun with light bullets but not with H110/296 and 240 gr bullets. I’d use 2400 for 44 but I’m saving it for 357. Maybe when I’m completely out of H110/296 I’ll just stick with 2400.

I’ll keep an eye out on the top strap and forcing cone but haven’t noticed anything yet. Fortunately the barrels can be changed with ease god forbid I wear it out.
 

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