Got my Lee single stage all set up. Decapped and sized 300 cases of 44 magnum last couple days.
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What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
Jbarila
NES Member
Don’t know if anyone interested but I don't like using paper loading notes and I was not paying a fortune to Big Blue. So i picked a tiny dry board up on Amazon. Permanent marker for lines, labeled and split, one for 650 other for 550. Attached a magnet and done. Attach a clip if you want to hang it on the case feeder.
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Nice. I do the old school piece of paper in the powder hopper with what it is setup as.
Trimmed and primer pocketed another 2k cases today. Time to empty the Giraud I think..
Trimmed and primer pocketed another 2k cases today. Time to empty the Giraud I think..
quinnjalan
NES Member
I found that one online. However, I printed a few more parts for the chute that I designed. One that attached to the bottom of the chute and another to get around the press base and deposit ammo into an ammo can. I'm really liking my 3D printer. Yes, the press table goes up and down. It's an old Hamilton Drafting table base I had knocking around. I'm too lazy to bend over!
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Thats quite the jig
I reloaded a bunch of 45/70 last night.
After trying 500 and 535 grains and all shooting too high out of the revolver, I decided to buy some jacketed 300, 325 and 405 grains. Looks like the big boys will have to be used for rifle only.
The 325 are Hornady FTX. I am looking forward to these.
After trying 500 and 535 grains and all shooting too high out of the revolver, I decided to buy some jacketed 300, 325 and 405 grains. Looks like the big boys will have to be used for rifle only.
The 325 are Hornady FTX. I am looking forward to these.
Well, I just got a bunch of primed 22 brass. Time to see what can be done to improve the world of 22lr. I know it sounds nuts but they also thought that bottled water, talking movies, and airplanes were bad ideas. All jokes aside, how about some suggestions so we can set the 22 precision shooting sports on their ...... Note: firing 22lr through an AR-15 with a precision Krieger 21 inch.1:9 twist seems to work pretty well. BTW... I know there are plenty of reasons why it should not but it did.
gerrycaruso
NES Member
I've been loading the .30/40 Krag with a Lyman 311284 and 23 grains of 5744. I recently tried the C.E. Harris load of 16 grains of 2400 with the same bullet. The load was milder and much more accurate. I put the same 16 grain load in 6.5x55, 8mm Mauser and .30/06. All with a cast bullet. I'll try them tomorrow and Sunday if it stops raining. I tried it in 7.62x54R and 7.7x58 Japanese. It worked well but I didn't see the dramatic improvement that I saw in the Krag.
kerryman71
NES Member
I didn't do anything, but I ALMOST, had to unclamp my press from the dining room table and clean up the cases and bullets for Christmas dinner, but my wife told me not to bother! Crisis averted!!
BarnBuilder
NES Member
Tumbled 500 9mm cases along with 250 38 Spl
I primed 300 223 so far. Doing more later.
Kamadojefe
NES Member
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I just got the 22reloader kit myself. I feel like it’s going to be the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever done with my time. Kit Comes with mold and crimp and stuff to re prime cases ....
![[pot]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/037.gif "Stir the pot [pot]")
As the hoes say. Only god can judge me
I just got 2,000 primed .22lr casings from FedArm. If you are in the region I would be glad to give you some. I would not want to ship because of the hazmat thing. If you get on the wait list they come up every 2 or 3 months. Here is the link CLICK HEREI just got the 22reloader kit myself. I feel like it’s going to be the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever done with my time. Kit Comes with mold and crimp and stuff to re prime cases ....
As the hoes say. Only god can judge me
A little note about primers based on this week's experience.
Tulammo SRP are larger in diameter and harder to seat than Winchester or CCI (400s and 41s). I primed 2300 rounds with CCI and Winchester. I had only 2 cases where a primer would not seat, led to a deformation of the primer cup and subsequent scrapping of the case/primer. Thats a very good result from mixed headstanp brass, 90%+ of which was crimped pocket before I processed it.
I switched to Tulammo (next brand pulling FIFO from my shelf) and in 300 primers I have had 5 primers fail to seat or deform while seating. I can also feel they are slightly harder to seat as I am hand priming. From a look with my eye loop it seems like the Tulammo cup has a sharper outer edge than the others and also the bottom the cup has a larger radius. This might be leading it to tilt more before starting to seat.
If you are reloading mixed brass with crimped primer pockets I would stay away from Tulammo if you can. They do seem fine on non-crimped brass so far, but again harder to seat.
CCI 400s are my normal go to, but I picked up quite a few bricks of these Tulammo from a buddy at a good price.
Tulammo SRP are larger in diameter and harder to seat than Winchester or CCI (400s and 41s). I primed 2300 rounds with CCI and Winchester. I had only 2 cases where a primer would not seat, led to a deformation of the primer cup and subsequent scrapping of the case/primer. Thats a very good result from mixed headstanp brass, 90%+ of which was crimped pocket before I processed it.
I switched to Tulammo (next brand pulling FIFO from my shelf) and in 300 primers I have had 5 primers fail to seat or deform while seating. I can also feel they are slightly harder to seat as I am hand priming. From a look with my eye loop it seems like the Tulammo cup has a sharper outer edge than the others and also the bottom the cup has a larger radius. This might be leading it to tilt more before starting to seat.
If you are reloading mixed brass with crimped primer pockets I would stay away from Tulammo if you can. They do seem fine on non-crimped brass so far, but again harder to seat.
CCI 400s are my normal go to, but I picked up quite a few bricks of these Tulammo from a buddy at a good price.
Good to know and thanks.
Kamadojefe
NES Member
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Thanks for the offer. It’ll be a while before I get to that rabbit hole. I’ll be curious to see how you make out.
Did you get the dies and are you casting boolits or get projos? It says you don’t need dies (I’m not sure what dies would even do) and I can imagine with the new shells no forming needed
You really should pick up a bleiker challenger to test those 22lr reloads
Seating and crimping?
What’s everyone’s method for removing case lube?? I resized some 30-30 brass today using the lanolin mixture. I put them into a Tupperware container and spray them about 4 or 5 times and shake. Then dump into tumbler with walnut media after resizing.
I’m getting tons of dried walnut dust on the caserim as well as inside casemouth. I spent over an hour removing the clumpy dust crap off the cases.
I used to use corn cob media and had the same result so this time around I tried walnut.
Too much god damn dust in this media. It’s that Frankfort Arsenal brand.
I’m getting tons of dried walnut dust on the caserim as well as inside casemouth. I spent over an hour removing the clumpy dust crap off the cases.
I used to use corn cob media and had the same result so this time around I tried walnut.
Too much god damn dust in this media. It’s that Frankfort Arsenal brand.
I don't remove it. Problem solved.
NHCraigT
NES Member
Add a cut up drier sheet to your media mix to collect dust while running it. Change the sheet scraps out every now and then as needed.
peterk123
NES Member
And add a touch of liquid car wax like Nu-Finish. Makes your brass nice and shiny.
Rubbing alcohol might be your only option. Just to dissolve whatever you sprayed it with.
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This is very intriguing...would love to hear more (perhaps a sticky thread) and a running blog about tools, lessons learned, etc. Good luck, keep us posted.
slipknot
NES Member
I spray alcohol
I lay them out on a towel and spray alcohol on them then fold towel over and wipe, easy. No dust no tumbling
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Less case lube and switch out to new media. I’ve had the same issue and everyone on CastBoolits told me the same thing. The media is old, dirty and loaded with brass polish. Switch to new stuff.
I hate to admit but this was fresh walnut media. First time using it.
I probably did use a little too much lube but still.
i found the FA walnut was very fine vs the lyman that came with my lyman tumbler and i ended up with lizard liter as its even more coarse than the lyman.
So What I did with the RA
i had a old sieve with fairly fine holes. I just sifted out the fine stiff. I then lightly used compressed air to blow off a bit more. In a small bucket i just blew across the rim it will suck the lightest stuff out.
This got me by until i bought some more from the pet store.
Then I learned the Nufinish and Oderless Mineral hack . I use the cap of the nu finish bottle one cap of NF one cap of OMS. Let it run for 20min until its mixed in well. i will add again after 5 or so runs or as needed. Dryer sheets help a little.
Oh and probably to much lube from the get go
Note: i seldom run them in the tumbler to remove lube. Only time I run them is when Im making long term storage bulk ammo. Its hard to tell my cases are lubed unless you touch it.
I have order sizing dies to resize the casting.
