38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
I have to dig back to see but I know I was using unique for plinking and I believe H4198 was the first full house load I was using and I switched to 3031 because it’s supposed to be awesome for 30-30.
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What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
I posted in here about 6 months ago about moving and starting the setup the reloading room. I was only able to start the reloading room, because that was the 1st load of things to make the move. That room was basically put on hold because so many other projects took precedence over reloading. Luckily I knew it would be a while before I could reloading for a while and stockpiled a good amount. Last night, I unpacked the room and am now setup to start again.
My new reloading room:
It's located in a 9 x 21 garage that is attached to an outbuilding that we call the "pool house" for now, but will eventually be an inlaw apartment for my inlaws when they make the move. Building is temperature controlled. I cut in an attic ladder so I gave a good amount of storage above the reloading room for supplies I dont use all the time.
My new reloading room:
It's located in a 9 x 21 garage that is attached to an outbuilding that we call the "pool house" for now, but will eventually be an inlaw apartment for my inlaws when they make the move. Building is temperature controlled. I cut in an attic ladder so I gave a good amount of storage above the reloading room for supplies I dont use all the time.
Now it’s only right that you show us your primer stash....
Now it’s only right that you show us your primer stash....
Why, is there a shortage going on?!?!? Hahahha
kerryman71
NES Member
Know what would make it even better? If it were "in an outbuilding that we call "the pool house" for now, which has a 9 X 21 garage that my in laws will be living in when they make the move" 
Kidding. Looks awesome.
Kidding. Looks awesome.
Those are rookie numbers for that equipment you have!!! Lol.
Let's just say the only progressive I own is a SDB for 9mm. I do all my rifle on a Lee 4 hole turret and I have many time the number of primers in that pic. Lol
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What are the hours your ammo store is open? That's serious. No wonder you left the Peoples Republic. LOL
Well I had 4 light strikes with these CCI primers today. They all went off after a second strike. Here’s a few of them. The first one on the far left definitely has a very light dimple
Except for one I hit 4 times and then stopped lol. Must be a dud primer?
Maybe I’ll stick with Winchester LRP as I have a bunch of those. I know CCI’s are the hardest so...
The firing pin on that old Marlin seems to move around okay so I don’t think it’s gunned up but I suppose I could take it apart anyway.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Not sure about this but I’m wondering if the light strikes could almost squeeze the compound out from between the anvil and the cup rendering it useless?
Leezway
NES Member
Price sticker from Riley’s on it. Bought them in probably 2014 or 2015 if I had to guess. But they’re in the blue box. Not the old white boxes from the 70s or 80s
Could be right! But I’m not sure why I’m getting light strikes. I’m hoping it’s just the primers and not the gun. Given I had 4-5 light strikes in 30 rounds I’m thinking primers
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Maura just fainted knowing that was once in the possession of one person in Massholistan..
where the light strikes all from the same headstamps?
I would be surprised if it’s the primers other than they are not as soft as others. It’s rare to have one primer failure let alone 4 or 5. You already checked the firing pin, bolt and spring for any goop, cold weather can affect things if there’s too much grease. What about headspace? Too much could cause a “light” strike since the round will be pushed forward when hit. I asume the bolt is completely closed?
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Those have a good dimple to em.
4 out 30 ain't bad, but it ain't great either.
Pull the pin out and see if you can get any schmegle out down towards the breechface.
4 out 30 ain't bad, but it ain't great either.
Pull the pin out and see if you can get any schmegle out down towards the breechface.
allen-1
NES Member
absolutely awesome.
headednorth
NES Member
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Good question I wish I paid more attention to that. Then again I’m using only Winchester and Federal brass. Looks like some primer strikes aren’t all that deep on both headstamps.
200’s
I literally cleaned the entire gun except for the inside of the bolt. Definitely wouldn’t hurt to check as it hadn’t been shot in 40 years.
It was nice to ring steel with that lever gun today. Seems like the 150s shoot POA. The 170s were hitting low. But it’s easy to adjust the sights so.
Mudflap621
NES Member
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how are you priming them? Hand or on press.I’d also look at possibly the primers not seated all the way. Very odd for sure maybe try running those primers through another cartridge or another gun see if your getting same results.
They’ve worked fine in 30-06 and 7.5x55 so far. After doing some research it looks like I could be seating the bullets just a hair too long and not allowing the action to fully close etc. Also said it could be a sizing issue. I did make sure the sizing die touched the shell holder.
I’m priming them on my press but they are below flush.
And I don’t even think I’ll need to clean these cases before I reload them
. They don’t even look like they were shot. 
What dies and press? I have not loaded 30-30 since I was a kid and wr used the lee whackAround reloader.They’ve worked fine in 30-06 and 7.5x55 so far. After doing some research it looks like I could be seating the bullets just a hair too long and not allowing the action to fully close etc. Also said it could be a sizing issue. I did make sure the sizing die touched the shell holder.
I’m priming them on my press but they are below flush.
And I don’t even think I’ll need to clean these cases before I reload them
View attachment 428247
I cant remember which brand my dad hated for brass. The Case rims where either to thin or thick
Just like 303 brit all the domestic 303 I had gave me fits because of rim thickness.
Also been a long time since I handle a lever action we had a 336 in 35 rem that would drop the hammer but not strike the primer if the lever was not fully locked.
Other than that very few problems with the reloads that I can remeber.
iirc we used a 170 gn soft point
Redding full length sizing and seating die. Lee classic cast press.
It just dawned on me that 30-30 headspaces on the rim. And then I realized I had a handful of cases that were difficult to slide into the shell holder. I actually had to use the Redding shell holder for 7.5x55 to have enough wiggle room for the 30-30 rims. Hmmm maybe that’s the issue? Rims too thick causing light strikes?
I did notice a few rounds that wouldn’t lock the lever unless you really forcefully racked the lever and chambered a round. Sounds like this is a brass issue? Well that stinks.
Dug into the bullet stash and put together some 357 magnum 100 yard thumpers for the 6" S&W 586.
Starline brass once fired, trimmed to 1.285", CCI500, 13.4 grains (thrown light then trickled up) of 2400, 1.585" OAL.
Going off Alliant data of 14.5g of 2400 and a 170 grain GDSP running 1166 fps, I'd started off with these using 13.6g, and was a little surprised to see them going over the chrono at 1333 fps average with sticky extraction and kind of brisk recoil. They were awesome, but I figured I should lighten it up.
Dialed it back to 13.3g and that ran 1209 fps average with good extraction. Going up a tenth to see how it goes. Went a little crazy, loaded 50. This is not quite a compressed load. If I shake a round I can hear the powder move around just a little bit. I think this bullet is now an obsolete part number, so I should have the load all figured out right as I run out.
Starline brass once fired, trimmed to 1.285", CCI500, 13.4 grains (thrown light then trickled up) of 2400, 1.585" OAL.
Going off Alliant data of 14.5g of 2400 and a 170 grain GDSP running 1166 fps, I'd started off with these using 13.6g, and was a little surprised to see them going over the chrono at 1333 fps average with sticky extraction and kind of brisk recoil. They were awesome, but I figured I should lighten it up.
Dialed it back to 13.3g and that ran 1209 fps average with good extraction. Going up a tenth to see how it goes. Went a little crazy, loaded 50. This is not quite a compressed load. If I shake a round I can hear the powder move around just a little bit. I think this bullet is now an obsolete part number, so I should have the load all figured out right as I run out.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
What about your Bullet seating depth? Any chance the bullets are hitting the rifling and causing the issue with not letting the lever close all the way?
Like I said a couple posts back my 336 Texan has a super short throat and the cast would engrave when closing the lever. It was such a close fit that I really have to make sure the bullets are seated with the case mouth to the very top of the crimp groove or there were issues.
The rim thickness makes sense too.
Also some of the brands of brass have super thin brass at the neck. That caused issues too. No neck tensions
Upon further inspection it looks like some primers are basically flush and not below flush in the primer pocket. Maybe I should hand prime these. My Hornady progressive press has developed a dent in the press where the primer seating thingy pushes against the press to then force the plug upwards to seat the primer.
The dent means that it won’t push/seat the primers as far now. Hasn’t been a problem yet with my other calibers. I dunno what to think lol. Do the primers really need to be well below flush in the pocket?
