No idea. I started to load and notice the primer thing wasn't moving, then I looked and that metal piece was broken.
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What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
allen-1
NES Member
Which is basically a 650 with a 550 priming system. I don't have any 550/750 spare parts.
Its all good. I am sure Dillon will send me one. I already Emailed them, but I dont expect them to reply during the weekend.Which is basically a 650 with a 550 priming system. I don't have any 550/750 spare parts.
What a weird part to break. I wonder if it is common.
I made some 380 super auto. Yes, 380 super auto. It’s a wildcat I invented by not paying attention and loading a 147 gr FMJ over 4.0 of power pistol in a 380 case. I did this 6 times.
When your sizing is way too easy, there is probably an error. I had to verify headstamp on 500 rounds to find them. Doh!
When your sizing is way too easy, there is probably an error. I had to verify headstamp on 500 rounds to find them. Doh!
EddieZoom
NES Member
It is. Broke mine earlier this year on a 550....i thought the same thing but seems it's more common than ya think. Free replacement from Dillon in about a week.
Whsts the norm right now.I had a heart attack last week when wife paid .09 each for CCI
Pre covid was what $34-$41/1000?
Thats about when I stopped buying the #41
walter62
NES Member
'Challenge Accepted'
Recently acquired some .45 Auto brass, so did a few sessions with the SF45-155 RHHP frangibles.
I don't think this was the wisest purchase, being they are "pulled" bullets. These things are fragile enough new, so if you push them too hard they tend to fracture in the magazine. Lesson learned.
I don't think this was the wisest purchase, being they are "pulled" bullets. These things are fragile enough new, so if you push them too hard they tend to fracture in the magazine. Lesson learned.
TZCHRIS
NES Member
Shooter warehouse is 44/100 if you are there when the truck is unloaded. Online has been 100/1000 after hazmat and shipping. I was upset I dropped below 15k so wife did me a favor and bought 4k for $400, I'm preparing 2 buckets of 223 now so I will use them.
That rod needs a smear of grease on the top...and its good to use a little graphite on the slide at the base.
BarnBuilder
NES Member
First time loading 35 Rem. 200 Gr. Hornady FTX 31 Gr. RL7 COL. 2.49 Chrono Avg. 2000 fps
First target was getting on paper at 100 yds working my way in. Second target is my last 2 shots. All from a bench rest. Scope was a Leupold 3-9
I can hit a steel silhouette at 200 yds. I think next time I'll put out targets to verify exact location. Oh my 200 yd range is 35 ft from my basement/reloading/ gun room
First target was getting on paper at 100 yds working my way in. Second target is my last 2 shots. All from a bench rest. Scope was a Leupold 3-9
I can hit a steel silhouette at 200 yds. I think next time I'll put out targets to verify exact location. Oh my 200 yd range is 35 ft from my basement/reloading/ gun room
Attachments
walter62
NES Member
That is mentioned in the DP 'maintenance' video on their site. Grease that rod where it goes into the block and then a dab on the
edge of the 'wing' thats on the casting and limits the rod movement inward
allen-1
NES Member
could anybody post a picture of those nuts/assembly?
it was confusing about nuts - the fix for a breaking rod is different - below:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1swL2EqgXQ
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38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Ahhh just moving some stuff around and finally got to hang the cartridge board.
I need to dig out some more random cartridges and do some filling it.
I need to dig out some more random cartridges and do some filling it.
The fun finally began, only took me 5 years. 
But, better late than never. I’m quite excited.
Trying to decide now if it is worth cutting down case holder support tube to bring whole thing down a bit or not.
But, better late than never. I’m quite excited.
Trying to decide now if it is worth cutting down case holder support tube to bring whole thing down a bit or not.
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allen-1
NES Member
The fun finally began, only took me 5 years.
But, better late than never. I’m quite excited.
Trying to decide now if it is worth cutting down case holder support tube to bring whole thing down a bit or not.
View attachment 536134
Yeah, don't do that. The cases feed down a plastic tube, if you cut down the support tube, you have to cut down the plastic tube.
I realize that and that is the dilemma as I am afraid it may crack. Yeah, probably better keeping it as is.
Wow. Compared to me you have a high ceiling!The fun finally began, only took me 5 years.
But, better late than never. I’m quite excited.
Trying to decide now if it is worth cutting down case holder support tube to bring whole thing down a bit or not.
View attachment 536134
allen-1
NES Member
I ended up running a couple drywall screws through my case feeders to fasten them in place. The additional stability cured some misfeeding issues I was having with them.
good idea, i also noticed that is swirls around the tube. will drill and secure it tomorrow.
gerrycaruso
NES Member
I paper patched 10 bullets clockwise and 10 counter clockwise for the .43 Spanish rolling block and did the same for a .45/70 trapdoor with a fairly large bore. I'll try them tomorrow if it's not windy. I also loaded some .44 spl. with a Lyman 429421 and 9 grains of Blue Dot. I'm looking for something a little heavier than factory to shoot out of a model 24.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Nice’ can’t wait to hear how they do.
I never noticed a difference between the wrap direction.
Counter what
gerrycaruso
NES Member
I read in "The Paper Jacket" that it makes a difference but I didn't see any in the .43 Spanish. The groups were the same no matter which direction the paper was wrapped in. The rolling block has deep rifling and the trap door has shallow rifling. I'll do the same thing tomorrow with the trap door and see what happens.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
allen-1
NES Member
Went to the range the other day with my son and a bunch of Glocks. Found out that the two newest ones, 43X and 48, both Gen 5 would misfire on the rounds that were running consistently in all of my other guns.
Came home, did some googling and read that this has been a problem for some reloaders with the new "Marksman" barrels. Apparently the chambers are tighter. So, I screwed down the crimp die 270 degrees and made up another 50 rounds. Took them to the range yesterday and ran them through the 48. Issue appears to be resolved.
So I loaded up another 400 rounds today. Put them in an ammo can labeled 9mm Gen5. All of my rounds going forward will be like this, but I've got at least 4,000 rounds already loaded that I'll shoot only in my Gen 4 guns.
Glad it was so simple to fix.
Came home, did some googling and read that this has been a problem for some reloaders with the new "Marksman" barrels. Apparently the chambers are tighter. So, I screwed down the crimp die 270 degrees and made up another 50 rounds. Took them to the range yesterday and ran them through the 48. Issue appears to be resolved.
So I loaded up another 400 rounds today. Put them in an ammo can labeled 9mm Gen5. All of my rounds going forward will be like this, but I've got at least 4,000 rounds already loaded that I'll shoot only in my Gen 4 guns.
Glad it was so simple to fix.
gerrycaruso
NES Member
The trap door shot slightly better than the rolling block even though the trap door is older and the rolling block has a better trigger and better sights. Counter clockwise seems better in the trap door and it doesn't matter in the rolling block. I guess I'll apply all the patches counter clockwise which is fine because it's easier. Maybe the shallow rifling of the trap door is better suited to paper patched bullets. I don't know. I have a lot to learn.
