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Hollow point data is very interesting...
Same. I’m waiting for those bulk no-name 22 packs are 4 cents/rnd. I’m not doing super hyper laser accuracy like some of the pros here. Just good ol’ 22 plinkingI'm holding out til it drops back to 4c pr.
I may be waiting a while...
I still have bricks in my stash where I paid 2c pr.
Less over-penetration? Would be interesting...The split point modification reminded me of the tools people made or bought to trim the end of a round nose bullet to a flat nose, duplicating the CCI Small Game Bullet flat nose. I'm curious how the flat nose would compare to the three they tested.
I sold a brick of that junk a couple of months ago for $50This stuff hasvto be 20 plus years old also cause thats when I gave up on temington 22lr
22lr extra range has to be at least 30 years old bought when sears in Hanover still sold guns and ammo mid 80s
If anyone remebers gun counter was right when you walked in just passed the large vacuum demo area with the women dumping cherrios and feathers on rugs
I gave it to nes’r djrsteele for free when he picked up the 8mm ammo today, just to make room in the cabinet.I sold a brick of that junk a couple of months ago for $50
This was January 2020, about the same price…This stuff has to be 20 plus years old also cause thats when I gave up on remington 22lr
Hollow point data is very interesting...
I bought some factory .22lr hollow points during the height of the ammo apocalypse just out of sheer lack of options. Shooting paper, I obviously can't tell the difference. Is there a point (see what I did there) to them? I still can't see carrying a .22lr for self defense, so I'm not sure why I'd need a hollow point. Looks like they do expand a bit, but for what? Varmint rounds?
Anyway, they seem to cycle fine in my lever rifle, so I'll use them like any other plinking stuff.
Squirrels LOVE HP .22's.I bought some factory .22lr hollow points during the height of the ammo apocalypse just out of sheer lack of options. Shooting paper, I obviously can't tell the difference. Is there a point (see what I did there) to them? I still can't see carrying a .22lr for self defense, so I'm not sure why I'd need a hollow point. Looks like they do expand a bit, but for what? Varmint rounds?
Anyway, they seem to cycle fine in my lever rifle, so I'll use them like any other plinking stuff.
Growing up we did a lot of experimentingSquirrels LOVE HP .22's.
I would never "spit" a round-nose, but who knows? Never say never...
Huh - an interesting approach. With NE coyote average weight being 36lbs according to my shallow search of the internet, that works out to 2.9 ft/lbs per pound for a 38gr 22LR, and I'd consider that to be at best marginal effectiveness. I think we can take a SWAG at 7.6 and 2.9 being our upper and lower limits for effectiveness.How about a little thought experiment on the lethality of hunting ammunition.
We can probably all agree that the 308 is an acceptable choice of cartridge for black bear, average weight of 300 lbs. The Federal premium 180 gr cartridge has 2278 ft /lbs of energy at 100 yards.
That gives us 7.6 ft/lbs of energy for every pound of bear. More than sufficient to do the job.
The average Grey squirrel weighs about 1.5 lbs. A 38gr hollow point has about 104 ft/ lbs of energy at 50 yards. That equates to 69 ft/ lbs of killing force per pound of squirrel.
I don't want to start any rumors that the 22 is overkill as a hunting round. I'll just let the science speak for itself.
Huh - an interesting approach. With NE coyote average weight being 36lbs according to my shallow search of the internet, that works out to 2.9 ft/lbs per pound for a 38gr 22LR, and I'd consider that to be at best marginal effectiveness. I think we can take a SWAG at 7.6 and 2.9 being our upper and lower limits for effectiveness.
Perhaps I should rethink using my 375 H&H as a squirrel rifle. 2744 ft/lb-lb. Nah, if there's one thing NES has taught me it's that there's no such thing as overkill.
My dad probably picked these up in his travels I dont recall a Dickies bait and tackle growing up.
I like the thought experiment, and also agree with the wound cavity consideration as being key. .22LR is MORE than adequate for chipmunks, but the vast majority of the energy is dumped into the ground or tree behind the animal. Chipmunk is still dead. I've seen airgun pellets with much less energy punch clean holes through. I need to spend more time studying terminal ballistics to better understand relevant factors...Wound cavity size (width) in relation to animal size probably plays a factor. .22lr is probably strong enough to penetrate enough to kill a coyote, but causes less relative damage inside this larger animal. But for a squirrel, that's a much larger relative wound cavity.
LIGHT STRIKES ON THE CMMG 22LR BCG
Ok so I put on a CMC 3.5lb trigger on my AR. I'm getting FTF at ~10% rate. Ammo is Federal target and champion, and some Remington (I forget which ones).
Before, I was using a regular GI trigger with JP springs, not one FTF.
My issue is:
I really want to keep the CMC trigger on there, and hoping the FTFs are due to:
-the CMMG bolt being dirty as hell (I just stripped it and cleaned it last night after hundreds of rounds)
-firing pin tip being blunt due to my dry firing (I believe the firing pin strikes metal, not air). In that case, I can order a new firing pin or shave off 1mm off the firing pin spring to allow more primer penetration.
Praying that I can keep 22lr plinking without modifying my setup!
Ok so problem solved. The bolt just needed a cleaning! And a real deep cleaning, that is. 22lr is a really dirty round. It's like a 2-stroke engine. Make sure to clean and oil the firing pin spring. You want the least amount of friction so when the hammer wacks the firing pin, it really hits the rim good. Works so well that I fired most of the 22 duds from before. Good to know that the 3.5lb trigger still works, although I would go 4+lbs next time.LIGHT STRIKES ON THE CMMG 22LR BCG
Ok so I put on a CMC 3.5lb trigger on my AR. I'm getting FTF at ~10% rate. Ammo is Federal target and champion, and some Remington (I forget which ones).
Before, I was using a regular GI trigger with JP springs, not one FTF.
My issue is:
I really want to keep the CMC trigger on there, and hoping the FTFs are due to:
-the CMMG bolt being dirty as hell (I just stripped it and cleaned it last night after hundreds of rounds)
-firing pin tip being blunt due to my dry firing (I believe the firing pin strikes metal, not air). In that case, I can order a new firing pin or shave off 1mm off the firing pin spring to allow more primer penetration.
Praying that I can keep 22lr plinking without modifying my setup!
Yes 22lr can be a dirty bird. The key is not to over lube your 22s. All you really want is enough "gun oil" to help prevent rust. Very Very lightOk so problem solved. The bolt just needed a cleaning! And a real deep cleaning, that is. 22lr is a really dirty round. It's like a 2-stroke engine. Make sure to clean and oil the firing pin spring. You want the least amount of friction so when the hammer wacks the firing pin, it really hits the rim good. Works so well that I fired most of the 22 duds from before. Good to know that the 3.5lb trigger still works, although I would go 4+lbs next time.
Don't overlube on 22lr. That's overkill.Yes 22lr can be a dirty bird. The key is not to over lube your 22s. All you really want is enough "gun oil" to help prevent rust. Very Very light
Don't overlube on 22lr. That's overkill.
All you need to clean on 22lr are:
THE FOUR KEY AREAS