• If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership  The benefits pay for the membership many times over.

Another Old beater 1913 M96 Swede

After a ocer night soak of Gunslick Foaming bore cleaner, I like how this stuff works. Im almost out a small can lasted me a few years.

After a soak of Gunslick and about 50 patches, this could use a crown refresh but Im going to leave it alone till I decide to keep it to shoot it.


View: https://youtu.be/aadtZ8eAjcs

just for comparison heres a 1955 LMR M1 garand barrel. this took for every to get clean. I tried to get this barrel to shoot accurately and I could not get better than 5 moa even after every accuracy trick I know. I have a barrel on a field grade that looks worse but will shoot reloads to 3 moa .
as you can see at 60 years old its not much better than the 107 yr old swede.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9odhmBdriVU
 
Last edited:
just noticed your rear sight is a bit high ? put it sown and see how that helps?

Yeah. Saw that too after a few shots and put it down. Did't help a lot. My other M96 has a high sight and isn't too bad. Have to measure and get another, maybe file a tall one down...
 
Loaded up some barnes and used barnes load data. I started with a powder charge right dab in the middle 41.9 grains Norma MRP seated at barnes COAL of 3.035” first 5 shots on the lower target , when I saw this I was a bit frustrated then shot the next 5 on the top target. The 5.th shot went low. That shot sounded and acted strange like a hangfire ,
I did start with a freshly cleaned bore and cold shots.
It was nice to see a nice little nugget on the next group
So even with frosted bore and crusty crown some will still shoot.

I dont think I can hold any tighter

1990749D-3563-4A6F-8FBE-C155BB624084.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Working on cleaning the Swedes again today. Almost out of Butch's Bore Shine. Might use the Sweets on both of these. Did you plug the bore to soak with the Gunslick foam?
The Bore Tech any good do you know?
 
Yesterday used Butch's several wet patches over half hour. Then dried and several Kroil patch and left till today. Going to see what comes out of there now...
 
Loaded up some barnes and used barnes load dara. I started with a piwder charge right dab in the middle 41.8 grains seated at barnes COAL of 3.035” first 5 shots o NBC the lower target , when I seen this I was a bit frustrated then shot the next 5 on the top target. The 5.th shot went low. That shot sounded and acted strange like a hangfire ,
I did startvwith a freshly cleaned bore and cold shots.
It was nice to see a nice little nuget on the next group
So even with frosted bore and crusty crown some will still shoot.

I dont think I can hold any tighter

View attachment 403583

Nice tight 4 there. You see the dights okay, where you aiming?
BTW measured my other M96 that shoots a little high at 100yd The front sight is marked 0, so somebody welded on the top of it. It measures .314 high blade.
 
Im aiming 6 oclock of the black bull. Im not going to even bother with the sights until I get consistent groups.
this load seems to have shifted a tad more to the right. I can see the sights OK the rear is a pita as long as I dont spend a lot of time trying to "line up " the sights I do ok. I juat look down the sights see a sight picture and pop off the round.
 
Working on cleaning the Swedes again today. Almost out of Butch's Bore Shine. Might use the Sweets on both of these. Did you plug the bore to soak with the Gunslick foam?
The Bore Tech any good do you know?
I do not plug the bores. So far gun slick has done well by me. I find Kroil is really only good for rust and corrosion.
Depending on how bad the bore is I usually start with warm dish soapy water and clean it like a black powder rifle and "plunge" warm dish soapy water up and through the bore.
IOf its not to bad I run a wet patch and then brush it a good amount , then dry patches before using any deep cleaners or copper removers.

Montanna copper killer smells awful but I find it works better than sweets for heavy copper removal.

I dont think gun slick is available any more ? I think its noe Hoppes Elite ?
I might try wipe out next. I like the foaming cleaners.
 
Last edited:
You guys are nuts strpping all of the fouling out of those old barrels with dozens of patches and harsh copper solvents, just shoot the damn things and move on. They aren't gonna get any better unless you fix the crowns. I don't even clean my good rifles that much, nevermind a 100yr old surplus gun.
 
You guys are nuts strpping all of the fouling out of those old barrels with dozens of patches and harsh copper solvents, just shoot the damn things and move on. They aren't gonna get any better unless you fix the crowns. I don't even clean my good rifles that much, nevermind a 100yr old surplus gun.
Well sometimes that holds true , but sometimes theres so much crud in the groves you have to get the crud out.
Now that its clean and starting to group much better I,wont clean much at all other than a wet patch , few dry patches and wet patch for corrosion protection.
I tried shooting clean my mauser not until I,gave it a deep cleaning did i get anything better than minute of berm. i eventually recrowned it but cant say it helped.

I do run my match rifles until accuracy drops and then deep clean them.

For this swede i would like to get consistent ly under 3 moa for cmp vintage rifle. I hardly doubt it would have got there if I just kept shooting it.
So im close to my goal and i have a new sight to fix elevation and i will adjust windage as needed.
I might fix the crown after a few matches if it holds up. I really dont think the crown will help much with this rifle?
 
Last edited:
You guys are nuts strpping all of the fouling out of those old barrels with dozens of patches and harsh copper solvents, just shoot the damn things and move on. They aren't gonna get any better unless you fix the crowns. I don't even clean my good rifles that much, nevermind a 100yr old surplus gun.

Were you paying attention to the before and after groups?

Keep in mind some of us are not really that into collecting as much as finding a good shooter for vintage military matches.
 
Loaded up some barnes and used barnes load data. I started with a powder charge right dab in the middle 41.9 grains Norma MRP seated at barnes COAL of 3.035” first 5 shots on the lower target , when I saw this I was a bit frustrated then shot the next 5 on the top target. The 5.th shot went low. That shot sounded and acted strange like a hangfire ,
I did start with a freshly cleaned bore and cold shots.
It was nice to see a nice little nugget on the next group
So even with frosted bore and crusty crown some will still shoot.

I dont think I can hold any tighter

View attachment 403583

Nice group until you ruined it with that last shot.
 
Nice group until you ruined it with that last shot.
i friken swears , shitty Fn ammo....
I used one case from the collet sizer and i swear thats the one that went baaannBAANG! was really wierd. If I have any ambition I,might load 10 rounds for the sweed and put it on paper at 200
 
i friken swears , shitty Fn ammo....
I used one case from the collet sizer and i swear thats the one that went baaannBAANG! was really wierd. If I have any ambition I,might load 10 rounds for the sweed and put it on paper at 200

Not enough neck tension?
 
Never used a collet die. What's the advantage?
Its lees neck sizing die, it looks like a lee FCD but with a stem , i tried taking pictures of the neck after sizing but i cant pick up the detail. i will figure it out.
 
So I finally found the time to do a chamber cast and im a touch under .268" so my cast bullets are a touch over .268" I have a sizer thats .268"

The bullets are coated with hitek from Norms bullets. I ordered them with no gas checks and not sized. I will seat and size to .268"
Im hoping the hitek coated bullets with obturate well enough and the gas check will do its job ?

I might lube them just to have that added mental stability?
 
Getting some brass ready for the 6.5
Im going to run sierra to the 3.00”
41.9 grains NORMA MRP for around 2450 fps.
Im hoping its a good start and by thr time the new front sights come I will be ready to dial it in
 
My Lee NS die often hangs up and if you don't catch it, you'll crush the shoulder of the case.
I also found that it was helpful to trim down the diameter of the decap stem to get better bullet grip.
Norm used to use the factory gas checks (copper) , but I think he's making his own aluminum ones now. These tend to be found about ten feet from the muzzle in my experience.
 
My Lee NS die often hangs up and if you don't catch it, you'll crush the shoulder of the case.
I also found that it was helpful to trim down the diameter of the decap stem to get better bullet grip.
Norm used to use the factory gas checks (copper) , but I think he's making his own aluminum ones now. These tend to be found about ten feet from the muzzle in my experience.
I ordered some of norms 6.5 and others with out sizing or gas checks.
I have a .268” sizer coming to size and seat the gas checks. Chamber casting of my 6.5 swede shows a generous lead and grove dia is a bit over .266” thats what norm sizes them to. Thats fine if you have a nice fresh barrel
Norms 6.5 bullets are a smidge under .268” so Om hoping for a good plinker round thats light on powder consumption.
 
I've never slugged my bore, but seem to do just fine with his 150 grainers and my own Lyman 266469 cast bullets (with and without GC). The rifle will outshoot me any day of the week, so I don't get that technical.
Enjoy.
Just be mindful that many 6.5mm cases (R-P etc.) tend to have a smaller rim diameter and are best sized with the .308 Winchester/.45 Auto shell holder.
Hotshot brass (IK ?) tend to have small flash holes that pull the decap pin from its stem.
 

Attachments

  • P1010014.JPG
    P1010014.JPG
    169.5 KB · Views: 2
  • P1010016.JPG
    P1010016.JPG
    172.9 KB · Views: 2
  • 100m Cat.jpg
    100m Cat.jpg
    197.9 KB · Views: 2
I've never slugged my bore, but seem to do just fine with his 150 grainers and my own Lyman 266469 cast bullets (with and without GC). The rifle will outshoot me any day of the week, so I don't get that technical.
Enjoy.
Just be mindful that many 6.5mm cases (R-P etc.) tend to have a smaller rim diameter and are best sized with the .308 Winchester/.45 Auto shell holder.
Hotshot brass (IK ?) tend to have small flash holes that pull the decap pin from its stem.
All PPU brass for now and have some lapua brass also. i will retain the lapua for the day I get this thing shooting as well as it can.

Note:
I have all but abandoned US manufactured brass for the European based cartridges.
well worth paying for correctly made brass.
US manufactured 303 brit gave me fits, wide range of rim thickness. Case splits and Head separation in one to Two reloads.

so its PPU, lapua it Norma, HXP 303 is very good also
 
Last edited:
Does anybody use any kind of aperture rear sight on their 96? My eyes are getting bad and the notch on the original rear sight is mighty small. I'd love to put on some sort of peep sight without breaking the bank.
 
Back
Top Bottom