AR malfunctions help *UPDATE* SUCCESS!!!!!!!

Did you mig that or tig it? My only concern would be the puddle flowing into the bore. Looks good tho. Did you drill it or ream it to size?
 
Drilled it, cobalt drill, it was a spurt of the moment decision. I planned on replacing the barrel anyway, so if i ruined it, no big deal. I wish i still had a milling machine and a lathe. I didn't have the room to keep them :(

i added a few more details in the post. :) mig ( i am dying to get a TIG for the shop because of the amount of aluminum welding i do. )
 
IMG_0304.jpg


best pic i could get of the bore....
 
Ink said:
nope.barrel is flawless. i loaded the barrel with anti spatter and left a cleaning rod inside when i welded it. took me 2 hours, 3 candy bars and a soda. (remember, i cannot be 100% sure this is a remsport barrel. I am going by the previous owner but i did not purchase it)

"for the welders"
I didn't have access to a TIG so i MIG'd it with .023 steel wire, bout 30 lbs stargon mixture, around 18 volts (running lincon wirematic on 220v ac)
Click to expand...

If I were to try something like this the only thing I would have done differently is use an edm drill rod in the bore. You can buy them for like $10 in precise diameters. I woudl get one .001 undersize and then turn down all but 1" at the end which would be positioned under the gas port. I would then weld it up and tap the rod out after it was cooled. The rod would ensure the puddle didn't run into the bore. We use a technique like this when welding small gaps in sheetmetal since the weld won't stick to the brass.
 
groundscrapers said:
If I were to try something like this the only thing I would have done differently is use an edm drill rod in the bore. You can buy them for like $10 in precise diameters. I woudl get one .001 undersize and then turn down all but 1" at the end which would be positioned under the gas port. I would then weld it up and tap the rod out after it was cooled. The rod would ensure the puddle didn't run into the bore. We use a technique like this when welding small gaps in sheetmetal since the weld won't stick to the brass.
Click to expand...

I figured the cleaning rod would be good for this experiment. it fit really snug. I thought about brass too, it was available to me, but i wasn't sure if it would mar the bore. I contemplated drilling and tapping the hole for a plug then drilling the plug. I thought about a pin, relocating the port, etc etc. I was worried about the heat and the alloy of the barrel. I was pretty nervous about doing this. I have a lot of welding experience.... nearly 15 years but this was a little different....
 
Awesome, I hope this works. It will be interesting to see if the weld holds up to the pressure and if there will be any accuracy issues with the drilled port
 
Epic skills, Ink. [cheers] This should be interesting. I am curious as to the outcome. Keep us posted!

-Mike
 
cekim said:
"great! ... now if we could just keep it from exploding..."

[laugh]

Nice work.
Click to expand...
This added HUGE what if factor and was the reason i decided not to put anything into the port or push the weld too deep. If i saw ANYTHING in the bore, i would have called it a day and just bought a new barrel. Wish me luck
 
groundscrapers said:
If I were to try something like this the only thing I would have done differently is use an edm drill rod in the bore. You can buy them for like $10 in precise diameters. I woudl get one .001 undersize and then turn down all but 1" at the end which would be positioned under the gas port. I would then weld it up and tap the rod out after it was cooled. The rod would ensure the puddle didn't run into the bore. We use a technique like this when welding small gaps in sheetmetal since the weld won't stick to the brass.
Click to expand...

That sounds like it would be an excellent technique which I will file away in my memory banks for future reference.[wink] Where do you buy those EDM drill rods? I was a machinist for many years, but never used those. I love to fabricate stuff, and have welder, Bridgeport, lathe, etc., so I can see these rods coming in handy for a lot of applications.

Brian
 
Ink said:
This added HUGE what if factor and was the reason i decided not to put anything into the port or push the weld too deep. If i saw ANYTHING in the bore, i would have called it a day and just bought a new barrel. Wish me luck
Click to expand...
You might try to recover one of your projectiles and inspect the indentations for anomalies, but that's easier to do when there is a good snow pile to fire into... In dirt it can be tough...

As others have stated, the real question is going to be the longevity issue and how the weld and surrounding metal hold up.
 
I'm curious too.

I think I may have the perfect way to have prevented anything from entering the bore. Pound an all copper bullet down the bore until it is under the hole, weld, then pound it out.

Lead would be easier, but I'm not sure if it would stand up to the heat.

I'm very interested in how this turns out.

One thought re testing is to first pound a lead bullet through and see if it picks up any heavy scoring when it goes past the gas port. Its so damn hard to see inside those itty bitty barrels.
 
how fitting--wearing a glock shirt while doing something that might make a firearm explode. [laugh]

you crazy, son. you're doing some excellent work, i am enjoying this thread. [cheers]
 
Wow that's pretty wild. Very curious to know how it works out.

I opted to just return and replace my barrel to fix the *ahem* oversized gas port issue. I still wonder how my 16" piston will hold up with the other barrel... So far it's been flawless
 
Terminator03 said:
That sounds like it would be an excellent technique which I will file away in my memory banks for future reference.[wink] Where do you buy those EDM drill rods? I was a machinist for many years, but never used those. I love to fabricate stuff, and have welder, Bridgeport, lathe, etc., so I can see these rods coming in handy for a lot of applications.

Brian
Click to expand...


Try the guys @ MWI

http://www.mwiedm.com/home.cfm

What you are looking for is EDM drill rod. Its a brass alloy with some nickel I believe because its a little harder then your typical 360 brass. They come hollow and have a varying wall thickness depending on OD.

***

Looks like this:

Brass_And_Copper_electrode_Tubes_for_EDM_machines.jpg
 
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Yup! Success! So lemme break it down...

I am now ejecting to 3:00 and then some. Before, i was ejecting at about 1:00.

I have solved my failure to eject issue as well! The rifle runs so much smoother now. I was nervous pulling the trigger on the first shot. I went through 80 rounds and not one single hiccup. I couldn't get through half a mag at HSC on sunday. Also, the accuracy stayed. I have a couple of vids and pics to post later.

I am quite happy!!!!!! So, the rifle was definitely over gassed.

:)
 
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Oh, lemme add one more important detail that led me to believe overgassing was the problem. I noticed strong STRONG extractor marks on the spent casings. The extractor was crushing the rim. This might of been obvious to others, but what i think was happening is the bolt was trying to extract way too fast because of the volume of gas. All of the energy was spent trying to pull a still swollen casing out of the chamber, and there wasn't enough left to properly eject the casing leading to the limp ejection at 1:00.

The spent brass from today has no strong extractor marking and you can barley tell where the extractor and ejector hit the casing. The casings look much less deformed too. I only notice this now because the deformed casings were all i had to go by. Hell, these casings look like they are almost good enough to reload as is.

Everyone at NES has been extremely helpful! But, i need to call out a couple of members who went above and beyond.....

TY43215 (helped me out with equipment and good advice), SUPERMOTO (gave me some valuable insight at HSC and let me borrow a rifle), and especially SSCHEVY, who through nearly 30 PM's offered me parts, tools, and researched my plight like it was his own rifle.

Thank you to the NES family.
 
First, nice work! I've heard of the ejector marking sign and another sign could be the brass shoots further, like 14 ft. instead of 7 ft. but that's hard to judge.

The 1 o'clock ejection is a result of too much energy, not a limp ejection. The casing hits the deflector then bounces forward, which I think is a combination of hitting at an odd angle and with too much energy:



Decreasing the gas pressure should put it at about 3 o'clock like you have. Then a heavy buffer (H2) might slow it down a little more and maybe put it back at about 4 or 5 o'clock on a carbine length.



and just some more to stare at (mesmerizing isn't it?)

 
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TgtGfx.jpg 100_2157.jpg very cool, Ink I like your follow through. As fas as ammo makeing a difference at 100 yards. This is out of my Inland M1 Carbine 1st pic is 100 yards with my hand loads
110 grain hornady FMJRN, 14 grains of W296 , wolf primers. 2nd pic is Remington UMC. So yes ammo makes a huge difference. I shot these groups prone off a padded ammo can.

I think ejection can tell you a a bit of whats going on.
my Stag 16" H2 has different ejection habbits for the different ammo
Federal xm193 all over the place from 12 to 5 Oc.
55 grain fmj reloads with varget varies between 2 & 4 oc and distance also varies.
55 grain fmj blc2 nice pile at 1-2 oc about 2' away
68 grain fmjhp blc2 powder 2' about 3' away but leaves a much tighter pile.
 
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