Bullet Casting & Coating MegaThread

1st time reloading cast for my Savage 99 in 308. Barrel was slugged to .3085. Mold is a Lee C309-170-FN. Alloy of about 9-10 BHN (pencil hardness test), dropped at .309", 173gr. Three coats of candy apple red Hi Tek. Gas checked and sized to .309. Brass trimmed to 2.007 and expanded the neck just enough not to shave the bullet. Bullets seated to crimp groove. I was going to seat GC to neck base but GCs are on tight and figured I would start there. Light crimp (Lee collet). Started at 10gr of Unique and worked up to 12gr. Plan on testing on Monday.
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I like it!
 
Cheap if you don't mind the COVID


Add $30 for a more appropriate thermocouple, a case, and some wiring
have you actually used these? I see a short life or melt down with cheap relay?
anyhow should be doing a PID box at some point.
Im just unsure of what to use as far as any amp requiremwnts and temp ranges of all associated parts?
 
have you actually used these? I see a short life or melt down with cheap relay?
anyhow should be doing a PID box at some point.
Im just unsure of what to use as far as any amp requiremwnts and temp ranges of all associated parts?
I'm thinking about picking one up - will check it out and review.
Solid state relays are deceptive in the size of the resistive load they can handle
 
I had built a heat treating furnace with equipment from Omega and it worked great. Lasted years, I sold it and as far as I know it’s still cooking.
I think it was about$80 for the PID
 
I bought my lee 20lb pot used years ago. Finally decided to empty it completely and give it s good cleaning.
Im actually surprised how clean it was . Cranked it up all the way. Casted the last few lbs of Flashing alloy into 45cal round ball and dumped the rest out.
Cleared out the bottom spout and will lap the stopper before re assembly FE82D1E9-D165-4D1F-B009-E8A17C61D623.jpeg F7A08BC1-90FC-4136-984D-7CF1978583D7.jpeg AD359B9C-904D-406E-A334-A8C5C973A328.jpeg

Gave it a good warm bath of dish soap and steel wool. Lapped the bottom pour spout and now my FAUX Lyman #2 is melting away.
 
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Cast some 200 grain 357s for the 350 Legend and cast some 375s for a friend.
coated and sized!
I’m going to test gas check vs. non gas check in the Legend to see if I have acceptable accuracy without them.
Should be good enough for ringing some steel.
Last week the loads I was working with were pitching a 200 grain bullet 1800+ FPS
 
1st time reloading cast for my Savage 99 in 308. Barrel was slugged to .3085. Mold is a Lee C309-170-FN. Alloy of about 9-10 BHN (pencil hardness test), dropped at .309", 173gr. Three coats of candy apple red Hi Tek. Gas checked and sized to .309. Brass trimmed to 2.007 and expanded the neck just enough not to shave the bullet. Bullets seated to crimp groove. I was going to seat GC to neck base but GCs are on tight and figured I would start there. Light crimp (Lee collet). Started at 10gr of Unique and worked up to 12gr. Plan on testing on Monday.
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Was able to test these loads today but only at 50 yards because I had my daughter shooting her Crickett on the same range at 20. 10gr of Unique were very enjoyable to shoot, almost like a 22lr. No leading at all. Accuracy was as good as I am, especially since I haven't shot this rifle for over a year. Next time I get out by myself, will see how they performed at 100 yards. I have already deprimed amd sized the brass and the brass is still at 2.007, so no case stretching with this load. I am really pleased.
 
Was able to test these loads today but only at 50 yards because I had my daughter shooting her Crickett on the same range at 20. 10gr of Unique were very enjoyable to shoot, almost like a 22lr. No leading at all. Accuracy was as good as I am, especially since I haven't shot this rifle for over a year. Next time I get out by myself, will see how they performed at 100 yards. I have already deprimed amd sized the brass and the brass is still at 2.007, so no case stretching with this load. I am really pleased.

you should try a round ball load
 
Curious how this works with seating the ball. Do you smear it in lube or would you coat it with hi tek? Would you size it down so it isn't a true ball and the sizing elongates it?
It can be done a few ways. You can press an oversized ball into the case mouth. Seeing as it’s a ball it’s very easy to swage down during firing. Say .330” which is about the nominal bullet size plus the brass thickness. This was common back when and can be seen in things like the .22 BB Caps

You can also seat a regular sized ball into the case mouth just below the halfway point and roll crimp into place. .310“

Lastly you can use an oversized ball like the .330” or a .360” down to say .310” which gives more bearing surface that in turn helps with neck tension and powder burn.


I prefer to HiTek coat them if they’re loaded with round balls of nominal size. The tumble lube applied to a .310” round ball has too little bearing surface and can be pushed deeper by hand. No good for powder burn.

If I load it the first or last method then the tumble lube works fine.
 
It can be done a few ways. You can press an oversized ball into the case mouth. Seeing as it’s a ball it’s very easy to swage down during firing. Say .330” which is about the nominal bullet size plus the brass thickness. This was common back when and can be seen in things like the .22 BB Caps

You can also seat a regular sized ball into the case mouth just below the halfway point and roll crimp into place. .310“

Lastly you can use an oversized ball like the .330” or a .360” down to say .310” which gives more bearing surface that in turn helps with neck tension and powder burn.


I prefer to HiTek coat them if they’re loaded with round balls of nominal size. The tumble lube applied to a .310” round ball has too little bearing surface and can be pushed deeper by hand. No good for powder burn.

If I load it the first or last method then the tumble lube works fine.
Maybe at the 2020 Casting Seminar, I could cast some for a try.
 
Thinking maybe Wednesday or Thursday working on some casts loads for the 8mm. I have some already casted and coated. Just need to size and possibly gas check. Been hitting the range and I haven’t had much time to play. Did load up a couple hundred 38’s for the kid to shoot in his revolver. I really want to get back to the 200 grain semi wad cutters for my 1911. No matter how bad the day a couple of mags through that puts a smile on my face.
 
have you actually used these? I see a short life or melt down with cheap relay?
anyhow should be doing a PID box at some point.
Im just unsure of what to use as far as any amp requiremwnts and temp ranges of all associated parts?
Ordered the following:

Everything should be in by 3 July - should have a hacked together controller shortly after

I didn't get the one with the heatsink because they were showing a 2 month delivery time - wanted to test this out and I can use an old CPU heatsink to cool the SSR.
 
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finally found the time to take these to the range for the first test. Loaded them with HP38 3.8-4.1. So with two different color batches I ran them separate and no leading in either test case. Now to tune them for accuracy which I think will be around 3.9. Just glad I had no leading and to date this has been the cleanest run. And 6 cent 9mm rounds are pretty nice. I have a few milliliters of color left so I might jump back to my 200 grain SWC. 6C36F053-ABF8-4351-9A05-C619D2F589AC.jpeg
 
Might be the last time the smelting pot gets fired up for some time. Down to my last bit of Stick On Wheel Wheights (SOWW) and some range scrap and other odds and ends. Had to try the new molds
All I have left that is not in muffingots is some of these.... I will Test for hardness in a few days. For the most part anything that comes in at 8 bhn or less is put in the "pure/soft" pile to be blended with other alloys.
37lbs of range scrap and other odds and ends
AVAuoxym.jpg


9lbs of Stick on wheel weights on the left 35lbs of Range Scrap on the Right.
YYm03TPl.jpg

6/28 UPDATE: Bhn alloy hardness test with art pencils The SOWW(stick on wheel weights) came at 6 bhn and the RS (Range Scrap) came in at 9

So all of my "alloy" but 4 of these lead collars and 2 of these containers is now in ignot form and sorted ready for a few years of casting.
SJWHAKJl.jpg

These collars are 97% lead and 3% Antimony

fgGg5OQl.jpg

Im going to gander these are close to the collars in alloy content.

I use these to mark other info on my ignots. I like to stamp aprox BHN on the ignots. The larger ones I use at work to stamp cylinder heads/bearing caps ectect
Amazon product ASIN B07YHNMTL5View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YHNMTL5/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07YHNMTL5&linkCode=as2&tag=1911johnmac-20&linkId=dfb8369923ab8ce4f183dafd9de6e51a

Amazon product ASIN B079YVYM4YView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079YVYM4Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=1911johnmac-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B079YVYM4Y&linkId=badc42b2c99337eba7a750ca27a4ee9a
 
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Might be the last time the smelting pot gets fired up for some time. Down to my last bit of Stick On Wheel Wheights (SOWW) and some range scrap and other odds and ends. Had to try the new molds
All I have left that is not in muffingots is some of these.... I will Test for hardness in a few days. For the most part anything that comes in at 8 bhn or less is put in the "pure/soft" pile to be blended with other alloys.
37lbs of range scrap and other odds and ends
AVAuoxym.jpg


9lbs of Stick on wheel weights on the left 35lbs of Range Scrap on the Right.
YYm03TPl.jpg


So all of my "alloy" but 4 of these lead collars and 2 of these containers is now in ignot form and sorted ready for a few years of casting.
SJWHAKJl.jpg

These collars are 97% lead and 3% Antimony

fgGg5OQl.jpg

Im going to gander these are close to the collars in alloy content.

I use these to mark other info on my ignots. I like to stamp aprox BHN on the ignots. The larger ones I use at work to stamp cylinder heads/bearing caps ectect
Amazon product ASIN B07YHNMTL5View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YHNMTL5/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07YHNMTL5&linkCode=as2&tag=1911johnmac-20&linkId=dfb8369923ab8ce4f183dafd9de6e51a

Amazon product ASIN B079YVYM4YView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079YVYM4Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=1911johnmac-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B079YVYM4Y&linkId=badc42b2c99337eba7a750ca27a4ee9a
Are those some type of isotope containers?
 
I’ll bring a bunch of RB moulds. I like them so much that I’ve acquired most common sizes.

I know I’ve posted this before on other threads but my 45/70 triple round ball load is so much fun to shoot. View attachment 367372
Can you post a pic of a target next time you shoot one with these?

I still need to load a round like this. Maybe when I buy a BFR revovler.
 
Question about coating, I never cast for handguns, but I have been thinking about casting 9mm, and everything else I dont coat it.

Do handguns run into a lot of leading issues if you dont coat it?

It all depends on the cartridge. Higher pressure cartridges can have issues for sure.

You just need to use some tricks to get around it.
I ran 9mm with no issues with tumble lube, traditional lube and coating.
I had issues at first but that was due to too much neck tension on a soft bullet. This cause under sized bullets which would tumble and lead. Hardening up the bullets made sure that they would not get squished down under neck tension.
Some guys just use a larger expander but I didn’t feel like having one made for my Dillon.

Other than that so far I haven’t had issues with leading as long as I use the proper diameter bullet.

For example in my 1911 if I ran .451” bullets after a mag I would have so much lead it was hard to see the rifling. Same for .452” bullets.
Step up to .453” and I can shoot that gun all I want with zero lead in the bore. Literally thousands of rounds without ever passing a brush down the bore.
 
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