Cleaning Question

Chris

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Round Gun Shooter or other revolver shooters.

One of the real tough parts to clean is around the forcing cone and the business end of the cylinder around the chambers. All my stainless guns have dark marks in this area that I can't seem to remove. I can clean them up quite a bit, but not rid them totally

Ideas? Or is this just something you have to live with?

(and please no Harry Potter jokes about the dark mark)
 
I'm getting the impression that a lot of people just leave the "blast stains" on
their revolvers. I sent my 686 to S+W for an action job and while they
cleaned it out, the blast marks were still there. Before I tried getting rid
of them with a lead away cloth.... and while it worked good with a lot of elbow
grease, I can't say I'm ever going to bother doing it again, as it took way too
much time for what only seems like getting rid of a cosmetic blemish.

RGS or some others probably have a -faster- way to do it.

-Mike
 
I usually just leave them. However, when I want to get rid of them, I use MPro7 and a bronze brush (not a round bore brush - I use a bronze wire brush about the size of a toothbrush).
 
I use a stainless steel parts brush.(tooth brush) and JB Bore cleaner.

I will give you a pic real soon before and after. I was looking for an excuse to clean my 8 shot [wink]

Gary
 
See how long it takes?????

Before

8shotcylinder001.jpg


After

8shotcylinder005.jpg


Now I am off to the range for a little rifle practice. Don't forget Pelham Saturday [smile]
 
A lead away cloth wipes it right off. It's probably the same as a wonder cloth. Keep it away from bluing.
Around the forcing cone, wrap the lead away cloth around the tip of a screwdriver.
Or, just leave it there.
 
Cleaning Qeustion

I shoot my revolvers weekly. The best method I have come up with is this.

Step 1: start with a copper chore boy scrub pad or a copper cleaning brush and no solvent. I use this to get the heavy carbon fouling off the cylinder face.

Step 2: I wet a peice of paper towel with some cleaning solvent and wipe away the carbon and other mess still on the cylinder face. Followed by dry paper towel until the cylinder face is dry.

Step 3: Take either a wonder cloth or a metal magic cloth. Rub the cynlinder face with the cloth and this will take the rest of the fouling off. Using the cloth over the end of a wood dowel will help get into the tight spots.

Step 4: Clean the chambers and barrel as normal.

repeat this procedure for the forcing cone.

This is the best way I have found to get rid of the dark marks.

Hope this helps.

M.J.

P.S.: This procdure is for Stainless guns. Dont use the wonder cloth or metal magic cloth on blued guns. Both will take the bluing off.
 
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For the fouling I just use a bigger bronze brush. For the dark markings, when I feel like it, I use a bronze brush with MPro and it works wonders.
 
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