Frog Lube. Any Users?

I'm still working on the $6 quart of Mobil 1 I bought 3 years ago and I got to be the worst when it comes to cleaning. Once a year and a wipe down with a disposable gun wipe going into the safe. No problems at all with Mobil 1.
Frog lube is for Miss Piggy when she's in a dominate mood!
kermit.jpg
 
I'm still working on the $6 quart of Mobil 1 I bought 3 years ago and I got to be the worst when it comes to cleaning. Once a year and a wipe down with a disposable gun wipe going into the safe. No problems at all with Mobil 1.
Frog lube is for Miss Piggy when she's in a dominate mood!
View attachment 105797

I shudder to think of what you had to Google to find that picture.
 
I forget if I already said this or not, but I executed my tub (actually another NESer executed it for me) after having numerous FrogLube-induced failures. The stuff went rancid in my guns and turned to the consistency of dry maple syrup. I'm now in the process of cleaning that sticky mess out of all of my guns and replacing it with regular oil.
 
I forget if I already said this or not, but I executed my tub (actually another NESer executed it for me) after having numerous FrogLube-induced failures. The stuff went rancid in my guns and turned to the consistency of dry maple syrup. I'm now in the process of cleaning that sticky mess out of all of my guns and replacing it with regular oil.

It blowed up real good.
 
EC Didn't you say in the past you wouldn't use frog lube on a frog with Vaginitis? or was it another NES member?
I wouldn't use it on a frog or another NES member with vaginal dryness.

I was being sarcastic with my "directions" comment. It's an overpriced gimmick.
 
just wanted to revive this thread and seek some input regarding froglube.

so a few months back I received a froglube sample of the paste. i indeed followed directions prior to applying to several semi-autos (degreased with simple green, isopropanol, heated up the metal parts, avoided applying paste into striker channel obviously. it seemed to adhere just fine and do an excellent job with respect to lubrication.

however, i've bumped into two issues with this product which I know have been discussed elsewhere but i'm interested to hear everyone's feedback + opinions:

1. cold conditions. to do a simple test, i froglube'ed a hot 1911 slide (avoiding the firing pin obviously), allowed it to cool to room temp and then wiped off excess froglube. while it seemed nice and slick at room temp, i went ahead and cooled it in the refridgerator to 4C/32F and it became much more sticky feeling. a few minutes in the freezer and it felt sticky as shit.

2. gumming up the firing assembly, extractor or other critical areas. i've done my best to keep the froglube out of my firing pin channel, but i'm concerned that after repeated cleanings of any gun there could be accumulation of froglube under the extractor, around firing pin, basicallly in sensitive areas that i don't want to get gummed up and cause a failure. i've heard this from multiple other people and i attributed it to them applying too much froglube. however, given my experiment with cold conditions, i don't think it would take much froglube to obstruct a firing pin or extractor.

previously i used ballistol and Slip 2000 EWL liquid and/or grease....with this combination i have no fears of ballistol causing anything to gum up. even if it seeps into the firing channel or under extractor it's never been an issue for me. the slip 2000 always stayed put nicely on the rails and high contact areas, and seemed nicely miscible with the ballistol (as opposed to a petroleum product).

anyway, i'm moving back to my ballistol + slip2000 system....just kinda wondering what other's have observed WRT froglube and specifically my observations + concerns above.

thanks peeps.
 
just wanted to revive this thread and seek some input regarding froglube.

so a few months back I received a froglube sample of the paste. i indeed followed directions prior to applying to several semi-autos (degreased with simple green, isopropanol, heated up the metal parts, avoided applying paste into striker channel obviously. it seemed to adhere just fine and do an excellent job with respect to lubrication.

however, i've bumped into two issues with this product which I know have been discussed elsewhere but i'm interested to hear everyone's feedback + opinions:

1. cold conditions. to do a simple test, i froglube'ed a hot 1911 slide (avoiding the firing pin obviously), allowed it to cool to room temp and then wiped off excess froglube. while it seemed nice and slick at room temp, i went ahead and cooled it in the refridgerator to 4C/32F and it became much more sticky feeling. a few minutes in the freezer and it felt sticky as shit.

2. gumming up the firing assembly, extractor or other critical areas. i've done my best to keep the froglube out of my firing pin channel, but i'm concerned that after repeated cleanings of any gun there could be accumulation of froglube under the extractor, around firing pin, basicallly in sensitive areas that i don't want to get gummed up and cause a failure. i've heard this from multiple other people and i attributed it to them applying too much froglube. however, given my experiment with cold conditions, i don't think it would take much froglube to obstruct a firing pin or extractor.

previously i used ballistol and Slip 2000 EWL liquid and/or grease....with this combination i have no fears of ballistol causing anything to gum up. even if it seeps into the firing channel or under extractor it's never been an issue for me. the slip 2000 always stayed put nicely on the rails and high contact areas, and seemed nicely miscible with the ballistol (as opposed to a petroleum product).

anyway, i'm moving back to my ballistol + slip2000 system....just kinda wondering what other's have observed WRT froglube and specifically my observations + concerns above.

thanks peeps.

TLDR: don't slather your gun in roller coaster grease.
 
just wanted to revive this thread and seek some input regarding froglube.

so a few months back I received a froglube sample of the paste. i indeed followed directions prior to applying to several semi-autos (degreased with simple green, isopropanol, heated up the metal parts, avoided applying paste into striker channel obviously. it seemed to adhere just fine and do an excellent job with respect to lubrication.

however, i've bumped into two issues with this product which I know have been discussed elsewhere but i'm interested to hear everyone's feedback + opinions:

1. cold conditions. to do a simple test, i froglube'ed a hot 1911 slide (avoiding the firing pin obviously), allowed it to cool to room temp and then wiped off excess froglube. while it seemed nice and slick at room temp, i went ahead and cooled it in the refridgerator to 4C/32F and it became much more sticky feeling. a few minutes in the freezer and it felt sticky as shit.

2. gumming up the firing assembly, extractor or other critical areas. i've done my best to keep the froglube out of my firing pin channel, but i'm concerned that after repeated cleanings of any gun there could be accumulation of froglube under the extractor, around firing pin, basicallly in sensitive areas that i don't want to get gummed up and cause a failure. i've heard this from multiple other people and i attributed it to them applying too much froglube. however, given my experiment with cold conditions, i don't think it would take much froglube to obstruct a firing pin or extractor.

previously i used ballistol and Slip 2000 EWL liquid and/or grease....with this combination i have no fears of ballistol causing anything to gum up. even if it seeps into the firing channel or under extractor it's never been an issue for me. the slip 2000 always stayed put nicely on the rails and high contact areas, and seemed nicely miscible with the ballistol (as opposed to a petroleum product).

anyway, i'm moving back to my ballistol + slip2000 system....just kinda wondering what other's have observed WRT froglube and specifically my observations + concerns above.

thanks peeps.

Repeat after me, MOBIL 1 !!!
 
I use synthetic motor oil, not because it is better than the "super lubes", but because it is just as good for a lot less $. "Break Free", one of my favorite super lubes, at your local GS is about $6 for four oz. Expensive synthetic motor oil is $10 for 32 oz. Do the math.

I have been using synthetic for well over ten years and can't find any difference, except in price. Synthetic motor oil is also available in many viscosities, allowing you to tailor your lube to your gun. I prefer 0w/20 for cranky 22 rimfire semi autos.
 
Yes my beloved Slip 2000 EWL feels and looks like synthetic motor oil....so Im pretty sure you people are onto something. When my stash of EWL runs out I will try some Mobil 1 synthetic....i am guessing the EWL equivalent would be something thick.
 
Yes my beloved Slip 2000 EWL feels and looks like synthetic motor oil....so Im pretty sure you people are onto something. When my stash of EWL runs out I will try some Mobil 1 synthetic....i am guessing the EWL equivalent would be something thick.

It doesn't have to be Mobil 1 - any motor oil will do.
 
I use Rem-oil on everything, for everything. Just spray, and wipe (insert perv joke here). Ive never had rust, jam, corrosion, gunk, dried shit, discoloration, or anything. All my guns look and run like a dream. Just my $0.2
 
Yes my beloved Slip 2000 EWL feels and looks like synthetic motor oil....so Im pretty sure you people are onto something. When my stash of EWL runs out I will try some Mobil 1 synthetic....i am guessing the EWL equivalent would be something thick.

I have found that 20W50 is pretty close to commercial gun oil )Break Free for example) in viscosity.
 
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