German Mausers- What to look for in a good shooter?

Mountain

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I'll be looking for a German Mauser, perhaps in the next two years or earlier if a trade works out for my Finn M39. No hurry at all for this:

As usual, my #1 criteria is a good shooter. How nice should the bore be? Any way to measure throat and muzzle? Any other important points regarding Mauser accuracy?

#2 criteria is that it should look decent and be mostly matching or at least mostly correct. Dirty bird era only, though other than that I don't care about the year. No nasty looking pitted areas.

#3 Future collectible value. Not looking for 'investment' LOL, just so I don't lose my shirt in case I sell someday. Not looking for an Argentine 'German' Mauser etc., just 'German' German.

What makes, years, models, and prices should I be looking at? Thanks in advance NES!
 
Cheapest German-German is a Mitchell Mauser. I know most - including me, bash them for their deceptive practices - but they're arsenal refurbished and make a great shooter if you don't care about collectibility or resale.

Deja-Vu. I think I wrote a reply just like this 7 or 8 years ago.

More collectible is the RC. Maligned by some, they are a fairly cheap way to get a Mauser that has been reconditioned in an 'historically accurate way'. They're no longer $250, but $500 and up. The RC I just got was a way to get a ZF41 ready Mauser at 1/3 the cost of a matched piece. I had enough left over for an original score and mount (heads up, a reproduction mount will NOT fit an original ZF base).

Bolt mismatch is the first 'collectible level' to me. My S/42g bolt MM cost 1/2 of a full matching piece for this rare early code.

Then there are full matching pieces that range from rough to safe queens - I have both types - from about $1200 for a common code to $8000 for a pristine G, K date, Erma, or BSW.

Most basic criteria is a good bore and crown. For a RC, you can tweak the action and stock fitting to make it shoot better. Most common codes are from 1944; either a Mauser (byf) or a Brno, CZ (DOT).

T

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthr...-restore-accuracy-to-your-Russian-capture-98k
 

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Thanks majspud. Had to think for a moment about what was RC. Russian capture, just like some of my kin were back in the day. Nice link, too.

Though the good shooter part is tempting, I have heard the negs about Mitchell. Maybe 2nd hand so it's not going in their pocket. RC sounds like a possibility. Nice to know that there are indeed shooter grades out there.
 
I can't really tell you what's good or bad but I like shooters.
Here's my entry into mauser land.
Several years ago I set out to pick up a rifle from all the players of WWII to use in CMP games. I took a chance on this 250$ RC.
Seller said the bore was very good...not so much.
Well I bought it anyway. I seldom see any good shooter mausers locally. Any way some links in here and maybe a few things that might help.
https://www.northeastshooters.com/v...or-a-dark-bore-K98?highlight=dark+crusty+bore
 
I'm lucky enough to have in my safe K98 bring backs from both my grandfather and my wife's grandfather. One is a BYF43 (Grandpa's hunting rifle until he was too old to hunt), and a BYF44. Both all matching.
 
I'm lucky enough to have in my safe K98 bring backs from both my grandfather and my wife's grandfather. One is a BYF43 (Grandpa's hunting rifle until he was too old to hunt), and a BYF44. Both all matching.

Since the country is going socialist, you must share one with me. I'll even wear a Razorback shirt, but not if they're playing LSU.

Seriously, that's pretty awesome. My Grandfather's bring-backs included a really nice Arisaka (maybe sniper) and a now 512 year old samurai sword. They are still in the family.
 
If the Mitchell's is not a consideration (and it shouldn't be), then Majspud has given the RC as the best option.

But if you'd like an un-captured specimen, then don't rule out a bolt mismatched German Mauser. There are also some guns called "Turds", which have been bubba'd with fake numbers. They are still in the reasonable shooter price range. Anything with an original matched bolt starts creeping toward $1,000, and fully original matched are soaring out of sight, these days.
 
Vacation day today plus raining = road trip, 20 minute drive to Pack and Postal if they are open. I did recently sell one of my Mosins and have a little extra pocket cash so who knows, maybe I'll see a nice RC or otherwise a K31. No rush, so may end up just window shopping.
 
I really have to get there someday; but it's a 2 hour drive for me. If open, please give us an inventory report.

T
 
I should add restored sporter to the list. This is usually a GI bring back that was altered into a hunting rifle by cutting down/and or heavily sanding the stock. In the process, the fore end, band/s, and sometimes the hand guard was lost. These rifles were 'restored' by replacing the stock and necessary metal. These can be bolt mm or matched. I recently came across a beautiful S/42 matched piece that had been cut down, engraved, bolt diamond polished, and drilled for a scope. Worth more in parts. In the past few years restoring meant using a Norwegian leave behind stock. The Germans left behind more than 250,000 rifles in Norway after WW2. They were uses in the military and then the Boy Scouts from the 1960's to about 1995. The 'Green' party game to power and decommissioned/scrapped/ sold the rifles or the parts onto the collectors parts. This has mostly dried up, but it was a great source while it lasted. It's niche is between a RC and a bolt MM.

T

I should add that this is where 'humping' or fakery starts to show up in a serious way to pass them off as legit matching pieces.

I slot the sported here as it has the balance of its original parts and has a smooth less and quality a RC can't match.
 
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Vacation day today plus raining = road trip, 20 minute drive to Pack and Postal if they are open. I did recently sell one of my Mosins and have a little extra pocket cash so who knows, maybe I'll see a nice RC or otherwise a K31. No rush, so may end up just window shopping.

we really need a inventory report from this place... the guy needs to post some where I can actually find and see. where ever he suposly advertises is as mystical as unicorns.
I would pay to have items shipped to a more local dealer if I new what he had! have not been there in 10 years now......i was kinda broke then. now I got a little fun money but no time to get up there
 
we really need a inventory report from this place... the guy needs to post some where I can actually find and see. where ever he suposly advertises is as mystical as unicorns.
I would pay to have items shipped to a more local dealer if I new what he had! have not been there in 10 years now......i was kinda broke then. now I got a little fun money but no time to get up there

I did make it to Pack and Postal. Joe is the nicest guy to be found and I concur with everyone who says he is a wealth of knowledge. Another nice guy was in there & if Joe wasn't versed in a particular gun, that guy was. Definitely an old school vibe and the 'mystery' of the inventory adds some fun to the visit. My interest in milsurp begins and ends with 'shooters', so a definite case of me not knowing what I'm looking at. The best way I can describe the inventory is pull the super high end stuff out of an Amoskeag catalog (General so-and-so's presentation grade XYZ, etc.) and that's pretty much what you see.

No Mausers of any type, nor any K31's. He did have a very nice Schmidt-Rubin M1896 and K1911. Dozens of Luger P08's. I'll add a little more to the thread on Pack and Postal.
 
I've been reading up on Mausers for a month or two now since I'd really like one. What's the going rate for an RC in "good condition"? $450? $550? More? I haven't really seen any marketed as RCs. Just in general, not having good luck.

I think a lot of people would love an all/mostly matching German K98 for the collection but I don't think I'd be capable of affording one unless you get that mythical "he didn't know what he had" scenario.

I may end up the Yugo M48 route instead.
 
You need to know the characteristics of a RC. EP'd parts matching the original SN on the bolt and bolt parts, stamped SN on the left side of the butt stock, EP'd bands, floor plate, mismatched bolts, dull hot dipped blue finish, and an 'x' stamped on the receiver. Any rifle may or may not have all of these features, but many. See my recently posted AR42 ZF41.

A Yugo M48 would be the cheapest 8mm option; readily available. I would go for a RC if you can.

T
 
The Yugos are for the most part some of the nicest conditions I seen. Kicking myself for not buying a few from the Old Wideners. They where 250$ and like new.
Few guys down the club bought some and all are very very nice. Even have really small import marks. They all shoot well with them.
 
You need to know the characteristics of a RC. EP'd parts matching the original SN on the bolt and bolt parts, stamped SN on the left side of the butt stock, EP'd bands, floor plate, mismatched bolts, dull hot dipped blue finish, and an 'x' stamped on the receiver. Any rifle may or may not have all of these features, but many. See my recently posted AR42 ZF41.

A Yugo M48 would be the cheapest 8mm option; readily available. I would go for a RC if you can.

T

Thanks for the info. I knew about the x stamp and the finishing, but not all the additional characteristics. From what I've read, the Yugos do tend to be in nice condition as a result of being mostly packed away. The crest, to me, is fairly attractive. They don't hold quite the same history though. Where, generally speaking, do you have the best luck with milsurps? I don't tend to see a lot of them in stores (maybe the odd Mosin or SKS), and buying online I'd be a little concerned about not inspecting in person, but I guess the pros there outweigh the cons, and you could always ask for lots of questions and photographs.

I did see your post in the acquisitions thread. You always post great stuff.
 
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