I'm premium only. I'm a long time holder. I don't buy one day and sell the next (or near future). All my holdings will be enjoyed by my survivors.
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Gold and silver prices are down
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I'm premium only. I'm a long time holder. I don't buy one day and sell the next (or near future). All my holdings will be enjoyed by my survivors.
Well I maxed out at 10 and I can't get more damn
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True, but do you really think your heirs will get the same price for a 1oz proprietary round or bar than they will get for a legal tender issue like an Eagle or Maple?
The same issue - spread is (sell price-buy price) exists no matter when you sell.
Don't know if they will or will not get the same price. I guess it will be determined by the "health" of America's finances. Who knows what added value, if any, will exist at the time they decide to sell. A minted US coin may only have smelt value. One never knows. I do know that it is highly probable that the units will be worth more than I have invested and for them, it will all be profit.
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There are two issues any buyer is going to be concerned with:
- Authenticity/purity. Try selling a generic silver or gold bar and you may have to pay an assay fee. Even if there is only smelt value to a coin, you are going to have a relatively easy time proving it is as the represented purity level.
- Marketability. Brokers have an easier time reselling legal tender coins than off-brand proprietaries and bulk silver, and this is reflected in what they are willing to pay. Known bars like Englehard, J&M, and some of the more popular private mints like Apmex and Sunshine may have a decent market.
Likely
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Generic metals can and should be part of your PM portfolio. Know what you're buying and who your buying from and you will sleep well at night.
Meaning; don't buy a Santa Claus round off ebay.
These are all kind of what I was asking here:
I'm still not entirely sure I have the answer, but I have an inkling. One person with an answer and another kind of agreeing is not really a consensus for me. I'd want to be SURE sure before heading down that path.
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I am still a newbie to this, but one thing I have noticed. Single coins seem to come in cases, while bulk coins purchases seem to come in rolls. Does the latter cause any problems?
the_shootist
Banned
Generic metals can and should be part of your PM portfolio. Know what you're buying and who your buying from and you will sleep well at night.
Meaning; don't buy a Santa Claus round off ebay.
^^^THIS^^^^
the_shootist
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Damn well put and spot on in my case!!!!
the_shootist
Banned
Correct!!! Today that seems right, and I agree in almost every circumstance. The caveat there is if things get to the level that the worth of silver is its weight,(unlikely unless society goes into major meltdown) it's not going to matter whose picture is on an ounce of silver.
Isn't this EXACTLY the case? Do you not purchase by the ounce, gram, or whatever?
Of course its worth is its weight. What else is there?
allen-1
NES Member
provenance; or perhaps "acceptance" is a better term?
If I hand you an American Silver Eagle, you're probably going to be able to evaluate it and make a reasonable determination if it's real or counterfeit, likewise for a Sunshine round. If I hand you a totally unknown round, you may be less willing or unwilling to accept it.
Obviously the above statement is very situation dependent, "you" could be an individual I'm trying to barter with, a coin shop owner, a private dealer, ??? You may have access to scales, acid, comparison coins, years of experience...
Hey everyone, I don't want to hijack this thread but I wanted to give the folks here an opportunity at some decent prices before I sell elsewhere.
I have 4 sealed rolls of ASE and 4 sealed rolls of Maples that I am looking to sell to free up some cash. Please PM if seriously interested rather than responding here. Thanks, Randy
All rolls are currently spoken for.
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I have 4 sealed rolls of ASE and 4 sealed rolls of Maples that I am looking to sell to free up some cash. Please PM if seriously interested rather than responding here. Thanks, Randy
All rolls are currently spoken for.
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Just found a 2001 roll of silver eagles on eBay for $380+$5 shipping. This is my first roll, and I know I paid quite a bit over spot, but I've noticed the older coins tend to go for quite a bit more sometimes.
Did I waste some money, or was this a solid investment?
Did I waste some money, or was this a solid investment?
Billsail
NES Member
The only business strike (non proof) silver eagles that carry any sort of numismatic premium is 1996. '86 and '94 may demand a very slight premium. They ALL have the exact same bullion value.
The older ones are sold to people trying to complete collections, thus the sellers gouge a bit.
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I guess what I paid is still around what 2015's are selling for right now, so it can't be all that bad. Either way, some silver is better than no silver, right?
I have to chime I here. I buy eagles, gold and silver, because they are easily recognizable. Do I pay more, now? Yes. But later I'll pay or lose less, selling or trading them.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Pretty good price on these...
2015 Austrian Silver Philharmonic Coin (BU)
Any Quantity Available for Only $2.29 Over Spot!
2015 Austrian Silver Philharmonic Coin (BU)
Any Quantity Available for Only $2.29 Over Spot!
It says 'Wiener'. Heh heh heh.
But seriously, that is a nice deal on a gov issued coin.
But seriously, that is a nice deal on a gov issued coin.
CoastieRon
NES Member
I have a bunch of the philharmonic coins.
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So, which is it?
This?
or this?
... and why? Or why not?
Seems like differing schools of thought here.
This?
or this?
Pretty good price on these...
2015 Austrian Silver Philharmonic Coin (BU)
Any Quantity Available for Only $2.29 Over Spot!
... and why? Or why not?
Seems like differing schools of thought here.
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CoastieRon
NES Member
Right now, I've been just buying government issued coins. I find the Philharmonics to be usually the least expensive on JM, have the same amount of silver as other coins, and are aesthetically pleasing. Then again, anything on sale is cool with me. I like the Armenian Noah's Arks too.
I haven't started collecting just rounds yet.
the_shootist
Banned
I collect real silver with pretty pictures on them....as long as the bullion is real I'm happy
A lot of it comes down to when and where you envision yourself selling. Disclaimer - I have zero experience or actual knowledge of selling silver.
From what I have read, dealers (like Boston Bullion) typically have set prices above (or below) spot that they will pay for silver. They might pay 75 cents below spot for generic rounds, and $1 above spot for govt. issued coins. This should apply to any of these, Eagles, Maples, Libertads, Britannias, Aussie, etc... If your plan is to buy low, sell high, and use a reputable dealer, then buy accordingly.
If you are a doomsday type, and believe you will someday be trading silver coins for bushels of corn, then you will need to convince the corn-guy that your silver is legitimate. In that case, Eagles and Maples might give an advantage over something from the other side of the world that he has never seen. Or generic rounds might be just fine, as an ounce of silver is an ounce of silver.
In my mind, I usually consider the Boston Bullion scenario. They tend to value gov issued coins at $1.50-$2.00 more than generic, so if I can buy gov silver for less than $2.50 over spot, I consider that a good deal.
How do you guys buy your junk silver? And are the prices on eBay pretty much the going rate (ie $150 for $10 face value of coins)...just seems crazy that I could pay a little more and get silver eagles at .999 pure for similar face value.
JayMcB
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The junk silver fits in with the barter scenario too. A .gov issued silver quarter with the patina of age on it is pretty hard to counterfeit
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