Snagged a used Ruger Wrangler. Trigger is a bit heavy. HBR any of you done anything to make lighten or clean up the triggers in your wranglers? Know of any decent spring kits?
At $150, I can’t complain….
At $150, I can’t complain….
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Ruger Wrangler - trigger work?
- Thread starter 45Badger
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Mine smoothed out after about 450 rounds. It is perfect now. Perfect.
Think of those first boxfuls as Cost of Doing Business.
It also gets you to really know your firearm, until it is an extension of your arm and handling/firing/loading/aiming it becomes second-nature.
My only issues with it were:
~Needed a splotch of bright white Testors Enamel paint in the front sight to increase shootability. Did wonders for target acquisition...
~No lube on the section of the base pin and base pin latch that contact each other. Just a very light pass inside the cylinder bore and rear-ward tip of the base pin.
(an over-lubed base pin can slide forward and out of the cylinder sometimes.
I've got over 1200 rounds through it now... flawless.
How "used" was it?
Think of those first boxfuls as Cost of Doing Business.
It also gets you to really know your firearm, until it is an extension of your arm and handling/firing/loading/aiming it becomes second-nature.
My only issues with it were:
~Needed a splotch of bright white Testors Enamel paint in the front sight to increase shootability. Did wonders for target acquisition...
~No lube on the section of the base pin and base pin latch that contact each other. Just a very light pass inside the cylinder bore and rear-ward tip of the base pin.
(an over-lubed base pin can slide forward and out of the cylinder sometimes.
I've got over 1200 rounds through it now... flawless.
How "used" was it?
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I made my trigger pull lighter by doing what's in this youtube video; just unhooking one leg of the trigger spring to lighten the pull.
I also did an operation to make the stupid loading gate easier to open, which involved taking absolutely everything apart to find and open up the
spring for that, but it worked fine. I don't recommend that unless you've got plenty of time and the stiff loading gate really annoys you (which it did).
Taking apart the hammer spring was a pain and the least of the difficulty there.
I bought two last year, one for my wife and one for me. I've run several dozen rounds through mine but she hasn't shot hers yet. I bought them during the time that we were moving out here so we haven't much time to shoot. I'm looking to put a small .22 range up this spring.
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It’s a rimfire so I would not lighten the mainspring or one risks light strikes. Further, for a single action firearm lightening the mainspring is the worst way to get a “better” trigger and rarely works. Let a competent smith work on the hammer and sear. Or just put snap caps / wall anchors in cylinder and dry fire the snot out of it…..that will help the surfaces mate. People are mentioning live fire round count which is IRRELEVANT…it’s a revolver so nothing moves after the shot breaks….how am I having to explain this on a gun forum SMH.
Ruger’s casting and MIM parts are rough as shit but a good smith can nicely slick up the action without dicking up spring weights. Tim Gostling (former G&N Gunsmithing) was excellent at this but his business is long gone so i have no recommendations.
Ruger’s casting and MIM parts are rough as shit but a good smith can nicely slick up the action without dicking up spring weights. Tim Gostling (former G&N Gunsmithing) was excellent at this but his business is long gone so i have no recommendations.
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If "lightly used" the trigger is most likely not broken in. In just a few short days of range shooting, mine became slick as snot and the groups tightened up greatly. The cost? The ammo I would have shot anyway...
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I saw that video too and pulled my stocks to check it out. I did as in the vid by removing one leg from the pin (right side in my case) It did soften the trigger a lot, but I cycled the hammer a few times and found the spring was rubbing the main spring on hammer back. I did not like this contact.
So, I put the spring back where it was. It has become much lighter with break in. The loading gate is much easier now too.
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I absolutely love this little revolver. It eats everything... even the no-fires from my 10-22. (I usually bring both to the range a make it a 2-hour lovefest) ![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
I've also been taking my Ruger LCR II in .22lr that I bought from Carl at Four Seasons. I love that thing as much as the revolver. Very nice shooter. Zero issues and eats any Hi-Velo I put in it.
Super accurate with the CCI AR TAC .22LR.
(Carl had 300 of them when I bought 2 weeks ago. Paid $319 +tax)
I've also been taking my Ruger LCR II in .22lr that I bought from Carl at Four Seasons. I love that thing as much as the revolver. Very nice shooter. Zero issues and eats any Hi-Velo I put in it.
Super accurate with the CCI AR TAC .22LR.
(Carl had 300 of them when I bought 2 weeks ago. Paid $319 +tax)
38ExtraSpecial
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From what I remember people also snip one leg of the spring. It should give the same result without the leg rubbing on the main spring.
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I grew up shooting cheap pot metal 22 revolvers, my dad would buy a few every other summer. Shoot the shit out of them until they broke. My dad would usually fix anything. Not these cheap pos. He would trade them in at kittery and was happy to get $15-25 for them. Brother and I would have calluses on our thumbs end if each summer.
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