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Stiff bolt 1903A3
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
Agreed that those other surfaces could be the problem. The issue with the extractor would be if it is interfering with closing or opening the bolt because the irregular surface is catching or pushing on its relief in the chamber and needs to be forced in and/or out. Not sure I'm describing it well.
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2017
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It looks like that part falls with the firing pin, so it probably stops when it hits the bolt.
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
Ruh roh. Damnit
I don’t understand how the hell it got peened. Just got a bad bolt or maybe it was shot a lot?
It’s MUCH easier now that the spring has been cut but I still should get this fixed at some point.
I was serious about smoothing it off. That should fix it. The only thing I can think of that might have peened it is maybe someone was shooting some real heavy loads with it?
Oh ya I believe you about smoothing it out. I agree.
I just tried it myself with a cheap file I have and all I think it did was remove the finish
. The metal seems like it’s harder than my file. I don’t have a dremel handy. Would need to borrow one from my dad. Maybe I’ll bring it by Steve’s shop since I’ll be in Peabody tomorrow anyway. He’s got the tools.
new bolts are CHEAP money for remington A3's if you can wait a little bit for one to come up on the CMP forums.
don't even waste your time effing around with that thing...it's GONE.
what's most surprising to me, is that it appears both surfaces are worn somewhat evenly?
...unless i'm just looking at the pictures wrong?
usually, one part will wear the other one out...your parts seem to have participated in mutually assured destruction.
HOW, in the name of Allah, Buddah, Yahweh, God do YOU, of all people, not own a mother f***ing dremel!?!?!?
Seriously dude...it's literally the best $50 a man can spend if you're not on Piedmont Street in Worcester (that equates to two blowies and a handy).
Step 1: Buy a new bolt body...because you need it.
Step 0: Buy a Dremel tool! For f***S SAKE!
don't even waste your time effing around with that thing...it's GONE.
what's most surprising to me, is that it appears both surfaces are worn somewhat evenly?
...unless i'm just looking at the pictures wrong?
usually, one part will wear the other one out...your parts seem to have participated in mutually assured destruction.
HOW, in the name of Allah, Buddah, Yahweh, God do YOU, of all people, not own a mother f***ing dremel!?!?!?
Seriously dude...it's literally the best $50 a man can spend if you're not on Piedmont Street in Worcester (that equates to two blowies and a handy).
Step 1: Buy a new bolt body...because you need it.
Step 0: Buy a Dremel tool! For f***S SAKE!
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Oh ya I believe you about smoothing it out. I agree.
I just tried it myself with a cheap file I have and all I think it did was remove the finish
Maybe I’ll bring it by Steve’s shop since I’ll be in Peabody tomorrow anyway. He’s got the tools.
oh yeah that's gonna be hardened or even nickel steel, Steve could probably do it and put a little cold blue on the smoothed parts.
Haha I know! No they definitely did wear evenly together. They’re almost mated together nice and snug. Very odd. Almost looks like the previous owner peened them himself.
I’m in no rush so I could wait. I didn’t realize they’re cheap. This one has a nice finish otherwise which is a shame but it is what it is.
dhuze
NES Member
Every time I hear someone say "use a dremel" on a firearm I want to smack them upside the head. The damage and shitty work people do with a dremel amazes me.
Hey, I need to shave. "Oh use an axe".
I have to clip my toe nails "Oh use a grinder".
I have to wipe my baby's ass "Oh use Lysol wipes".
Oh Snap! literally.
dhuze
NES Member
$45 for a complete B&S bolt. FS: MORE 1903/A3/A4 and M1917 Parts with PICS - CMP Forums
I know it's parkerized and a B&S, but you can strip it for the damaged parts for now and $45 is cheap.
Numrich for less than $75. Doesn't say anything about manufacturer.
Bolt, Complete | Gun Parts Corp.
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Oh ya I believe you about smoothing it out. I agree.
I just tried it myself with a cheap file I have and all I think it did was remove the finish
Maybe I’ll bring it by Steve’s shop since I’ll be in Peabody tomorrow anyway. He’s got the tools.
I use my dremel often...maybe you need a steady hand. FTR, i never said this issue could be resolved with a dremel...I said OP needs a dremel...which, since he has balls in his bag, he does need a dremel! every swinging dick on the planet needs one.
Not sure how you interpreted my comment of 'replace the bolt' with 'use a dremel on your bolt'...maybe a smack upside the head would set you straight?
Personally, i use the smallest files I can find so I don't remove too much material whenever working on firearms. SOME jobs in life, require a dremel.
pastera
NES Member
Minimal wear on cams surfaces for mine
Striker can cocked with the bolt in hand relatively easily by rotating the cam against the bolt.
Something is binding and making the follower drag hard against the bolt body to get the damage you have
I think you are close to me - if you need needle or riffling files let me know.
Striker can cocked with the bolt in hand relatively easily by rotating the cam against the bolt.
Something is binding and making the follower drag hard against the bolt body to get the damage you have
I think you are close to me - if you need needle or riffling files let me know.
Attachments
I almost wonder if the spring was replaced with a heavier spring by the previous owner? It's the spring that dictates the force required to cock the bolt. I feel like a heavier spring would cause more wear? Because now that I cut some coils off it's noticeably lighter. Of course the damage is done so its not a smooth operation due to the peening.
pastera
NES Member
Depending on how the metal moved, you may be able to move it back with a SMALL ball peen and punches.
If you want to compare parts let me know, it doesn't take much effort to disassemble the bolt (and this is the first time in 40+ years that bolt has been apart at all so it's time to do a thorough cleaning)
Its a hardened steel battle worn bolt, not a Faberge Egg! A dremel is not going to hurt it on the surfaces we're talking about here. And its not a rare part either so at worst you dial up ebay/numrich/gunboards/cmp/gunbroker/etc and get a replacement if you f it up.
@andrew1220 how many coils are on that spring now and how many did you remove?
@andrew1220 how many coils are on that spring now and how many did you remove?
![[rofl]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/013.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
Sweeney
NES Member
Remember, as you cut coils off of a spring you increase the spring rate. You don't want the spring too long nor too short.
I wonder if the damage on the face of the extractor is related to the damage on the camming surfaces... like someone used the bolt as drift to change out the hydraulic cylinder pins on their
LeTourneau L-2350
I wonder if the damage on the face of the extractor is related to the damage on the camming surfaces... like someone used the bolt as drift to change out the hydraulic cylinder pins on their
LeTourneau L-2350
that looks pretty rough, thats part of the problem. What does the sear look like ?
When you removed the spring coil ytou just lightened the tension between those few rough edges. Lightening or shortening the main spring does not fix problems.
It may or may not reduced trigger pull ot may or may not increase lock time, it may or may not increase primer ignition?
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