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Looks like it should be one of those family stickers. Needs a .22 for the baby and one coated pink for the mom.All the way down. It left a tiny little burr about 1/32” wide at the base. I’ve heard of guys using a flat base instead of a shell holder to push the brass into the die. This will size it all the way down and shear off the burr. I have also heard of guys doing it this way where they turn off the burr with a lathe and bit or lathe and file.
This is a family photo of
44 ES
44 Russian
44 SPL
44 MAG
I tried to run them through my 1894 and they won’t extract. I’m sure a little extractor tuning would solve that.
In my 629 they tend slide off the ejector.
This was more for fun and knowledge than anything.
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Now that's funny!^^^^^^^^![]()
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That jug would be good for about 18k rounds of 147 gr 9mm. Should last you a little bit.I’m almost tempted to open it and make up some test batches to compare to the two bullets I’ve got loaded with titegroup.
Full length size for the most part means back to minimum specs. These guys are not setting there dies up to set the cases back to minimum. They even use the S die which i think came out of the F class world? Also no one mentions if they are seating there bullets "loose" in the necks and are kissing the bullets into the lands.I’m not following this please explain.
Jus can catch a break View attachment 353157View attachment 353158
Get an old propane take and cut it half. They work great!I have cast from clean lead. But I have an ever growing pile of scrap lead. Brother dropped off 70lbs yesterday throw in the pile and realized the pile is getting large probably 500lbs or so mostly pure lead. Was going to start making bricks but the pot cracked on the first run. Always used a frying pan but cant find it. Think the kids tossed it in the river
Finished up 1k of Zero 185jhp for the 1911. Not shooting as much now, so it'll probably last a while.
Get an old propane take and cut it half. They work great!
impossible! Dillons do not need any upgrades!I had been having lots of trouble with my 550 primer bar binding on the downstroke and not serving up a new primer. Out of frustration I bought one of these and it's smooth as butter now. The parts seem very robust and nicely machined, with a thoughtful instruction/tips sheet. Anyone else using it? It's $30 and the dude shipped same-day.
Amazon product ASIN B01L9Q2TX4View: https://www.amazon.com/JW-Systems-Dillon-Primer-Bearing/dp/B01L9Q2TX4
did you pot crackJus can catch a break View attachment 353157View attachment 353158
Ouch - did you heat cycle it first?I have cast from clean lead. But I have an ever growing pile of scrap lead. Brother dropped off 70lbs yesterday throw in the pile and realized the pile is getting large probably 500lbs or so mostly pure lead. Was going to start making bricks but the pot cracked on the first run. Always used a frying pan but cant find it. Think the kids tossed it in the river
If you haven't done it before, a sawzall with bi-metal blade did better than a cutoff wheel. Good luck and be safeYup cracked it. Should have ran a torch over it. But as soon as I lit it it popped only made it to 147°f might cut a propane tank was thinking that before got lazy and bought the cast iron one instead
Thanks for the heads up. I have torched the in the past for fire pits to make mooring balls out of larger ones. Even after years of cutting tanks I still flinch.If you haven't done it before, a sawzall with bi-metal blade did better than a cutoff wheel. Good luck and be safe
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Went to Savers today looking for a toaster oven and pewter. Creepy people there. No oven and no pewter. Left quickly. So you saw @BillNed hoarding all the petwer then?www.northeastshooters.com
i noticed a crack in my pot last year. So i will be searching out a replacement. I picked mine up used from a guy who specializes in old chimney restoration and asked him for any cast Iron no longer safe for cooking.Jus can catch a break View attachment 353157View attachment 353158