What did you do in the reloading room recently?

Added a new set of Lee 30.06 dies to the collection

Took my lower shell holder from my .50bmg press to my local gunsmith and had him put in his lathe and remove some material from the top where it meets the base of the sizing die. It wasn't setting the shoulder back as far as I liked and that made the bolt difficult to close on my rifle. Tried it out and it's better but could still use some more material removed. I'll bring it with me on my next visit.

Scoped up my Ruger PC9 with a fixed 6 power Swift scope. Will zero it tomorrow.
 
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EMTDAD said:
Well. My sonic cleaner died. I guess the vinegar solution I used last time View attachment 419228ate thru the bin. Warning to others.
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Not a hornady but I had same thing happen , left solution in pan for a few days. I called for possible warranty and they said , you cant leave cleaning solution in the unit for more than 2 hours.
Vinegar will eat most cheap metal finishes
 
gerrycaruso said:
I put the Armanov roller bearing on the Dillon 650 and it indexes much more smoothly. I tried it out loading some .45acp and .45/70 with Kings coated bullets and it works great. I'd recommend this upgrade to anyone who uses a 650 but the shipping was more than the cost of the part. My daughter ordered it because she gets free shipping from amazon.
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Nice. I just ordered one. They had 2 in stock on Amazon.
 
mac1911 said:
Not a hornady but I had same thing happen , left solution in pan for a few days. I called for possible warranty and they said , you cant leave cleaning solution in the unit for more than 2 hours.
Vinegar will eat most cheap metal finishes
Click to expand...

yeah.. I left the One Shot solution in there for a while with no problems... tried the homemade vinegar recipe and this happened.. lesson learned.. this came for "free" with the press package.. debating whether to get the vibrating tumbler or another sonic cleaner.
 
andrew1220 said:
Powder isn’t too hard to get. But yes primers are very tough to get especially SPP. What calibers you looking to reload?

So do you have a press but no components or?
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I have a new RCBS Rebel kit and other components for 9mm for starters. I'll expand to .380 and .223 later. Primers and powders looks to be hard to get and from what I can see no one like to ship to Mass. I'm hoping they will ship to my daughters house in NH.
 
Silverado said:
I have a new RCBS Rebel kit and other components for 9mm for starters. I'll expand to .380 and .223 later. Primers and powders looks to be hard to get and from what I can see no one like to ship to Mass. I'm hoping they will ship to my daughters house in NH.
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You should not have too hard a time finding powder....available at close to "normal" pricing. Primers are the opposite.....
 
EMTDAD said:
yeah.. I left the One Shot solution in there for a while with no problems... tried the homemade vinegar recipe and this happened.. lesson learned.. this came for "free" with the press package.. debating whether to get the vibrating tumbler or another sonic cleaner.
Click to expand...
pull the MSDS on hornady one shot ultra sonic cleaner. Im sure hornady claims not to use anything but one shot.
 
Silverado said:
I have a new RCBS Rebel kit and other components for 9mm for starters. I'll expand to .380 and .223 later. Primers and powders looks to be hard to get and from what I can see no one like to ship to Mass. I'm hoping they will ship to my daughters house in NH.
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Yeah you’re going to have a hard time getting SPP. If you’re in Lowell, it will be worth checking out Glenn’s Ammo in N Reading. He had a bunch of powder last time I was in there.
Also try Al’s gun shop in Derry, NH and Shooters Outpost in Hooksett for powder.
 
mac1911 said:
pull the MSDS on hornady one shot ultra sonic cleaner. Im sure hornady claims not to use anything but one shot.
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oh yeah.. I'm sure as well..

so I grabbed an old plastic container.. threw in a few handfuls of brass, they poured the vinegar solution in.. let it sit for a couple of hours.. mixing by hand a few times... then rinsed.. actually did a decent job..
 
EMTDAD said:
oh yeah.. I'm sure as well..

so I grabbed an old plastic container.. threw in a few handfuls of brass, they poured the vinegar solution in.. let it sit for a couple of hours.. mixing by hand a few times... then rinsed.. actually did a decent job..
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Im not very picky , run then in tumbler for 20 min or so and done.
I have in past just washed them in a bucket and kick it around for a while.
Or place it in bed of truck and let it roll around for a few days
 
Once again the PO BOX provideth.

Twenty 8 rnd stainless steel .45acp mags. Each required about 1 minute of tweaking to drop free loaded or unloaded. They are not high quality mags and never expected them to be.....but they all work, they all drop free and they all feed and function 100%.

For $4.99 each I'm very happy with my purchase of a new group of range only mags. I do not have confidence in these mags to use them as everyday carry but I'll shoot the piss out of them shooting paper.
image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
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I don't know if I can put a cost on my reloads. I do it in stages and when I'm looking for something to keep me occupied. I'm not even sure I could tell how many I do in and hour . it never crossed my mind to time it or count it. I know I have enough to go to the range almost any time I want or can. I do know that an empty 4 lb. Peanut M&M jar loaded with .45ACP isn't a 1 hand carry (LOL)
 
Went to the range with my son to test out some more of the loads he made. I was surprised at how hot the unique at 9.6 with a 125 grain is through my revolver. Its actually a snappy load and quite accurate through my sp101. Very happy with it. In his Henry its a good plate hitting fun load. The group on paper was a bit bigger than factory thats for sure but for a fun load at the range on steel its great.

Now.....I grew some balls and made 5 rounds with the can of 2400 that I suspect was my problem last summer / fall. Once fired remington brass and a new batch if cci primers. Same recipe that was working well before that can and yup same issues still. Its definitely the powder lot. First 3 through the revolver were all different sounding reports and recoil and the 4th was a PFFT.....squib in barrel powder falling out everywhere. I put the 5th one In the dud box and that 2400 can is going in the trash when I get home.
 
3F2D85AC-CB0C-433D-8B5B-540D85B679D4.jpeg Cyka blyat !!¡!¡ vintage primer problems with h335
Starting at the bottom on white paper is pulled primers that FTF on right left are pulled but not struck. On tray is new primers out of box. Powder in right bin is from pulled cases that did not fire. Powder on left is out of newer powder jug. As you can see powder clumped up and changed color. I am playing a game with coated cast 223 out of H&R 1871 break action rifle. 19gr 2.16oal
End goal is cast out of ar. (The story as old as time writes itself doesn’t it) excessive lube was not a factor youknowhatimean. Google search leads me to believe the primers are the problem and back to the drawing board for this load development with new primers image.jpg
 
Is this new or old powder? Seems like either the primers aren’t burning well or the powder isn’t. It looks kind of half burnt and climbed together. That opaque yellow look of unburnt powder from hot loads with not enough crimp.
Try the primers in empty cases to see if they light off.
If they do then maybe the powder is junk.
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
Is this new or old powder? Seems like either the primers aren’t burning well or the powder isn’t. It looks kind of half burnt and climbed together. That opaque yellow look of unburnt powder from hot loads with not enough crimp.
Try the primers in empty cases to see if they light off.
If they do then maybe the powder is junk.
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New powder, loaded today. I was having same problem with vintage h335 so I tried new powder but same primer. Also started at 2.20oal. I understand this powder will not burn well in low pressure situations. Maybe that’s my problem too because there is residual powder in barrel after shot . Research on cast boolits got me to the world I’m in at the moment.

19grh335 produced most ftf
20gr h335 worked better but left powder in barrel.
oal change made no difference
 
ffej ruedorb said:
New powder, loaded today. I was having same problem with vintage h335 so I tried new powder but same primer. Also started at 2.20oal. I understand this powder will not burn well in low pressure situations. Maybe that’s my problem too because there is residual powder in barrel after shot . Research on cast boolits got me to the world I’m in at the moment.

19grh335 produced most ftf
20gr h335 worked better but left powder in barrel.
oal change made no difference
Click to expand...

I tried some 6-1/2 rem primers and the vintage bench primers seem weak to me. I would think they would have enough to cause a squib. Which would have been a bigger cyka blyat
 
ffej ruedorb said:
I tried some 6-1/2 rem primers and the vintage bench primers seem weak to me. I would think they would have enough to cause a squib. Which would have been a bigger cyka blyat
Click to expand...
Makes sense.
Now you have me wondering if I should reload that primed brass we picked up that day or if I should decap it all and start fresh.
Hmmmm
 
EMTDAD said:
called Bullseye in Woonsocket for shotgun primers and whoop-de-doo.. had them in stock.. 1K winchester 209 primers for $55. a bit pricey I think, but guy said that he has to pass on the hazmat fee now.. I was just glad to get them..
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55/1000 aint bad even if hes trying to pass a hazmat fee on to the consumer, depends really on the order. You can ship aprox 50k primers under one hazmat fee. Hazmat fees seem to change depending on who you order from.
In the past year i have been charged anywhere from $13.50-27.50 , did not matter on what or how much was ordered.
Right now .05 a primer is a deal.
hows the lead shot prices been ? I might fire up the shot maker on the next warm weekend.
 

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