What did you do in the reloading room recently?

Uzi2 said:
Prepped and primed 600 M1 Carbine brass. Have all the 110 FMJ bullets but heading to my local gun shop for a few pounds of H110 tomorrow.

The brass was free and the bullets were bought 20 years ago. The primers were bought 18 years ago so the cost of the whole project is minimal.

Considering the current cost of M1 Carbine ammo,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,WINNING!!!!
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Trimming is the biggest pain with 30 carbine in my experience. Being a straight walled/tapered cartridge, I can’t use my powered unit which indexes off the shoulder.

I think with the current cost of M1 carbine rounds and the powder being roughly 5-6 cents per round, it is one of those that it makes a lot of sense to reload. Even the bullets are generally cheap since they are just small round nose bullets. I got some a couple years ago for 6 cents brand new.

I do have the drill attachment for the hand trimmer but want to set up a dedicated motor for it.
 
ddeck said:
Trimming is the biggest pain with 30 carbine in my experience. Being a straight walled/tapered cartridge, I can’t use my powered unit which indexes off the shoulder.

I think with the current cost of M1 carbine rounds and the powder being roughly 5-6 cents per round, it is one of those that it makes a lot of sense to reload. Even the bullets are generally cheap since they are just small round nose bullets. I got some a couple years ago for 6 cents brand new.

I do have the drill attachment for the hand trimmer but want to set up a dedicated motor for it.
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Not trimming them, nor have I ever trimmed any straight walled/tapered casing. I trim bottle necked cartridges only.
 
ddeck said:
Trimming is the biggest pain with 30 carbine in my experience. Being a straight walled/tapered cartridge, I can’t use my powered unit which indexes off the shoulder.

I think with the current cost of M1 carbine rounds and the powder being roughly 5-6 cents per round, it is one of those that it makes a lot of sense to reload. Even the bullets are generally cheap since they are just small round nose bullets. I got some a couple years ago for 6 cents brand new.

I do have the drill attachment for the hand trimmer but want to set up a dedicated motor for it.
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Ive been using the Lee trimmer in a drill sitting in comfy chair lately
I had a setup years ago where I put the cutter, inside and outside chamfer tool in on a board and would just run the case in the drill from trim, inside , outside done without having to change tools in your hand. But it’s long gone and I have no pics but I plan to make another one

I’ve also done it by chucking up the cutter into a drill press and using the RCBS case prep station for chamfers
 
The boys checking out what was just delivered. I'd love to start setting it up but I'm nowhere near being able to yet. I had my rotator done about a month ago and this is the 2nd time in the past dozen years for the same shoulder. It'll be another couple of months or so before I'll be able to pull a handle, let alone lifting it to assemble it. Oh well, it gives me something to look forward to after all the PT is done.
20240306_173529.jpg 20240306_173540.jpg
 
Up early this morning and decided to move some jugs around on the shelf and take a little inventory. To my surprise in the back of one shelf I found a full unopened 8# jug of WC-820 pulldown powder that I bought from GIBrass years ago.
This just saved me from purchasing the H110 that I was going to get from my local shop. Saved about 80-90 dollars and it's pulled from M1 carbine ammo. The winning streak continues. [thumbsup]
So today is .30 carbine day at the press for a couple of hours.
 
ddeck said:
Trimming is the biggest pain with 30 carbine in my experience. Being a straight walled/tapered cartridge, I can’t use my powered unit which indexes off the shoulder.

I think with the current cost of M1 carbine rounds and the powder being roughly 5-6 cents per round, it is one of those that it makes a lot of sense to reload. Even the bullets are generally cheap since they are just small round nose bullets. I got some a couple years ago for 6 cents brand new.

I do have the drill attachment for the hand trimmer but want to set up a dedicated motor for it.
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Why are you trimming 30 Carbine?
 
ddeck said:
The brass was all new to me so I trimmed it for consistency. There were some pieces over 1.285 so I trimmed back to 1.280.

I’ll measure again on the second firing after resizing to see if they need to be trimmed, but I won’t trim anything under 1.285
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Ya I’ve had plenty of 30 carbine cases at or over 1.295". I don’t trim every time though.
 
ddeck said:
The brass was all new to me so I trimmed it for consistency. There were some pieces over 1.285 so I trimmed back to 1.280.

I’ll measure again on the second firing after resizing to see if they need to be trimmed, but I won’t trim anything under 1.285
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It's a straight case. When you shoot it, it won't stretch. If anything, it'll shrink.
 
EddieCoyle said:
It's a straight case. When you shoot it, it won't stretch. If anything, it'll shrink.
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It seems to be a debatable topic as to whether to trim it or not. I went through all of the available materials when first doing it and decided to trim.

CMP recommends trimming each time (page 2): https://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/CMP_Carbine_Notes_2007.pdf

I'm not saying anyone is wrong, but I fall on the risk averse part of the spectrum, so I'll do extra work to ensure everything functions as expected. If other people have other experiences and that works for them, then great. As time goes on I may change my opinion on trimming. I certainly don't have as much experience as others, so I like to hear other opinions and perspectives.
 
ddeck said:
It seems to be a debatable topic as to whether to trim it or not. I went through all of the available materials when first doing it and decided to trim.

CMP recommends trimming each time (page 2): https://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/CMP_Carbine_Notes_2007.pdf

I'm not saying anyone is wrong, but I fall on the risk averse part of the spectrum, so I'll do extra work to ensure everything functions as expected. If other people have other experiences and that works for them, then great. As time goes on I may change my opinion on trimming. I certainly don't have as much experience as others, so I like to hear other opinions and perspectives.
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Sure but that’s what causes guys to detail clean their rifle after every 30 round range trip.
 
ddeck said:
It seems to be a debatable topic as to whether to trim it or not. I went through all of the available materials when first doing it and decided to trim.

CMP recommends trimming each time (page 2): https://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/CMP_Carbine_Notes_2007.pdf

I'm not saying anyone is wrong, but I fall on the risk averse part of the spectrum, so I'll do extra work to ensure everything functions as expected. If other people have other experiences and that works for them, then great. As time goes on I may change my opinion on trimming. I certainly don't have as much experience as others, so I like to hear other opinions and perspectives.
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This is so wrong. Straight cases that headspace on the mouth SHRINK after every firing. There is literally no mechanism by which they can possibly elongate. Do you measure your cases between firings? Do they grow? Read this:

45 ACP Case Longevity - MassGunOwnership.com

In this article, we load a single 45 ACP case until we can't anymore.
massgunownership.com massgunownership.com
 
ddeck said:
It seems to be a debatable topic as to whether to trim it or not. I went through all of the available materials when first doing it and decided to trim.

CMP recommends trimming each time (page 2): https://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/CMP_Carbine_Notes_2007.pdf

I'm not saying anyone is wrong, but I fall on the risk averse part of the spectrum, so I'll do extra work to ensure everything functions as expected. If other people have other experiences and that works for them, then great. As time goes on I may change my opinion on trimming. I certainly don't have as much experience as others, so I like to hear other opinions and perspectives.
Click to expand...
Understanding the working mechanics of things is paramount.

The article posted above by EddieCoyle is unquestionable proof that straight wall cases don't need trimming as they don't lengthen.

The working mechanics and forces involved in a bottleneck cartridge are completely different, that's why they need to be trimmed.
 
EddieCoyle said:
This is so wrong. Straight cases that headspace on the mouth SHRINK after every firing. There is literally no mechanism by which they can possibly elongate. Do you measure your cases between firings? Do they grow? Read this:

45 ACP Case Longevity - MassGunOwnership.com

In this article, we load a single 45 ACP case until we can't anymore.
massgunownership.com massgunownership.com
Click to expand...
This may be a stupid question but if the brass is 1.295-1.3" and the max case length is 1.290", is there a risk of an OOB firing?
 
Been dealing with some annoying reloading issues in my reloading room. Having some issues with .45ACP loads and wondering if the NES brain trust has any ideas.

In my 1945 Remington Rand 1911A1 getting some feeding issues using .452 Berrys plated bullets. Kimber stainless steel mags that are relatively new without a lot of miles on them. Same issue with the Mecgar magazine that the CMP sent with the pistol. The rounds pass the "plunk" test fine but I get periodic 1st round issues when hitting the slide release. The round will be jammed half in the chamber, pointed up. There are no issues with my new production Springfield government pattern 1911, I've had that pistol for years and run thousands of rounds through it.

It doesn't appear to be the crimp or lack of crimp, I use the Lee or RCBS die set and it's the same issue. The rounds measure fine after crimping, either factory crimp with the Lee dies or taper crimp with RCBS.

Cartridge lengths I've tried are 1.22, 1.23, 1.25. Seems to be a bit better as I get shorter, but I don't want to get too much shorter than 1.22.

Is this a bullet geometry issue? Are there differently shaped 230gr ball projectiles people seem to like better for the surplus 1911s? Should I try to get a new mainspring? It is a 100% correct 1944/45 late war Remington Rand pistol I got from the CMP in their round 1 1911 lottery. Really nice piece, even though the trigger is squishy and awful. I'm not relying on this for self defense, but it's annoying to have to use my palm to slap the pistol into battery 1 or 2 times per magazine.

IMG_5400.jpeg
 
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CulperJr said:
Been dealing with some annoying reloading issues in my reloading room. Having some issues with .45ACP loads and wondering if the NES brain trust has any ideas.

In my 1945 Remington Rand 1911A1 getting some feeding issues using .452 Berrys plated bullets. Kimber stainless steel mags that are relatively new without a lot of miles on them. Same issue with the Mecgar magazine that the CMP sent with the pistol. The rounds pass the "plunk" test fine but I get periodic 1st round issues when hitting the slide release. The round will be jammed half in the chamber, pointed up. There are no issues with my new production Springfield government pattern 1911, I've had that pistol for years and run thousands of rounds through it.

It doesn't appear to be the crimp or lack of crimp, I use the Lee or RCBS die set and it's the same issue. The rounds measure fine after crimping, either factory crimp with the Lee dies or taper crimp with RCBS.

Cartridge lengths I've tried are 1.22, 1.23, 1.25. Seems to be a bit better as I get shorter, but I don't want to get too much shorter than 1.22.

Is this a bullet geometry issue? Are there differently shaped 230gr ball projectiles people seem to like better for the surplus 1911s? Should I try to get a new mainspring? It is a 100% correct 1944/45 late war Remington Rand pistol I got from the CMP in their round 1 1911 lottery. Really nice piece, even though the trigger is squishy and awful. I'm not relying on this for self defense, but it's annoying to have to use my palm to slap the pistol into battery 1 or 2 times per magazine.

View attachment 860023
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Try a new recoil spring first.
 
Tallahassee said:
Try a new recoil spring first.
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I think I might get a new spring and see if that helps first. The problem is always the first round and intermittently with other rounds in the magazine, regardless of age or magazine manufacturer. 1.25 was causing a lot of problems. I might also get a box of some manufactured .45 and see if it’s my reloads. I’ve actually never shot commercial .45 in this pistol.
 
CulperJr said:
I think I might get a new spring and see if that helps first. The problem is always the first round and intermittently with other rounds in the magazine, regardless of age or magazine manufacturer. 1.25 was causing a lot of problems. I might also get a box of some manufactured .45 and see if it’s my reloads. I’ve actually never shot commercial .45 in this pistol.
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Just make sure the gun is clean, oiled. Feed ramp not bitched up.

If you're not loading full power, the 15 pound variable wolf spring is nice. Fixes a lot of feeding issues with reduced loads.
 
Tried this combo, results pretty much as expected.

38 Special
158g Hornady XTP seated to 1.445"
5.0g Hodgdon CFE Pistol (Hodgdon says 4.6-5.0 for 38 special with this bullet, 5.4 for 38+P)
CCI #500 primer
Federal brass

1.875" barrel aluminum J frame.

I put 5 on paper at the indoor range where it's nice and quiet to get a good idea of where they go. Print about 1.5" high at 25 feet, nice little 2.5" group, recoil was stout but not sharp. Lights were turned off at the bench and I noticed a dull orange muzzle flash.

Went outside, set up the chrono and a couple gallon jugs of water lined up front to back. Poked holes right through both jugs, didn't even pop the caps off, holes looked like the bullet didn't expand at all, sailed off into the berm and did not recover it, 672fps. Re aimed the chrono at a paper target off to the side a bit, put 4 more on that in a nice little group, but the different angle of the sun across the chrono meant the screens wern't actually screening the sensors, so erratic readings for the last four in the 2700-3100fps range which would have been epic but yeah no.
 
p.. said:
Tried this combo, results pretty much as expected.
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CFE Pistol has consistently underwhelmed me in revolver cartridges. It always came out running much lighter than the reloading manual indicated, and I never tried exceeding the recipe data. I especially disliked it as a 357M powder. In 9mm and 45ACP, rather, it seems reasonable, especially hot 45ACP loads, which is what I use it for. No complaints there.
 
meh said:
CFE Pistol has consistently underwhelmed me in revolver cartridges. It always came out running much lighter than the reloading manual indicated, and I never tried exceeding the recipe data. I especially disliked it as a 357M powder. In 9mm and 45ACP, rather, it seems reasonable, especially hot 45ACP loads, which is what I use it for. No complaints there.
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CFE Pistol seems fine in 9mm and I've used it for several hundred rounds with 115g fmjs now, but once this pound is gone I'll probably try something else.

In 38 Special, it's kind of a toss up between Winchester 231 and Titegroup as to what I prefer. They both perform well. In that round I've also tried Red Dot, Green Dot, Power Pistol, and Unique. The closest thing I've found to what might actually be a decent defensive load is 6.0g of W231 or 7.0g of Power Pistol, with a 110g Hornady XTP. Either of those come out of the J frame doing just a tick over 900fps and that might actually get the bullet to expand.
 

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