What did you do to your firearm today.

was it difficult to undo original barrel? post some results later, i am curious how it will work out.
was old original barrel really that bad?

2 Grub screws and the old,barrel comes right out. Eaiser than you can possibly imagine

I just got back from a work trip so I’ll try to find time to get out soon-ish. Got sick from my travels so we’ll see.

The original varmint barrel shot great. I did this mostly for it to balance better.
 
I got a good deal on a surefire m300 with a mount I can't really use. Luckily I had an offset mount from Magpul but the screws I thought went with it don't fit! One call to Magpul and they're shipping me the screws. In the meantime I'm using the screws from the other mount which are meant to countersink.

Now I have a nice little light for my 1301!
 
Doc at Alpha precision tightened the slide to frame fit and fit a new barrel to my high milage BEC . Before the work it was printing a 4-5" pattern, now about 2" at about 20y. It might be capable of a better group in the right hands
 

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Doc at Alpha precision tightened the slide to frame fit and fit a new barrel to my high milage BEC . Before the work it was printing a 4-5" pattern, now about 2" at about 20y. It might be capable of a better group in the right hands

How did they tighten it ? Weld and grind or peened rails ?
 
Doc at Alpha precision tightened the slide to frame fit and fit a new barrel to my high milage BEC . Before the work it was printing a 4-5" pattern, now about 2" at about 20y. It might be capable of a better group in the right hands
make single stack great again! 9mm?
 
Finally got around to drilling and tapping my Mauser project. I got to shoot it (finally)! The other day. My targets were blowing around so it was hard to tell how it was shooting but it seems to have potential. And I got to checkering a Christmas present from my friend. The guy gave me a Remington 722 in 300 savage! It's a pretty generous gift, and not only did he give me the rifle but four boxes of ammunition.
 

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Got my last two fals built up. Out of receivers or rifles to build off of and can't get them from out state anymore so if anyone's got one in the back of the safe give a shout!
First is an stg58, went together beautifully, probably my easiest yet.
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Second is my most intensive build yet. A Paratrooper variant. All of my others were done from complete parts kit. But those that know, know that complete Paratrooper kits are practically unobtanium today so this had to be pieced together practically individually, took about 6 months to source everything, then had to have the receiver sent out to be machined for thr special topcover these have.
Finally got it screwed together yesterday, had to use my cheater bar this one was tight!!
All and all I couldn't be happier with it!
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I installed a tandemkross TX22 reduced power trigger spring which made the already nice crisp light trigger even better. I think it was prob at most 4-5lbs. Now it feels like 2-2.5lbs. Also installed the fluted Lakeline barrel that recently came out. Curious to see how well the accuracy improves.
 
I removed the mil spec dust cover from a new Spikes Tactical upper, and then installed a Strike Industries billet aluminum one.

FI3cJyY.jpg


With the upper pinned into my DPMS Panther Claw block, I installed a Faxon 7.5 inch 300 Blackout 1:8 twist gunner profile barrel.
This was a bit of a pain in the ass because it turns out the barrel nut for the Strike Industries "Strike Rail" that I was going to be putting on only has five slots around its circumference for the gas tube to pass through.
This means when torquing the nut you may have to travel as far as the whole 72-degrees between slots. That would be okay if Strike had supplied a sufficient variety of barrel nut shims, but they didn't and using what they did give me I still ended up having to torque all the way up to 50 ft.lb. to get a slot lined up.

amRU0Gx.jpg


After getting the barrel set I installed a Kratos Designs Group gas block that I got for $35. First time I have ever used one, it seems very well machined and it has a witness hole for aligning the gas port, came with a spare cup screws and spare gas tube coil pin both of good quality. Gas tube is Expo Arms pistol length.

OKHyZYm.jpg


I switched from the Panther Claw to the Magpul BEV block to install the Midwest Industries 5/8-24 Blast Can . Notice the bolt carrier with the bolt removed which locks the upper into the BEV block along with a temporary pivot pin.
Now technically you don't need to time this type of muzzle device but I wanted the flats on the sides and the MI logo at the top so I used a crush washer and had to go to about 40 ft.lb. which is kind of pushing it but I am hoping the washer absorbed it and I didn't start to constrict the barrel.

mv5HdI0.jpg


And here is the finished upper with the 7 inch Strike Rail installed. I would have liked the rail to be a little longer but the next size up is 10 inches and that would have been too long.

hcgOfWm.jpg


After adding a PA SLx 25mm red dot this is going to be a 7.5 inch 300 Blackout home defense option.

BTW this is a caliber swap for an existing tax stamped SBR, so suck it Maura.


🐯
 
I removed the mil spec dust cover from a new Spikes Tactical upper, and then installed a Strike Industries billet aluminum one.

FI3cJyY.jpg


With the upper pinned into my DPMS Panther Claw block, I installed a Faxon 7.5 inch 300 Blackout 1:8 twist gunner profile barrel.
This was a bit of a pain in the ass because it turns out the barrel nut for the Strike Industries "Strike Rail" that I was going to be putting on only has five slots around its circumference for the gas tube to pass through.
This means when torquing the nut you may have to travel as far as the whole 72-degrees between slots. That would be okay if Strike had supplied a sufficient variety of barrel nut shims, but they didn't and using what they did give me I still ended up having to torque all the way up to 50 ft.lb. to get a slot lined up.

amRU0Gx.jpg


After getting the barrel set I installed a Kratos Designs Group gas block that I got for $35. First time I have ever used one, it seems very well machined and it has a witness hole for aligning the gas port, came with a spare cup screws and spare gas tube coil pin both of good quality. Gas tube is Expo Arms pistol length.

OKHyZYm.jpg


I switched from the Panther Claw to the Magpul BEV block to install the Midwest Industries 5/8-24 Blast Can . Notice the bolt carrier with the bolt removed which locks the upper into the BEV block along with a temporary pivot pin.
Now technically you don't need to time this type of muzzle device but I wanted the flats on the sides and the MI logo at the top so I used a crush washer and had to go to about 40 ft.lb. which is kind of pushing it but I am hoping the washer absorbed it and I didn't start to constrict the barrel.

mv5HdI0.jpg


And here is the finished upper with the 7 inch Strike Rail installed. I would have liked the rail to be a little longer but the next size up is 10 inches and that would have been too long.

hcgOfWm.jpg


After adding a PA SLx 25mm red dot this is going to be a 7.5 inch 300 Blackout home defense option.

BTW this is a caliber swap for an existing tax stamped SBR, so suck it Maura.


🐯
Do you account for the extra distance the AR wrench adds to the torque wrench, assuming about 3" your 50ftlb is probably closer to 60ftlb
 
Do you account for the extra distance the AR wrench adds to the torque wrench, assuming about 3" your 50ftlb is probably closer to 60ftlb
If my memory is correct, 30-80 ft lbs is the spec for an AR barrel nut.
With an original plastic handguard setup, you would have to line up the gas tube with one of the notch in the barrel nut, so there is no way to get an exact torque
 
Meanwhile, I'm starting to enjoy shooting BUG but I had to address the dinky little Glock 43 mags refusing to drop free. No one makes weighed base pads for the 43 so I made my own. I got Pearce +1 extensions and filled the extra +1 space with lead tape, adding close to an ounce. Seems to work well. Next problem was that these new basepads were too big to fit in the IDPA box so I had to trim them way down. Turns out that with my new slightly taller sights, even the stock basepad was too long, oops.

From left to right:
-Magguts +2 carry mag
-OEM Glock
-Pearce +1
-My shaved down Pearce +1

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Meanwhile, I'm starting to enjoy shooting BUG but I had to address the dinky little Glock 43 mags refusing to drop free. No one makes weighed base pads for the 43 so I made my own. I got Pearce +1 extensions and filled the extra +1 space with lead tape, adding close to an ounce. Seems to work well. Next problem was that these new basepads were too big to fit in the IDPA box so I had to trim them way down. Turns out that with my new slightly taller sights, even the stock basepad was too long, oops.

From left to right:
-Magguts +2 carry mag
-OEM Glock
-Pearce +1
-My shaved down Pearce +1
Be careful, IDPA will make a rule against exactly what you have done
 
Finally swapped out the factory plastic hand guards on my colt for a nice Midwest M-lol unit I got on sale in the deals and steals thread.

this was my dads gun he passed away today 2 years ago. It’s funny I was laughing to myself I always had to mess with his stuff

One day after my first week at a tech school I decided to take his chainsaw apart and couldn’t get it back together, he was so pissed. I coolly help but think he’s rolling his eyes at me lol
I still have that chainsaw too

I had to cut the a2 off carefully with a cutoff wheel since the brake is pinned and welded. Used a hinged YHM gas block. Sorry no progress pics it’s freezing in the shop and it’s a disaster
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My mauser 98 project is finally wrapped up. Chambered in 6.5x55 Swede with a nice stock made of black walnut with a checkered buffalo horn butt plate. It's a nice handling rifle and quite accurate. Absolutely a nice hunting rifle, but I'm debating pulling the barrel and turning it down or possibly cutting it to 20 in from 21.5 to help shave off a just another ounce or two from the muzzle. The density of the walnut threw off my weight estimates quite a bit so I am going to have to tweak a few things to get it to balance just right.
 

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Transformed a Ruger SA new model blackhawk 45 caliber using a power custom jig and some Wolff springs. After using the jig and little polishing I started with a very light setup using 17# hammer spring and 30# trigger spring. Didn’t like it. The trigger pull was about 2.1# but felt the creep in the action more than I wanted—too much pull, light and smooth but not crisp. Took it apart and put in 19# hammer and 40# trigger spring and the trigger improved. Nice and crisp but now the trigger pull was heavier than I wanted. Next, I unhooked one of the trigger spring arms and the trigger was exactly what I wanted. Took it apart again and replaced the 40# trigger spring with the 30#, kept the 19# hammer spring. Very happy!! Seriously transformed the gun. Crisp 2.7# trigger.
 

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