Winter Projects

[mac1911]

OK, what's a couple more holes...

Well you could also just put the action inbound bench side with barrel hanging out side , just harder to get action wrench on ?
I dont have words to clarify what im trying to say.
Ever have a hard time busting wheel lugs free , the car swaying around. Then have someone get in and hold the brakes on hard and the lugs now snap free?

 

[Mountain]

Ever have a hard time busting wheel lugs free , the car swaying around. Then have someone get in and hold the brakes on hard and the lugs now snap free?

That's what Harbor Freight 300 ft lb air wrenches are for.

 

[mac1911]

That's what Harbor Freight 300 ft lb air wrenches are for.

300…..hahaha your funny or to cheap to buy the earth quake. Lol

 

[Mountain]

300…..hahaha your funny or to cheap to buy the earth quake. Lol

My bad- I have the 3/4" model. 1000 ft lbs? Something like that.

Anyway, f-ing Swede barrel won't come loose with the freeze and heat trick. Can't budge w/ cheater bar but BFH moves the barrel in the vise. Oak bushing no go, went back to rosin only and tightened vise with BFH. No matter how tight is the vise, can't get barrel to budge. Looking like relief cut is in my future.

 

[mac1911]

My bad- I have the 3/4" model. 1000 ft lbs? Something like that.

Anyway, f-ing Swede barrel won't come loose with the freeze and heat trick. Can't budge w/ cheater bar but BFH moves the barrel in the vise. Oak bushing no go, went back to rosin only and tightened vise with BFH. No matter how tight is the vise, can't get barrel to budge. Looking like relief cut is in my future.

They can be tough. I wrestled with a mosin barrel . The barrel was toast so we ended up “burping” the barrel shank with a blunt tip in the air hammer and it finally popped free.
Sometime a a relief cut is needed

 

[mac1911]

Winter Project #1

View: https://youtu.be/kjbpfFBHixo

 

[mac1911]

Not overly exciting project but put the finishing touches to the upper guard on the 308 Mauser 98k barrel shank to the rear of rear sight is a smidge longer. 1/16-1/8ish
Just a little careful trimming and its all good.
Might still pick up a new stock and metal but since I cant see the rear sight all to well these days Im hesitant to spend more money on this rig. Might load up some Trailboss Plinkers for another WWPM target.

 

[Mountain]

Not overly exciting project but put the finishing touches to the upper guard on the 308 Mauser 98k barrel shank to the rear of rear sight is a smidge longer. 1/16-1/8ish
Just a little careful trimming and its all good.
Might still pick up a new stock and metal but since I cant see the rear sight all to well these days Im hesitant to spend more money on this rig. Might load up some Trailboss Plinkers for another WWPM target.View attachment 555031

Awesome! Yeah, shoot it with some of those mouse fart loads.

I'm going to step away from the Swede for a while. Good idea to leave the bolt in while yanking on the wrench. The bolt is now in there pretty tight so I'll need to work on that once the new barrel is in.

Almost forgot I had an unfinished project to wrap up getting ready for matches that 03A3 I picked up at Talladega CMP. Put in a smaller aperture rear sight but need to finish sighting in and may have some more stock work to do. That f-ing Minelli stock has been giving me fits.

 

[dw617]

Reached out to Reamer Rental place and was told it's gonna be another 2 weeks until they ship it out to me. Was hoping to sort out the finish reaming during the holidays as I have a bunch of PTO starting tomorrow. Seriously considering buying the 30-06 reamer; rental comes to $90, buying is a little more than double that... Hmm.....

 

[mac1911]

Reached out to Reamer Rental place and was told it's gonna be another 2 weeks until they ship it out to me. Was hoping to sort out the finish reaming during the holidays as I have a bunch of PTO starting tomorrow. Seriously considering buying the 30-06 reamer; rental comes to $90, buying is a little more than double that... Hmm.....

I have the clymer $169 might be a little cheaper if you have FFL 03 and tell brownells that .

 

[mac1911]

I think my next mini project is polishing up the mauser family triggers.
The Rock Ridge Machine 03a4 clone has some heavy park on everything.

 

[dw617]

I have the clymer $169 might be a little cheaper if you have FFL 03 and tell brownells that .

Unfortunately no 03 discount on that one.....

Canceled the reamer rental, bought one and it's on the way.

 

[mac1911]

Unfortunately no 03 discount on that one.....

Canceled the reamer rental, bought one and it's on the way.

 

[mac1911]

Awesome! Yeah, shoot it with some of those mouse fart loads.

I'm going to step away from the Swede for a while. Good idea to leave the bolt in while yanking on the wrench. The bolt is now in there pretty tight so I'll need to work on that once the new barrel is in.

Almost forgot I had an unfinished project to wrap up getting ready for matches that 03A3 I picked up at Talladega CMP. Put in a smaller aperture rear sight but need to finish sighting in and may have some more stock work to do. That f-ing Minelli stock has been giving me fits.

Come bust that sumbitch loose!

 

[mac1911]

Unfortunately no 03 discount on that one.....

Canceled the reamer rental, bought one and it's on the way.

Thats cheaper than when I bought mine a few couple years ago.

 

[Jay77]

Stock is sanded and the first coat is drying on the CMP stock. Going with plain Minwax tung oil finish and I’ll post pics when I’m done.

 

[mac1911]

Stock is sanded and the first coat is drying on the CMP stock. Going with plain Minwax tung oil finish and I’ll post pics when I’m done.

Dont lay minwax tung oul finish to thick between coats. It will get cloudy if you do.
Its not the best finish especially if your trying to fill the pores ? I like MinWax TOF though. Its a easy and effective wipe on varnish
Just a note: There is little if 0 tung oil in MW TOF.

 

[Sweeney]

Visited my friend today and he bestowed upon me a gift saying "I figured you'd like this"...

1939 BSA SMLE No.1 MkIII ...some assembly required... and cleaning, bluing, oiling, more cleaning, fitting, etc. I think it's all there. It was sitting a box disassembled for a couple decades.

 

[mac1911]

Visited my friend today and he bestowed upon me a gift saying "I figured you'd like this"...

1939 BSA SMLE No.1 MkIII ...some assembly required... and cleaning, bluing, oiling, more cleaning, fitting, etc. I think it's all there. It was sitting a box disassembled for a couple decades.
View attachment 556098

Nice,

 

[Jay77]

I’m calling it done after three coats and I’m happy enough with the way it came out. Now the the lifetime project starts …. Shooting it till it’s worn out…

 

[mac1911]

Winter Project #1

View: https://youtu.be/kjbpfFBHixo

Might go this route

Perma Color™Case Coloring Kit

www.birchwoodcasey.com

Or

 

[mac1911]

Winter Project #1

View: https://youtu.be/kjbpfFBHixo

So it begins , im going to give it a warm dish soapy bath and then some formbys.
Only because its just sitting there on the shelf .
For the dish soapy bath I will use cheese coth and soft brush.
Last 2 pics are after a cleaning. It was pretty grungy. Have a few repairs to consider.

 

[mac1911]

So it begins , im going to give it a warm dish soapy bath and then some formbys.
Only because its just sitting there on the shelf .
For the dish soapy bath I will use cheese coth and soft brush

So the 311s like to crack the forend splits right in the middle at the screws and looks like someone tried heading that off .
The drilled out the “crack and put a “wedge” in there. Im most likely going to drill it out a bit more and acuglass the cavity and drill new holes.
Next is the crack in the stock very common on the 311. Hard to see but might head this crack off with a small hole and fill with epoxy. Objective of this rifle is putting it back in action all nice and clean.
I drilled out the “crack” and filled with epoxy used some of that minwax wood hardener on some soft spongy parts


The dark line is the crack and by the dark spot around it I think someone tried “squeezing” glue in there. My plan is to drill a small hole at the end if the crack and fill with acuglass. Then try to get some glue to wick into the crack z.
Crack all better
Now onto the wood
Prepping for the crack repair the alcohol took off what ever varnish was on there so had to clean it up
Since its going to see field use going with a slightly tougher finish than tung oil

 

[Sweeney]

^ Often times for those types of cracks I'll drill a hole or holes across them in an inconspicuous spot and epoxy in a rod...usually wood but on my 1795 Springfield it got a carbon fiber rod in the wrist area...hidden under the trigger guard. Pressing the rod in helps to drive epoxy into the crack from within as well.

 

[mac1911]

^ Often times for those types of cracks I'll drill a hole or holes across them in an inconspicuous spot and epoxy in a rod...usually wood but on my 1795 Springfield it got a carbon fiber rod in the wrist area...hidden under the trigger guard. Pressing the rod in helps to drive epoxy into the crack from within as well.

I have repaired cracks with rods, drill bits , screws even drilled and tapped wood for large repair . Its a thin area.
Any how ……piece broke off completely . I have it glued up now and I might drill and rod it . I really need to pick up a vise for my drill press. On a gun like this seeing a rod repair wont bother me its going back into use .

 

[Sweeney]

The biggest stock repair I've done was on my Gew98. The stock was snapped in half at the barrel band that hides the cleaning rod nut...not much wood in that area. Centering on the cleaning rod hole, I bored each half to 5/8" and epoxied in a 6061 aluminum dowel bored for the cleaning rod and mortised for the cleaning rod nut.

Mocking up with a wooden dowel.


Finished repair with aluminum dowel and mortice for machined in. I cut a fine thread on the dowel to improve bonding.

 

[Mountain]

The biggest stock repair I've done was on my Gew98. The stock was snapped in half at the barrel band that hides the cleaning rod nut...not much wood in that area. Centering on the cleaning rod hole, I bored each half to 5/8" and epoxied in a 6061 aluminum dowel bored for the cleaning rod and morticed for the cleaning rod nut.

Mocking up with a wooden dowel.
View attachment 558758
View attachment 558760
Finished repair with aluminum dowel and mortice for machined in. I cut a fine thread on the dowel to improve bonding.
View attachment 558768

Nice work, and a good reminder that some creative repair work can save a stock so it's at least a good shooter.

 

[Sweeney]

Nice work, and a good reminder that some creative repair work can save a stock so it's at least a good shooter.

Thank you. There just isn't much wood in that area where the barrel channel, cleaning rod nut mortise and band spring mortise all occupy the same space. The Gew98 is all matching so I didn't want to replace the stock. When assembled the repair is pretty much invisible. The firing pin was also broken so I rebuilt that as well. Germans put the serial number on nearly every damn part!

A bit of the setup to bore the ends of the stock.
Centered on the cleaning rod bore and using a 5/8" end mill.

Nothing to see from the outside...but close...

 

[mac1911]

So the 311s like to crack the forend splits right in the middle at the screws and looks like someone tried heading that off .
The drilled out the “crack and put a “wedge” in there. Im most likely going to drill it out a bit more and acuglass the cavity and drill new holes. View attachment 558545
Next is the crack in the stock very common on the 311. Hard to see but might head this crack off with a small hole and fill with epoxy. Objective of this rifle is putting it back in action all nice and clean.
I drilled out the “crack” and filled with epoxy used some of that minwax wood hardener on some soft spongy parts
View attachment 559030

The dark line is the crack and by the dark spot around it I think someone tried “squeezing” glue in there. My plan is to drill a small hole at the end if the crack and fill with acuglass. Then try to get some glue to wick into the crack z.
View attachment 558546Crack all betterView attachment 559027
Now onto the wood
Prepping for the crack repair the alcohol took off what ever varnish was on there so had to clean it up
Since its going to see field use going with a slightly tougher finish than tung oil
View attachment 559028

I will move onto something milsurp soon
Nothing exciting though

 

[VTHunter]

Not really gun related, but my current winter project is refinishing an antique brass lamp. This it truly an American work of art. The wick handle has an inscription 'Patented May 21, 1885'. Most of these were converted to electric. Somehow, this one escaped...