AR-15 thread... I'll show you mine if you show me yours.

drgrant said:
No, not at all.. I feel the same way. I love my 6520 but I already want to
have a -minimum- of two AR's in the safe at all times. I'm thinking about
either building my own on the 2nd gun, or getting a preban lower and then
building something on top of that, or buying just another completed
rifle.

That is, of course, assuming all the dental work I've had done recently
doesn't destroy my bank account. The insurance pays for a lot of it
but it never seems like its enough. [crying] Depending on how bad
the bill is I might even have to sell one of the childen. [sad] (It sure as hell
won't be my AR or my AK, though!)

-Mike
Click to expand...

I'd like to round-out/balance my present collection with a Viet Nam era style A1 (or earlier), version... triangular handguards, A1 front and rear sights, 3 prong FS, no foward assist, etc.
 
I think I want to get a complete preban bushy lower with the 6 position stock and then build it up from there. Now that I have one and see just how increadibly easy it is. [smile]
 
I'd like to round-out/balance my present collection with a Viet Nam era style A1 (or earlier), version... triangular handguards, A1 front and rear sights, 3 prong FS, no foward assist, etc.
Click to expand...


theres about 15 reeeeeally nice ones for sale on gunbroker right now...some of em from the same user are consecutively numbered
 
I was just up at FS on Wed putting down my deposit on my first AR, will be here in three to four weeks. Bushmaster V Match 20" barrel fluted and full floated flat top with flip down front and rear sights. Shopping for a scope right now....any suggestions? looking for distance.
 
noidlight said:
I was just up at FS on Wed putting down my deposit on my first AR, will be here in three to four weeks. Bushmaster V Match 20" barrel fluted and full floated flat top with flip down front and rear sights. Shopping for a scope right now....any suggestions? looking for distance.
Click to expand...

SWFA Super Sniper.
 
My Rock River Arms Elite UTE. Eotech 511, Yankee Hills Machine forend, Blackhawk Gladius light.

UTE2.JPG
 
ok, after a little shopping I finally decided on my scope.....thanks toEecutive I picked up an swfa super sniper scope. Now all I need is my new Bushmaster to attach it to! Carl says it will be in this week, I hope.....will make for a great weekend. Anyone have any recommendations for ammunition/bullet weight to break her in? Has a 20'fluted heavy barrel with a 1:9 twist.
 
Here is one of mine.

Bushmaster lower
RRA Entry upper (I have a Troy Folding BUIS on order to get rid of that rail and a LaRue cantalive mount coming for the clonepoint.)
 
Last edited:
blood hound said:
really???? doesnt it flake off after awhile????
Click to expand...

You can use crayons, grease pencils, nail polish...

Brownells sells some sort of lacquer sticks to fill in the lettering.

I've been using Testors model paints and
Sharpie Extra-Fine paint pens with good results (the paint holds up much better).

Filling in the lettering is easy. Carefully wiping off and removing the overflow without removing paint from the lettering takes a bit of practice and patience.
 
blood hound said:
hmmmm...thanx for the info...ill have to give it a try!
Click to expand...

If you want to do the crayon, wipe down the area with isopropyl alcohol. Fill the lettering with the crayon by rubbing back and forth. Then, heat up the area with a hair dryer to get the crayon to flow and look smooth. Wipe off the excess and put something on the area to protect it.
 
If you want to do the crayon, wipe down the area with isopropyl alcohol. Fill the lettering with the crayon by rubbing back and forth. Then, heat up the area with a hair dryer to get the crayon to flow and look smooth. Wipe off the excess and put something on the area to protect it.
Click to expand...

i work in a dental lab and we use wax to make the initial models for crowns and bridges that are later cast in metal...i was gonna use my burner to melt the crayon then use my tools which are shaped like picks to insert the liquid wax into the groove of the letters

what do you mean by putting something on to protect it?
 
blood hound said:
i work in a dental lab and we use wax to make the initial models for crowns and bridges that are later cast in metal...i was gonna use my burner to melt the crayon then use my tools which are shaped like picks to insert the liquid wax into the groove of the letters
Click to expand...

I tried that. Maybe you'll have better luck than me.

what do you mean by putting something on to protect it?
Click to expand...

Like rem oil or something to help blend the color back in and protect where you stripped everything off by using the alcohol to clean the surface before and after the crayons.

If you want it more permenant you can use Lacquer-Stiks.
 
Crayon is tough! I used it to highlight a few receivers and its a PITA to get off. Wound up using a stiff bristled toothbrush, Break Free, and a pick to get it all out. It'll stand up to a wipe down with standard oil too and best part is because its wax it protects and can be rubbed in with pressure with no bad effects. You can usually buff on any excess with a dry rag and then use some standard gun oil on a rag to clean the area. Not sure how that works on finishes like an AR, but its great on blued milsurps.
 
I've just used Testors model enamels on mine with good results.Fill in the lettering,wait a couple minutes for the paint to dry a little and then clean up the excess with Q-tips moistened in thinner.
 
outofbattery said:
I've just used Testors model enamels on mine with good results.Fill in the lettering,wait a couple minutes for the paint to dry a little and then clean up the excess with Q-tips moistened in thinner.
Click to expand...

If you haven't already... try using cotton swabs that are pointed or fiber-tip makeup applicators for cleaning up really fine or small lettering...

http://www.kosmetech.com/item.asp?idProduct=219&idCategory=4

http://www.kosmetech.com/cotton.asp

The cosmetics section in just about any drugstore should have them.

I use brush cleaner instead of thinner. Seems like it does a better job once the paint has really dried.
 
well i just complete the project...and minus a nasty lil burn on my finger all went well

the wax in the crayon is much diff then the wax i use at work...it doesnt stay in liquid form as long so it was a lil bit harder to work with
 

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