When back and shot 15 more of lee 1oz 5 cb wad 5 aa wad un cut and aa cut pedals at 25 yards. Same gun all foot high all about the same i aimed bottom frameWhat shotgun and what sights?
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
Be sure to enter the NES/Pioneer Valley Arms February Giveaway ***Smith & Wesson SD9VE 9MM***
When back and shot 15 more of lee 1oz 5 cb wad 5 aa wad un cut and aa cut pedals at 25 yards. Same gun all foot high all about the same i aimed bottom frameWhat shotgun and what sights?
Keep the allen in my pocket. I might drill and tap the side and add a set screw to lock the spur screw if it keeps losingKeep an eye on the set screw the first few times you use it. I want to say someone found the replacement if you lose it. @ddeck
Thanks Artie!
Turns out that an M4 machine screw (fine thread) is the same. So, I just used one of those I had around.
Went to drill and install set screw on spur screw. Son bitch there was already one. Nice moldKeep the allen in my pocket. I might drill and tap the side and add a set screw to lock the spur screw if it keeps losing
Drop the temp a little more if you can.Coated and started sizing with right die watched temp better and shorten bake time with more air dry still dark.
How low is good without causing issuesDrop the temp a little more if you can.
I think they look great either way. Very consistent results albeit a bit dark.
IIRC 385 was the lowest. @pastera any suggestions for working with blue?How low is good without causing issues
I brought it down to 365. It does cool when open door but holds steady after. Doing 10 min cycles. 10min air 10 preheat on top 10 min in. Good stuff though might grab another oven to shorten timesIIRC 385 was the lowest. @pastera any suggestions for working with blue?
I would venture to guess that the big issue is that the little ovens kick on and off and overshoot their setpoint by enough to cause color darkening.
PID would solve the issue. Also a large chunk of steel or similar in the oven will retain heat and keep it from cycling on every other minute.
Pid is on the list dam list only gets longer. Could use with pot as well. Was going to buy a lyman 25 but has to waitI brought it down to 365. It does cool when open door but holds steady after. Doing 10 min cycles. 10min air 10 preheat on top 10 min in. Good stuff though might grab another oven to shorten times
I have some blue. I need to try it next time I do some castingPid is on the list dam list only gets longer. Could use with pot as well. Was going to buy a lyman 25 but has to wait
Looks like I'll be building onrPID is the bomb for this setup. I built a second one recently for my second pot. Couple it with a Pastera cover and probe holder and you’re in business. Keeps my lead at 680 which works very well.
What size case are you using ill probably make one out of aluminum have a 1/8" sheet in shop probably not worth doing but havent used it besides under smelting potPID is the bomb for this setup. I built a second one recently for my second pot. Couple it with a Pastera cover and probe holder and you’re in business. Keeps my lead at 680 which works very well.
It's sitting on a pallet in a field there the last bit about thousand lbs on 2 pallets if I get time on a cool day. Then I can stack it s conex box with the rest I stamp the ingots so I don't forget. Should of bought so of those red reck gold ones but wasn't sure on ingots size in small pot. Thanks for the insightI would definitely only go about 100 pounds at a time. You never know what type of changes you’re going to run into in the future.
I wouldn’t bother melting everything else into known and gets if you already have it separated out properly. Just make sure that whatever container it in is labeled. That saves your time and effort.
Unless you want it all in pretty uniform and gets then I say go for it. Smelting is fun.
The redneck ingots are perfect for small pots. I just have Lee 20# pots and you can slide a few side by side. They’re maybe 50% longer than the depth of the pot so they hang out but not enough to worry about them falling out.It's sitting on a pallet in a field there the last bit about thousand lbs on 2 pallets if I get time on a cool day. Then I can stack it s conex box with the rest I stamp the ingots so I don't forget. Should have bought so of those red reck gold ones but wasn't sure on ingots size in small pot. Thanks for the insight
I have pair of 10# i bought for sinkers been waiting to upgrade but they do the job takes a lot longer to cast a lot but been preheating on hot plate that's on for molds just have to watch temp or you will have a puddle on your benchThe redneck ingots are perfect for small pots. I just have Lee 20# pots and you can slide a few side by side. They’re maybe 50% longer than the depth of the pot so they hang out but not enough to worry about them falling out.
Yeah might be a bit big for those but not bad really. You can probably prop one end up and let it just melt down and kid of self feedI have pair of 10# i bought for sinkers been waiting to upgrade but they do the job takes a lot longer to cast a lot but been preheating on hot plate that's on for molds just have to watch temp or you will have a puddle on your bench
183° C (361° F) for 3 minutes bullet surface tempIIRC 385 was the lowest. @pastera any suggestions for working with blue?
I would venture to guess that the big issue is that the little ovens kick on and off and overshoot their setpoint by enough to cause color darkening.
PID would solve the issue. Also a large chunk of steel or similar in the oven will retain heat and keep it from cycling on every other minute.
Perfect temp for the hard colors like blueI brought it down to 365. It does cool when open door but holds steady after. Doing 10 min cycles. 10min air 10 preheat on top 10 min in. Good stuff though might grab another oven to shorten times
Is this a single bead slug barrel, raised rib?When back and shot 15 more of lee 1oz 5 cb wad 5 aa wad un cut and aa cut pedals at 25 yards. Same gun all foot high all about the same i aimed bottom frame
Single bead smooth barrel smooth receiver. I'll try adjusting my selfIs this a single bead slug barrel, raised rib?
I have a jig that centers a drill guide to drill bead sight holes. If tour thinking of a 2nd bead
Old shotguns single bead your eye is the rear sight.
So if its a single bead the drop at the comb is not enough for you
My shotgun experience is based on SE MA woods huntingWhen back and shot 15 more of lee 1oz 5 cb wad 5 aa wad un cut and aa cut pedals at 25 yards. Same gun all foot high all about the same i aimed bottom frame
I'm in the market for a different slug gun. But other stuff always gets in the way. For now just fun at the range. Would like one for deer shoulders are getting old. But we will seeMy shotgun experience is based on SE MA woods hunting
1650 fps Remington slugsters
Out of smooth bore slug barrels
50 yards point of aim = to Point of impact 3”ish group.
On the single bead guns , we would sometime change out front bead hight.
More often you just made a hold to compensate.
1’ high at 25 yards is a tad much you would be holding the belly line….
I broke down at 17 and just bought a 18” slug barrel with adjustable rear sight.
Now with my lee slugs , im only running them at 1250 fps and use a red dot or scope. Only used them at club fun shoots
Paper and milk jug targets.