The Liberty Training Rifle

dwarven1 said:
The hole for the nut isn't a through hole, though - it's just deep enough to embed the nut below the level of the wood around it. The wood at the forend is about an inch thick or so. If you have a drill press, that's the best to use. Otherwise, get a drillbit with a stop that you can put on it so you don't go too deep.

Glad I could help.
Click to expand...

Really, now that's not what I was expecting LOL. That actually holds better than the wood screw?
 
Stratocaster1422 said:
Really, now that's not what I was expecting LOL. That actually holds better than the wood screw?
Click to expand...
Yup. Wood screws have a nasty tendency to strip out under constant and changing stress. That's why the rear stud is a wood screw (because there's a LOT less stress put on it, and there's no place to put a nut anyway) and the front is a machine screw with nut.
 
While we're talking slings & studs, let me give you my opinion on why this style:

image


is NOT your best choice for an LTR. If you're using the GI sling, the rear swivel being one piece is no big deal - the GI sling clips and unclips quite nicely. The front works fine while you're shooting. When you're done shooting, though, and need to clear the line, you will need to get your arm out of the sling, safe & clear the rifle, score targets/load mags/talk/drink/whatever and then get back into the sling, adjust it, try to find the same spot on your arm, adjust again and waste valuable prep time.

With a quick disconnect, you can remove the sling from the rifle, and then leave the sling on your arm until the next course of fire - no constant readjusting. It's not impossible to use the fixed sling swivels - but I quickly figured out that the QDs are easier, especially on Sunday of an Appleseed.
 
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KMM696 said:
While we're talking slings & studs, let me give you my opinion on why this style:

image


is not your best choice for an LTR. If you're using the GI sling, the rear swivel being one piece is no big deal - the GI sling clips and unclips quite nicely. The front works fine while you're shooting. When you're done shooting, though, and need to clear the line, you will need to get your arm out of the sling, safe & clear the rifle, score targets/load mags/talk/drink/whatever and then get back into the sling, adjust it, try to find the same spot on your arm, adjust again and waste valuable prep time.

With a quick disconnect, you can remove the sling from the rifle, and then leave the sling on your arm until the next course of fire - no constant readjusting. It's not impossible to use the fixed sling swivels - but I quickly figured out that the QDs are easier, especially on Sunday of an Appleseed.
Click to expand...


That's so obvious it's brilliant. I never would have thought to do that but it's staring you right in the face. Thanks!
 
Bob P said:
That's so obvious it's brilliant. I never would have thought to do that but it's staring you right in the face. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yep, buy the QD ones. Stratocaster, those Uncle Mikes are perfect - the set I should have bought, instead of being cheap and using what I had lying around the bench.
 
My advice? Buy TWO sets and leave the spare set in your range bag. We had two swivels die at the Athol shoot.

I know that I'll be stocking spare sets from now on. [thinking]
 
I bought the swivel/mount set, a set of machine screw/wood screw mounts, AND a set of dual wood screw mounts. [smile]

I like to be prepared

Edit: Has anybody tried through bolting the front mount and using a washer with nut in a counterbored hole under the barrel? That would solve mounts being "pulled" out of the stock
 
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Stratocaster1422 said:
Edit: Has anybody tried through bolting the front mount and using a washer with nut in a counterbored hole under the barrel? That would solve mounts being "pulled" out of the stock
Click to expand...

That makes no sense. The screw/nut version has the nut in a counterbore, and trust me, they DON'T pull out. The washer would be counterproductive, as that will keep the sides of the nut from holding the wood.
 
KMM696 said:
While we're talking slings & studs,...
image
...
Click to expand...

FYI, that looks just like the rear swivel on the 10/22 Target. When I went to replace it with a quick-disconnect I found out the "eye" wasn't a through hole. But after a quick trip over to the work bench with a cordless drill it was!

The front stud on a 10/22 Target does have a through hole. Now I have to install the studs for my wife's carbine.

Is there a way to measure the right location for the front stud for a short shooter? If I have the wife hold the rifle in a good position, I want the front stud 1, 2, ?? inches in front of her hand? I'm going to truncate the fore-end as much as possible for her so she has less to hold up.

thanks,
Chuck
 
Nickle said:
That makes no sense. The screw/nut version has the nut in a counterbore, and trust me, they DON'T pull out. The washer would be counterproductive, as that will keep the sides of the nut from holding the wood.
Click to expand...

I think I figured out where I got confused!

When Dwarven1 said:

dwarven1 said:
The hole for the nut isn't a through hole, though - it's just deep enough to embed the nut below the level of the wood around it. The wood at the forend is about an inch thick or so. If you have a drill press, that's the best to use. Otherwise, get a drillbit with a stop that you can put on it so you don't go too deep.
Click to expand...

For some reason, I took it as NOTHING was a through hole. So you remove the stock, drill a clearance hole for the bolt all the way through the front end of the stock, then make a counterbore for the nut to sit in under the barrel.
 
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Stratocaster1422 said:
For some reason, I took it as NOTHING was a through hole. So you remove the stock, drill a clearance hole for the bolt all the way through the front end of the stock, then make a counterbore for the nut to sit in under the barrel.
Click to expand...

Ouch... My bad; I'm sorry. There's a small through hole the diameter of the stud threads. There's a larger hole that does not go all the way through bored from inside the stock, just under the barrel, where the nut goes down into.

Is that clearer, or did I just confuse matters more?
 
I am apprehensive in posting this, I don't want to confuse the issue. I used blind nuts for my front swivel. The countersink hole is less critical. Those are just a representaion of a blind nut and not the exact ones I used.
 
Picked up my 10/22 today and have parts on order to make it into a LTR. I've been researching this and was wondering where all of you decide to mount the studs for the slings. Also, is it worth getting the centering jig to drill the holes if you do not have a drill press?
 
colt_fan said:
Picked up my 10/22 today and have parts on order to make it into a LTR. I've been researching this and was wondering where all of you decide to mount the studs for the slings. Also, is it worth getting the centering jig to drill the holes if you do not have a drill press?
Click to expand...

Look back a few pages on this thread.

The centering jig is good, if the appearance after concerns you, and you're willing to pay the cost. I didn't use one myself.
 
Finally got around to taking a photo. I'm a crappy photographer as you can tell.

The basic 10/22 carbine with sling, tech sights, VQ bolt release & target trigger/hammer

016.jpg
 
Hey! That looks just like mine except for the sling, WHICH HASN'T ARRIVED yet from Midway.

Question for the LTR Doctors: I have several of the more or less generic canvas slings that came with the Mosin buy last year. Will this work just as well or is there some essential length/size/dimension of the sling spec'd in the parts list?
 
Can't tell without seeing them - the sling that came with MY Mosin wasn't real adjustable for length, IIRC. Can you post a pic or two?
 

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