This is what is most recommended for LTRs:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=174603
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
-
Be sure to enter the NES/MFS June Giveaway ***Keltec SUB2000***
The Liberty Training Rifle
- Thread starter dwarven1
- Start date
This is what is most recommended for LTRs:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=174603
MaverickNH
NES Member
I asked Kidd - they said to file down the stake on the guide rod and slip the cocking handle off. Their Guide Rod/Spring Kit uses the cocking handle. The cocking handle and guide rod don't need to be staked to work fine they said.
KMM696
NES Member
They are right - but assembly was easier for me with the rod staked, so I restaked it after I polished the rod. Worked great unstaked, though. Try it unstaked first.
OK... I've been trying to get my LTR to work for weeks now and it's given me nothing but problems. Now I'm just flat out of time. So rather then mess with it, I just plunked down the coin to have an pre-built trigger housing by Kid Innovative Design overnighted to me. It cost me more then the gun did but I'm damn sure it will work unlike this Volquartsen kit that has given be nothing but headache ever since I bought it. I don't know if it just doesn't want to play well with my rifle (I have a very old one but it's not like they've changed their specs right?) or if their product is the problem. Everybody raved about them so I don't know why I'm having such issues. If anybody wants a full Volquartsen kit (adjustable trigger, sear, hammer, shims, springs, kitchen sink, partridge in a pear tree) then let me know. I'll bring it to the appleseed and if it works in your gun, it's yours (for a paltry fee ![[wink]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/002.gif "Wink [wink]")
)
My next quick question: Bedding? Can anybody suggest any bedding techniques for the 1022? I've seen many with that little band taken off and some... well... who-knows-what stuffed under where the band was. Any ideas?
)My next quick question: Bedding? Can anybody suggest any bedding techniques for the 1022? I've seen many with that little band taken off and some... well... who-knows-what stuffed under where the band was. Any ideas?
I know everybody likes to customize rifles, and I'm not making any judgements. But I'd like to remind everyone that there's a point where time/money sunk into a single 10/22 goes past the point of diminishing returns for Appleseed purposes (since this is the Appleseed forum, and not rimfire central).
The money would probably be better spent (for Appleseed purposes) on your main rifle/ammo or outfitting family or friend with their own 10/22 and ammo for training.
Just wanted to throw that out there...
The money would probably be better spent (for Appleseed purposes) on your main rifle/ammo or outfitting family or friend with their own 10/22 and ammo for training.
Just wanted to throw that out there...
Last edited:
dwarven1
Lonely Mountain Arms
Bedding? Custom triggers? I'm with Crak here - you're spending WAY too much time and money on that thing.
The whole point of the LTR is that it's a cheap way to get a LOT of trigger time in! The 10/22 is not, and was never intended to be, a sniper rifle. The LTR is supposed to emulate a RACK GRADE military surplus rifle. If it shoots 4 MOA with trigger that's not too G-d-awful, that's all you need!
Honestly, the most expensive thing that's gone into my LTRs (other than initial purchase) has been the SIGHTS. A Weaver K7 off eBay for about $70 on one, and the Tech-Sights on the other.
Bring your stock trigger assembly to the shoot this weekend and I'll try and look at it during lunch. I'll bring my vise, a drill rod and a set of fine files and show you how to smooth it up.
The whole point of the LTR is that it's a cheap way to get a LOT of trigger time in! The 10/22 is not, and was never intended to be, a sniper rifle. The LTR is supposed to emulate a RACK GRADE military surplus rifle. If it shoots 4 MOA with trigger that's not too G-d-awful, that's all you need!
Honestly, the most expensive thing that's gone into my LTRs (other than initial purchase) has been the SIGHTS. A Weaver K7 off eBay for about $70 on one, and the Tech-Sights on the other.
Bring your stock trigger assembly to the shoot this weekend and I'll try and look at it during lunch. I'll bring my vise, a drill rod and a set of fine files and show you how to smooth it up.
Oh don't get me wrong. If we weren't four days away I would never have spent even half of that money on the LTR project. But we are so my options were getting more and more limited.
Besides. I'd rather spend stupid money ONCE on something I KNOW will work then spend "reasonable" money many times on something that doesn't. I've already dropped well over $150 trying to fix the problems that have already popped up. I'm sick of dumping money into what's looking like a black hole of a problem. With the KIDD trigger, I knew that would be the last of the money I would spend.
And even with all of that aside... I'm not JUST doing this for Appleseed. I've been wanting to trick out my ruger for years. I'm now just getting around to it![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
Besides. I'd rather spend stupid money ONCE on something I KNOW will work then spend "reasonable" money many times on something that doesn't. I've already dropped well over $150 trying to fix the problems that have already popped up. I'm sick of dumping money into what's looking like a black hole of a problem. With the KIDD trigger, I knew that would be the last of the money I would spend.
And even with all of that aside... I'm not JUST doing this for Appleseed. I've been wanting to trick out my ruger for years. I'm now just getting around to it
While I won't be able to get to the Appleseed this weekend I'd like to have a look at the cartridge in a bare tree kit from Volk you've got for sale.
Really all I'd like to do is the stoned hammer/bolt release tricks on my otherwise stock rifle.
I totally understand the "modding" of the thing taking away from the "purpose" of the thing - I own a Jeep after all. I try to keep things just slightly modded from stock and those mods had better have a high rate of return - lessons learned the hard way.
I see emphasis in competition shooting such as IPSC and to a limited extent CMP as equipment driven. I really liked the IROC concept and think it was under rated and over commercialized.
I'd like to see a gun competition start with random numbers picked and competitors opening NIB guns, 1 rag, 1 can of Hoppes #9, 1 rod/brush kit, 1 can oil, 100 rounds to break in, 1k rounds for the match.
Or a "Gumball Rally" drawing - everyone shows with enough gear for the tourney. Each player pick from a hat - whatever gun is picked, that player shoots for the tourney.
How would you do shooting an unfamiliar gun?
Uh, sorry for the tangent - interested in parts, sorry I can't make the meet. Very jealous actually
Really all I'd like to do is the stoned hammer/bolt release tricks on my otherwise stock rifle.
I totally understand the "modding" of the thing taking away from the "purpose" of the thing - I own a Jeep after all. I try to keep things just slightly modded from stock and those mods had better have a high rate of return - lessons learned the hard way.
I see emphasis in competition shooting such as IPSC and to a limited extent CMP as equipment driven. I really liked the IROC concept and think it was under rated and over commercialized.
I'd like to see a gun competition start with random numbers picked and competitors opening NIB guns, 1 rag, 1 can of Hoppes #9, 1 rod/brush kit, 1 can oil, 100 rounds to break in, 1k rounds for the match.
Or a "Gumball Rally" drawing - everyone shows with enough gear for the tourney. Each player pick from a hat - whatever gun is picked, that player shoots for the tourney.
How would you do shooting an unfamiliar gun?
Uh, sorry for the tangent - interested in parts, sorry I can't make the meet. Very jealous actually
dwarven1
Lonely Mountain Arms
Fairly well, I'd hope. One of the ideas behind turning folks into Riflemen is that you should be able to pick up a rifle, fire one sighting shot, and proceed to keep shooting on target.
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?board=119.0
My search skills suck. Can anyone here refer me to a thread or reply or outside source that will allow me to print off some AQT targets so I can practice a bit? In lieu of the actual targets, any idea of other available targets that might approximate these targets (eg.50 foot .22 slow fire, timed and rapid etc.). Thanks.
namedpipes
NES Member
This looks like what you're looking for.
You can also buy them (I believe inexpensively) from "Fred". Go to the Appleseed website and you'll find liks to his site there.
RichM
Retired Army Veteran
Hi, Appleseed gurus!
I'm considering an upcoming Appleseed. I have a Thompson Center Classic .22 that is nicely accurate (I'm shooting 1 1/4" groups of 10 at 25 yards). It has sling studs, and I plan on getting swivels and a sling for it.
My question concerns the sights: It has fiber optic sights (they look like the Williams FireSights) as the standard factory sights. The rear sight is:
Obviously, that doesn't allow for (easy) windage or elevation adjustments. I know that I can use this for the 25-meter event coming up, but should I consider changing them to something like the Tech Sights?
I have plenty of experience in using standard Mil-Spec open sights (US Army), and I have an M-1 Garand, although I don't plan on using that for an entire Appleseed due to the expense of the ammo.
Thanks for your help; I look forward to seeing you all soon!
I'm considering an upcoming Appleseed. I have a Thompson Center Classic .22 that is nicely accurate (I'm shooting 1 1/4" groups of 10 at 25 yards). It has sling studs, and I plan on getting swivels and a sling for it.
My question concerns the sights: It has fiber optic sights (they look like the Williams FireSights) as the standard factory sights. The rear sight is:
Obviously, that doesn't allow for (easy) windage or elevation adjustments. I know that I can use this for the 25-meter event coming up, but should I consider changing them to something like the Tech Sights?
I have plenty of experience in using standard Mil-Spec open sights (US Army), and I have an M-1 Garand, although I don't plan on using that for an entire Appleseed due to the expense of the ammo.
- I don't know if the Tech Sights will be a drop-in for the existing rear sight;
- Should I also change out the front sight;
- Should I just use the existing sights for 25-meter work and adjust point-of-aim for longer distances; or
- Are there other drop-in sights to use for this rifle?
Thanks for your help; I look forward to seeing you all soon!
Attachments
RichM
Retired Army Veteran
Thanks, guys... I'm able to group well with it (first time I've used fiber optic sights... they're easy to pick up!).
I was just concerned that I couldn't make windage or elevation adjustments during a course of fire. Once I confirm zero, I'm steady at that point of aim and at that distance.
I may go ahead and put an inexpensive scope on it anyway... my eyes aren't getting any younger, and bifocals stink!
I was just concerned that I couldn't make windage or elevation adjustments during a course of fire. Once I confirm zero, I'm steady at that point of aim and at that distance.
I may go ahead and put an inexpensive scope on it anyway... my eyes aren't getting any younger, and bifocals stink!
I shot an Appleseed last fall in CT with the same rifle. I replaced the rear fiber optic with a Williams 5D receiver sight, but kept the factory front fiber optic. In bright sun it was hard to maintain a good sight picture because the fiber optic was so bright it appeared fuzzy. Especially difficult on the 400m targets. Williams sells brass bead front sights, but I haven't invested in one yet. I think I would prefer a plain blade up front.
I also wish I had spent the extra $32 and gotten the FP instead of the 5D (elevation and windage micrometer adjusted). Elevation adjustment on the 5D is easy, but once you get it loosened up to adjust windage it is hard to keep the sight in one place as you lock it down again.
RichM
Retired Army Veteran
Thanks, Ogre...
Can you point me to which sights to use?
As to the front sight... for an Appleseed, couldn't you just remove the optic string from the blade? Or even possibly cover one end of the fiber with boot black (and turn it around for when you want the dot back?
Thanks again for your help!
Can you point me to which sights to use?
As to the front sight... for an Appleseed, couldn't you just remove the optic string from the blade? Or even possibly cover one end of the fiber with boot black (and turn it around for when you want the dot back?
Thanks again for your help!
Their web pages are woefully out of date. Look in their 2008 price list or the 2009 catalog (pdf).
CODE NO. - SIGHT - RETAIL
70887 - WILLIAMS FP-T/C R-55 - $70.95
70888 - WILLIAMS FP-T/C R-55 WITH TARGET KNOBS - $82.50
70891 - WILLIAMS 5D T/C R-55 - $38.95
I hadn't considered these options, but they might be good solutions for short money. Since my plan was to replace the fiber optic altogether, I don't care if I can return it to its original function or not. Hell, I might just spray the whole thing matte black.
Other way to on the studs. Machine screw up front, wood screw in the rear. Or, you could use the 2 wood screw type stud set.
I would look for the proper sling and swivels the first time, even if you go through another source.
I've got a friend in VA that sells better slings than the DPMS sling. Let me know if you want his contact info.
I would look for the proper sling and swivels the first time, even if you go through another source.
I've got a friend in VA that sells better slings than the DPMS sling. Let me know if you want his contact info.
Where does the machine screw go in up front?
Definitely interested in that contact info.
Yeah it's a 10/22 Carbine. So you use the machine screw directly threaded into the wood so it acts like a wood screw?
Thanks for the info BTW.
Thanks for the info BTW.
dwarven1
Lonely Mountain Arms
You have to sink a hole in the stock from the inside to put the nut for that screw in - it embeds itself into the stock as you screw the stud in.
Wow, talk about a light bulb turning on after that statement.
![[rofl]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/013.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
Makes MUCH more sense now!
dwarven1
Lonely Mountain Arms
The hole for the nut isn't a through hole, though - it's just deep enough to embed the nut below the level of the wood around it. The wood at the forend is about an inch thick or so. If you have a drill press, that's the best to use. Otherwise, get a drillbit with a stop that you can put on it so you don't go too deep.
Glad I could help.
Glad I could help.
