What did you do in the reloading room recently?

[greencobra]

I didnt think of reaching out to them. Looked on their site but didnt think of just asking. Figured its just the cost of doing business.

twice i just emailed saying i needed pins, they were breaking. i included my address. they never replied but 3 days later a little envelope shows up with several of each type of pin...both times they did that. they drew the line when i asked for a new baffle for the powder measure. lol

 

[TrashcanDan]

For lead reclamation?

Yea.
Curiosity more than anything else.
Mixed acid is pretty easy to neutralize. Its not an instant process, it just has to be rendered non-corrosive.
These are at least twice the size of the group 31's that I typically use.
They're cooked. Deep fried. Thankfully the building maint guys don't know how to add water to the individual cells, so they were either empty, or close. Cases are bulged from overheating due to charging. When I ordered replacements they were about $600 per. These came out of machines that were just worn out.
So far I'm 1lb of baking soda per battery. I'll probably add more today.
Not small little things either, they look like this, about 16" tall-

 

[Uzi2]

How are you testing the acidity?

 

[TrashcanDan]

How are you testing the acidity?

Right now, multimeter across the terminals.
Even dead batteries will have some trace voltage or amperage.
I could "back yard it" by drawing some out of each cell and squirting on the grass somewhere here at work and see what the after affect is after a few days.
I could get litmus paper, but that'll just tell me if its acid or base.
My mixing ratio is loosely based off a demolitions class I took many many moons ago, where A X B + P = amount, or Acid volume X Baking soda volume + Plenty extra. I'm going the overkill route with neutralizer.
At some point it will be waaaaaaaaaaaay less caustic and corrosive than what the state puts down on the roads after a snowstorm.

If it was a maint-free car battery or lawnmower battery I wouldn't even bother. Those really aren't worth the effort, and for those trying to justify cost, it would pay out more to run it to the scrapyard or as a core.

So far its cost me $6 for an unknown amount of lead yield. I can say that the empty one (or was empty before the baking soda mix) had some heft to it. Definitely was a two hand lift, and I don't exactly have noodle arms.

 

[mac1911]

Right now, multimeter across the terminals.
Even dead batteries will have some trace voltage or amperage.
I could "back yard it" by drawing some out of each cell and squirting on the grass somewhere here at work and see what the after affect is after a few days.
I could get litmus paper, but that'll just tell me if its acid or base.
My mixing ratio is loosely based off a demolitions class I took many many moons ago, where A X B + P = amount, or Acid volume X Baking soda volume + Plenty extra. I'm going the overkill route with neutralizer.
At some point it will be waaaaaaaaaaaay less caustic and corrosive than what the state puts down on the roads after a snowstorm.

If it was a maint-free car battery or lawnmower battery I wouldn't even bother. Those really aren't worth the effort, and for those trying to justify cost, it would pay out more to run it to the scrapyard or as a core.

So far its cost me $6 for an unknown amount of lead yield. I can say that the empty one (or was empty before the baking soda mix) had some heft to it. Definitely was a two hand lift, and I don't exactly have noodle arms.

hope you get a good yeild.
Lots of nasty stuff on those plates.

 

[Uzi2]

Right now, multimeter across the terminals.
Even dead batteries will have some trace voltage or amperage.
I could "back yard it" by drawing some out of each cell and squirting on the grass somewhere here at work and see what the after affect is after a few days.
I could get litmus paper, but that'll just tell me if its acid or base.
My mixing ratio is loosely based off a demolitions class I took many many moons ago, where A X B + P = amount, or Acid volume X Baking soda volume + Plenty extra. I'm going the overkill route with neutralizer.
At some point it will be waaaaaaaaaaaay less caustic and corrosive than what the state puts down on the roads after a snowstorm.

If it was a maint-free car battery or lawnmower battery I wouldn't even bother. Those really aren't worth the effort, and for those trying to justify cost, it would pay out more to run it to the scrapyard or as a core.

So far its cost me $6 for an unknown amount of lead yield. I can say that the empty one (or was empty before the baking soda mix) had some heft to it. Definitely was a two hand lift, and I don't exactly have noodle arms.

I had a dozen 2 volt, 287 amp hour Gould cells that had 1/4 in lead plates in them. Each cell weighed about 150lbs and had about 2gal of electrolyte in it. I kept 100lbs of baking soda on hand always in case of a spill.

I gave them away before moving......my truck was already at its weight limit with more precious cargo.

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

Right now, multimeter across the terminals.
Even dead batteries will have some trace voltage or amperage.
I could "back yard it" by drawing some out of each cell and squirting on the grass somewhere here at work and see what the after affect is after a few days.
I could get litmus paper, but that'll just tell me if its acid or base.
My mixing ratio is loosely based off a demolitions class I took many many moons ago, where A X B + P = amount, or Acid volume X Baking soda volume + Plenty extra. I'm going the overkill route with neutralizer.
At some point it will be waaaaaaaaaaaay less caustic and corrosive than what the state puts down on the roads after a snowstorm.

If it was a maint-free car battery or lawnmower battery I wouldn't even bother. Those really aren't worth the effort, and for those trying to justify cost, it would pay out more to run it to the scrapyard or as a core.

So far its cost me $6 for an unknown amount of lead yield. I can say that the empty one (or was empty before the baking soda mix) had some heft to it. Definitely was a two hand lift, and I don't exactly have noodle arms.

Do some research on this. I’ve read that there is some serious nasty stuff to deal with reclaiming batteries.
Supposedly not something that can be done easily or safely at home.
Now that being said, I am not a chemist. I know nothing about the subject other than what some seemingly well informed members on castboolits wrote about it.
All signed pointed to it being dangerous and to stay away

Rereading a little bit now refreshed my memory. Cadmium is the problem

 

[TrashcanDan]

Do some research on this. I’ve read that there is some serious nasty stuff to deal with reclaiming batteries.
Supposedly not something that can be done easily or safely at home.
Now that being said, I am not a chemist. I know nothing about the subject other than what some seemingly well informed members on castboolits wrote about it.
All signed pointed to it being dangerous and to stay away

Rereading a little bit now refreshed my memory. Cadmium is the problem

There is, but keep in mind gets handled like everything else, and its no more or less hazardous than burning pressure treated wood, burning down wheel weights covered in rubberized undercoating, or creating a controlled explosion in a brass case with a detonator and flashpowder with a lead stopper at the end.

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

There is, but keep in mind gets handled like everything else, and its no more or less hazardous than burning pressure treated wood, burning down wheel weights covered in rubberized undercoating, or creating a controlled explosion in a brass case with a detonator and flashpowder with a lead stopper at the end.

Go for it! Let us know the yield.

 

[Uzi2]

There is, but keep in mind gets handled like everything else, and its no more or less hazardous than burning pressure treated wood, burning down wheel weights covered in rubberized undercoating, or creating a controlled explosion in a brass case with a detonator and flashpowder with a lead stopper at the end.

I wouldn't recommend "flash"...you know why.

 

[Uzi2]

Just came from the post office, 200 new Starline 44spl brass.

 

[kerryman71]

Update on the Fiocchi Small Rifle Primers used for small pistol.

Fired 10 RMR 124 gr FMJRN using the Fiocchi primers, mixed brass and 5.4 grains Alliant BE 86, averaging 1124 fps. Using Federal 100 SPP and 5.5 grains of the same powder I averaged 1115 fps. Max on BE 86 with that setup is 5.8 grains.

Had one FTF with the Fiocchi primers. Checked the round which had a good primer strike, reloaded it and it fired no problem.

Handgun used is an HK VP9. Barrel didn't blow up, no noticeable issues, etc. On a side note, I fired 100 reloads using HP 38 for the first time and found that I really liked that powder, particularly when I got up to the higher load range of about 4.7 grains.

 

[xtry51]

Fiocchis tend to be hard. Even their oem pistol ammo. I had a class where a few peoples guns would not reliably fire fiocchi 9mm. I ended up swapping my ammo with the guy who brought it. It ran fine in my stock G34 but I would never buy Fiocchi again based on that experience.

Eta: This was factory Fiocchi 9mm ammo. Not reloads with Fiocchi.

 

[Uzi2]

Update on the Fiocchi Small Rifle Primers used for small pistol.

Fired 10 RMR 124 gr FMJRN using the Fiocchi primers, mixed brass and 5.4 grains Alliant BE 86, averaging 1124 fps. Using Federal 100 SPP and 5.5 grains of the same powder I averaged 1115 fps. Max on BE 86 with that setup is 5.8 grains.

Had one FTF with the Fiocchi primers. Checked the round which had a good primer strike, reloaded it and it fired no problem.

Handgun used is an HK VP9. Barrel didn't blow up, no noticeable issues, etc. On a side note, I fired 100 reloads using HP 38 for the first time and found that I really liked that powder, particularly when I got up to the higher load range of about 4.7 grains.

I'd say you more than likley had a primer that was not seated correctly. The first strike seated it better and the second strike detonated the primer.

 

[Uzi2]

Fiocchis tend to be hard. Even their oem pistol ammo. I had a class where a few peoples guns would not reliably fire fiocchi 9mm. I ended up swapping my ammo with the guy who brought it. It ran fine in my stock G34 but I would never buy Fiocchi again based on that experience.

Eta: This was factory Fiocchi 9mm ammo. Not reloads with Fiocchi.

Granted.....but he is talking about reloads with Fiocci small rifle primers in pistol ammo.
His most likely suspect problem is with a less than optimally seated primer as it only happened once in a hundred rounds.

 

[kerryman71]

I'd say you more than likley had a primer that was not seated correctly. The first strike seated it better and the second strike detonated the primer.

That makes sense. When I made up the loads there was one round where the primer sat a little high. Not so much that I felt it would be an issue, but I also wasn't going to try to seat it deeper fully charged. Thanks for that insight.

 

[kerryman71]

Fiocchis tend to be hard. Even their oem pistol ammo. I had a class where a few peoples guns would not reliably fire fiocchi 9mm. I ended up swapping my ammo with the guy who brought it. It ran fine in my stock G34 but I would never buy Fiocchi again based on that experience.

Eta: This was factory Fiocchi 9mm ammo. Not reloads with Fiocchi.

Thanks for the input. I'm going with the primer not being fully seated that was mentioned. There was one that sat a little high, and I've put close to 7K rounds through my VP9 without an issue, and one case of that was Fiocchi factory ammo.

 

[DW357]

Update on the Fiocchi Small Rifle Primers used for small pistol.

Fired 10 RMR 124 gr FMJRN using the Fiocchi primers, mixed brass and 5.4 grains Alliant BE 86, averaging 1124 fps. Using Federal 100 SPP and 5.5 grains of the same powder I averaged 1115 fps. Max on BE 86 with that setup is 5.8 grains.

Had one FTF with the Fiocchi primers. Checked the round which had a good primer strike, reloaded it and it fired no problem.

Handgun used is an HK VP9. Barrel didn't blow up, no noticeable issues, etc. On a side note, I fired 100 reloads using HP 38 for the first time and found that I really liked that powder, particularly when I got up to the higher load range of about 4.7 grains.

Nice!

 

[kerryman71]

Ordered 1K .223 55 gr FMJBT bullets online, in bulk. 119.00 shipped.

 

[DW357]

Ordered 1K .223 55 gr FMJBT bullets online, in bulk. 119.00 shipped.

Want to PM me the source? I don’t really need any but was curious who had them.

 

[Mudflap621]

Want to PM me the source? I don’t really need any but was curious who had them.

I’m interested in well if sharing. Threw bunch of 308,300, and 270 in the tumbler. Got 3-400 clean 223 gotta decap and sort. Is it worth sorting them?I went through a cpl hundred last night and justpulled out the LC but there was a bunch of federal as well that worth isolating?

 

[mac1911]

There is, but keep in mind gets handled like everything else, and its no more or less hazardous than burning pressure treated wood, burning down wheel weights covered in rubberized undercoating, or creating a controlled explosion in a brass case with a detonator and flashpowder with a lead stopper at the end.

i guess if your not huffing the smoke...
Seems like a lot of work to me. Being a auto mechanic i have torn down a few batteries just for looksee . Pretty tough .
Maybe find recycler willing to pay by the pound?

 

[jek]

Still making .223. I finally ran out of Hornady 55 FMJBT and switched to RMR. I am really disappointed in the variability in the length of the RMR bullets. I wonder if this is why they give more cannelure than the Hornadys. I am seeing a range of almost .025". Are others seeing this as well?

 

[mac1911]

Still making .223. I finally ran out of Hornady 55 FMJBT and switched to RMR. I am really disappointed in the variability in the length of the RMR bullets. I wonder if this is why they give more cannelure than the Hornadys. I am seeing a range of almost .025". Are others seeing this as well?

i dont know the deal with RMR but they seem to deal with a lot of pulls and 2nds.
If they are bulk 55s load them up and shoot them.

 

[xtry51]

Loaded (20) 115gr Hornady XTP 9mm to test tomorrow. I settled on 1.105" OAL. I'm skeptical of the hornady listed 1.050 and Lyman 1.090 OALs. I'm using Titegroup (4.8gr) and seating that deep seems like a recipe for pressure spiking to me.

If they feed good at this length, I'm going to stick with it. Anyone have experience with these bullets? Pics here below. Comparison round is a 115gr Berry's which I use for training. Those are 1.150" OAL. The Berry's are .555" long while the XTP are .545" long. Not a huge diff which is why I'm not confident seating down to 1.050" is a good idea.

 

[mac1911]

Loaded (20) 115gr Hornady XTP 9mm to test tomorrow. I settled on 1.105" OAL. I'm skeptical of the hornady listed 1.050 and Lyman 1.090 OALs. I'm using Titegroup (4.8gr) and seating that deep seems like a recipe for pressure spiking to me.

If they feed good at this length, I'm going to stick with it. Anyone have experience with these bullets? Pics here below. Comparison round is a 115gr Berry's which I use for training. Those are 1.150" OAL. The Berry's are .555" long while the XTP are .545" long. Not a huge diff which is why I'm not confident seating down to 1.050" is a good idea.

View attachment 384462View attachment 384463View attachment 384464View attachment 384465View attachment 384466

I think the manufacture loads them "short" as they tend to jam if to long. Same bullet but in 45acp i had feeding issues when loaded long.
Then again the manufacture gives you the min COAL. If they feed its good.

 

[slap shot]

My first case trimmer. 153 6.5 CM cases trimmed, deburred and pockets cleaned while listening to 1 Bill Burr podcast. I love this machine.

 

[jek]

If they are bulk 55s load them up and shoot them.

That’s the plan.

 

[mu2bdriver]

Managed to find the last two, one-pound containers of Bullseye for under $30/ea. Running low on 45 target stuff.

 

[greencobra]

i mentioned in other posts i was going to start loading 7.62x39 range ammo. when i bought my 7.62x32 rcbs dies, i got the regular fl set but wondering if i should have got the small base set instead. i have limited experience loading for semi auto rifles so not sure if i'll experience the extraction issues that should be caused by not sizing with the small base die. i figured full length sizing instead of just neck sizing would have solved that. for what it's worth, my 5.56 reloads are just full length sized and function fine. any thoughts.....