What did you do in the reloading room recently?

Finally got to load my first batch of 308 to get tested. Bullets are Midsouth match-monster 168gr hpbt. I charged from 42.5-44gr of Varget in half grain increments, five of each. I think it went well although took my time and used my beam scale and lee scoops. I checked all finished cartridges and my CBTO was within a thousandth between 20 cartridges.
Loaded them on the Mec Marksman with some Redding dies. I opted for the micrometer seating die and it’s pretty slick. When I was dialing in my seating depth it was nice to measure and than just dial down the micrometer.
Another observation was the Redding lock rings suck donkey. I felt like I was going to smash threads on die and it still wouldn’t hold. I’ve ordered a pack of Hornady lock rings to swap them out. Pics or it didn’t happen... CC1AD9AE-396E-4A45-A6A5-E6EF440DA9C2.jpeg 9BE0DEDB-4BB4-4901-A8E7-D08668991886.jpeg
 
i always wondered if anyone actually used those stickers! i'm sure i have a stack of them around somewhere.

personally, i use a post-it note, and make a little matrix/map of what rounds are where in my box.

also, FYI, the load you have dialed in is also my (not-so) 'secret' recipe for 200yd 30-06 out of a USGI Garand. 43gr Varget in a commercial case w/CCI 200 primer and a 168gr Nosler or Sierra HPBT...got me a 99/100 from prone once in the winter warrior match that mountain ran a few years back. It's a relatively light load in comparison to what most guys shoot, but it cycled my action every time, and I could shoot it all day without getting a sore shoulder.

in .308 though, i'm predicting that the 44gr neighborhood is where you'll find your best performance. you can even go a c*** hair higher than that if you don't have any pressure signs at 44 (depending on what you're shooting...if M1A/M14, use caution)
 
76Too said:
i always wondered if anyone actually used those stickers! i'm sure i have a stack of them around somewhere.

personally, i use a post-it note, and make a little matrix/map of what rounds are where in my box.

also, FYI, the load you have dialed in is also my (not-so) 'secret' recipe for 200yd 30-06 out of a USGI Garand. 43gr Varget in a commercial case w/CCI 200 primer and a 168gr Nosler or Sierra HPBT...got me a 99/100 from prone once in the winter warrior match that mountain ran a few years back. It's a relatively light load in comparison to what most guys shoot, but it cycled my action every time, and I could shoot it all day without getting a sore shoulder.

in .308 though, i'm predicting that the 44gr neighborhood is where you'll find your best performance. you can even go a c*** hair higher than that if you don't have any pressure signs at 44 (depending on what you're shooting...if M1A/M14, use caution)
Click to expand...

First time using the stickers lol they were in the box. These are going in a CA Ridgeline that’s my fathers. Since I’m used to throwing 4 grains of sport pistol haha I figured I’d work up from the bottom and inspect cases while we go see what they look like and go from there. Hopefully one of the groups will show promise if not back to the drawing board.
 
Mudflap621 said:
First time using the stickers lol they were in the box. These are going in a CA Ridgeline that’s my fathers. Since I’m used to throwing 4 grains of sport pistol haha I figured I’d work up from the bottom and inspect cases while we go see what they look like and go from there. Hopefully one of the groups will show promise if not back to the drawing board.
Click to expand...

Nice looking rifle! I've never even heard of one and just had to look it up.

But yes...EAAAASE into rifle at first. Then look at 'ladder testing' once you're comfortable. I'm just getting into it myself for my bolt guns, but it's saving me a LOT of time/frustration/wear and tear on brass/rifle barrel.

I still think you'll find 44gr to be sufficient, but you may have a little wiggle room to go up from there if need be to get the standard deviation where you want it.

Are you using a chronograph at all, or just shooting for accurate groups? yardage? rest/lead sled/sand bags?
 
Mudflap621 said:
First time using the stickers lol they were in the box. These are going in a CA Ridgeline that’s my fathers. Since I’m used to throwing 4 grains of sport pistol haha I figured I’d work up from the bottom and inspect cases while we go see what they look like and go from there. Hopefully one of the groups will show promise if not back to the drawing board.
Click to expand...
Those stickers are a fvcker to remove...
 
76Too said:
i always wondered if anyone actually used those stickers! i'm sure i have a stack of them around somewhere.

personally, i use a post-it note, and make a little matrix/map of what rounds are where in my box.

also, FYI, the load you have dialed in is also my (not-so) 'secret' recipe for 200yd 30-06 out of a USGI Garand. 43gr Varget in a commercial case w/CCI 200 primer and a 168gr Nosler or Sierra HPBT...got me a 99/100 from prone once in the winter warrior match that mountain ran a few years back. It's a relatively light load in comparison to what most guys shoot, but it cycled my action every time, and I could shoot it all day without getting a sore shoulder.

in .308 though, i'm predicting that the 44gr neighborhood is where you'll find your best performance. you can even go a c*** hair higher than that if you don't have any pressure signs at 44 (depending on what you're shooting...if M1A/M14, use caution)
Click to expand...

I settled on 42 grains of Varget with a 168 SMK for my old mans M1A. So accurate. A touch on the slower slide but they ran fine.

I use those sticker but like wegman says below they are a PITA to remove. So I cut them apart and keep the backing on. Toss the whole deal into a box with the ammo. It’s just for a touch of reference, I can always refer back to the manual to see all the details.

Mainly just put the powder and charge weight on it.

wegman said:
Those stickers are a fvcker to remove...
Click to expand...
 
Mudflap621 said:
Finally got to load my first batch of 308 to get tested. Bullets are Midsouth match-monster 168gr hpbt. I charged from 42.5-44gr of Varget in half grain increments, five of each. I think it went well although took my time and used my beam scale and lee scoops. I checked all finished cartridges and my CBTO was within a thousandth between 20 cartridges.
Loaded them on the Mec Marksman with some Redding dies. I opted for the micrometer seating die and it’s pretty slick. When I was dialing in my seating depth it was nice to measure and than just dial down the micrometer.
Another observation was the Redding lock rings suck donkey. I felt like I was going to smash threads on die and it still wouldn’t hold. I’ve ordered a pack of Hornady lock rings to swap them out. Pics or it didn’t happen...View attachment 386602View attachment 386603
Click to expand...
Nice,
Now are you going to round robin style test these?
or let the barrel cool completely between groups?

It took me some time to warm up to the Optimum Charge Weight method .
Dan Newberry's OCW Load Development System

I dont get to hung up on crony testing until im looking to dial in more precises testing. These days i dont go to crazy since Im not shooting as well as my ammo can. 3 moa with iron sights is a very good day for me. Even better when i can actually put the group where it is supposed to be!
 
mac1911 said:
Nice,
Now are you going to round robin style test these?
or let the barrel cool completely between groups?

It took me some time to warm up to the Optimum Charge Weight method .
Dan Newberry's OCW Load Development System

I dont get to hung up on crony testing until im looking to dial in more precises testing. These days i dont go to crazy since Im not shooting as well as my ammo can. 3 moa with iron sights is a very good day for me. Even better when i can actually put the group where it is supposed to be!
Click to expand...

No chrono yet but it’s in the works another reason starting low. I’ve been hinting to my father he should buy one since he’s the one that persuaded me to load rifle for him lol.
I’m was thinking we were going to try let the barrel cool as much as possible in between strings To get cleanest data but what are some of your testing procedures?
 
kerryman71 said:
Got home from work this morning to find these 55 grain babies sitting in the mailbox. Poor things were in there overnight. I have all the reloading components for .223, just have to look into some things for case prep. View attachment 386629
Click to expand...

Wow Some would call that bullet abuse be careful who you admit things like this to, especially reloaders we take the well-being of our projectiles VERY serious!
 
Mudflap621 said:
Wow Some would call that bullet abuse be careful who you admit things like this to, especially reloaders we take the well-being of our projectiles VERY serious!
Click to expand...
Well, at least they were secure as it's a locked mailbox. The beauty is the mailman is a huge liberal, always going on about Trump, etc. He'll be delivering another 6K 124 grain 9mm FMJ soon 😁.
 
i finally loaded my first 15 rounds of 7.62x39...ever. i've been reloading since before there was a dillon precision, going on 45+ years, and i still get giddy like the day i popped out my first 50 rounds of 38 special back in the day when i venture into something new. my plan is to eventually pound out range ammo for myself and hold onto my factory stuff for the time being. its been working well for 5.56 for several years so lets see... without further ado....the children!

x39#1.jpg
 
@headednorth not a matter of cost but availability right now made me do it.. obviously start up has a bit of cost, dies, shell holder...i had to buy boxer primed brass. brass sucked cause there's no boxer range trash so it had to be bought. i got a hundred locally to get me by until the starline order gets processed. the cost will eventually slowly drop as i continue reloading then it's just a matter of my time. it will beat hugging my computer trying to find factory ammo. i brought in another case from target sports last week and it was almost 75 bucks more from the week prior, so i expect now that the initial cost is out of the way, reloading cost will diminish as well.
 
greencobra said:
@headednorth not a matter of cost but availability right now made me do it.. obviously start up has a bit of cost, dies, shell holder...i had to buy boxer primed brass. brass sucked cause there's no boxer range trash so it had to be bought. i got a hundred locally to get me by until the starline order gets processed. the cost will eventually slowly drop as i continue reloading then it's just a matter of my time. it will beat hugging my computer trying to find factory ammo. i brought in another case from target sports last week and it was almost 75 bucks more from the week prior, so i expect now that the initial cost is out of the way, reloading cost will diminish as well.
Click to expand...
I was just curious. Not a huge x39 shooter but I kinda vaguely know that reloading it can be a bit of a pita due to a lack of brass lying around and oddball bullet diameter. Also am not in tune with price history of factory x39 so I was just wondering if it had gotten to the point where its worth while to load it.
 
What is the best price you're seeing these days for x39mm?
Ammo*seek shows 29.9¢ per round for a 20 round box, 33.9¢ per round in a 1000 round purchase. Shipping not included, I suppose.
These days you'll be hard pressed to find the typical 123ish grain FMJ bullet for the x39 for less than 17¢, primer ~3¢, 25g of powder ~10¢, brass ???...
...so, you're at 30¢ w/o figuring your brass cost.
Again, most of us reload the 7.62x39mm because we can, want to, or simply want new toppings to go with it.
 

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headednorth said:
Is factory x39 more expensive than reloads now? Just curious
Click to expand...
factory boxer brass cased stuff is a bit pricy.
X39 is not something that lends itself to cheap bulk loading. Unless you pick up bulk wolf/ppu bullets when they show thier face every 10 years or so. The Old wideners had good deals on .310" 123 gn bullets once in while.
 
Mudflap621 said:
No chrono yet but it’s in the works another reason starting low. I’ve been hinting to my father he should buy one since he’s the one that persuaded me to load rifle for him lol.
I’m was thinking we were going to try let the barrel cool as much as possible in between strings To get cleanest data but what are some of your testing procedures?
Click to expand...
i would set up a aiming point for each load.
Shoot a fouling shot into the berm.
then take your test loads
shot one of each at its dedicted target/aim point.
go through this cycle until all 5 shots are used up.
This will spread out any heat effects you might have on the barrel.
My last go at testing i waiting 1 waited about 35 secounds between shots since thats about what i do in cmp/nra matches.
 
So my Tikka and rings showed up today and the rings are wrong [banghead] so instead of working on mounting the scope and boresighting i think ill try to make some more 308 to test out. 100 hornady 168gr hpbt and die lock rings showed up today too so time to start cookin some up.
 
76Too said:
Nice looking rifle! I've never even heard of one and just had to look it up.

But yes...EAAAASE into rifle at first. Then look at 'ladder testing' once you're comfortable. I'm just getting into it myself for my bolt guns, but it's saving me a LOT of time/frustration/wear and tear on brass/rifle barrel.

I still think you'll find 44gr to be sufficient, but you may have a little wiggle room to go up from there if need be to get the standard deviation where you want it.

Are you using a chronograph at all, or just shooting for accurate groups? yardage? rest/lead sled/sand bags?
Click to expand...

Yeah the Christensen is nice, way outa my price range though. He laughed when i told him hes gonna be pissed when my Tikka at a 1/3 the price is gonna shoot better groups. [rofl2]
 

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