38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Makes sense. Man now I want to load wadcutters. I got away from them when I started shooting my 1873 a lot more. It doesn’t like wadcutters like my Marlin 1894 does.
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What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
Just finished 50 each 38 specials in 357 cases with 4 grains unique and the star brand 147 grain hbwc. Will toss 20 downrange later today to be sure I can replicate the test batch from last weekend. If those 20 perform like the test I'll save the remaining 30 for the first week of bullseye league.
Then I pumped out 100 45acp with berry 230 grain round nose and 6.3 grains cfe pistol.
The new rcbs is working better for me now. Figured out how to angle the spent primer cup so the old ones don't fall into the ram. It is faster than the Lee. And with 6 hoke turret I didn't even have to take the time to set up dies. I keep the turret set up woth the 38 wadcutter dies in 3 holes and my 45acp in the other 3. Just had to change the primers in the tube and the powder and go.
Then I pumped out 100 45acp with berry 230 grain round nose and 6.3 grains cfe pistol.
The new rcbs is working better for me now. Figured out how to angle the spent primer cup so the old ones don't fall into the ram. It is faster than the Lee. And with 6 hoke turret I didn't even have to take the time to set up dies. I keep the turret set up woth the 38 wadcutter dies in 3 holes and my 45acp in the other 3. Just had to change the primers in the tube and the powder and go.
nstassel
NES Member
Most accuracy problems are caused by the loose nut behind the trigger.I was as surprised as anybody.
At one time, I was thinking of sending it back to S&W because it didn't seem to shoot well. Turns out I just didn't know how to pull the trigger.
The range pack of ammo I had to buy to keep shooting on Friday performed well.
Don't recall the brand but those were crimped so tight there was zero case rim above the surface of the jacket.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Jacketed does better with over crimp. It doesn’t need as much surface area to grip the rifling. Copper being harder holds the rifling better.
I hate seeing over crimp in factory ammo.
Today's test batch and taking my time.....nra slow fire stage provides more than enough time to rest between shots. Not too bad for a total amateur. Id like to improve that over the season obviously. Also....I'm not exactly using the best designed gun for bullseye shooting lol. My magnum reloads give me a tighter group but.....not sure the other shooters will be ok with me using that loud of a load for league
1974 blackhawk 357. I'm actually in love with the gun. The grips have some nice dark lines and the frame bluing has the purple tint that's cool. I do carry it on my hip when hunting in nh from time to time.....if a yote shows itself I'll be taking a poke with it. Nothing wrong with a single action for woods carry.
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Thats outstanding at 50 feet in a snubby. I've never had good accuracy with titegroup powder.....though I do use it alot. In 45acp under a cast 200 grain swc they do great for plate smacking at 25 feet for steel plate matches. I use it alot in loads just for that. It meters well and makes the process at the press very fast and cheep.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Some 9 and some 45-70
deerdad
NES Member
1000 of each waiting for me to start. Thank you for the brass link.
Nice! My box was split open on the side unfortunately. I don't think I lost any brass though. But everyone sorting and delivering the mail knew what was inside....
Now they can search the FRB and find out what your shoot it with.
Was having kind of an off day today with the revolver, managed to get only two of five rounds of 357 on an enormous full size torso steel plate at 100 yards, sending the others right into the berm. I was like, oh it's going to be like that huh? Went over to an actual handgun range with the remainder of my batch of ammo so my performance wasn't so demoralizing. Those 170 grain 1200fps rounds sure swing the dueling tree plates side to side alright.
While picking up, noticed kind of a lot of lead sitting near the steel targets. Had an empty coffee cup in my hand, so... filled it up. Weighed it when I got home, ended up with 3 pounds 9 ounces of mostly lead, a little copper, and some sand. Not exactly planning on swinging for the fences here, but I thought I might try making a lead mallet as a way to dip my toe in the water. I have a 2 pound copper mallet which is fantastic for hitting steel things and giving a nice sharp rap but without harming them.
While picking up, noticed kind of a lot of lead sitting near the steel targets. Had an empty coffee cup in my hand, so... filled it up. Weighed it when I got home, ended up with 3 pounds 9 ounces of mostly lead, a little copper, and some sand. Not exactly planning on swinging for the fences here, but I thought I might try making a lead mallet as a way to dip my toe in the water. I have a 2 pound copper mallet which is fantastic for hitting steel things and giving a nice sharp rap but without harming them.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
You gotta start somewhere.
At my last range (before I was secure in my lead stash) I used to pick a little lead at the end of the night of shooting. I could quickly grab as much lead as a shot that night.
Lots of lead to be found around plates and even paper targets.
Watch from the side when someone is shooting paper targets you will see where most shots impact after going through the backer. You might be surprised at where they all seem to end up.
I modified a old clam rake to pick up lead scraps from the sand.
That was the early days of lead collecting. The trap range is a good source of lead also.
Skim the surface and sift out the shot. Not the cleanest sources if lead but free.
Should have collected lead wheel weights when I was working as a tech at a dealer in the early 2000s. We used to just give the buckets of old wheel weights away.
Lead WW are still out there, no where near as plentiful.
I am installing more steel than anything. Only thing getting lead is old steel rims.
It takes me months to get a 1 gallon bucket 3/4 full of lead WW at the shop
I got introduced to Norma brass last night.
I decided to de cap some 9mm range brass I had tumbled last weekend and the very first case popped the pin up in my Lee universal decapper. I checked and saw a single flash hole so I just figured the pin must be loose. Reset it and carried on. A few cases later the pin stayed in but I really had to lean on the handle. I checked the head stamp and it said Norma. I continued to decap about 150 cases but about 1 in 12 would go hard, or worse pop the pin --- all Norma. I gave up for the night and tried again tonight. The 2nd Norma case bent my pin. Take with a grain of salt the claims on other forums that the Lee universal will punch right thru this brass. I am just going to set them aside for now, but if anyone knows of a smaller after-market pin for the Lee, please let me know. Thanks
I decided to de cap some 9mm range brass I had tumbled last weekend and the very first case popped the pin up in my Lee universal decapper. I checked and saw a single flash hole so I just figured the pin must be loose. Reset it and carried on. A few cases later the pin stayed in but I really had to lean on the handle. I checked the head stamp and it said Norma. I continued to decap about 150 cases but about 1 in 12 would go hard, or worse pop the pin --- all Norma. I gave up for the night and tried again tonight. The 2nd Norma case bent my pin. Take with a grain of salt the claims on other forums that the Lee universal will punch right thru this brass. I am just going to set them aside for now, but if anyone knows of a smaller after-market pin for the Lee, please let me know. Thanks
Lee makes an undersized decapping pin:I got introduced to Norma brass last night.
I have no personal experience with it, so don't know how it holds up under regular usage. Just happened to hear about it the other day
I don't know how I missed that---- Thank You!Lee makes an undersized decapping pin:
I have no personal experience with it, so don't know how it holds up under regular usage. Just happened to hear about it the other day
gerrycaruso
NES Member
Loaded a few rounds to try in the Marlin 357 magnum carbine. A 158 grain FB XTP and 14.5 grains of 2400. It's not a max. load but close. The Lyman 50th goes to 14.9.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Nice stout load for sure.
40S&W, G22
Zero 180g jacketed flat point - 1.125"
6.4 grains Power Pistol
CCI 500
Federal once fired brass
dead Trijicon irons
20 rounds at 100 yards, standing unsupported. Stopped every 5 rounds to look through a scope to see where they were going.
Zero 180g jacketed flat point - 1.125"
6.4 grains Power Pistol
CCI 500
Federal once fired brass
dead Trijicon irons
20 rounds at 100 yards, standing unsupported. Stopped every 5 rounds to look through a scope to see where they were going.
BarnBuilder
NES Member
Tumbled, Deprime, Resize using RCBS (small base die) 500 .223 mixed headstamp I've got 16lbs Shooters World Tac Rifle being delivered this week.
I've worked up a load previously to replicate 5.56 SS109 load
Once fired LC Brass
62 Gr FMJ
25.2 Gr Tac Rifle
CCI #41
Col. 2.26
Avg Fps 3030 (16" Barrel) no pressure signs
I've worked up a load previously to replicate 5.56 SS109 load
Once fired LC Brass
62 Gr FMJ
25.2 Gr Tac Rifle
CCI #41
Col. 2.26
Avg Fps 3030 (16" Barrel) no pressure signs
357 S&W 586 6"
Sierra 180g jacketed flat point #8370 1.565"
12.2g 2400
CCI 550
Geco brass
10 rounds at 100 yards, standing unsupported
Chrono said 1230, 1136, 1187, 1148, 1119, 1088, 1098, 1092, 1108 and it missed one. Avg 1134, SD 48, ES 142. I forgot to put a dry patch through the barrel before heading to the range and I store it oiled, so that may be why the first one was so fast.
I sent the first three right into the dirt because I forgot how far up to hold. The next few I put on it single action, so I got brave and the last four I went double action and only missed one of those.
It was kind of chilly with gusting winds and I'll have a list of excuses for any other poor marksmanship as soon as I finish my coffee.
Speeds were higher than I anticipated based on Lyman 50th. They were using Federal cases, same primer, Hornady 180g XTP loaded 0.020" longer, but with a 4" barrel.
Sierra 180g jacketed flat point #8370 1.565"
12.2g 2400
CCI 550
Geco brass
10 rounds at 100 yards, standing unsupported
Chrono said 1230, 1136, 1187, 1148, 1119, 1088, 1098, 1092, 1108 and it missed one. Avg 1134, SD 48, ES 142. I forgot to put a dry patch through the barrel before heading to the range and I store it oiled, so that may be why the first one was so fast.
I sent the first three right into the dirt because I forgot how far up to hold. The next few I put on it single action, so I got brave and the last four I went double action and only missed one of those.
It was kind of chilly with gusting winds and I'll have a list of excuses for any other poor marksmanship as soon as I finish my coffee.
Speeds were higher than I anticipated based on Lyman 50th. They were using Federal cases, same primer, Hornady 180g XTP loaded 0.020" longer, but with a 4" barrel.
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Knob Creek
NES Member
Taking a deep dive into .357 Sig. First running them through a 10mm/40 S&W resizing die. Then the .357 Sig die. Trying Power Pistol and No:9 powders with a 125gr bullet. So far the No:9 shows most promise.
Why the 40 die first?
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Is it worth it or can you convert 40 brass to 357 sig?
Knob Creek
NES Member
.40 S&W is too short. You could convert 10mm and trim but not worth it. By running it thru the 10MM sizer you skip having to lube the cases if you go directly to the .357 Sig Sizer.
