What did you do in the reloading room recently?

38ExtraSpecial said:
I love my 454-200 but if I did it again I would go 452374 with hollow points.
The 359125 is awesome especially with tight throated guns. It has a slight bore ride section that helps in chambering.
I don’t know much about his .40 moulds but the truncated cone looks very nice. I’ve been eyeing one for 9mm.
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There are so many different options kind of nice
 
Finished loading 357M a while ago. Started this month on 38SP. I've loaded about 1500 so far. Another 1700 to go. Just doing a couple hundred at a sitting. I guess after that I'll load about 1800 45C's. Then I'm going to have to shoot more to load more, because I'll be out of brass. I'm going to have to think about exactly where I want to put an ammo crate for 1800 loaded 45C rounds using my 300 grain bullets. Wherever that crate sits is likely where it's going to stay for a long while.
 
NH Phantom said:
Thanks. I may pick your brain for some advice
I may sell the mark 7 drive. I just haven’t used it
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i was always curious about motorized setups - how well does it handle priming? as when i run it by hand, it still has a lot of hiccups on a used brass, sometime primer does not want to go, some are really tight, some go in sideways if you go too fast - do you prime it all on this motorized rig, or you prime brass separately?

ps. i should actually start reading what people post, as you just wrote above - you did NOT use it. :) sorry.
 
Working on a mild load for the 03. I guess it will be a cast bullet since results with plated were dismal. The group looked more like a buckshot pattern. I'm guessing that velocity that's low for a 30/06, is still too high for a plated bullet. I'm trying a couple of gas check bullets with 2400, sr4759, aa5744 and imr4227.
 
gerrycaruso said:
Working on a mild load for the 03. I guess it will be a cast bullet since results with plated were dismal. The group looked more like a buckshot pattern. I'm guessing that velocity that's low for a 30/06, is still too high for a plated bullet. I'm trying a couple of gas check bullets with 2400, sr4759, aa5744 and imr4227.
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Trailboss if you have any! I made some up years ago for my grandfather (RIP) to shoot in my 03A3. He couldn’t believe he was shooting 30-06. I run coated gas checked 170 gr silhouette (round nose flat tip) bullets. Accuracy was decent

Edit: Trailboss if you want like 22 magnum recoil 😆
Would be less than “mild”
 
Skeeter said:
Thanks. I love loading the gun club hulls. They have a long reload life and with the newer cheddite primers (pink & blue box not the old yellow box) I don’t have to worry about stretching the primer pocket.
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I can tell you Fiocchi hulls don’t care for the new primers. When seating the wads I can feel the primers pushing out a small amount. Most likely more of an issue that I’m using a Lee Load All.
 
NH Phantom said:
Yes I prime with the mark 7. I’ve never had an issue. I’ve only run about 500 rounds of 9 mm through it
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If you are loading 10k plus in a batch, the autodrive will be a benefit to your body slinging that handle. My 650 does almost all of my cailbers and I did not automate it, 2/3k per catridge batch. My 1050 I did the ammo bot before Dillon killed them off. It was great for 9, 45, 556, now with primer prices, not worth my time for 9. I'll get it running again for 556, only because I have it. I wouldn't do the 1050 or automation again on a Dillon. I would go full Apex if at all.
 
Blacky440 said:
Sent (100) 30-06 and (200) 223 through the tumbler today, set it all out to dry. I’ve been looking at food dehydrators to dry cases better, anyone have any recommendations? Or better ways to dry brass?
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I keep it simple. After rinsing and shaking out pins, I dump the brass onto a large heavy beach towel on my floor. Spread it out by hand a but to free up any pins and water. Then I use a blower (the kind for drying up water spills etc) , it's the blue circular kind from h.despot. runnit on low for an hour or two blowing over cases. I spread them around again if needed but it does great. Very little energy used, no heat. I may set it up on a folding 6' table will save my back.
 
ruebarb said:
I would go full Apex if at all.
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i never cared to even learn that, as it was outside of my interest 100% - that is the factual difference between apex10, titan and revolution there?
are they just different trims of a same chassis, or are they completely different structurally, etc?
 
Blacky440 said:
Sent (100) 30-06 and (200) 223 through the tumbler today, set it all out to dry. I’ve been looking at food dehydrators to dry cases better, anyone have any recommendations? Or better ways to dry brass?
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I just use an a Hornady case dryer that I bought in 2017 for $50 before the digital nonsense. It's basically a hair dryer and stacking trays. I don't have a food dehydrator, but anything that blows heated air over trays that can hold brass is probably going to work fine. I did learn a little trick to speed things up and avoid water spots as well, which is to empty and rinse the tumbler, wipe the inside fairly dry (no puddles), and then tumble the clean wet brass with a hand towel or two for a few minutes before transferring the bass to the case dryer. Alternatively, it would probably air dry pretty fast after that, but I have the case dryer, so I use it.
 
so, finally finished setting up 9mm caliber - total around $700 or so, for 4lbs of powder, 1500 165gr bullets, set of redding dies, 2 toolheads, printed new case plate for small pistol, printed bullet seating die and set and tested all this up.
seems to work fine. fun. no real idea why or what will i need any of that for. :)
totally pointless from the financial side of things, to think of how many cases of 9mm i could get for these $s. :)

ps. ok, there was also a caliber kit and a powder measure. so, plus that.
 
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paul73 said:
so, finally finished setting up 9mm caliber - total around $700 or so, for 4lbs of powder, 1500 165gr bullets, set of redding dies, 2 toolheads, printed new case plate for small pistol, printed bullet seating die and set and tested all this up.
seems to work fine. fun. no real idea why or what will i need any of that for. :)
totally pointless from the financial side of things, to think of how many cases of 9mm i could get for these $s. :)

ps. ok, there was also a caliber kit and a powder measure. so, plus that.
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700 bucks. What's that, about 3,000 rounds? You will shoot that in three months 😁
 
also, as i get to it - those murom rifle small primers - they refuse to operate in any of my handguns, tried glocks and CZs - gets a strike, has a bit of a indent, but, no ignition.

in the AR pistol, for what whole thing was intended, it works fine, as that trigger smacks way harder, which is good, but, that murom is NOT the same as a pistol primer, contrary to previously expressed opinions here, that rifle and pistol small primers are same.

does not work, anyway. i did not try normal CCI #450 yet, as i do not want to waste them on 9mm.
 
paul73 said:
that murom is NOT the same as a pistol primer, contrary to previously expressed opinions here, that rifle and pistol small primers are same.
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Maybe it is actually true in some narrow/specific context, like CCI SRP versus CCI SPM, but I had a similar experience with "harvested" primers. I found a few dozen extra bullets at home, and it left me with a couple dozen extra bullets and no primers for them. Rather than buy a card of primers, and then having several dozen extra primers, I raided the dud can at the range for some rounds with light primer strikes (or no primer strikes) on handgun and also some 223 rounds and disassembled them. As an aside, some of these ended up being rather loose fitting, but I only had a couple of real duds in the whole lot. Anyway, the rifle primers would usually only go off in single action in my revolvers. They were definitely harder than CCI SPMs (which I use a lot of).
 
meh said:
Maybe it is actually true in some narrow/specific context, like CCI SRP versus CCI SPM, but I had a similar experience with "harvested" primers. I found a few dozen extra bullets at home, and it left me with a couple dozen extra bullets and no primers for them. Rather than buy a card of primers, and then having several dozen extra primers, I raided the dud can at the range for some rounds with light primer strikes (or no primer strikes) on handgun and also some 223 rounds and disassembled them. As an aside, some of these ended up being rather loose fitting, but I only had a couple of real duds in the whole lot. Anyway, the rifle primers would usually only go off in single action in my revolvers. They were definitely harder than CCI SPMs (which I use a lot of).
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I just tested one #450 cci srp, it is not getting ignited by any of pistol strikes.
I guess it is normal, just was odd in the light of a previous talk that cci makes them in a same exact way from same materials.
What is peculiar- fired 9mm brass has very comparable indents on shot primers, but, well.

No biggie. So, pistol ones can then be used for rifle, but not other way around. No prob.
 

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