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Which current production revolver for carry?

Which current production revolver for carry?

  • S&W 638

  • S&W 642

  • S&W 360 PD

  • Ruger LCR 357

  • Ruger LCR 38

  • Other (Charter, Taurus, ...)


Results are only viewable after voting.
You know, I blame myself for this… How dumb am I to get sucked into a conversation where the guy asking the questions doesn’t actually want advise from people that have owned, have shot, and actually know a thing.
Yeah, this. Horse, water, drink and all that.
 
None.
G43X, P365 or similar.
Add a dot if you choose.

I have a s&w 5 shot lightweight .38 snubnose. Intended for pocket carry. It shoots fine but it’s unpleasant to shoot. It’s been re-purposed as a last ditch backup gun in camper.
 
None.
G43X, P365 or similar.
Add a dot if you choose.

I have a s&w 5 shot lightweight .38 snubnose. Intended for pocket carry. It shoots fine but it’s unpleasant to shoot. It’s been re-purposed as a last ditch backup gun in camper.
I sold my 642. My PM9 is a better pocket gun.
 
A snub revolver is a great gun to have on you to loan to a homie in case you need someone to watch your back and be extra firepower while you draw your primary autoloader.
 
Any snubbie in .357. Jack.
638. Low drag, no snag with single and double action.
I'm looking for a 642/442 myself. Just want something to toss in the pocket that won't cause my pants to fall down. I normally prefer stainless
Ruger LCR 38.
I carry a Lcr 9mm and 357 mag.
Is that the Black version of the 642?
Whenever these threads come up about the 642, I get excited.
Their semi autos are junk but I guess they still make good revolvers.
I want something for a jacket pocket because no Glock is that small.
This thread started out pretty strong with good answers. See above, from first dozen or so posts.


Then, the naysayer crowd showed up:
Revolvers are not the best
That’s because lightweight revolvers suck.
If you want a 642, buy one. I will tell you now that it will need a trigger job. Even after a trigger job it will be very hard to shoot well. It will also be uncomfortable to shoot unless you put larger grips on it.
A snub revolver is a great gun to have on you to loan to a homie in case you need someone to watch your back and be extra firepower while you draw your primary autoloader.
There are folks who can shoot a snub nose accurately. You aren’t one of those folks.
Ha ha. I'll outshoot you with one, and I don't even own one yet. Sure, shot a 36 a few times. One handed, depending on shoulder that day. What a hoot you are.

If you want a 642, buy one. I will tell you now that it will need a trigger job. Even after a trigger job it will be very hard to shoot well. It will also be uncomfortable to shoot unless you put larger grips on it.
You know, I blame myself for this
You should.

No love for the Chiappa Rhino chrome show piece in tree fidy seven?

View attachment 742031


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How do these match up with the criteria on the first post (light weight, simple to use, compact to carry, and low maintenance)? I left out competitive price, but that's OK.

(This thread is not about competition or target or weekly range trip guns.)
 
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Ha ha. I'll outshoot you with one, and I don't even own one yet. One handed, depending on shoulder that day. What a hoot you are.
There you go misreading what I wrote once again. I said some people are good at shooting snubbies accurately. I did not say or imply that that I shoot them accurately. I don’t. I didn’t even when I could see the crappy sights on a 642. Now that I have old eyes a 642 is useless for me without a laser grip.

You won’t be able to pick up a 642 and be accurate with it out of the box either, even if you are more accurate than me. The guys who are accurate with snubbies spend a lot of time practicing with them. After 50 rounds of .38 through a 642 in one range session, you will be done for the day unless you’ve changed the grips. These guns suck to shoot. The trigger guard beats up your trigger finger. Boot grips will make it much easier to shoot but also much harder to conceal.

I’ve got 1,000 rounds through a 642. You’ve got 0. I stand by what I wrote. There are some guys who are very accurate with a snubbie, but you are not one of them. And you won’t want to shoot enough rounds through a 642 to become one.

I’m giving you my advice based on experience with a 642, SP101, and 3” Model 60. You choose not to accept my advice because it doesn’t match your fantasy.
 
Then, the naysayer crowd showed up:
I'm not a naysayer. I own a 642 and a SP101 2.25 inch in .38. Love both and carry on occasion. I just can't shoot the 642 accurately and quickly dump the cylinder with decent groups past 10-15 feet for shit compared with my typical carry a P30SK milled with a Holosun dot on it. Shooting that with the optic feels like COD cheating/pay to win.

Youtube gun grandpa can still out shoot any youngins.


View: https://youtu.be/oECcf0-oCF8?t=253
 
There you go misreading what I wrote once again. I said some people are good at shooting snubbies accurately. I did not say or imply that that I shoot them accurately. I don’t. I didn’t even when I could see the crappy sights on a 642. Now that I have old eyes a 642 is useless for me without a laser grip.

You won’t be able to pick up a 642 and be accurate with it out of the box either, even if you are more accurate than me. The guys who are accurate with snubbies spend a lot of time practicing with them. After 50 rounds of .38 through a 642 in one range session, you will be done for the day unless you’ve changed the grips. These guns suck to shoot. The trigger guard beats up your trigger finger. Boot grips will make it much easier to shoot but also much harder to conceal.

I’ve got 1,000 rounds through a 642. You’ve got 0. I stand by what I wrote. There are some guys who are very accurate with a snubbie, but you are not one of them. And you won’t want to shoot enough rounds through a 642 to become one.

I’m giving you my advice based on experience with a 642, SP101, and 3” Model 60. You choose not to accept my advice because it doesn’t match your fantasy.
Yeah, when I skim through the NES stuff, I sometimes miss stuff. I've shot the older all steel model 36. While not fun, it is not impossible. I'm not looking for a "fun" gun, or one to shoot competitions with. I just want something compact enough to fit a pocket, powerful enough to do what is needed, and simple/safe/reliable enough to not have to put a lot of though into.

Not sure if it was you who had the PM9, but that might be where I eventually end up.


I'm not a naysayer. I own a 642 and a SP101 2.25 inch in .38. Love both and carry on occasion. I just can't shoot the 642 accurately and quickly dump the cylinder with decent groups past 10-15 feet for shit compared with my typical carry a P30SK milled with a Holosun dot on it. Shooting that with the optic feels like COD cheating/pay to win.
A P30SK doesn't really fit in a pocket though, does it? Especially with anything "on it". Probably a nice gun, I imagine, but not what is being discussed here.


Youtube gun grandpa can still out shoot any youngins.


View: https://youtu.be/oECcf0-oCF8?t=253

Agreed. Would love to have that as a job.
 
...
How do these match up with the criteria on the first post (light weight, simple to use, compact to carry, and low maintenance)? I left out competitive price, but that's OK.

Speaking for my choice, my criteria was basically that it's wicked pretty.

It's barrel placement is closer to the line of your hand which might reduce the twisting force on your hand, but that's theory until I have one. Relatively narrow for a revolver, too.
 
There you go misreading what I wrote once again. I said some people are good at shooting snubbies accurately. I did not say or imply that that I shoot them accurately. I don’t. I didn’t even when I could see the crappy sights on a 642. Now that I have old eyes a 642 is useless for me without a laser grip.

You won’t be able to pick up a 642 and be accurate with it out of the box either, even if you are more accurate than me. The guys who are accurate with snubbies spend a lot of time practicing with them. After 50 rounds of .38 through a 642 in one range session, you will be done for the day unless you’ve changed the grips. These guns suck to shoot. The trigger guard beats up your trigger finger. Boot grips will make it much easier to shoot but also much harder to conceal.

I’ve got 1,000 rounds through a 642. You’ve got 0. I stand by what I wrote. There are some guys who are very accurate with a snubbie, but you are not one of them. And you won’t want to shoot enough rounds through a 642 to become one.

I’m giving you my advice based on experience with a 642, SP101, and 3” Model 60. You choose not to accept my advice because it doesn’t match your fantasy.
You reminded me of this story from @enbloc (RIP)
I've owned a S&W 340PD since 2003 and have not had any issues with the erosion that has been widely noted by owners. I even used it as my training gun in a combat pistol carry class back in 2005. I was the only wheel-gunner to toe the line that day. Everyone had semi-autos. (mostly SIGs, S&W and a few Berettas in 9mm, and a couple in .40 if I recall) My Instructor had a SIG P7, and said I had better keep up with my 5-shot. Challenge accepted, and having 8 HKS speed loaders helped me do just that. [wink] The instructor had me positioned as the last shooter on the right in case there were any issues. (which there was when the ejector rod loosened and hung me up)

The funniest thing was when we fired that first volley down the line and 9mm after 9mm (with an occasional .40 S&W) fired went "pew, pew, pew, PEW, pew "
and I fired my .357 snub that went "BOOM!". every head turned to the right and stared. (keep in mind that in 2005, nearly everyone had switched over to semi-autos, and wheelguns were relegated to "Old Men" and retired Cops)

I shot 400 rounds through it that day, half of it being 158gn, full-house .357mag carry ammo. I went home with a bleeding right hand, missing quite a bit of the webbing skin between my thumb and index finger, and had to keep it in ice for a couple of hours.

The only issue with the gun (and not my pussy hand) was that the hand-ejector rod would keep unscrewing after about 50 rounds of .357. The first time it happened the ejector rod had un-spun itself out so far I could not release the cylinder. After rolling it back with my thumb a few times I was able to open the cylinder and spin it back tight. Now I use a small amount of red loctite and it stays in place.

On the good side, I am lo longer recoil-sensitive having killed off the nerves in my right hand... [rofl2]

Great gun, by the way.


Speaking for my choice, my criteria was basically that it's wicked pretty.

It's barrel placement is closer to the line of your hand which might reduce the twisting force on your hand, but that's theory until I have one. Relatively narrow for a revolver, too.
The reviews I've read seem to confirm this theory. I want to try one. I kind of want to own one, just for the curiosity. It's not in the budget yet.
 
enbloc was a better man than me. I wouldn’t have lasted more than a cylinder or two of .357 through that gun.

I have this little double barreled derringer. It shoots 357 magnum. Even little minininjer was able to handle it.

In order to fire the gun, you must become the gun. When you are one with it, you are one with everything. This is the way.
 
Ironically I have owned all the options on this poll .

My personal preference resulted in keeping the .357 LCR [not the X version, the hammerless version]:
-The LCR has the best combination of trigger stroke/smoothness/weight for fast and accurate follow-up shots.
-The LCR trigger can also be staged for "precision" shots should you want to do that [hence not needing the X].
-The LCR sights are fantastic if you get a newer version with the white stripe on the front ramp.

From a carry standpoint.

I run .38 +P's in it. The weight of the magnum version of the LCR over the .38 special version makes it very manageable to shoot. So if you take a defensive class with it you can easily get through 250 rounds.

You can find multiple different types of holsters for the LCR to suit your fancy.

And speed loaders that actually work well at getting the rounds into the chambers and not on the ground:

The smiths are lighter weight, but are a SoB to shoot. Same can be said for the .38 version of the LCR.

You also wont find as good of a trigger in new production smiths unfortunately [unless you start messing with springs]. The LCR trigger pull is 8 to 10 lbs from the factory. Smiths are usually 14lb or more.

Hope this helps you make a choice. Or not.
 
But when you use it in a self defense scenario and the DA finds out you 'customized your gun with a hair trigger' you fina get buried.
Meh. I think the chances of that happening with a reasonable carry trigger job are slim. Would I use my CZ Shadow 2 with a 6 lb DA trigger and a 2 lb SA trigger for defensive purposes? No. That is a competition toy with a very light trigger.

Would I use my S&W Model 19 with a Greg Derr trigger job for defensive purposes? Yes.

For a defensive revolver, there can be an argument made to convert it to DAO, but that is true even without performing a trigger job.
 
Dry fire the hell out of a J-frame Smith and the trigger gets better. Besides, when the SHTF you won't notice the trigger weight.
 
Still waiting on the unicorn carry gun, a DA/SA with a factory 10 lb long double and then a 3 lb single with a short sweet crisp reset.
 
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